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  1. #101
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    I found it wil sometimes tighten from use so you just pop off the t55 and give the 4mm a 1/4 turn back.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  2. #102
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    Problem solved! Sold my XX1.
    The unexamined life is not worth living - Socrates
    Bearded Women Racing

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by J3SSEB View Post
    Problem solved! Sold my XX1.
    What are you replacing it with? 1X10 XTR Trail?

  4. #104
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplemind View Post
    What are you replacing it with? 1X10 XTR Trail?
    Haven't looked at that one yet. Just thinking about going back to 2x10.
    The unexamined life is not worth living - Socrates
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  5. #105
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    I would never consider going back to a double chain ring after using the XX1. I am done dropping chains. I will leave the double for my road bike.

  6. #106
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    I hear you on that. I converted my Enduro Evo to 1x with a Raceface wide/narrow chainring. I will never go back to 2x or 3x.
    14 Aurum, 16 Fuse, 17 T130

  7. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by J3SSEB View Post
    Problem solved! Sold my XX1.
    I have just about had it with my XX1 setup. The derailleur creaks and clunks like crazy. I'm thinking about using the XX1 crankset with a 10sp XTR M986 derailleur, shifter and chain.

  8. #108
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    eh? just back of the tension in the clutch mechanism and problem solved.....
    Going back to a front derailleur over the simplicity of a well setup 1x11 system seems erm, backward. Take it to a dealer and have it setup right if you can't dial it in.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by JNG View Post
    I have just about had it with my XX1 setup. The derailleur creaks and clunks like crazy. I'm thinking about using the XX1 crankset with a 10sp XTR M986 derailleur, shifter and chain.
    Take it to a LBS, they will likely warranty it. That's what I did, and it's been fine since.

  10. #110
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    Crap, now the new one is popping and clunking...It doesn't really feel tight like the last one did but I will go through it again. Wow...worked properly for 2 months...
    Quote Originally Posted by Bailey44 View Post
    I warrantied mine and the new one doesn't have anywhere near the tension as my old one. I can actually move this one very easily vs. really having to pull on my first one.

    No pops, clunks or pings after 5 rides so far and the chain is staying on and no slap. I wonder if they changed how they are doing the tension?

  11. #111
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    I have the same klunking on my XX1. I thought I had a rear suspension issue as it was happening as the suspension cycled. I can almost feel it through to my seat. I don't really hear I too much, it's more the reverberation through the frame. I was hoping a few thousand cycles of the clutch and it would go away. Only have about 6 good rides on it so far. It is making me a bit mental so I may need to try something.

  12. #112
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    Quote Originally Posted by Devin's Dad View Post
    I have the same klunking on my XX1.
    Yep, same as me. I had mine warranted and now all is well. Take it to you LBS and SRAM will most likely send a replacement.

  13. #113
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    FYI... I took he rd apart and greased it. The noise went away but 3 months and almost 900 miles later, the rd was sticky again. Not much noise but the suspension wasn't smooth so I had to regrease it. Suspension is now smooth with zero noise.

  14. #114
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    I've come to the conclusion that it's just a noisy drivetrain at this point. The rear derailleur and I also think the cassette creaks and pops. The lower gear I am in and the more toque applied, particularly climbing its just noisy and creaky. A big cleaning and lubing helps, but it always comes back.

    But I'm living with it as I just dig the 1 x 11 and I've always been a twist shift guy.

    If I had it to do over, I would modify a 2 x 10 I suspect with one of the low gear cogs out there and go 1 x 10
    "The thing is, Bob, it's not that I'm lazy, it's that I just don't care."

  15. #115
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    I have a New Jet 9 RDO whit XX1, i ride my bike for 3 months, and im very disappointed with my XX1, i have a terrible sound when i climb !!!!

  16. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by juanmamtb View Post
    I have a New Jet 9 RDO whit XX1, i ride my bike for 3 months, and im very disappointed with my XX1, i have a terrible sound when i climb !!!!
    All l can say is take it to LBS and get it warranted.

