(cross-posted in Drivetrain forum)
I'm bouncing back and forth on this. Give me your 2¢...
I am fitting a Speedhub (Thanks again, Alex!) to a frame with 145mm dropout spacing. I've got most of the issues solved, but this one was unexpected:
There is only one orientation I can run the external shifter box, as pictured. It doesn't work in any other position, and can only point down lest the cables interfere with the disc brake caliper.
The housing, as pictured, is a quick 'n dirty mock-up. I think I'll need to run a slightly larger loop, but it ought not dip down much lower than the rotor (which is a huge 220mm, for reference).
I'm worried about cable snags on low branches, shrubbery and vines, but looking at the mock-up, it doesn't dip as low as I originally imagined. Maybe I'm ok. (...and after rotating the picture to "level" I feel better -- so far I've been looking at this at an angle and it looks worse).
Option #2 is to convert the hub to non-disc, eliminating the shifter box and cable routing hassle. Both options have pros and cons!
Here are the details:
- Cannondale MT2000 tandem. Mostly tame fireroad and singletrack; nothing kooky.
- The spot of silver behind the axle nut & dropout is ~6mm worth of spacers to partially fill the difference between the frame's 145mm dropouts, and the Speedhub's 135mm OLD.
- I'm using Rohloff's long threaded axle plate part #8233L, which is about 8mm longer than stock, to make room for the 6mm axle spacer stack.
- I'll be redishing the wheel a few millimeters towards the non-drive side -- yes, a non-symmetrical Speedhub on a tandem.
- There is a 10mm gap between the face of the frame's disc brake tabs, and the face of the disc brake adapter. If I stick with the disc, I'll drill out a piece of 3/8" aluminum bar stock to use as a giant spacer, rather than using traditional disc brake spacers (a stack of washers).
- A Speedbone will not easily work with this setup due to the gap -- the Speedbone's "nub" will not reach inward far enough to engage with the hub's axle plate.
- A non-disc conversion of the Speedhub would probably be easiest, but:
- - - > Cost of the hub conversion (~?)
- - - > Cost of Magura HS33 rear brake (~$100)
- - - > Ugly exposed cable run off of rear brake post
- - - > Prevents installation of a reserve / emergency rim brake for stoker
Here are some shots of the long threaded axle plate:
I'm bouncing back and forth on this. Give me your 2¢...
I am fitting a Speedhub (Thanks again, Alex!) to a frame with 145mm dropout spacing. I've got most of the issues solved, but this one was unexpected:
There is only one orientation I can run the external shifter box, as pictured. It doesn't work in any other position, and can only point down lest the cables interfere with the disc brake caliper.
The housing, as pictured, is a quick 'n dirty mock-up. I think I'll need to run a slightly larger loop, but it ought not dip down much lower than the rotor (which is a huge 220mm, for reference).
I'm worried about cable snags on low branches, shrubbery and vines, but looking at the mock-up, it doesn't dip as low as I originally imagined. Maybe I'm ok. (...and after rotating the picture to "level" I feel better -- so far I've been looking at this at an angle and it looks worse).
Option #2 is to convert the hub to non-disc, eliminating the shifter box and cable routing hassle. Both options have pros and cons!
Here are the details:
- Cannondale MT2000 tandem. Mostly tame fireroad and singletrack; nothing kooky.
- The spot of silver behind the axle nut & dropout is ~6mm worth of spacers to partially fill the difference between the frame's 145mm dropouts, and the Speedhub's 135mm OLD.
- I'm using Rohloff's long threaded axle plate part #8233L, which is about 8mm longer than stock, to make room for the 6mm axle spacer stack.
- I'll be redishing the wheel a few millimeters towards the non-drive side -- yes, a non-symmetrical Speedhub on a tandem.
- There is a 10mm gap between the face of the frame's disc brake tabs, and the face of the disc brake adapter. If I stick with the disc, I'll drill out a piece of 3/8" aluminum bar stock to use as a giant spacer, rather than using traditional disc brake spacers (a stack of washers).
- A Speedbone will not easily work with this setup due to the gap -- the Speedbone's "nub" will not reach inward far enough to engage with the hub's axle plate.
- A non-disc conversion of the Speedhub would probably be easiest, but:
- - - > Cost of the hub conversion (~?)
- - - > Cost of Magura HS33 rear brake (~$100)
- - - > Ugly exposed cable run off of rear brake post
- - - > Prevents installation of a reserve / emergency rim brake for stoker
Here are some shots of the long threaded axle plate: