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  1. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by mastakilla View Post
    if someone can shot a video the next time they grease one of these derailleurs that would be greatly appreciated. i want to grease mine up, but i having a bit of difficulty following along how to do it without a video.
    Yes +1

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    I had the exact same creek. A couple drops of nanolube (I'm sure any good lube would do), and it's been quite for the past 5 rides.
    where are exactly are you putting the lube?

  3. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodoljake View Post
    where are exactly are you putting the lube?
    Oops..forgot to mention that detail. I lubed the derailleur mounting bolt area (derailleur side).

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    Oops..forgot to mention that detail. I lubed the derailleur mounting bolt area (derailleur side).
    Forgive me, but are you referring to the hanger bold that holds it onto the frame?

  5. #55

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    yes. Name:  XX1 problem.jpg
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    wow, that is what i thought you meant, but i'm surprised as it is not part of the type 2 clutch. regardless, if i get the creaking again i will try it!!! thanks.

  7. #57
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    Hi mates,

    May I know how to remove the plastic cover exposing the T55?

  8. #58
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    if you havent figured it out yet, just slide a razor blade under it and it pops off.

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Proxyserv View Post
    Hi mates,

    May I know how to remove the plastic cover exposing the T55?
    the plastic is the black circle inside the circle with the "TYPE 2.." letters.

    i almost broke the thing as i was trying to pry off the outer circle.

    the inner, plastic circle, pops off almost by itself - very easily.

  10. #60
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    Thanks for sharing this DIY. I was a bit worried opening this up because of the spring tension from reading this thread but to those of you that plan on doing this fix. It only took me just about 20 mins. It was really easy and the spring was easy to put on. Just screw in the 3mm bolt first (of course not all the way), just enough for you to still be able to wind the spring using the first part of the cage as a leverage.

    Anyway, I greased everything inside even the spring! The result is super smooth suspension and the annoying knocking is gone!

    Fyi.. Mine is the Type 2 X9 and it did have grease (brown in color) inside the bearing but very little. Even on the spring it has grease but thick grease. I used slick honey.

  11. #61
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    Just got my xx1 on my yeti sb 66 c and it does the same clunking noise. Calling sram tomorrow. This is brand new out of the box. We should not be having problems like this.

  12. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by Timyetisb66c View Post
    Just got my xx1 on my yeti sb 66 c and it does the same clunking noise. Calling sram tomorrow. This is brand new out of the box. We should not be having problems like this.
    go get them, by all means. although the structure of today's megacorps is such that your feedback never makes it to the designer guy, who, i seriously doubt even reads forums like this one.
    otherwise we would not be having these silly issues, with a part supposedly "non-serviceable".
    heck i don't think they are even aware of this problem, which would be a thousand times better alternative than that they are aware, but don't do anything about it.

    mine hasn't clunked since i greased it, but the smoothness decreased over time, and a new greasing would be good to do.

    SRAM, just please make a few holes on the new one so that we can grease it without opening it.
    SRAM, don't be ashamed that your derailleur needs greasing, it's kinda normal in the bike world.

  13. #63
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    I called and they said to take it to a bike shop. I did not feel right having the bike shop spend time on it after I bought it online. I tried to buy it from the bike shop, but had to wait 4 weeks. Another local rider already had his replaced for the knocking. Sram has also changed the chain design.

  14. #64
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    So I called sram and they are aware of the issue. They did say take it to the bike shop and have them call us. They also said they are still working out some bugs. That's kinda bull **** seeing that its been tested and has been available for how long now. I did ask them if I just need to take it apart and grease it and they said it would void the warranty if I did that. So guess I'm returning it and hope the next one is better than the first.

  15. #65
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    I have been enduring the knocking for a few months now on my SB66c because the XX1 was outta stock. I was contemplating opening up the clutch and greasing it but held back because it was still under warranty. Finally my LBS told me to bring it in as the new stocks had arrived. So, I will be sending it in to have SRAM tech ppl check it. If confirmed faulty, I will be getting a replacement. I just hope the new batch won't have this same problem.

  16. #66
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    the thing is, to remedy the clunking, in most cases you don't need to open it, and instead just loosen the big torx screw a little bit (like half rotation or something like that) - and that should not void the warranty in the slightest - imho.