  17. #117
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    i think i need to unsubscribe to this thread. it is just doom and gloom. So you might ask why i am watching it? well because i too had some creaking in the rear derailleur early on. i followed some advice to loosen the tension and grease the clutch and it has been fantastic ever since. well over 1000 miles since then. in total i have three bikes all with xx1 and i could not be happier. i wish you all the same turn around i had and nothing but happy riding.

  18. #118
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    I have a 1 year old XX1 system on my hardtail and it has been flawless.

    However, I just built a new full suspension 29er with XX1 and this one will have a pop once in a while under heavy torque load. Only been on two rides so far and on the second ride it did the pop less often but still did it. I'm wondering if I should add a link to the chain as the the RD seems to be under a bit more tension than on my hardtail. I'm guessing it has to do with the movement of the suspension, gear position, and how hard I'm mashing the pedals but I can't be sure what is causing the pop, is it the cassette, derailleur, chain... Just not sure.

    UPDATE: I just came back from a ride and checked the derailleur, sure enough it's got the dreaded creak problem. I will look into greasing it as discussed earlier in this thread. Thanks guys for offering up a fix, otherwise I will be seeing if I can get it replaced under warranty.

    UPDATE #2: Spoke with the online seller I purchased my XX1 R/D from and they are willing to do an exchange for me and cross ship a replacement R/D when I ship them the one I have. Will report what I find when I get the replacement.

    UPDATE #3: Received replacement R/D under warranty from bike shop, installed in on bike, creaking is gone. Hopefully it does not come back.
    Last edited by Epic_Dude; 04-25-2014 at 05:46 AM.

  19. #119
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  20. #120
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    Praise be to the glory of this thread! I was starting to pull my hair out with the horrendous creaking/clunking/popping noise from my dream ride. I thought I had a fragged bb30...Nope. Thought my chain ring spacing from CL was way off...Nope. Perfect 49mm. B-Screw adjustment was in fact off. Set to 13mm and we'll see if that helps with some of the chain noise. However I just went into the garage and wiggled the RD and sure enough...CRREEEEK! Source discovered. I will pull apart tomorrow. Thanks MTBR!
    Santa Fe, NM

  21. #121
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    XX1 knocking/clunking

    I had to lube the casstte twice within twenty rides. The second time I really torqued the lock nut. I hear an occasional pop which is not too annoying.


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  22. #122
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    There is an excellent article with pic about how to fix this problem at SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia.

    If you want to use a xx pf30 crankarm with a BCD 120/80 mm, 4 bolt, what chainring can you use in the 80 position? I mean what manufacture makes a say 32 tooth with a 80 bcd, 4 bolt wide/narrow?

    Would hate to drop another $300 for a crankarm.

  23. #123
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    Just opened up my brand new XO1 derailleur to grease the cage pivot bearing. It was close to bone dry and the cage had a huge amount of spring tension, almost thought it was seized at first.

    Removed the bearing and greased with park tool polylube 1000. Reinstalled and the cage moves much more easily and smoother, I think this is a must do for everyone. Only issue I had was I broke the dust cap which covers the huge torq screw, but looks okay without it.

  24. #124
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    Just found this. Might be the solution:

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia

    Hope it works for you.

  25. #125
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    Re: XX1 knocking/clunking

    Quote Originally Posted by Phread View Post
    Just found this. Might be the solution:

    SRAM Type 2 Overhaul | Bicycling Australia

    Hope it works for you.
    It's a good manual, it worked for me on my xo.

