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  1. #1
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    Krampus builds - post em here!

    i couldn't see a post dedicated in the Surly forum for Krampus builds so i hope people post their specs here.

    Why? Well i for one want to build one but have a few questions, particularly about crankset choices. never run a 1 x before and i think i'm gonna miss that 22t ring, i see complete it has 34t Zee crankset with a 34 at the back. Not sure that's gonna cut it where i ride so looking for options?
    Will any double fit? I've read that Surly suggest taking your 2 smallest cogs off the cassette and then space them at the big end.

    So this turns your 10 speed into an 8? do i still use a 10 speed shifter or will a 9 speed work ok?

    Will the limit screws on the rear mech come in enough to keep the chain out of "no mans land?"

    If you've built one, love to hear about it.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    Will any double fit? I've read that Surly suggest taking your 2 smallest cogs off the cassette and then space them at the big end.

    So this turns your 10 speed into an 8? do i still use a 10 speed shifter or will a 9 speed work ok?

    Will the limit screws on the rear mech come in enough to keep the chain out of "no mans land?"

    If you've built one, love to hear about it.
    Wherein We Attempt to Answer Your Krampus Questions

    Yes, it would turn your 10 speed cassette into an "8" but it will still have 10 speed "spacing" so you'll still use the 10 speed shifter.

    You could screw your limit screw in as far as you can, and see how far inboard you can get it to limit. If it limits enough to not get to your two largest cogs (before you modify it) you'll have your answer. (I don't have a ten speed cassette in front of me right now, otherwise I'd do it for you.)

  3. #3
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    thanks for that, good call, i have a 10 speed on my Anthem i'll give it a go.

    are guys just using standard 29er tubes or the ones Surly recomend?

    I'm leaning more to a 1 x set up to start with, i do like the simplicity of it and i can always change it down the track.

  4. #4
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    my krampus

    Krampus builds - post em here!-dscn4847.jpgKrampus builds - post em here!-dscn4851.jpgKrampus builds - post em here!-dscn4850.jpgKrampus builds - post em here!-dscn4849.jpgKrampus builds - post em here!-dscn4848.jpg

    I'm running just a regular shimano deore triple crankset. 32t middle ring. I would definitely want a smaller ring for big hills(i.e., steep climbs longer than a half mile), but I think a double crankset will have the smaller ring a bit too close to the tire. I think the mr whirly crank with offset rings will be the best option for something smaller than 32.

    For the climbs that I usually ride, which are never longer than a 1/4 mile, I just stand up and make it happen. I get to the top faster, but also with more effort!

    I have the 27tpi tires and I had trouble going tubeless using split tube. I ended up using a low-density foam under the split tube to help push the bead towards the sidewall of the rim and it worked well. The foam is about 1" wide and .5" thick and is wrapped all the way around the rim.

    I think I might drop one gear from my 10sp cassette, as the 32t(front), 36t(rear) combination is a bit noisy from cross-chaining, and that's become and extremely important gear combo! I haven't checked yet if losing 2 cogs will allow me to run the full triple, but I'm thinking it might be worth it, especially if I can find a 13 or 14t to put on the bottom to interface with the cassette lockring.

    I built the wheels 3 cross and cross-laced (left hub flange goes to right side of rim and vice versa) which was very easy and so far not at all problematic. It feels like the wheels are much stiffer than 36h p35's at similar tension. Could just be the big rims I'm feeling.

    I also went with a small, desptite always riding medium bikes. I chose based on ett, as I'm not convinced by the short stem approach. I prefer the shorter wheelbase and am extremely happy with how the bike climbs.

  5. #5
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    hi there
    thanks for the info! fyi i checked my 10 speed and the adjuster screw easily locked out the two biggest cogs so i think i'll be going with a double crank up front. further down the line i may opt for the new Surly OD crankset to get the full 2 x 10.

    Can i ask how tall you are? I'm also a medium rider normally but i got a small Pugs for a good price and apart from putting a 100mm stem and longer seat post, it's been great.
    So, i will be going for the small definately based on the ETT numbers.

    What size stem are you using? what height are you and inseem?

    cheers
    Steve

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    hi there
    thanks for the info! fyi i checked my 10 speed and the adjuster screw easily locked out the two biggest cogs so i think i'll be going with a double crank up front. further down the line i may opt for the new Surly OD crankset to get the full 2 x 10.

    Can i ask how tall you are? I'm also a medium rider normally but i got a small Pugs for a good price and apart from putting a 100mm stem and longer seat post, it's been great.
    So, i will be going for the small definately based on the ETT numbers.

    What size stem are you using? what height are you and inseem?

    cheers
    Steve
    I'm 5'8" with legs on the longish side 31.5" or so inseam. not sure about arm length relative to others. I'm running a 105mm stem I guess I'm not buying into the long tt and short stem idea. I'd rather have the front wheel more underneath me so I can put lots of weight on it. The frame comes with tugnuts which move the wheel back in the dropouts 1/4" to give your f der more room. I am not running them and really like the short chainstays for climbing. Not wheelies, just great traction, so longer will only makes climbing harder. on twistie turnie descents I put lots of weight on the front wheel to make it stick in the turns and a long tt would work against me.

  7. #7
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    If you're building your wheels from scratch I'd highly suggest you look at using an SS hub and putting as many cogs as you can on it depending on your speed selection - 9 or 10spd. Will build you a dishless rear wheel and keep the chain far away from the huge tyre. Check out the 29er forum for a couple threads on this, but just an FYI, without any machining I can fit 6 9spd cogs onto a Hope SS/Trials hub, if I do some machining to the carrier on an XT cassette I can run 7 cogs easily and 8 if I really wanted to with some "fiddling", so for 10spd you could easily run 7 without any work and 8 with some work.
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    If you're building your wheels from scratch I'd highly suggest you look at using an SS hub and putting as many cogs as you can on it depending on your speed selection - 9 or 10spd. Will build you a dishless rear wheel and keep the chain far away from the huge tyre. Check out the 29er forum for a couple threads on this, but just an FYI, without any machining I can fit 6 9spd cogs onto a Hope SS/Trials hub, if I do some machining to the carrier on an XT cassette I can run 7 cogs easily and 8 if I really wanted to with some "fiddling", so for 10spd you could easily run 7 without any work and 8 with some work.
    Sounds interesting. I looked in the 29er forum, but didn't see anything obvious. would you mind linking to one or 2 of these articles?

  9. #9
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    6 speed cassette on SS hub....Please post your setup
    6 cogs on a SS hub -- best solution?

    Quote Originally Posted by PretendGentleman View Post
    Sounds interesting. I looked in the 29er forum, but didn't see anything obvious. would you mind linking to one or 2 of these articles?
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  10. #10
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    that is interesting thanks for that. i do have my heart (now) set on a 2 x 10 set up, i'll have to fork out for a surly mr whirly crank with the MWOD chainrings and 72mm spindle, that or the new O.D. crank whenever that comes out (if i can wait).

  11. #11
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    i have the MWOD on my Krampus, but I'm just using it as a kick shift (no derailleur). Works great.

    Krampus builds - post em here!-img_3062.jpgKrampus builds - post em here!-img_3064.jpg

  12. #12
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    well my frameset is on the way, wheels are built and will ship next week. still gathering parts but i'm afraid the hold up will be the cranks.
    xt shadow rear mech
    xt 2 x 10 direct mount front mech

    still deciding on either slx shifters and brakes or xt, i've had the new slx on another bike i to be honest, i can't pick the performance difference between the two, might come down to what i can get in stock at the best price at the time.

    i have the 120tpi knards and definately going to try split tube tubeless before i go to tubes.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    If you're building your wheels from scratch I'd highly suggest you look at using an SS hub and putting as many cogs as you can on it depending on your speed selection - 9 or 10spd. Will build you a dishless rear wheel and keep the chain far away from the huge tyre.
    You can use the offset holes of the RH rim to build a even tensioned rear wheel [or close to it] with a normal rear hub.