  17. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    the thing is, to remedy the clunking, in most cases you don't need to open it, and instead just loosen the big torx screw a little bit (like half rotation or something like that) - and that should not void the warranty in the slightest - imho.
    Hi ypocat,

    Do you mean the screw below?
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  18. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Proxyserv View Post
    Hi ypocat,

    Do you mean the screw below?
    Name:  11kbia8.jpg
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    no, the other side, after you remove the plastic cap.

    i ride with the plastic cap removed actually, you can see the screw here:

    XX1 knocking/clunking-xx1-torx.jpg

    using this screw, you are creating pressure on the clutch (you press the two parts of the clutch into each other), which affects how much initial resistance the clutch exerts in the direction made by the derailleur when the chain extends.

    so just try to ease that up a bit and see.

  19. #69
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    Thanks ypocat. That explains a lot. I will give it a try, if my replacement RD acts up again. Did I mention how sexy your RD is...covered in all that dirt

  20. #70
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    Has anyone taken it to a LBS and asked them to perform the 55mm torx adjustment? That way there shouldn't be a warranty issue.

  21. #71
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    What! Everyone's out riding? Still would like to know of updates on the clutch. Also, if you have had a replacement from SRAM, did it take care of the issue?

  22. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by Proxyserv View Post
    Thanks ypocat. That explains a lot. I will give it a try, if my replacement RD acts up again. Did I mention how sexy your RD is...covered in all that dirt
    that was the reason for taking that pic! A mountain ride: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zRLmlgOzZk&hd=1

    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    What! Everyone's out riding? Still would like to know of updates on the clutch. Also, if you have had a replacement from SRAM, did it take care of the issue?
    yes i reckon somebody around here has mentioned that the problem came back after a replacement - well it's to be expected i think - there are conditions/environments (e.g. too wet rides), which make this more prone to happen.

    the bad thing is, when the clacking sound is made, it also means that your derailleur body and the hanger (and possibly chainstay) are very stressed - you can actually observe them bending badly if e.g. you have somebody else to cycle your rear suspension while at standstill, and you observe it from up close.

  23. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    using this screw, you are creating pressure on the clutch (you press the two parts of the clutch into each other), which affects how much initial resistance the clutch exerts in the direction made by the derailleur when the chain extends.

    so just try to ease that up a bit and see.
    This is the first thing I did on the RD. Loosen up the T55 screw and it didn't do anything. I then took the T55 screw off and compress the suspension (push down on the saddle to compress the suspension/chain growth) and the knocking was still there. Took the RD apart (as mentioned on previous post) and grease the everything where the clutch is. Knocking was eliminated but tension is still there. I have not dropped a chain or heard the knocking again. SUPER SMOOTH Shifting as well!!

  24. #74
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    On 4 different bikes with clunking issues (stumpjumper -xx1, Enduro -xx1, Demo -x9, and a Blur Lt- x0) I popped the t55 off, loosened the 4mm/3mm bolt until the clunk stopped, added a little grease into the opening and put the t55 back into place. None of the bikes have developed the clunk again.
    13 SJ Evo, 14 Aurum, 14 Fatboy, 15 P.3

  25. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    the bad thing is, when the clacking sound is made, it also means that your derailleur body and the hanger (and possibly chainstay) are very stressed - you can actually observe them bending badly if e.g. you have somebody else to cycle your rear suspension while at standstill, and you observe it from up close.
    Thanks, THAT is the reason I've become paranoid about the clunk. If SRAM could guarantee that the jockey wheels/chain/cassette would not see shortened life I might live with the clunk, but I doubt they would or could. As an engineer, I cant see how this would not shorten the life to some extent. I also have some shifting delays going down the cassette (low to high), which is more annoying than the clunk.
    I am not afraid to dig into the RD, but would not want the warranty voided, so I'm in limbo until this somehow get's sorted out.

  26. #76
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    Ok, so it's not just a simple loosening up the T55 kind of thing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    On 4 different bikes with clunking issues (stumpjumper -xx1, Enduro -xx1, Demo -x9, and a Blur Lt- x0) I popped the t55 off, loosened the 4mm/3mm bolt until the clunk stopped, added a little grease into the opening and put the t55 back into place. None of the bikes have developed the clunk again.

  27. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjay View Post
    Ok, so it's not just a simple loosening up the T55 kind of thing.
    loosening my T55 about 1/2 turn and cleaning/greasing the derailleur hanger has seemed to have solved my problem. Have about 250 on it since.