  26. #126
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    Here is my experience with XX1. I have owned a XX1 drivetrain since late october of 2012. I first had the drivetrain on a Intense Carbine and it is now on a Intense T275. My issues have only been with the cassette and chainring's durability. The system worked great for the first 600 miles as long as I kept it clean. It always knocks, grinds and pops when the chainring has dirt build up around the teeth. So I clean the drivetrain nearly every ride. I changed the chain at .60 on the Park Tool gauge and immediately had issues with skipping in the 36T and 42T cogs and popping and grinding on the 32T chainring. I contacted Sram and was told that the cassette should last longer than 600 miles. Sram sent me a new cassette and I returned the used one. They also threw in a new chain and 30T chainring. I was very impressed with Sram for the fantastic customer service and the fact that they sent me over $600 worth of new parts. They also send you new parts and ask that you return the old stuff in the pre-paid shipping packaging so that you can continue to ride until the new stuff arrives. I have always been a Shimano guy but this has made me very happy to be on Sram stuff and Shimano doesn't seem to realize that a big group of riders wants to be on a 1X system. Anyway, after receiving the new chain, chainring and cassette, I changed out the parts and had a completely quiet drivetrain once again. Two weeks ago I checked the chain on the Park Tool gauge and it was at .45 with 480 miles on this chain. I happened to have a new XX1 chain on hand so I changed it and to my surprise, I had skipping in the 42T cog and grinding and popping on the 30T chainring. I called Sram and again they sent me a new cassette and chain. I am a 190 lbs. rider that climbs on average 1800 ft. vertical on most rides and then descends. I dont think that what I ride would cause extreme wear on the drivetrain. I also am more than just anal about keeping my drivetrain clean. I like a quiet bike so I take a brush and to all pulleys, chainring and cassette before almost every ride. I think I was getting at least 1500 miles out of the past Shimano cassettes that I have owned with less maintenance. I dont really have a issue with the durability of the chainrings due to it being the only chainring on the bike but the $425 cassette is a whole other issue. I guess as long as they warranty the cassette, I will stay on XX1.

  27. #127
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    Which chain lube are you using bear?

  28. #128
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    I've used Pro-link and White Lightning. I would like to know what lube would reduce the most friction.

  29. #129
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    quick question, how hard is it to turn the T55 torx on the clutch? Loosened mine a little today to see if it changes the noise before re-greasing and it un-did really, really easily. Not sure its even got loctite on it!

  30. #130
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    I have a type 2 xo that is 2 years old. Clunked from day 1 until now. I can only notice it when I want to notice it. Otherwise, it has been bombproof together with my 1x10 setup.

  31. #131
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    self tightening

    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Lynch View Post
    So I've helped quite a few people "cure" the clunk. We have been removing the t55, adding a little grease and then loosening the 3mm and 4mm bolts until you get the desired spot between no tension and clunking. I dont think taking it all the way apart is really needed.

    I have noticed that while the 3mm stays in place (outside derailleur), the 4mm (under t55) seems to move a little. I suspect that over time that bolt is tightening and adding too much resistance which causes the clunk. I may try adding a washer to see if that will help keep the bolt from self-tightening.
    The 3mm bolt screws into the 4mm, they screw together. I understand that leaving these not quite tight may reduce load on the bearing, but it also leaves the cage loose, it will have side to side play, which seems not so good for shifting performance or proper alignment with the cassette. I think the 3mm and 4mm have to be snugged up tight, just until they bottom on each other. If you leave them slightly loose they seem to self tighten as the cage moves back and forth under normal shifting. I am still not sure if loosening the T55 removes any tension from the clutch. I am interested in your adding a washer idea. Any luck with that?

  32. #132
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    Hey all, wanted to add some info to this issue. I apologize if it's already mentioned but I don't have time to read the full thread.

    Anyway, I recently did the full clutch disassembly and regressing to solve the type 2 creak (X01 derailleur). Removed cleaned and greased all the clutch parts and the spring on the back side. I ended up doing the job like 5 times as it kept creaking (and 1 was because I oriented the roller clutch mechanism incorrectly). Afterwards it still creaked, drove me crazy.

    After messing with it and trying to see exactly where it was coming from I finally identified that it was the interface between the derailleur mounting bolt and where it goes through the upper part of the derailleur body. I removed it and dripped a bunch of triflow on both sides. The mounting bolt is silver and the body is obviously black. I spun the bolt to work the triflow in as good as possible. Once back together it's basically eliminated all the creaking.

    So while this issue may not be the situation for everyone it's worth looking at, especially if you notice your creaking when you move the derailleur side to side.

  33. #133
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    Mine started knocking after 500 miles. Went through some wet stuff, crossing some creeks, on my last ride. I'm assuming it starts to knock due to the lubrication being washed away. Haven't hosed down the bike since I got it.
    Last edited by Varaxis; 01-18-2015 at 08:25 PM.

  34. #134
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    Dear all, would like to share some ideas.

