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  1. #1
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    Frame Saver Application

    Hello. I'm about to spray JP Weigle Frame Saver in my frame and want to ask if there are any "do's and don'ts" other than the directions on the "spray can". I didn't get any other instructions with the can so if anyones got any tips or whatever please let me know. I saw a post where someone said dont spray the seat tube. I'm planning on spraying the whole inside of the frame, seat tube and all. THANX.

  2. #2
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    Most of all, if you drop it on the exterior of the frame clean it PRONTO. That thing will be a pain in the @ss to clean once dry. Also, try to not put too much of it on the seat tube. as it changes the effective ID of the tube. Some argue against it's use in the seat tube, but I think it is possible, if only a thin film is applied.

    I've treated my new Ogre frameset two days ago with a little more traditional solution, boiled linseed oil. It takes a while to dry, can be quite messy to apply but the thing is really effective protecting steel. I use it on all my tools, including a machete thats often used in rain, 100% success.

  3. #3
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    Thanx a bunch man.

  4. #4
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    I use, http://www.rustcheck.ca/index.php?pa...art&Itemid=321, in all of my Surly/steel frame bikes. Use liberally, and wipe up the excess that comes through all of the drain holes. Oil based I believe.

  5. #5
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    A buddy of mine wants to know, "What if there is already internal rust that you know of because you rode through water and a little orange rust ran out of small holes in frame?"

  6. #6
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    Regular steel oxidation happens when oxygen interacts with the steel surface (and I put emphasis on the REGULAR). What frame saver, linseed oil or even regular grease do is isolate the steel from oxygen contact. So you can can apply the treatment even with the presence of some oxidation. Iron oxide oxide has a colour that spans from bright yellow to very dark brown. When present on a steel surface, those colours can be indicative of the oxidation thickness. If he sees that thin orange rust comming out of the holes, I bet that the oxidation layer is still thin enough for the treatment to be applied with success

  7. #7
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    My buddy says, "Thanks."

  8. #8
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    When I applied Frame Saver to my Karate Monkey frame and fork I plugged all holes with paper towels and only removed the one into which I was spraying. I rotated and flopped and rotated the frame after each 3 to 5 second blast of FS into a tube. This was done over a large plastic bag to catch the drips. After spraying into each tube, via the end of the tube or via the drain holes, I went back and repeated the process to ensure coverage.

    Wipe up errant FS as you go, or WD-40 makes it not too difficult to wipe off after dried. I wore latex gloves to keep the stickiness off my hands. Safety glasses are probably a good idea too, especially when spraying into the drain holes.



    I sprayed Frame Saver into my seat tube and have not experienced any interference with my seat post.

  9. #9
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    Hi,

    I've also a question.
    I've applied WD40 onto all tubes except the fork steerer tube.
    I was affraid that the headset star nut will slip once you put it in tension.

    Is I have to protect the fork steerer tube too?

  10. #10
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    Another option,,,

    An option that was directed to me by a custom frame builder and swears by it.

    Boeshield T-9® | Corrosion Protection and Waterproof Lubrication
    Linux is for those who hate Microsoft, BSD is for those who love UNIX.

  11. #11
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    Does any body use 2 coats...waiting 12 hours between coats? Saw a youtube video saying to do this. Is it necessary?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fedelan View Post
    Hi,

    I've also a question.
    I've applied WD40 onto all tubes except the fork steerer tube.
    I was affraid that the headset star nut will slip once you put it in tension.

    Is I have to protect the fork steerer tube too?
    Hi Dedelan,
    not knocking you or your choice but I have serous doubts about the long or even medium term effectiveness of WD40.
    Really suggest you consider an alternative if your serious about stopping internal rust.
    I havnt used anything in mine yet but am leaning toward Ze_Zaskars suggestion of boiled linseed oil.
    Good luck with your decision making

  13. #13
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    Boeshield works very well as mentioned and typically is easier to come by than the JP Weigle stuff.
    '15 Specialized Fatboy
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  14. #14
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    I had a mechanic tell me I could apply Frame Saver with just removing the fork and seatpost. He said it wouldn't hurt to leave the BB installed, and since the BB is already greased, that area is already fairly safe from rust. What do you think?