  28. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodoljake View Post
    loosening my T55 about 1/2 turn and cleaning/greasing the derailleur hanger has seemed to have solved my problem. Have about 250 on it since.
    If we knew exactly how the resistance is applied, then we would know how to reduce it. It's a pretty crude system that would use screw torque (T55 ?) to increase resistance, but maybe that's how it works. I wonder what role, if any, the 3&4 mm screws play.

    What I am feeling when I move the derailleur forward is classic stiction. Force increasing until it releases (clunk/knock), then moves smoothly until forward motion stops. In this system, somehow you have to generate resistance either thru friction or force. Some material interfaces do a better job of minimizing stiction than others. OK, stop me from rambling.

  29. #79
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    What's the status on this junk? I have 10 miles on my new derailleur and it has started making noise
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  30. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by J3SSEB View Post
    What's the status on this junk? I have 10 miles on my new derailleur and it has started making noise
    I've had two tech's look at mine. The last one loosened the T55 slightly and it did make a slight difference, and the shifting improved somewhat, but the clunk is still there.
    I'm headed back in to have it warranted soon. Clearly a design flaw, which is uncalled for in a $400 simple mechanism.

  31. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    I've had two tech's look at mine. The last one loosened the T55 slightly and it did make a slight difference, and the shifting improved somewhat, but the clunk is still there.
    I'm headed back in to have it warranted soon. Clearly a design flaw, which is uncalled for in a $400 simple mechanism.
    Oh boy! I'm excited to take it apart and mess with it I bought mine from a online store on eBay. Chances are SRAM won't warranty and I don't want to go through the store I got it from. Turn around times are probably ridiculous. Should have stuck with my 2x10
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  32. #82
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    The 3/4mm bolts are what tensions the clutch. You can crank them tight and nearly lockout the RD, or you can open them way up and make it feel like a non-clutch RD. It is actually a very simple design and easy to adjust. When I took my Enduro Evo to Whistler I tightened the 3/4mm bolts up a bit to reduce chainslap, then when I got back home I backed it off for quieter trail riding.

    Whenever I remove the T55 I always put a little grease inside to hopefully help keep things moving smoothly.
    13 SJ Evo, 14 Aurum, 14 Fatboy, 15 P.3

  33. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by J3SSEB View Post
    Oh boy! I'm excited to take it apart and mess with it I bought mine from a online store on eBay. Chances are SRAM won't warranty and I don't want to go through the store I got it from. Turn around times are probably ridiculous. Should have stuck with my 2x10
    Just an FYI, I had SRAM warranty mine through my LBS and they actually sent the new derailleur before getting the old one back. The whole process took about a week. The new derailleur clunks a bit, but far less than the old one, so I've just left it alone since I can't feel it while riding.

  34. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    Just an FYI, I had SRAM warranty mine through my LBS and they actually sent the new derailleur before getting the old one back. The whole process took about a week. The new derailleur clunks a bit, but far less than the old one, so I've just left it alone since I can't feel it while riding.
    if i was a SRAM shareholder, i'd be majorly angered how they waste money and good name on this. Somebody at SRAM should clearly be fired. The least they could have done is to release a service manual specifically to fix this issue and making it not lose warranty. Very naive and dumb.

  35. #85
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    What are you guys using besides a T-55 to loosed the clutch screw? Do I have to go out a buy a T-55?
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  36. #86
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    large allen wrench. i don't recall for sure, but i want to say it was a 8mm or 10mm

  37. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodoljake View Post
    large allen wrench. i don't recall for sure, but i want to say it was a 8mm or 10mm
    A 8mm Allen will work.

    I took my T55 off, loosened the 3/4 mm Allen's, greased everything and then tightened the 3/4 back up and put it all back together. Now I have no tension on the Derail. I have tightened everything back as tight as it will go and nothing.

    Not sure where to go from here. What a POS.

  38. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey44 View Post
    A 8mm Allen will work.

    I took my T55 off, loosened the 3/4 mm Allen's, greased everything and then tightened the 3/4 back up and put it all back together. Now I have no tension on the Derail. I have tightened everything back as tight as it will go and nothing.

    Not sure where to go from here. What a POS.
    i'd guess you haven't gone far enough with the T55... maybe!

    did you undo and grease the clutch too? (2 parts afaik) could be there's too much grease in it?

    undo it again and put it back again, must work

  39. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey44 View Post
    A 8mm Allen will work.

