Can a troll be made to have the same effective geometry as a cross check?
By effective I mean can it, with the right height seat post with the right set back and the right stem, be made to have the same seating position as the cross check?
Also, on an unrelated note, I didn't want to start a thread over it, but if you need a 110mm stem, is the bike too small?
More than likely you could mimic a CC position, unless you're using a very short stem already on the CC. The Troll has a longer top tube, so you would need a much shorter stem to match the CC. I guess it kind of depends on what bars you are running.
Modern bike sizing seems to run to shorter (50~100mm) stems, but back in the day, we used to run up to 150mm, with 120~130mm more typical. Surly MTBs seem to run a bit short in the top tube, so I would say 110mm stem is not out of the question. I think their complete bikes come with about that size stem in the larger sizes.
WTB: fatbike hub, 170mm QR
WTB: Large steel 29er (Niner SIR9, Soma Juice, Gunnar Rockhound, Singluar Swift or XL Gryphon)
Short answer: Probably. 110 stem is cool. Fit is personal.
As long as the frame sizes are "close enough" (and even then there can be considerable "wiggle room") then sure. With the amount of available stems, seatposts, cranks and handlebars out there you can make your Contact Point Triangle (CPT) similar enough when frames normally wouldn't suggest it possible to the inexperienced eye.
Originally Posted by aBicycle
I have a 2 Large-sized Misfit Psycles diSSents, and 60 cm Cross Check, an 18" Karate Monkey and a Large Kona Blast - all can easily be set up to have the BB, seat and grips well within 1" of each other, certainly closer with "odd sized" parts. I don't have them set up quite that close to each other though, because ...
... because that's why. I won't say it's because the bike is sized wrong, but to ME it says there is a less-than-optimal compromise(s) being made somewhere in the bicycle->rider equation. I personally don't prefer to run stems any longer than 100 mm. This is based on decades of experience screwing around with many different things. I will happily bend this rule when my body and bike say so, though. Usually it's my lower back that does the talking. If the bike's handling is really intolerable then i'll adjust what's needed and re-evaluate.
Originally Posted by aBicycle
Now, that being said, the Blast currently runs a 110mm stem for several reasons, such as it came with the bike and I don't want to spend the extra money on it right now because it works with the particular handlebar that's on there (Kona 50mm rise, also came with the bike).
The rest of my bikes run 80 - 100mm stems which I prefer to run. I am used the feel of the steering like this and I prefer it when compared against longer stems, provided the rest of the frame's geometry is "just so".
My back hasn't complained to me for several years now, primarily since going 29er (although the Blast has been a very pleasant surprise).
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