  15. #15
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    It would probably be okay, I might remove the cable guide on the bottom of the BB just to let any excess have a way to drain. The most critical areas are where moisture can collect, bottom of the fork legs, chain stays, stay bridges etc. I've never had moisture in my BB when disassembling any of my bicycles and they are ridden in any and all conditions, I'm car-free. I've given a little shot of Rust Check in the drain holes in the forks legs and chain stays periodically once the bike is assembled. I ridden both my Troll and LHT threw multiple harsh winters here in Canada and neither bike has a speck of rust on it.

    Rust Check is available at most auto parts supply stores I believe.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Saddle Up View Post
    It would probably be okay, I might remove the cable guide on the bottom of the BB just to let any excess have a way to drain. The most critical areas are where moisture can collect, bottom of the fork legs, chain stays, stay bridges etc. I've never had moisture in my BB when disassembling any of my bicycles and they are ridden in any and all conditions, I'm car-free. I've given a little shot of Rust Check in the drain holes in the forks legs and chain stays periodically once the bike is assembled. I ridden both my Troll and LHT threw multiple harsh winters here in Canada and neither bike has a speck of rust on it.

    Rust Check is available at most auto parts supply stores I believe.
    Thanks! I think I'll spray the chainstays and whatever I can get from the seat tube.
    "Geologic time includes now."

  17. #17
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    Be super careful. I would not want that stuff anywhere near my derailleurs or brake calipers. When I sprayed Frame Saver it got messy quick. I wanted to be thorough and the next thing it was pouring out all over the place. Me personally, well it's a bit of a bummer, butt I wouldn't do it.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodsgroovin View Post
    Be super careful. I would not want that stuff anywhere near my derailleurs or brake calipers. When I sprayed Frame Saver it got messy quick. I wanted to be thorough and the next thing it was pouring out all over the place. Me personally, well it's a bit of a bummer, butt I wouldn't do it.
    Thanks for that info. I'll have to really think about it. I don't have vent holes on my chainstays----just up on the little crossbar that connects the chainstays on top. Plastic bags for disc calipers and derailleur.....
    Or better not to do anything at all?
    "Geologic time includes now."

  19. #19
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    I taped up all of my vent holes then sprayed alittle in at a time on each section of the bike. The keys is to spray some in and then pick the bike up and twirl and swirl, flip it upside down and on its sides and just spray in alittle at a time. Then let it sit for a few hours upright on a piece of cardboard and pull the tape off. Hope that makes sense.........

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bevalhalla View Post
    I taped up all of my vent holes then sprayed alittle in at a time on each section of the bike. The keys is to spray some in and then pick the bike up and twirl and swirl, flip it upside down and on its sides and just spray in alittle at a time. Then let it sit for a few hours upright on a piece of cardboard and pull the tape off. Hope that makes sense.........
    Yep, that makes sense! I got the nod from a guy at Surly who said it was okay to do it with the bb still in place.
    "Geologic time includes now."

  21. #21
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    Got the FS today. Their instructions for a complete bike are to just spray in the seat tube and in one of the water bottle screw holes. I did this, and a little extra. I strongly recommend doing exactly what they say, and no more. Better yet, just wait until your next complete overhaul and do it then. The stuff is indeed a little messy and unpredictable!
    "Geologic time includes now."

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodsgroovin View Post
    Be super careful. I would not want that stuff anywhere near my derailleurs or brake calipers. When I sprayed Frame Saver it got messy quick. I wanted to be thorough and the next thing it was pouring out all over the place. Me personally, well it's a bit of a bummer, butt I wouldn't do it.
    I'm definitely waiting until to my next overhaul to put any more in my frame!
    "Geologic time includes now."

  23. #23
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    I was less than careful about neatness when I put frame saver in my new Pugsley frame last winter. The result was a fair amount of the stuff dripped out onto my porch, where it promptly froze onto the Trex boards. I tried to wipe up the mess from the porch right away, but I was too late. The product really was frozen solid. The stains are still there, reminding me of that winter day when I was in too much of a hurry to start building my bike.

