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  1. #1
    Norđwegr
    Reputation: Vegard's Avatar
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    XX1 sounds like, well I don't know.

    There's a distinct grinding noise coming from the derailleur area when pedaling. Anyone run into something similar?

    The jockeywheels are spinning freely when the chain was off so I'm not sure where to start with the troubleshooting on this short of buying/trying a different derailleur.

  2. #2
    CHOP!
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    Chain gap

    Vegard,

    My XX1 exhibited the same grinding noise at first because I set it up wrong.

    I completely eliminated the noise by adjusting b-bolt to create at least a 12mm chain gap, which is what SRAM recommends.

    http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/T6...erailleurs.pdf

    Totally fixed the noise; my drivetrain runs smooth as ever now.
    It's not where it's made but how it's made.

  3. #3
    Norđwegr
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    I adjusted the b-bolt and the grinding is still present. Tried setting it on all the MMs mentioned.

    So far I've checked and ruled out:

    jockeywheels
    crank/bb
    pedals
    rear hub

    Also used two different chains.

    Thank you for the reply!

  4. #4
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    Is the XX1 cassette tightened down properly to the free hub? Have you set your limit screws?

  5. #5
    JNG
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    I noticed a slight grinding noise when turning the cranks on my bike stand that sounded like my rear brake pads rubbing against the rotor. I removed the brake pads and the sound was still there. I determined that the sound was coming from the outer part of XX1 chain rubbing on the next biggest cog (most noticeable on the smaller cogs). I could not adjust my high gear limit screw screw enough to prevent the slight rubbing. This problem was compounded greatly when I was pushing hard on the pedals while riding on the trail. It would then make clicking sounds - probably from the rivets or leading edge of the links clicking off the next largest cog. My solution was to put a stainless M10 washer between the derailleur and the dropout/derailleur hanger. The inner diameter of the washer is 10mm, the outer diameter is 18mm and the thickness is 1.6mm. Initially I used an aluminum axle spacer that was 10mm x 16mm x 1mm thick. It got deformed badly when I tightened the pivot bolt of the derailleur so I had to go with the beefier stainless washer.

    Another symptom I noticed before the washer was installed was that if I back pedaled the cranks while on the bike stand the chain tried to move from the smallest cog to the second smallest cog. Once the washer was installed the slight grinding noise went away. The clicking seems to have completely disappeared while riding (only tested riding on my street so far). The chain still tries to derail from the smallest cog to the 2nd smallest cog while on the bike stand but when riding (Full suspension frameset) that problem is completely gone too.

    Make sure the jockey wheel on the derailleur is centered on the largest cog but in the other direction the center of the jockey wheel should be lined up with the outboard edge of the 10 tooth cog. Without the washer I could not accomplish this on my frameset (Devince Dexter).

  6. #6
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    Have you checked to be sure the chain hasn't "skipped" a tooth on a jockey wheel? When that happens, you end up with the alternating fat teeth running in the chain links designed for the skinny teeth, and it makes a shitload of noise...

  7. #7
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    i have the exact same grinding problem, but mainly on the largest three cogs. i have two bikes with xx1 so i have swapped wheels, cassettes, replaced bottom bracket, cleaned and greased everything. i am beginning to think it is the pulleys and/or the chainring. this started about mile 450 and i replaced the chain at about 575 miles when it broke prematurely. i thought i had the pulley far enough away from the cassette, but i will check that again. can they pulley's be installed backwards or anything? did this every get fixed for you? much appreciated.

  8. #8
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by White Bear View Post
    i eyeballed it and it looked good. it is a kona raijin with sliding drop outs that have the hanger built in so i doubt it is bent. never the less, i will double check it. assuming it is good, then what? thanks!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodoljake View Post
    i eyeballed it and it looked good. it is a kona raijin with sliding drop outs that have the hanger built in so i doubt it is bent. never the less, i will double check it. assuming it is good, then what? thanks!
    Eyeballing it is not good enough. Make sure your derailleur is true to the wheel with the park alignment tool. I resolved nagging drivetrain noise issues on two of my bikes with it and couldn't "see" the difference.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by tjdog800 View Post
    Eyeballing it is not good enough. Make sure your derailleur is true to the wheel with the park alignment tool. I resolved nagging drivetrain noise issues on two of my bikes with it and couldn't "see" the difference.
    will do. certainly if that is the case i'll save a lot of money as to not have to replace anything too soon!! thanks.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodoljake View Post
    i eyeballed it and it looked good. it is a kona raijin with sliding drop outs that have the hanger built in so i doubt it is bent. never the less, i will double check it. assuming it is good, then what? thanks!
    I mentioned alignment because most peeps don't have/use tool, but very few are truly aligned from the factory.
    I'd check 1) chain length per SRAM's guide, 2) proper clutch actuation (biggest complaint), 3) proper cassette/wheel centering on chain ring per MartinsMenta's link above.

  13. #13
    11 is one louder than 10
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    I know this grinding as I'm now having it. Finally got my bike quieted down and after 200 miles this year, now this grinding. New chain, cassette, and r.deraileur this year... leaves the chainring as a possibility. I'm going to try another chainring next ride out and see if that does it. I have a 30t that is basically new.

    Love XX1, but it's much higher maintenance than Shimano for sure.

    Really wish Shimano had done a wider range 1 x 11.
    "The thing is, Bob, it's not that I'm lazy, it's that I just don't care."

  14. #14
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    In my experience, if you let the chain wear out completely, you will need to replace both the chain and chainring otherwise you will get the grinding that is common with a new chain and word out chainring. You might be able to get away with not replacing the rear cassette though. 650mi on my original XX1 setup no issues for me, seems to be wearing fine.

  15. #15
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    im getting some pretty bad grinding on an X01 kit, 2nd chain ~ 1k miles on ring & cassette & 500 on new chain. will try the 12mm b screw rule, messed with it on a ride today, cared when it was a $100 cassette now when its a $250 cassette I stop and try to fix. snowy ride so my chain may have just gotten cleaned of all lube.
    Go that way really fast......if anything gets in your way turn.

  16. #16
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    Ur chainring is done. Replace it and no more grinding.

  17. #17
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    Thanks for posting Martins - grinding gone and shifting is way more in line with the X01 $ tag! I should learn to read the directions better
    Go that way really fast......if anything gets in your way turn.

  18. #18
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    Tools cool! rad icon.

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