    I took my T55 off, loosened the 3/4 mm Allen's, greased everything and then tightened the 3/4 back up and put it all back together. Now I have no tension on the Derail. I have tightened everything back as tight as it will go and nothing.

    Not sure where to go from here. What a POS.
    actually this also sounds like you lost tension on the spring and you haven't re-tension/re-loaded it by one rotation

  40. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    actually this also sounds like you lost tension on the spring and you haven't re-tension/re-loaded it by one rotation
    Hmmm, could you explain?

  41. #91
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Hmmm, could you explain?
    too bad something happened with this forum and the old pictures aren't displaying. anyway check my older post (it did contain some very good pictures initially - i hope they come back) - XX1 knocking/clunking

  42. #92
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    Think I figured out that the 55mm Torx is simply a plastic cap that supports and locks the inner 4mm hex shaft. That 4mm shaft must apply the resistance for the arm because I backed it out 1/4 turn, it released the knocking/clunking arm and is now quite smooth. The 55mm torx cap I believe is what locks the 4m in place.
    What do you think, and have you tried that adjustment, w/o removing everything and re-greasing, and did that work for you?

  43. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    Think I figured out that the 55mm Torx is simply a plastic cap that supports and locks the inner 4mm hex shaft. That 4mm shaft must apply the resistance for the arm because I backed it out 1/4 turn, it released the knocking/clunking arm and is now quite smooth. The 55mm torx cap I believe is what locks the 4m in place.
    What do you think, and have you tried that adjustment, w/o removing everything and re-greasing, and did that work for you?
    it's most likely like you are saying (and another person here had pointed out) - I did this some time ago and don't exactly remember if it's the T55 or the screw(s) you gain access to by removing the T55 - but basically just lowering the clutch pressure should fix this in most cases.

  44. #94
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    it's most likely like you are saying (and another person here had pointed out) - I did this some time ago and don't exactly remember if it's the T55 or the screw(s) you gain access to by removing the T55 - but basically just lowering the clutch pressure should fix this in most cases.
    I have the same issue with xx1 and sb66 carbon. Will check first with the dealer if SRAM France has a replacement for this.

    If not, will ask the dealer to do the grease trick.

    Gerome.

  45. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by french_yeti View Post
    If not, will ask the dealer to do the grease trick.

    Gerome.
    I don't believe you have to go to the trouble of complete dis-assembly, just remove the 55mm torx threaded cap and then turn the 4mm hex a 1/4 turn or so to the left, or just enough to loosen the stick-slip feel of the arm. Then replace the 55mm torx to a "snug" fit to retain the position of the 4mm hex. Careful, the 55mm cap is a fine threaded plastic so cross-threading is a definite possibility.

  46. #96
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    Type 2 Clutch Overhaul

    Here's a link to an article on servicing the Type 2 clutch that may help some people out. Even if you're not keen to fully disassemble it yourself, it'll give you a good idea of what's inside.
    I did this to my XX1 derailleur around six months ago and haven't heard anything from it since - Slick Honey or Slickolium seems to do a really good job.

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia

  47. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHwick View Post
    Here's a link to an article on servicing the Type 2 clutch

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia
    Outstanding...thanks!

  48. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by JHwick View Post
    Here's a link to an article on servicing the Type 2 clutch that may help some people out. Even if you're not keen to fully disassemble it yourself, it'll give you a good idea of what's inside.
    I did this to my XX1 derailleur around six months ago and haven't heard anything from it since - Slick Honey or Slickolium seems to do a really good job.

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia
    Thanks, to be kept in my favorites, once I hear back from SRAM I might definitively use it !

    G

  49. #99
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    I warrantied mine and the new one doesn't have anywhere near the tension as my old one. I can actually move this one very easily vs. really having to pull on my first one.

    No pops, clunks or pings after 5 rides so far and the chain is staying on and no slap. I wonder if they changed how they are doing the tension?

  50. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey44 View Post
    I warrantied mine and the new one doesn't have anywhere near the tension as my old one. I can actually move this one very easily vs. really having to pull on my first one.

    No pops, clunks or pings after 5 rides so far and the chain is staying on and no slap. I wonder if they changed how they are doing the tension?
    From what's been suggested above the variability in all of this, it may just be someone in the factory tightening the 4mm too tight on certain ones. Perhaps you just got one that was tensioned properly.
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