    When I brought the frame inside, I dripped plenty of frame saver onto the ceramic tile and hardwood floors on my way to the basement. I was busy for a while cleaning up after myself. At least, both the tile and the hardwood came completely clean.

    There's no doubt that I got the product onto all interior surfaces of the frame, and unfortunately, many exterior ones as well.
    Spinymouse

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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spinymouse View Post
    I was less than careful about neatness when I put frame saver in my new Pugsley frame last winter. The result was a fair amount of the stuff dripped out onto my porch, where it promptly froze onto the Trex boards. I tried to wipe up the mess from the porch right away, but I was too late. The product really was frozen solid. The stains are still there, reminding me of that winter day when I was in too much of a hurry to start building my bike.

    When I brought the frame inside, I dripped plenty of frame saver onto the ceramic tile and hardwood floors on my way to the basement. I was busy for a while cleaning up after myself. At least, both the tile and the hardwood came completely clean.

    There's no doubt that I got the product onto all interior surfaces of the frame, and unfortunately, many exterior ones as well.
    I'm glad you got the bike done----once should be enough! I definitely don't have all of the frame "saved", but I managed to avoid utter disaster!
    "Geologic time includes now."

  25. #25
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    Just wanted to let you all know that the Krampus is the best bike ever created by the hand of man...I own a Mukluk Moonie Stumpjumper FSR 29er and a Krampus and the Krampus just got better with my new BLUTO forks....and handlebar cancel out control. My Krampus is now better in every way and in rock gardens its the KING...Weight gain 8ounces. If I can figure out how to post pics on this site I will if not feel free to e-mail me for pics....Plenty of room for the 29+ tire NO PROBLEM

  26. #26
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    Frame Saver Application

    Quote Originally Posted by Jordicarmel View Post
    Just wanted to let you all know that the Krampus is the best bike ever created by the hand of man...I own a Mukluk Moonie Stumpjumper FSR 29er and a Krampus and the Krampus just got better with my new BLUTO forks....and handlebar cancel out control. My Krampus is now better in every way and in rock gardens its the KING...Weight gain 8ounces. If I can figure out how to post pics on this site I will if not feel free to e-mail me for pics....Plenty of room for the 29+ tire NO PROBLEM
    My first impression on your post is it wont make sense what you're talking if no pictures. But then, you are already working on it so yeah, really appreciate your positive comments. I cant wait to get mine setup and ridden,
    Cheers 😃
    When trails gets tougher, Just stand up and deliver.

  27. #27
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    I think my pixel count is to high on my pics send me...I will send you pics my email address is prettypugsley@rcn.com The guys at Bikeman.com really guided me totally o
    In the right direction and everything was spot on

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodsgroovin View Post
    Hello. I'm about to spray JP Weigle Frame Saver in my frame and want to ask if there are any "do's and don'ts" other than the directions on the "spray can". I didn't get any other instructions with the can so if anyones got any tips or whatever please let me know. I saw a post where someone said dont spray the seat tube. I'm planning on spraying the whole inside of the frame, seat tube and all. THANX.

    Per chance does anyone know if this frame saver is available in Europe (specifically Italy), or at least another name that I should be looking for.

    I havent treated my two surly frames (or indeed the other two steel frames I have), but after the disaster of a summer we have had here, maybe it is time I treated them, but dont know what to look for.

    many thanks


    A
    N+1 = the correct equation for the number of bikes...............

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Welshboy View Post
    Per chance does anyone know if this frame saver is available in Europe (specifically Italy), or at least another name that I should be looking for.

    I havent treated my two surly frames (or indeed the other two steel frames I have), but after the disaster of a summer we have had here, maybe it is time I treated them, but dont know what to look for.

    many thanks


    A
    You want a corrosion protection spray. There are many options.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    You want a corrosion protection spray. There are many options.
    Thanks Vikb, I will get myself down to a supermarket this weekend to have a look.



    A
    N+1 = the correct equation for the number of bikes...............

  31. #31
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    Isn't there a home brew recipe using boiled linseed oil and a solvent such as paint thinner?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by pursuiter View Post
    Isn't there a home brew recipe using boiled linseed oil and a solvent such as paint thinner?
    You can just use linseed oil.

