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  1. #1
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    Cross Check Drop Out Adjusters??

    I'm new to Surly and off-road...I'm building up a single speed for trail riding...

    When I received the CC frame they came with adjuster screws not installed...I have absolutely no idea...

    a) What they are for...and

    b) How to install them...(they come with a spring? - where does that go...inside or outside?)

    In short, I'm completely clueless...so if someone could take that time to fill me in...I'd appreciate it...

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Did I catch a niner?
    Reputation: Mr Pink57's Avatar
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    If you look on the back of the dropout (frame side not open ended side) you should see a hole, I think you can take it from there.
    Mr. Krabs: Is it true, Squidward? Is it hilarious?
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  3. #3
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    back to front: knurled nut, dropout, spring, screw.

    You have to install the screw first, then add the knurled nut to the end of it once it's through the dropout. They don't work like tensioners, if that's your intent. They're to keep the wheel from sliding backwards...

  4. #4
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    Thanks! That helps.

    I just found it odd to put the rounded nut (that screws onto the end of the screw) on the outside of the dropout...given that it's the end you'd turn for adjustment...wouldn't it turn itself off the end of the screw when you turned the adjuster in or out?...

    I also don't understand the function of the spring......if any.

    I'm sure I'm missing something.

  5. #5
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    Yeah, if you need to loosen the screw (to lengthen wheelbase) you have to take the wheel out and use the screw head. If you want to tighten it (shorten wheelbase), you can use the nut. I run my 'cross-check geared, and I like a short wheelbase (not that a few mm's make much difference), so I start with them most of the way forward, put the wheel in, then adjust with the knurled nut to center the wheel. I think the spring is probably just there to put some tension on the screw so it doesn't rattle out, but that's a guess...

  6. #6
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    As always...thanks everyone...that answers my questions and then some...

    I'm going to run a shorter wheelbase as well...

    Just looking forward to getting this thing on the trail.

  7. #7
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    Actually, for single speed you should not need the adjusters. Pretty sure they are for making shifting crisper in geared mode. Otherwise it would become a slow process to adjust everything if you have two different sized single speed cogs on a flip flop hub.

  8. #8
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    I assumed (being new) that the adjusters on a single speed were more used as a guide for maintaining the position of your rear wheel in the semi-horizontal dropout..should you have to remove it and re-install and so forth...I could be wrong on that.

  9. #9
    @adelorenzo
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    Mine is fixed gear and I don't use the screws... You can position the wheel just fine without them.

  10. #10
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    Of course you can, but it doesn't hurt to use 'em either.

  11. #11
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    If you are using threaded axles, then you don't need them ... the axle will stay where you put it. If you are using QRs, then they do help things aligned.

  12. #12
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    Thanks everyone for your input...I use the screws to keep everything in line in the back...and if I take off the tire...it gets it back into line easily.

  13. #13
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    Now that I put a geared hub onto mine I am thinking about adding the screws in. If I don't pull the wheel back to the same spot each time, am I going to have to readjust the derailer screw thingy (not the 2 limit screws but rather the 3rd screw that affects the angle of the derailer)?

  14. #14
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    Nah, don't need to worry much about that 3rd adjustment screw. It controls how close to the cassette the upper pulley rides. It is not exactly a fine tuning sort of adjustment. It might make a difference between slammed all the way back or forward, but for subtle differences in wheel placement, don't worry about it.

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