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  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    ...Basically, the rep said that the knocking should get better once I break in the derailleur, but that it is also "a function of the Type 2 derailleur."...
    My experience is that it only gets worse with time, plus the extra strain put on the derailleur due to the clutch not working smoothly actually wears the derailleur much faster. Mine started to squeak also on other places than the clutch joint, due to the extreme force the jammed clutch was exerting on it during rear suspension flexing.

    It's also possible that all you need to do is to rotate the T55 (freely accessible under a non-glued removable plastic cover; but itself glued with a lock-tite) just a few degrees CCW, to make the clutch work with less resistance, as I reckon mine was way overtightened, and that may have been the cause of it all. If you remove the T55, you can also put some oil in, without removing the derailleur from the bike, or separating the cage at all. Whether this voids the warranty is another matter entirely.

    Good luck.

  2. #27
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    My knocking hasnt changed one bit. I tried adding a link and it did nothing. THis weekend I'm going to remove the T55, grease it and see if that helps.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
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  3. #28
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    I greased mine and so much better. Hopefully it will stay that way. Really disappointed in SRAM. I called to get the problem fixed after a couple of rides and they said take it to a dealer. I tried to buy the kit from my dealer, but they could not get it for 30 days so I bought it online. I did not feel right taking it to the dealer to get a warranty when Sram could have sent me the part.

  4. #29
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    i got mine all apart, greased everything but how do you retension the spring? I tried to hold it all together but the spring shot out and now im not sure what to do.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
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  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    i got mine all apart, greased everything but how do you retension the spring? I tried to hold it all together but the spring shot out and now im not sure what to do.
    When I did the work on mine I left it on the bike.

    Pull derailleur cage down and lock with pin.
    Remove wheel.
    Remove stop bolt on derailleur cage.(cylindrical bolt with allen head to let jockey unwind)
    Release cage and let unwind (be careful under pressure/ left chain on)
    Remove cap and T55 bolt.
    Remove cage bolt by using 4mm allen one on cage side and one on clutch side.
    Hang cage with chain on wire from chain stay to keep out of way (don't change rotation)
    Remove cage plate, spring, clutch clean and grease.
    Install clutch, spring, cage plate and then cage from the wire, install bolt and tighten.
    Wind clutch up and lock with pin and install lock bolt (lock pin holds cage)
    Unlock cage.
    Install T55 and set tension by moving the cage to feel resistance.
    Put cap back on.
    Install wheel and adjust derailleur.
    Last edited by dlennard; 04-12-2013 at 03:35 PM.

  6. #31
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    The part I dont quite get is
    "Wind clutch up and lock with pin and install lock bolt"

    Is this what tightens the spring? Right now I have it all back together without the T55 in and the cage just swings around loose with no tension at all.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
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  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    The part I dont quite get is
    "Wind clutch up and lock with pin and install lock bolt"

    Is this what tightens the spring? Right now I have it all back together without the T55 in and the cage just swings around loose with no tension at all.
    I believe you have to preload the spring once, meaning get the spring in the grooves for it and spin around the jockey/cage. It's a pain in the ass, but it's doable.

    When I did this, the wheel was off the bike and the jockey/cage was apart from the rest of the derailleur, and the chain was off the derailleur as well. I reinstalled jockey/cage with the 3mm bolt just enough to keep things from flying apart before winding up the spring (that helps keep the parts in place until you tighten down the bolt). Once you spin around the jockey/cage so that the little cylindrical part goes past the groove in the upper part of the derailleur, tighten down the 3/4mm bolts. I got someone to help me tighten down the bolt so I could focus on keeping the spring preloaded...Sorry, wish I knew what all the parts were called.

    For what it's worth, I opened up the derailleur and lubed up everything as suggested, but the knocking, while it goes away for a bit, comes back fairly quickly. It seems like the bolts tighten as the derailleur moves. It also seemed like just loosening the 3 and 4mm bolts and the T55 a bit is what made the derailleur stop making noise more so than putting oil in it. Also, I used a sewing needle to pry off the plastic cap that covers the T55, which kept the part intact.
    Last edited by LowLow; 04-12-2013 at 11:21 AM.

  8. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    I believe you have to preload the spring once, meaning get the spring in the grooves for it and spin around the jockey/cage. It's a pain in the ass, but it's doable.

    When I did this, the wheel was off the bike and the jockey/cage was apart from the rest of the derailleur, and the chain was off the derailleur as well. I reinstalled jockey/cage with the 3mm bolt just enough to keep things from flying apart before winding up the spring (that helps keep the parts in place until you tighten down the bolt). Once you spin around the jockey/cage so that the little cylindrical part goes past the groove in the upper part of the derailleur, tighten down the 3/4mm bolts. I got someone to help me tighten down the bolt so I could focus on keeping the spring preloaded...Sorry, wish I knew what all the parts were called.

    For what it's worth, I opened up the derailleur and lubed up everything as suggested, but the knocking, while it goes away for a bit, comes back fairly quickly. It seems like the bolts tighten as the derailleur moves. It also seemed like just loosening the 3 and 4mm bolts and the T55 a bit is what made the derailleur stop making noise more so than putting oil in it. Also, I used a sewing needle to pry off the plastic cap that covers the T55, which kept the part intact.
    Yes you have to wind up the jockey. The bolt in the jockey I was talking about taking out is what you are calling the cylindrical part which screws into the jockey to keep the jockey from spinning around. The way I did it was to use the jockey lock to hold the jockey while removing the stop bolt cylindrical then unwinding the jockey. Then take everything apart grease and put back together. After you have it back together wind up the jockey and use the lock to hold it while you put the stop bolt cylindrical back in. It is very easy using the lock to hold the jockey while it is under load. I think the part you are missing is removing the stop bolt cylindrical on the jockey to let it unwind and wind.

