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  1. #1
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    XX1 top pulley cage/cable pull guide interference shifting to 10T cog

    Who else has had this issue? Shifting over to the 10T cog the top pulley cage hits the cable pull guide which results in not enough movement of the RD to drop the chain onto the 10T cog. It's the smallest of amounts and a 3mm washer spacing the RD out from the hanger will solve the problem. In my case a different hanger from Banshee did the trick.

    Cage hitting pulley guide (there is solid contact)
    XX1 top pulley cage/cable pull guide interference shifting to 10T cog-img_0394.jpg

    Cage with new hanger which moved RD out 3mm (a washer will also work with my previous hanger but thread engagement of the RD is compromised a bit with that hanger)
    XX1 top pulley cage/cable pull guide interference shifting to 10T cog-img_0400.jpg
    2013 Banshee Spitfire V2 650b

  2. #2
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    I have that problem too...you have a 135mm frame bike. I've asked my bike manufacturer to make me a custom hanger to support 135mm frame, but they've been reluctant to support this idea telling me it's SRAM's problem. SRAM will tell you to put a washer between the hanger and the derailleur.

    Alternatively you can connect your chain and adjust everything to the 10T with the chain pulling down the pulley cage and it'll work for you, but if the chain falls off or breaks while you're in the 10T cog...your kinda screwed.

    You need a hanger that's 3mm thicker...so basically SRAM designed the XX1 drivetrain for 142mm... 7mm wider than 135mm frame. 3.5mm is the drive side and 3.5 is the non drive side. Add 3.5mm or 3mm and your a 142mm setup on the drive side and it should work perfectly...I posted a thread on Santa cruz forum...but still not getting any resolution yet.

  3. #3
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    Bug not Feature

    Quote Originally Posted by imom View Post
    I have that problem too...you have a 135mm frame bike...SRAM will tell you to put a washer between the hanger and the derailleur.

    You need a hanger that's 3mm thicker...so basically SRAM designed the XX1 drivetrain for 142mm... 7mm wider than 135mm frame. 3.5mm is the drive side and 3.5 is the non drive side. Add 3.5mm or 3mm and your a 142mm setup on the drive side and it should work perfectly...
    I've encountered and resolved the same issue. It's a simple but vexing problem that SRAM should have anticipated. Imom is correct. The derailleur cable guide is slightly (and unnecessarily) too wide (reaches too far inboard) not to interfere with the travel of the derailleur cage on frames with either a relatively narrow derailleur hanger or less than 142mm of rear spacing (which is a LOT of frames, including my 135mm frame). The interference simply prevents the derailleur from traveling far enough outboard to reach the smallest cog on a SRAM 11 speed cassette.

    But, in most cases, I think the problem probably can be resolved with less than a 3.5mm spacer between the derailleur mounting bolt and the derailleur hanger. I found that a 2mm washer was enough to move the entire derailleur outboard far enough to clear the problem. Of course, that reduces the amount of thread purchase that the derailleur fixing bolt enjoys in the derailleur hanger so beware of the derailleur mounting bolt possible backing out during use. Keep an eye on it.

    SRAM should be offering either a small washer or a replacement derailleur cable guide that is slightly narrower. Get with it, SRAM.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMBAdaniel View Post
    But, in most cases, I think the problem probably can be resolved with less than a 3.5mm spacer between the derailleur mounting bolt and the derailleur hanger. I found that a 2mm washer was enough to move the entire derailleur outboard far enough to clear the problem. Of course, that reduces the amount of thread purchase that the derailleur fixing bolt enjoys in the derailleur hanger so beware of the derailleur mounting bolt possible backing out during use. Keep an eye on it.

    SRAM should be offering either a small washer or a replacement derailleur cable guide that is slightly narrower. Get with it, SRAM.
    I didn't want to have issues with drivetrain breaking issues or falling off so I bought a washer, had it drilled, threads tapped, and then I brazed it to the hanger. It was anodized black, but the heat made it to a gold finish. Here's a picture of the brazed part without paint. I used the bolt to align the washer to the hanger while brazing the aluminum pieces together... I didn't bother with welding as I didn't have the equipment and it might compromise the hanger and bend it.

