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  1. #1
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    Frame Saver Application

    Hello. I'm about to spray JP Weigle Frame Saver in my frame and want to ask if there are any "do's and don'ts" other than the directions on the "spray can". I didn't get any other instructions with the can so if anyones got any tips or whatever please let me know. I saw a post where someone said dont spray the seat tube. I'm planning on spraying the whole inside of the frame, seat tube and all. THANX.

  2. #2
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    Most of all, if you drop it on the exterior of the frame clean it PRONTO. That thing will be a pain in the @ss to clean once dry. Also, try to not put too much of it on the seat tube. as it changes the effective ID of the tube. Some argue against it's use in the seat tube, but I think it is possible, if only a thin film is applied.

    I've treated my new Ogre frameset two days ago with a little more traditional solution, boiled linseed oil. It takes a while to dry, can be quite messy to apply but the thing is really effective protecting steel. I use it on all my tools, including a machete thats often used in rain, 100% success.

  3. #3
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    Thanx a bunch man.

  4. #4
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    I use, http://www.rustcheck.ca/index.php?pa...art&Itemid=321, in all of my Surly/steel frame bikes. Use liberally, and wipe up the excess that comes through all of the drain holes. Oil based I believe.

  5. #5
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    A buddy of mine wants to know, "What if there is already internal rust that you know of because you rode through water and a little orange rust ran out of small holes in frame?"

  6. #6
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    Regular steel oxidation happens when oxygen interacts with the steel surface (and I put emphasis on the REGULAR). What frame saver, linseed oil or even regular grease do is isolate the steel from oxygen contact. So you can can apply the treatment even with the presence of some oxidation. Iron oxide oxide has a colour that spans from bright yellow to very dark brown. When present on a steel surface, those colours can be indicative of the oxidation thickness. If he sees that thin orange rust comming out of the holes, I bet that the oxidation layer is still thin enough for the treatment to be applied with success

  7. #7
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    My buddy says, "Thanks."

  8. #8
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    When I applied Frame Saver to my Karate Monkey frame and fork I plugged all holes with paper towels and only removed the one into which I was spraying. I rotated and flopped and rotated the frame after each 3 to 5 second blast of FS into a tube. This was done over a large plastic bag to catch the drips. After spraying into each tube, via the end of the tube or via the drain holes, I went back and repeated the process to ensure coverage.

    Wipe up errant FS as you go, or WD-40 makes it not too difficult to wipe off after dried. I wore latex gloves to keep the stickiness off my hands. Safety glasses are probably a good idea too, especially when spraying into the drain holes.



    I sprayed Frame Saver into my seat tube and have not experienced any interference with my seat post.

  9. #9
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    Hi,

    I've also a question.
    I've applied WD40 onto all tubes except the fork steerer tube.
    I was affraid that the headset star nut will slip once you put it in tension.

    Is I have to protect the fork steerer tube too?

  10. #10
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    Another option,,,

    An option that was directed to me by a custom frame builder and swears by it.

    Boeshield T-9 | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication
    Linux is for those who hate Microsoft, BSD is for those who love UNIX.

  11. #11
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    Does any body use 2 coats...waiting 12 hours between coats? Saw a youtube video saying to do this. Is it necessary?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fedelan View Post
    Hi,

    I've also a question.
    I've applied WD40 onto all tubes except the fork steerer tube.
    I was affraid that the headset star nut will slip once you put it in tension.

    Is I have to protect the fork steerer tube too?
    Hi Dedelan,
    not knocking you or your choice but I have serous doubts about the long or even medium term effectiveness of WD40.
    Really suggest you consider an alternative if your serious about stopping internal rust.
    I havnt used anything in mine yet but am leaning toward Ze_Zaskars suggestion of boiled linseed oil.
    Good luck with your decision making

  13. #13
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    Boeshield works very well as mentioned and typically is easier to come by than the JP Weigle stuff.
    Transition Bandit 29
    Surly Ogre
    Surly Necro Pugs w/ Lefty PBR
    Surly Big Dummy

  14. #14
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    I had a mechanic tell me I could apply Frame Saver with just removing the fork and seatpost. He said it wouldn't hurt to leave the BB installed, and since the BB is already greased, that area is already fairly safe from rust. What do you think?

  15. #15
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    It would probably be okay, I might remove the cable guide on the bottom of the BB just to let any excess have a way to drain. The most critical areas are where moisture can collect, bottom of the fork legs, chain stays, stay bridges etc. I've never had moisture in my BB when disassembling any of my bicycles and they are ridden in any and all conditions, I'm car-free. I've given a little shot of Rust Check in the drain holes in the forks legs and chain stays periodically once the bike is assembled. I ridden both my Troll and LHT threw multiple harsh winters here in Canada and neither bike has a speck of rust on it.

    Rust Check is available at most auto parts supply stores I believe.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saddle Up View Post
    It would probably be okay, I might remove the cable guide on the bottom of the BB just to let any excess have a way to drain. The most critical areas are where moisture can collect, bottom of the fork legs, chain stays, stay bridges etc. I've never had moisture in my BB when disassembling any of my bicycles and they are ridden in any and all conditions, I'm car-free. I've given a little shot of Rust Check in the drain holes in the forks legs and chain stays periodically once the bike is assembled. I ridden both my Troll and LHT threw multiple harsh winters here in Canada and neither bike has a speck of rust on it.

    Rust Check is available at most auto parts supply stores I believe.
    Thanks! I think I'll spray the chainstays and whatever I can get from the seat tube.
    "Geologic time includes now."

  17. #17
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    Be super careful. I would not want that stuff anywhere near my derailleurs or brake calipers. When I sprayed Frame Saver it got messy quick. I wanted to be thorough and the next thing it was pouring out all over the place. Me personally, well it's a bit of a bummer, butt I wouldn't do it.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodsgroovin View Post
    Be super careful. I would not want that stuff anywhere near my derailleurs or brake calipers. When I sprayed Frame Saver it got messy quick. I wanted to be thorough and the next thing it was pouring out all over the place. Me personally, well it's a bit of a bummer, butt I wouldn't do it.
    Thanks for that info. I'll have to really think about it. I don't have vent holes on my chainstays----just up on the little crossbar that connects the chainstays on top. Plastic bags for disc calipers and derailleur.....
    Or better not to do anything at all?
    "Geologic time includes now."

  19. #19
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    I taped up all of my vent holes then sprayed alittle in at a time on each section of the bike. The keys is to spray some in and then pick the bike up and twirl and swirl, flip it upside down and on its sides and just spray in alittle at a time. Then let it sit for a few hours upright on a piece of cardboard and pull the tape off. Hope that makes sense.........

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bevalhalla View Post
    I taped up all of my vent holes then sprayed alittle in at a time on each section of the bike. The keys is to spray some in and then pick the bike up and twirl and swirl, flip it upside down and on its sides and just spray in alittle at a time. Then let it sit for a few hours upright on a piece of cardboard and pull the tape off. Hope that makes sense.........
    Yep, that makes sense! I got the nod from a guy at Surly who said it was okay to do it with the bb still in place.
    "Geologic time includes now."

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