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  1. #1
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    XX1 Crankset installation question

    I'm installing a XX1 crankset on a Santa Cruz Highball carbon with Chris King BB (GXP version of everything). I am trying to tighten down the non-driveside crankarm and there seems to be way too large of a gap between the BB and the crankarm. Driveside looks great, but the non-drive has about a centimeter gap when I hit the torque spec (~50nm).

    What am I doing wrong? I've never installed a SRAM crankset before and it's replacing a Shimano crankset. I noticed that the crankset cap on the non-driveside says to tighten with an 8mm, but there's also a notation for a 10mm (for loosening?).

    Help!

  2. #2
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    Okay, so apparently I need to add all these adapters/spacers in for the King BB?
    http://chrisking.com/files/upload/bo...structions.pdf

    Should that fix my problem?

    Thanks.

  3. #3
    Carbon & Ti rule
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    Quote Originally Posted by mazafakka View Post
    I'm installing a XX1 crankset on a Santa Cruz Highball carbon with Chris King BB (GXP version of everything). I am trying to tighten down the non-driveside crankarm and there seems to be way too large of a gap between the BB and the crankarm. Driveside looks great, but the non-drive has about a centimeter gap when I hit the torque spec (~50nm).

    What am I doing wrong? I've never installed a SRAM crankset before and it's replacing a Shimano crankset. I noticed that the crankset cap on the non-driveside says to tighten with an 8mm, but there's also a notation for a 10mm (for loosening?).

    Help!
    Did you fit a spacer in the LH bearing so you can run a GXP crank with the CK BB ?

    The bearing on a GXP BB is wider on the LH side so the shaft locks on it.

  4. #4
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    I think I need to fit all the additional spacers that were supplied by King, but it's not all that clear, honestly, from the King manual.... Looking into it now.... Thanks for the input.

  5. #5
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    I did get this figured out - I had to install the "fit kit" spacer set that was included with the CK BB. However, I'm not really sure the chainline is correct now that I have an extra ~3-4mm on the driveside. With the 156Q cranks, they should be pretty narrow and I feel like they might not be as narrow as they could be.... Anyone have thoughts on this?

  6. #6
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    The XX1 install is finished, but I still have some concerns about the chainline. Using the CK BB, I had to install several (three) 1mm spacers plus a spring/washer and another spacer on the non-driveside. The crankset is a 156Q and it really doesn't seem very narrow. Check out the attached photos.

    I called Chris King and the tech was very nice, but didn't know much about GXP BBs. It seems to me that with a SRAM BB, since I wouldn't need the spacers, the chainline would be narrower. I know the CK BB cups are narrower than the SRAM ones, but I don't think the difference is 5mm+ or whatever.

    In the photos, you'll see I have the Raceface rubber crank boots on the crank arms, but I still have 8-9mm between the crank arms and the chainstays. I tried calling SRAM, but they're not working today.

    Any input you can offer would be appreciated.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails XX1 Crankset installation question-xx1_bb_1.jpg  

    XX1 Crankset installation question-xx1_bb_2.jpg  

    XX1 Crankset installation question-xx1_bb_3.jpg  

    XX1 Crankset installation question-xx1_bb_4.jpg  

    XX1 Crankset installation question-xx1_bb_5.jpg  


  7. #7
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    looks good to me.

  8. #8
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    That is about the space I have on my 2013 Epic Marathon with 168q, looks fine to me.

  9. #9
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    If King GXP BBs work like regular SRAM GXP models, it doesn't matter if there is a gap between the DS arm and BB cup. GXP cranks have a stepped 24mm spindle and the "step" bottoms on the NDS bearing - and the spindle simply floats on the drive side bearing. The installation of washers on between the DS arm and cup could prevent the "step" from bottoming on the NDS cup - that would be a problem.
    NOAH SEARS
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    TECH QUESTIONS HERE: INFO@MRPBIKE.COM

  10. #10
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    Thanks for all the input. Along the same lines, does anyone know what the 10mm cap does? Is it some sort of extractor cap? I torqued the 8mm crankset bolt to spec, but the SRAM instructions/site don't say anything about the 10mm... Pic attached:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails XX1 Crankset installation question-photo.jpg  


  11. #11
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    pretty sure it is the extractor like Race Face uses

  12. #12
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    13Pumps is right, The 10mm bolt is what the 8mm bolt pushes against when you turn the 8mm bolt counter clock-wise which self extracts the crank. Don't mess with the 10mm bolt, it has green threadlock on it and should never be loosened.

  13. #13
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    Got it. Thanks guys

  14. #14
    www.evocycles.ca
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    I noticed from your close-up photo that you have a crank-skin on your XX1 crank. Is that specific to the XX1 or is it just s generic crank-skin that happens to fit well?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsmit View Post
    I noticed from your close-up photo that you have a crank-skin on your XX1 crank. Is that specific to the XX1 or is it just s generic crank-skin that happens to fit well?
    It comes fitted to the crank, But it is short so I added more to mine.

  16. #16
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    I figured that since they're carbon cranks they're probably going to look like hell in a few months either way, so I didn't bother adding anything beyond the RaceFace crank boots.... I was pleasantly surprised to see that SRAM included some crankskins on the cranks.

  17. #17
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    Hi,

    What about Q factor?

    Which is ok for sram xx1 crankset on a transition covert?

  18. #18
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    Wow...this setup looks really good....the only thing that I would watch for is play when pushing the crank side to side....with the GXP BB side load is okay....with a BB30 crankset, minimal side load is better for resistance. The Enduro XB-15 BB is the cure. Spins free with side load.

    Great project and you should have a sweet pedal.

  19. #19
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    Jan 27, 2013 UPDATE:

    So far, so good. The crankset and whole group is great. I have a barely audible creak when in the 10t and all my weight is on the cranks. Not a deal-killer. I probably need to check the crankset torque and/or remove and re-grease the King GXP BB. If I had to do it again, I'd probably buy a SRAM GXP BB (Blackbox or similar high-quality) instead of the King BB. I love the King stuff, but I didn't realize that I was essentially buying a standard Shimano-compatible BB with an adapter kit. Made the installation more complicated, and now there is an additional metal sleeve over the spindle that I will have to remove with force if I want to change to a standard GXP BB....

  20. #20
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    XX1 spider and ring bolt torque.

    Not any mention in the XX1 installation instructions of XX1 ring bolt and spider bolt torque. Anyone know this?
    Last edited by CarManDSL; 02-25-2013 at 11:53 AM.
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  21. #21
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    When I tried to install mine I took this 2mm allen screw almost completely out, and it still would'nt turn by hand.




    I have tightened my crankarm bolts til there was no play, but it seems like they don't spin very "freely". We have an s-works stumpjumper at the shop with a PF30 BB and it's crank arms don't spin incredibly free either but I assume this is mostly because it's brand new. Should I be worried or is this normal? Is this pre-load deal on my XX1 crankset the culprit?

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by tsmit View Post
    13Pumps is right, The 10mm bolt is what the 8mm bolt pushes against when you turn the 8mm bolt counter clock-wise which self extracts the crank. Don't mess with the 10mm bolt, it has green threadlock on it and should never be loosened.
    Maybe this is only a feature of the GXP cranks? Mine says specificly to use a 10mm.


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