    Yeah... SRAM made it more difficult for no good reason that I can see mechanically. This washer made the frame like a 142mm frame. Hopefully I will get to this weekend or next to finish my bike build.

    Special thanks to Willie from SCB for taking care of me.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails XX1 top pulley cage/cable pull guide interference shifting to 10T cog-hanger.jpg  


  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by imom View Post
    ...I bought a washer, had it drilled, threads tapped, and then I brazed it to the hanger.
    That's a good, secure solution - and probably necessary if you are adding the full 3.5mm to the hanger. Unfortunately, my frame is titanium so welding or brazing were impossible or not very practical. Because I seem to be shifting well after adding just a 2mm washer, I think I still have plenty of thread purchase to hold the bolt in place. I'll be the first to know if that's not true. You can bet I'll be monitoring it on the trail - the last thing I need is to wrap a $250 derailleur around a $300 cassette all because SRAM apparently didn't try installing their flagship product on a frame with what is still the most common configuration in the market (135mm rear spacing).

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by IMBAdaniel View Post
    Unfortunately, my frame is titanium so welding or brazing were impossible or not very practical.
    Brazing is not like welding... you are not melting the parent material. It's more like soldering in that you are just adding another material as the "glue". If you google titanium and aluminum brazing...it exist. I was going to weld the parts, but I asked my former instructor and told me to use glue (loctite)... the shear force was much less than brazing...so I did brazing. The butane gas or propane....I used butane is much less than the melting point of aluminum...I would guess it's less than titanium as well.

    If your hanger is separate from your frame... worse you can do is mess up your replaceable hanger. SCB was cool enough to recognize that they didn't want to address SRAM's issue and just give me hangers to test with. They didn't want to make it and sell it since 135mm is no longer supported platform to design new bikes.

    I wasn't sure if 2mm or 3mm was going to be less threads for the b bolt to grip onto the frame. Worse thing for me is going down the mountain and derailleur falls off. The scenario may never happen...but if it does...several bad things can happen both financially and physcially. I rather be conservative and braze the parts and give it the same amount of threads the b-bolt was designed for.

  7. #7
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    I have two bikes with XX1 and when setting up the R/D I can see where this would be an issue, however, with some adjustment of the B-screw I was able to get everything to work correctly without the need to space out the R/D, although I can see where that would help.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    I have two bikes with XX1 and when setting up the R/D I can see where this would be an issue, however, with some adjustment of the B-screw I was able to get everything to work correctly without the need to space out the R/D, although I can see where that would help.
    I don't see how to adjust the b-bolt screw so far that it clears the cable guide without affecting normal operation...you want the b-bolt adjusted so the jockey wheel is close to the cassette as possible while still allowing you to do a double shift up (or down depending on how you see it). Ideally without the double shift...you want the jockey wheel to be very close to the cassette without affecting operation and it provides for smooth operation and shifts.

  9. #9
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    SRAM shows the jockey wheel needs to be between 12-16mm from the largest rear cog. Adjusting the B-screw moving the R/D up and down and still within that range worked for me. I just got done installing my third XX1 R/D, each time I got everything to work w/o issue. However, I did notice this time I pushed the R/D in just a bit before tightening the R/D cable, this helped provide a little clearance between the cable guide and the cage.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    SRAM shows the jockey wheel needs to be between 12-16mm from the largest rear cog. Adjusting the B-screw moving the R/D up and down and still within that range worked for me. I just got done installing my third XX1 R/D, each time I got everything to work w/o issue. However, I did notice this time I pushed the R/D in just a bit before tightening the R/D cable, this helped provide a little clearance between the cable guide and the cage.

    When you played with the B-screw...was the chain attached to the derailleur? Silly question...maybe, but the whole issue for me was I could get away with it working without modification as well...with the chain attached...if the chain falls off or breaks, that's when the jockey wheel would hit the pulley guide. I believe I had already adjusted the b-screw...but I wouldn't bet on this fact...so that's why I asked. For me the safest bet was to add a washer that was threaded and then brazed the washer onto my bike hanger.

    This will be my only bike for a while...so I didn't want to take a chance of damage or getting stuck if the chain falls off or breaks because the derailleur bent or worse.

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