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    The part I dont quite get is
    "Wind clutch up and lock with pin and install lock bolt"

    Is this what tightens the spring? Right now I have it all back together without the T55 in and the cage just swings around loose with no tension at all.
    You need to take out the jockey stop bolt which is a small looking cylindrical bolt with a allen head and then wind up the jockey and lock it with the lock button and then put the stop bolt back in then release the lock. The spring does go in a slot on the derailleur and in a hole on the jockey plate.

  10. #35
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    Ever since I heard of this clutch design a while ago I wondered how the heck they would address chain growth issues. Anyone with issues on a HT? It just seems like someone in some department would have seen this coming..I did and I'm a plumber..
    lean forward

  11. #36
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    Thank you! Now to see if I can get it back together!
    2013 Stumpy Evo
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  12. #37
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    I took my bike to my LBS and it was a snap to get it back together. I removed the jockey stop bolt, got the spring into place and we wound it up basically 1 full rotation. tightened everything up and set the t55 bolt close to where it was stock. The knocking is gone now and shifting does feel a little crisper. Not sure how long it will last, but now that I know what to do i dont mind servicing the parts on a regular basis. Here in the PNW we do a lot of wet/muddy rides, so every 3-4 months i tear down my bike and clear/grease it all anyway.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
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  13. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    ...although putting the spring back and preloading it with one rotation was quite an exercise...
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    ...got the spring into place and we wound it up basically 1 full rotation...
    just saying, maybe you did not notice my post.

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by ypocat View Post
    just saying, maybe you did not notice my post.
    your post was spot on. For anyone with knocking noise i would just remove the t55, add a little grease and then tighten the t55 to a point where the knock is gone but the clutch engages. Even just backing off the t55 a tad might be the best solution.

    Thanks to everyone who was willing to mess with a $300+ bike part and post up info to the rest of us!
    2013 Stumpy Evo
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  15. #40
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    I know it's only been a couple of weeks for some of you guys, but how is the FIX working out. I'm thinking of getting a clutch derailleur, but I'm on the fence with brands. I currently have a new XO 10spd system and would like to keep my shifters, but will jump ship if I have to.

  16. #41
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    So I've helped quite a few people "cure" the clunk. We have been removing the t55, adding a little grease and then loosening the 3mm and 4mm bolts until you get the desired spot between no tension and clunking. I dont think taking it all the way apart is really needed.

    I have noticed that while the 3mm stays in place (outside derailleur), the 4mm (under t55) seems to move a little. I suspect that over time that bolt is tightening and adding too much resistance which causes the clunk. I may try adding a washer to see if that will help keep the bolt from self-tightening.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
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  17. #42
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    So it sounds like your taking a tiny bit of resistance out of the system. Have you tried adding lock tight to that 4mm bolt. I've never had an opportunity to play with Srams of Shimano's derailleur. After you've reached the sweet spot how much tension is still in the system. My goal is to remove my MRP Micro chain guide and add a clutch derailleur in it's place. The chain guide does a great job of eliminating some of chain slap, but I find the roller to be noisy.

  18. #43
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    You basically can tighten and loosen that 4mm to any amount you want. I have been backing it off until it is silent when you pull the chain up toward the chainstay. The suspensions feels smoother, the noise and gone and I have had any chain slap issues so it still ahve plenty of tension to keep the chain under control. That's without any sort of guide either.
    2013 Stumpy Evo
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  19. #44
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    Thanks for the tips...I'll give it a try.

  20. #45
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    No issues on my HT thus far. Anybody out there running into this on their HT?

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by sammypants View Post
    No issues on my HT thus far. Anybody out there running into this on their HT?
    I will be after reading this thread. I was saving the group for a trail 29er FS, but not anymore!
    2 wheels == True

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamenstall View Post
    I know it's only been a couple of weeks for some of you guys, but how is the FIX working out. I'm thinking of getting a clutch derailleur, but I'm on the fence with brands. I currently have a new XO 10spd system and would like to keep my shifters, but will jump ship if I have to.
    The noise on mine came back shortly after the "fix," I think because (as Mr. Lynch noted) the bolt tightens over time. I really don't notice the noise going dh, and only some times notice it while climbing, so I'm just go leave good enough alone. I still think the system is pretty awesome and would get it again.

  23. #48
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    if someone can shot a video the next time they grease one of these derailleurs that would be greatly appreciated. i want to grease mine up, but i having a bit of difficulty following along how to do it without a video.

  24. #49
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    I am having the creak on a hard tail. See pick below. The clunk I think is normal. I would not agree that the creak is normal.
    Watch this video. This is exactly what mine is doing...:

    XX1 knocking/clunking-xx1-problem.jpg

  25. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy0 View Post
    I am having the creak on a hard tail. See pick below. The clunk I think is normal. I would not agree that the creak is normal.
    I had the exact same creek. A couple drops of nanolube (I'm sure any good lube would do), and it's been quite for the past 5 rides.

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