    First off all with the one way bearing don't just use normal grease as this will make it slip and polish the barrel where its supposed to grip. When replacing the oneway bearing always replace the barrel that it grips too since it also wears out.
    As for greasing the One Way the best product to use is Radio Control Cars Ball Differential Silicone grease, something similar to the below
    MIP Silicone Diff Grease Gel Lube #1006
    This is not a normal silicone grease but a type of mixture to lubricate and create grip at the same time.

    Now some help, as i did tighten the 3mm & 4mm screw i noticed like Mr. Lynch said that it cretes tension on the mechanisim, infact before i read the following post i thought i lost some sort of shim in between the parts. Is this right (should it help to dampen a bit the spring?) or should it be silky smooth?

    Thanks everyone

    Regards

    Ramon

  35. #135
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    Has anybody tried the XX1 type 2.1 vs the type 2? Just wondering if there's any improvement when it comes to noise.

  36. #136
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    Dear all, anyone can kindly advise the torque range that must be used in order to tighten the two screws that hold the spring and clutch.

    Thanks

  37. #137
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    Did a complete rebuild of the type 2.0 XX1 RD and the clicking went away for about 30 mins of riding then came back, guess it's time to warranty for the Type 2.1!

  38. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by speed6 View Post
    Dear all, would like to share some ideas.

    First off all with the one way bearing don't just use normal grease as this will make it slip and polish the barrel where its supposed to grip. When replacing the oneway bearing always replace the barrel that it grips too since it also wears out.
    As for greasing the One Way the best product to use is Radio Control Cars Ball Differential Silicone grease, something similar to the below
    MIP Silicone Diff Grease Gel Lube #1006
    This is not a normal silicone grease but a type of mixture to lubricate and create grip at the same time.

    Now some help, as i did tighten the 3mm & 4mm screw i noticed like Mr. Lynch said that it cretes tension on the mechanisim, infact before i read the following post i thought i lost some sort of shim in between the parts. Is this right (should it help to dampen a bit the spring?) or should it be silky smooth?

    Thanks everyone

    Regards

    Ramon
    I had this situation exactly, tried the method mentioned above! All creaking gone!

  39. #139
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    Do you guys get this sound when pedaling?

    I recorded a video of my problem https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g5_OhXcbviA&app=desktop

    is this the same clutch problem as you describe? Brand new bike!

  40. #140
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    New question here.

    @ypocat

    Hello everyone!

    I have a small question. I found very useful your guide, but I forgot how to orient the needle bearing to allow the choir clutch operation.

    NOTE
    model: SRAM X9 Type 2.0


    Can you help me?!
    Thanks so much...

  41. #141
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    I guess I have the same issue...
    I pried open the plastic cover and easily opened the T55, but I cannot remove it.
    i.e after it came out a few millimeters, it is just freely rotating without advancing out (if it makes sense)
    Please advise.

    TIA
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  42. #142
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyElite2010 View Post
    I guess I have the same issue...
    I pried open the plastic cover and easily opened the T55, but I cannot remove it.
    i.e after it came out a few millimeters, it is just freely rotating without advancing out (if it makes sense)
    Please advise.

    TIA
    There is an o-ring on the inside edge. Once you fully unscrew it just pry it out as the o-ring is holding it in place.

  43. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by IntenseMack10 View Post
    There is an o-ring on the inside edge. Once you fully unscrew it just pry it out as the o-ring is holding it in place.
    Thank you, I will give it a try.
    So, no need to remove any other parts, other than the plastic cover, the T55 and the O ring in order to access the area ?
    Once I do that, can I just grease the inside ?
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  44. #144
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyElite2010 View Post
    Thank you, I will give it a try.
    So, no need to remove any other parts, other than the plastic cover, the T55 and the O ring in order to access the area ?
    Once I do that, can I just grease the inside ?
    Well, if you're looking to fully lube the assembly, you need to completely disassemble it so there is more to take apart.

    However, in the years that I've had mine, I determined that the clutch isn't really where it was creaking and having a bunch of grease in there actually prevents the roller bearing clutch from doing its job (as well). So I pulled mine apart and completely cleaned all the grease out with alcohol. I make sure to use some tri-flow on the mounting bolt where it passes through the derailleur body, as is shown in post #59.