    Here is an example...

    http://www.jonesbikes.com/?p=2383&op...ress&Itemid=58
    Safe riding,

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  14. #14
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    you still get a better bracing angle with the ss hub.

    I'm very very happy with my cross-laced (and 3 cross) RH wheel. It's far stiffer than my previous wheel, a 36 hole 3 cross p35 with the same shimano hub. For someone who rides very hard and who is heavy, it's the best I've ever experienced on a 700c rim. I've ridden the wheels for about 150 miles now and highly recommend cross-laced builds.

    With a regular cassette hub you can choose regular, offset (like you vikb posted) or cross-laced. offset has more even spoke tension than regular and cross-laced has a better bracing angle than regular. ss hub can get you both, but all the ss hubs that take cassette cogs are too expensive for my buget.

  15. #15
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    2 x 10 set up on mine with regular spoked rabbit holes, no issues at all getting all 10 cogs on either ring


    Krampus 1st ride by Steve J Makin, on Flickr


    Krampus 1st ride by Steve J Makin, on Flickr

    and for info, Krampus Flickr group here

    Flickr: Surly Krampus

  16. #16
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    are you running an XT crank on that? are you getting all 10 on the rear???

  17. #17
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    yes and yes

  18. #18
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    i'm very happy to hear that but i am suprised, mainly because of Surlys insistance of having to use an offset double cranks.
    is there much tyre clearance when on the little up front and big on rear?

  19. #19
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    we measured about 5mm

  20. #20
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    i can live with that, i checked out your flickr pics, i love your ride, great build!
    my frameset arrives tomorrow (fingers crossed), wheelset etc next week, more parts are on their way.
    just need brakes and crankset and i can finish it off. i'll post some pics when i have something to show

  21. #21
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    In hind sight, I would have gone with an XL frame simply for the head tube size increase, the cockpit is a little on the low side for the flat thomson bars, easily fixed with some budnitz riser bars that should be on their way to me now.

    I went L due to the top tube length thinking XL would be too long.... doh !

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveM View Post
    In hind sight, I would have gone with an XL frame simply for the head tube size increase, the cockpit is a little on the low side for the flat thomson bars, easily fixed with some budnitz riser bars that should be on their way to me now.

    I went L due to the top tube length thinking XL would be too long.... doh !
    I'm surprised the headtube length would affect fit at all. My fork had a lot of steerer tube to allow room to adjust height.

    The sizing is definitely a bit tricky. Fortunately most people will be mostly happy with more than one size, so picking a horrible size for you isn't that likely. I'm happy with my small that I bought based on ett. the longer bike I would have gotten with the medium has several small disadvantages due to its increased size, e.g., longer wheelbase and less weight on front wheel.

  23. #23
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    headtube is about 3/4inch longer on the XL, and yes I could have left the steerer longer but dont particularly like the look that gives, its a minor point and easily fixed with riser bars...

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    i'm very happy to hear that but i am suprised, mainly because of Surlys insistance of having to use an offset double cranks.
    is there much tyre clearance when on the little up front and big on rear?
    for me, using the middle ring of a fsa triple, there is very little clearance. If its bumpy and I'm not pedaling, the chain catches a bit on the knobs, which makes noise but doesn't seem to have other deleterious effects. It's probably worse for me since I'm running the wheel all the way forward in the dropouts, while most people seem to be running the monkey nuts for a 1/4" longer cs.

  25. #25
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    is it correct info that the framesets ship with the monkey nuts included?

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    is it correct info that the framesets ship with the monkey nuts included?
    mine did

  27. #27
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    Re: Krampus builds - post em here!

