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Hi Lo rear disc hub service/replacement

130K views 88 replies 38 participants last post by  Cannonf700 
#1 ·
I've tried my Google Fu and I'm not coming up with much here.

Just got a 2013 Stumpjumper Comp 29 HT for my wife (second hand so no warranty) and the rear hub sounds terrible. It rolls but sounds gritty and as if there is no grease in it or it is already shot. ** I should add that I've found a lot of complaining of these hubs being poor quality, but no info on how to remedy the issue.

I'm looking for two things. A repair manual or any help on dis-assembly so that I can service it myself to try to salvage...or help finding the exact dimensions of the hub so I could buy an upgrade/replacement hub and lace it up with the same spokes to keep costs down. I've heard that the X-9 hubs can be swapped in...any others that folks know off hand? She gets jealous of the clicks from my Hope hub so loud is OK.

Thanks for any help!
 
#2 ·
I saw a post somewhere that showed a hole drilled into the hub to allow lubricant to be added. I have had one fail on my Stumpjumper and the LBS replaced it at my cost so no warranty is really not an issue. I also have one on my Camber that I am awaiting the same issue to occur somewhere down the road since they are notorious for failure. Not sure if that post is still here but you are welcome to search for it. I think replacement is the best option, go to LBS and just order one.

Searched for the post, long gone. Maybe the original poster will post again. I do know he removed the hub, drilled a small hole into it, added a certain oil and then plugged the hole with something. Can't remember what, but if it's bad how much damage can you really do. I think the part itself is a remove and replace type of part. Sealed and un-serviceable.
 
#3 ·
Oh I did find this (http://forums.mtbr.com/specialized/specialized-hi-lo-142-hub-764972-2.html#post9745934) I wasn't looking at the 142+ hub threads because I thought this one was a 135mm. Maybe this is worth a try, but I might get a quote from the LBS on a replacement hub first. I have built wheels before so if I know what hub would be a "drop in" replacement allowing me to reuse the spokes I would go that route. The bike supposedly had less than 10 rides on it and judging by tire wear and such it looks to be true. Shame those hubs are so crappy.
 
#6 ·
I have a '12 SJ FSR comp 29er, and I had the exact same issue with my rear wheel. It rolled fine, but sounded like the bearings had run dry. I took it to the LBS where I bought the bike, and the owner got in touch with Specialized. While they would not say that there was a problem with the hubs, my LBS was supplied with a brand new hub, laced to a rim, so all I had to do was remount my tire. Two days later, I was back on the trails! New hub works amazing, even sounds like a higher quality one (a bit louder when freewheeling)
 
#7 ·
Honestly why do you want to bother in fixing those hubs ? If you can take advantage of your LBS in giving you a warranty replacement then go ahead,but I would seriously consider in replacing the whole thing with a more serious and reilable rim,it will make a day a night difference.
This warranty thing for these hubs tells Specialized must have of some sort of cheap contract with a chinese sub contractor. These Hi Lo hubs just keep crumbling apart after a few ridesno matter how good you look after them,period. It's a lessons we have to take from Specialized : you don't want these Hi Lo hubs ? Buy Sworks or Expert level...
 
#17 ·
There's really nothing wrong with the hubs if maintained, they are definitely not on par with a lot of the aftermarket hubs that are available but we are not all racers or want nothing but the best on our bikes regardless of cost. I just ride :) This video comes to mind after reading the last few replies :) LOL
 
#18 ·
Sorry, but the freehubs are not up to the task. They should have had three pawls, not two. Having them operate inside a free hub shell with a 36 tooth sprocket multiplying a chain tension that is already about three times the riders weight when standing in the small ring...well, let's just say the design was optimistic - and then collided with reality.

The new hubs have three pawls inside a much larger outboard ring. IOW the loads are lower by maybe half and the hubshell isn't doing double duty. They are easily serviced and run on cartridge bearings. You don't have to be a racer or an equipment geek to appreciate that. And you can maintain the old ones all you want and they'll still be prone to break. I never had to walk home but that was just luck.

Nobody will ever miss those hubs. Unless they're using them for target practice.
 
#27 ·
Sealed Bearings: Supplier



Logofreak: your overhaul instructions are a success,thanks. Noise is gone. I got the loose bearings from McMaster to exchange all as soon as I get the sealed bearings. Another Q: who sells the sealed bearings? Any suggested brand better than factory ones?
 
#21 · (Edited)
Start by removing the brake rotor so it doesn't get greasy.

Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle tire Bicycle part Spoke Bicycle accessory


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Remove the cassette.

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On the drive side undo the axle nuts, you'll need 2 17mm cone wrenches.

Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle tire Bicycle part Spoke Rim


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To remove the axle you will have to support the non drive side with a socket large enough and hit it from the drive side with a plastic mallet.

Bicycle tire Wheel Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle part Spoke


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Now to remove the freehub you will need a 14mm allen key, it needs to be at least 3in long because the bolt is accessed through the non-drive side.

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After the bolt is removed the hub will simply pull off.

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Bicycle wheel rim Spoke Rim Bicycle tire Bicycle part


Now onto the freehub.

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Remove the seal that's on the drive side of the freehub if you haven't done so already.

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This will expose the drive side cartridge bearing. To get it out you'll have to tap it out with a screw driver from the opposite side, doing so you'll most likely damage the bearing. You could use a collet style bearing puller if you have one, with the price of bearings being so low I don't bother. The other method you could use is by putting the freehub into a vice (wrap the freehub in a towel so it doesn't get damaged), find a rod that is the same size as the ID of the bearing. Insert it into the bearing and gently pry in opposing directions until the bearing comes out. You can use the axle however you'll most likely damage the threads which is why I don't recommend it.

Finger Household hardware Metal Thumb Nail


With the bearing out of the way you can now remove the cup that holds the bearing and also keep the hub in one piece. This is a left hand thread, meaning you will turn clockwise to unscrew it.

Finger Metal Household hardware Cylinder Material property


When you pull the bearing cup out do it over a container as now there's nothing holding the hub together and all the ball bearings will start to fall out. As you pull out the bearing cup under are a wave washer and 2 shims, remember in what order they came out as you'll want to reinstall them in the same order.

Household hardware Circle Metal Cylinder Brass


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Remove the 2 pawls, they are simply help by a retaining ring that acts as a spring as well to keep the pawls in the open position

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This is what you should have after taking it all apart.

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Clean all the parts in degreaser or solvent, I find it easiest to use a small paint brush. Brake cleaner from an automotive supplier works great to rinse the parts after you've cleaned them, just don't use it on any of the rubber seals as they could get damaged. The brake cleaner evaporates quickly which is why I like using it, just do it in a well ventilated areas as it has a strong odour.

Re-assembly.

Let's start with putting the pawls back on, put a light coat of wheel bearing grease and place the pawls into their slots.

Finger Metal Household hardware Thumb Fastener


Now put the retaining ring back on to hold the pawls in place, it goes inside the groove.

Finger Thumb Metal Household hardware Brass


There are 52 ball bearings in total, 26 per side. Apply some grease to the inside race and start placing all 26 ball bearings. They will stick to the grease, but do this over a container as sometimes one or two might still fall off. Once all the ball bearings are in place slide the outer hub body onto the inner while holding the pawls closed. This is what you'll see from the drive side once you're done.

Finger Metal Household hardware Thumb Circle


And from the non-drive side

Product Font Metal Circle Cylinder


Now install the 2 spacers and wave washer on the drive side and place the remaining 26 ball bearings into the outer race.

Finger Metal Circle Thumb Silver


Finger Metal Household hardware Circle Brass


You can now tighten the bearing cup with the tool, there's no preload to be worried about. The washers inside take care of the right spacing so just tighten it without using to much excessive force.

Finger Metal Household hardware Cylinder Aluminium


It helps if you temporarily pop the freehub onto your wheel as a method of holding it while tightening that cup.

You will need 2 new sealed bearings to finish the job, they are both from enduro bearings even though one of them has a cane creek seal. The part numbers are HFR6006 for the drive side and 6902 (I went with the LLU Max bearings).

Finger Skin Plaid Tartan Pattern


Finger Plaid Tartan Metal Pattern


Proceed by installing the drive side bearing first, you can use a socket that fits the bearing (use the back of the socket so that it supports both inner and outer races). You can either tap the bearing in (it won't sit flush with the bearing cup when all the way in) or use a table wise as a press.

I'll finish the write up tonight....
 
#32 ·
Where can i find Replacement pawls?

I just took my hub apart, and found one of the pawls broken.
does anyone know where i can buy replacement pawls for this specialized hub?

Regarding the ball bearings, i counted 50 total. Also, the bearings appeared to be in very bad shape (tarnished). the internal condition of my hub was in bad shape, it appears that water and dirt got in.

For replacing the ball bearings, go with the 440C material, its got higher hardness value.

Rectangle Laptop accessory Home accessories Everyday carry Serving tray


Alejandro
 
#33 ·
Hi Alejandro,

I highly doubt you'll find replacement parts for it, there is absolutely no support for this freewheel from specialized. Best place would be to ask around and see if someone would sell/give you their freehub when they've upgraded so something else. Keeping this freehub clean and greased is the way to keep it working for a long time, looks like you were a little to late on the maintenance :-(
 
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