  45. #145
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    Thanks
    My RD start making clunking noises all of a sudden when on the stand and riding.
    The knocking noise is happening on the 8 highest gear, but not on the lowest 3.
    I tried everything I know including adjusting the limit screws, B tension, barrel adjuster etc.. to no avail.
    Visually all looks good , clean
    I even tried a different chain with less links.
    It seems to me like a clutch issue, otherwise I cant imagine what it is...
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  46. #146
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    Here is the video demonstrating the hard knocking.




    And for reference this is when the chain is on the 3 lowest gears (largest cogs)
    It is quiet as can be, other than the occasional engagement of the rear hub.

    https://youtu.be/bULQO9K2VRE
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  47. #147
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    Did you check your hangar alignment?


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  48. #148
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    Yes.
    Gear shifting up/down is smooth - no problem there.
    The knocking just started a couple of days ago... no crash or anything.
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  49. #149
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    My m8's $8,000 nzd - Trek Slash RSL has SRAM Eagle & I could here it clunking going up the hill ^^

    Glad I've got more sense than money ;-)

    My used (6 months), new to me 2017 Giant Reign 2 - was Ninja quiet, going up the hill...

    I paid $2,800 nzd =)

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  50. #150
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    XX1 knocking/clunking

    Weird. The noise sounds like the jockey wheel is out of sync with the chain but that will make noise in any gear. It doesn't sound or look like a clutch issue to me. The cage isn't moving when you pedal so the clutch isn't moving either. Possibly a loose cassette or maybe a hanger bolt loose. If you don't have a tool to align the hanger I would say get that checked first. I know u said it is fine but if you haven't used the tool you don't know. The symptoms are of a bent or misaligned hanger.


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  51. #151
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyElite2010 View Post
    Here is the video demonstrating the hard knocking.




    And for reference this is when the chain is on the 3 lowest gears (largest cogs)
    It is quiet as can be, other than the occasional engagement of the rear hub.

    https://youtu.be/bULQO9K2VRE
    Shift down (big to little) two gears then shift up one.....eagle has a tendency to lag on the down shift....Spring not strong enough.

  52. #152
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    Quote Originally Posted by jeffscott View Post
    Shift down (big to little) two gears then shift up one.....eagle has a tendency to lag on the down shift....Spring not strong enough.
    Thanks, but no issues shifting.
    Its only when on the 8 highest gears - I shifted up/dn umpteen times and the issue is VERY consistent.

    It's 1x11 XX1 not 1x12 eagle...
    Although my Front chain wheel is the eagle one, as I find it a big improvement of the XX1 chain wheel.
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  53. #153
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikeguy0 View Post
    Weird. The noise sounds like the jockey wheel is out of sync with the chain but that will make noise in any gear. It doesn't sound or look like a clutch issue to me. The cage isn't moving when you pedal so the clutch isn't moving either. Possibly a loose cassette or maybe a hanger bolt loose. If you don't have a tool to align the hanger I would say get that checked first. I know u said it is fine but if you haven't used the tool you don't know. The symptoms are of a bent or misaligned hanger.
    Thanks.
    I will take it to my LBS, maybe they can troubleshoot it and find out the root cause.
    S.C. TB2
    Flash29C2
    Niner One9 SingleSpeed RDO fork
    Supersix Evo 1 Hi Mod D/A

  54. #154
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    Reputation: StumpyElite2010's Avatar
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    Happy Ending

    At the end, it was not the Hanger nor the derailleur...
    I have a TRS Race cassette which is made out of 2 parts that are connected to each other vie a proprietary interface
    (3 large rings are aluminum and the rest are steel)
    Something got lose at the connection in between the 2 parts of the cassette and that's where the knocking noise came from.
    That's also the reason why it was quiet when the chain was on the lowest 3 gears...
    Last edited by StumpyElite2010; 06-28-2017 at 11:54 PM.
    S.C. TB2
    Flash29C2
    Niner One9 SingleSpeed RDO fork
    Supersix Evo 1 Hi Mod D/A

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