    FWIW - I've frame saved some of my Surly frames and not others. Living in Canada they've been subjected to road salt when I lived in Calgary and now ocean salt and lots of rain on the coast.

    Over the 5-7 year period I owned most of them there was no difference between frames I "protected" and the ones I didn't. There were also no signs that the unprotected ones were rusting towards failure any time soon.

    My latest Surly frame is a all weather commuter that will see lots of moistness. I didn't bother "protecting" it from rust.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  33. #33
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    Same here Vic. We would see aluminum bikes come to the shop that were about to disintegrate from corrosion and steel bikes that looked like new. The difference was not internal rust protection the difference was a bike that gets cleaned and washed and one that doesn't.

  34. #34
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    I have never rust proofed frames. After a wet and/or muddy ride, just left the seat post out for a bit. Zero problems to date.

  35. #35
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    Frame Saver Application

    Sooooooo.....I am picking up a '14 Pug from my LBS Sunday. I live in NH. Does it need to be "Framesaved"? If not, is just a good soap and water wash after each ride sufficient? Or are there other suggestions for winter care. Thanks!

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by homebrewtim View Post
    Sooooooo.....I am picking up a '14 Pug from my LBS Sunday. I live in NH. Does it need to be "Framesaved"? If not, is just a good soap and water wash after each ride sufficient? Or are there other suggestions for winter care. Thanks!
    Framesaving is for the inside. Soap and water would remove salt to prevent exterior corrosion.

    My experience has been that the framesaving isn't necessary. The exterior washing will keep your bike from looking like a POS.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  37. #37
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    Frame Saver Application

    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    Framesaving is for the inside. Soap and water would remove salt to prevent exterior corrosion.

    My experience has been that the framesaving isn't necessary. The exterior washing will keep your bike from looking like a POS.
    Thanks. I understand FS the inside and wash the outside. A better question to ask may have been what is the best way to maintain my new toy. This is the first steel bike I've owned and only my 3rd in recent years. My other two are an aluminum hybrid and carbon Spec Crux.

    Cheers,

    Tim

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by homebrewtim View Post
    Thanks. I understand FS the inside and wash the outside. A better question to ask may have been what is the best way to maintain my new toy. This is the first steel bike I've owned and only my 3rd in recent years. My other two are an aluminum hybrid and carbon Spec Crux.

    Cheers,

    Tim
    On my Pugs I did nothing for the first 3 yrs which included Canadian winters, summer dirt and Baja beach camping for weeks at a time. At the end of that time I had some external rust that looked ugly, but had no functional impact. When I tore down the bike to repaint it I didn't notice anything that would lead me to think there was an internal rust problem. I sold the bike after 5-6yrs and it's going strong for the new owner.

    If I could redo anything I would just have washed it more frequently and/or waxed it to avoid the external rust which would have meant no need to get a new powder coat.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
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  39. #39
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    Frame Saver Application

    Quote Originally Posted by vikb View Post
    On my Pugs I did nothing for the first 3 yrs which included Canadian winters, summer dirt and Baja beach camping for weeks at a time. At the end of that time I had some external rust that looked ugly, but had no functional impact. When I tore down the bike to repaint it I didn't notice anything that would lead me to think there was an internal rust problem. I sold the bike after 5-6yrs and it's going strong for the new owner.

    If I could redo anything I would just have washed it more frequently and/or waxed it to avoid the external rust which would have meant no need to get a new powder coat.
    Thanks. Good to hear. Salt, snow and sand are in this bikes future. I haven't waxed a bike since my Schwinn Banana Seat I ride as kid!

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by homebrewtim View Post
    Thanks. Good to hear. Salt, snow and sand are in this bikes future. I haven't waxed a bike since my Schwinn Banana Seat I ride as kid!
    After 3yrs $150 for a new powder coat wasn't awful and frankly I liked the new colour way more than the stock one so I wasn't unhappy.

    I could have simply removed the rust with a dremel and hit the patches with some touch up paint out of a spray can.

    All this to say don't worry your Surly is not delicate. Enjoy the new rig.
    Safe riding,

    Vik
    www.vikapproved.com

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