    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    is it correct info that the framesets ship with the monkey nuts included?
    These and the derailleur adapter.
    CRAMBA Chairman

  28. #28
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    Here is my medium Krampus I just built up
    Profile Hubs and Cranks w/ Spline drive spider
    Sram x-0 rear derailleur
    Sram x-9 shifter
    Avid Hydraulic discs

    I got to take it out a few days ago and I am super happy with it


    IMG_2035 by tim_w_sage, on Flickr

    IMG_2039 by tim_w_sage, on Flickr

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by tswg View Post
    i have the MWOD on my Krampus, but I'm just using it as a kick shift (no derailleur). Works great.
    Can you please explain this "kick shift?" Do you just get off the bike, loosen the chain tensioner, move the chain up or down chainrings and then readjust the tensioner? What gearing are you running?

    Thanks

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    is it correct info that the framesets ship with the monkey nuts included?
    Yes and a derailleur adapter.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  31. #31
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    got mine on friday, wheels etc hopefully turn up this week, just need to the brakes ordered with next weeks pay check and i'm golden!

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by rth009 View Post
    Can you please explain this "kick shift?" Do you just get off the bike, loosen the chain tensioner, move the chain up or down chainrings and then readjust the tensioner? What gearing are you running?

    Thanks
    It's a pulley style tensioner, so when I want to shift gears I push the chain down with my toe. When I want to shift up I use a cleat in my shoes to shift up. It's not good for lots of shifting, but if you're going to ride in hi or low for a while, it works pretty good. You get pretty good at after awhile.

    I have a 19t freewheel in the back, and I can flip between 36 and 22 up front.

  33. #33
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    Good Day All, I'm looking for some sizing advise from those of you who have ridden or purchased a Krampus. I am 5' 11" with a 35" inseam and weigh 185 lbs. Large or medium size frame? Based on ETT I'm thinking medium since the bike runs so long in the top tube. I would be grateful for any feedback.
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  34. #34
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    I'm 6ft and 32" inside leg....medium krampus is a perfect fit.

    780mm crank brothers bars
    400mm crank brothers post
    Hope hubs
    Zee crank
    Slx mech and shifter 10 speed
    Nukeproof electron pedals
    Wtb saddle
    ESI chunky grips
    Gusset stem and brakes 180/160



    Larger than my Fargo wheel



    Moonlander angles



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  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by gulljammer View Post
    Good Day All, I'm looking for some sizing advise from those of you who have ridden or purchased a Krampus. I am 5' 11" with a 35" inseam and weigh 185 lbs. Large or medium size frame? Based on ETT I'm thinking medium since the bike runs so long in the top tube. I would be grateful for any feedback.
    I'm 5'11" and 33 inseam. Based on the numbers I could fit onto a Med or Lrg. The TT is really low so you'll have a ton of seatpost showing on a Medium, but you'll need to run a short stem on a Large with some medium width bars - or some swept back bars like the Jones H-bars or On One Mary bars. The Medium will have a shorter wheelbase for maneuverability and the Large will be longer which will be stable - depending if your riding is tight and twisty or wide open.

    I think both would work for you, but there are tradeoffs with either option.

    Just for another option a Pugsley frame will take Knards on Rabbit Holes and has a shorter TT with a longer ST. The steering geo isn't as slack, but I own a Pugs and it's a lot of fun to ride and the sizing might suit you better than the long and low Krampus. You can see the differences in Saltyman's Krampus & Moonlander photos above.
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  36. #36
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    OK, for the uneducated Saltman, give us a run down on the Moonlander - what rims and tyres are those? I just sat and stared at this pic with my jaw dropped, those tyres on the Moonlander look GiNormous Have you, or could you weigh the rear wheels on both of those bikes, curious what sort of weight difference there is in going semi-fat with the Knard as opposed to going full fat?

    Quote Originally Posted by saltyman View Post
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  37. #37
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    Moonlander is still on standard clownshoe 100mm rims and has the 4.8" bud and lou tires.

    No idea what the wheels weigh on either bikes, never been fussed in weight, traction without compromise is what I went for!.....they certainly grip....and turn heads, that's for sure.

    People comment on my krampus tires, saying there huge.....but when they see the fatbike they are stunned.
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  38. #38
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    Saltyman, thanks for your feedback. What size stem are you using?
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  39. #39
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    One last question Saltyman, I would be grateful if you could post the measurement from the center of the crank to the rails of your seat or top of your seat post. Many thanks.
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  40. #40
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    90mm stem working fine so far.

    Centre of crank to seat rails is 27.5" in my normal riding position.....maybe lower it an inch or two less if I'm offroading.

    First look.....I thought I had messed up going smaller than the moonlander.....but it's awesome.





    I know the odd time I'm rock crawling, the moonlander can be a handful and not as nimble as I'd like, but 95% of the time it's perfect.....so going to a taller wheel I wanted more crotch space as the krampus is my play bike.
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  41. #41
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    Thanks man, guess I haven't kept up to date on the Fat Tyre stuff, didn't know they had out a 4.8" wide tyre - that's just insane, must be a boiat load of fun rock crawlin that thing
    Quote Originally Posted by saltyman View Post
    Moonlander is still on standard clownshoe 100mm rims and has the 4.8" bud and lou tires.

    No idea what the wheels weigh on either bikes, never been fussed in weight, traction without compromise is what I went for!.....they certainly grip....and turn heads, that's for sure.

    People comment on my krampus tires, saying there huge.....but when they see the fatbike they are stunned.
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  42. #42
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    Thanks Saltyman! Medium is for me.

    Next Krampus question, would anyone know if Sram XX1 would work (as far as chainline goes)?
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  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by gulljammer View Post
    Thanks Saltyman! Medium is for me.

    Next Krampus question, would anyone know if Sram XX1 would work (as far as chainline goes)?
    My guess is that the chainring will end up being a bit too far outboard for optimal chainline in climbing gears. I'm pretty sure xx1 will work, but you might end up playing with chainring spacing to get it there. If the bb is like what I'm familiar with (requiring a single 2.5mm spacer under the bearing cup), just running the spacer on the non-drive side might be enough to make it work just right.

    I just put a mwod on mine and even with the spacer on the non-drive side the crankset is too far outboard. Even the little chainring to the big cog is more cross-chained that I would have liked. about 7mm between chain and tire at closest.

  44. #44
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    There is at least one Krampus with XX1 on it and it's working just fine so far (from what I've seen online. It's also got a Fox Float 29 (or whatever fork) that seems to be working well, too.

  45. #45
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    Large, bout 28 pounds.


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    I'm running XX1 and it works fine. Gotta admit the chain line doesn't look ideal but it's never protested in the least. Maybe their 1x specific chain is designed to be a bit more tolerant.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by fleanutz View Post
    Large, bout 28 pounds.


    Looks so sick, like a SRT8 Grand Cherokee (fast SUV)

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveM View Post
    we measured about 5mm
    can i pick your brain a bit about this? i got my xt cranks last week and i'm seeing that i'm going to have some rubbing issued and possibly going to have to drop one of my smaller cogs to make it fit.
    what chain are you using?
    are you using the standard XT bb?
    how many spacers are you using on the BB and where? Just the single on the drive side?

  49. #49
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    all standard XT gear inc bb and chain, dunno about the spacers, I'll take a look next time I get the bike out to ride

    I still have the monkey nuts in place, maybe thats helping ?, I was surprised and happy when I saw the build that there was no issues with chain rub having gone through this with my Mukluk

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by SteveJfromtheSwitch View Post
    i'm very happy to hear that but i am suprised, mainly because of Surlys insistance of having to use an offset double cranks.
    is there much tyre clearance when on the little up front and big on rear?
    I just got offset double cranks (mwod 36-22) and they are definitely too far outboard for optimal chainline. When trying to run 36-36, the chain pulls right off the front chainring due to too much angle.
    The cranks include spacers (though not as many combinations for the flexibility I would like) that allow you to move the chainrings further inwards without moving the cranks. Also will have to cut some of the included ~15mm chainring bolts down to more like 10mm

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