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  1. #1
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    XX1 cluster stripped.

    I got 2 bikes both running xx1.So today I try to remove the cluster from my american classic wheels and the whole inside of the cluster just disintegrates.The inside of the cluster where the removal tool fits in is completely stripped.Looking at my other cluster it looks like this inner piece of the cluster where the tool fits in is made of plastic.So now I got a cluster stuck on the freebody and can't get it off.Any ideas to remove stripped cluster?What are the chances SRAM will warranty the cluster?

  2. #2
    Elitest thrill junkie
    Reputation: Jayem's Avatar
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    Take a picture.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

    You're turning black metallic.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
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    Name:  xx1.png
Views: 618
Size:  148.9 KBName:  xx1-2.png
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Size:  36.2 KB

    Photos a bit small but on my one cluster you can see the black grooves where the removal tool fits into.The other photo you can see they are gone-stripped.

  4. #4
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    So it looks like the nice guys at sram are going to warranty my cluster.My lbs was told they had a few similar issues and mine is not the first.Seems like sram are busy sending out a update to all the bike shops at the moment.From what i can see on mine it seems like the cluster almost seizes on the body.Not sure if we should put copper slip or some anti seize when putting the cluster on the body but will wait for the update and keep you guys posted.The inner part of the body is also very soft aluminium so if the cluster is too tight the inner part just strips.

  5. #5
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    Re: XX1 cluster stripped.

    I had a similar thing happen. What I found is that the cassette removal tool was bottoming out on the end cap on my Hope freehub. It looked and felt like the tool was fully set, but it wasn't.

    SRAM warranted it, but I never was able to get the damaged cassette off the free hub and had to buy a new one.

    I now remove the end cap before removing the cassette, and have had no issues since.

  6. #6
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    Read this before attempting to remove your xx1, xo1, or x1 cassette!!!

    As a public service announcement to other XX1, XO1, and X1 cassette owners, DO NOT attempt to remove your cassette unless you are 100% sure your cassette tool is FULLY seated into the cassette lock-ring. I, like others, have screwed up my lock-ring because the recommended Park FR-5 cassette tool was not completely seated into the lock-ring. The problem is that on my Industry 9 hubs, the axle cavity protrudes far enough so that the tool bottoms out and is not fully engaged with the lock-ring. I didn't realized this as and when I tried to remove the cassette, I stripped the lock-ring - this is especially sucky because that lock-ring is integrated into the cassette - not a fan of that design. It's not destroyed as only the tips of the teeth are stripped, but it could have been way worse as happened to other users (some were successful in getting the cassette warrantied as a result, but still a hassle). Some hubs allow you to remove the end of the hub cavity / hub cap so that your tool can seat properly, but not the industry nine hubs. I had to get a new cassette removal tool that is deeper so that it fully seats and doesn't bottom out on the axle cavity - I got the icetoolz xpert shimano cassettes tool (09C1) and it seems like it will work much better. I wish I had gotten the same tool but in the version without the guide pin as I hear that it's even better to secure the tool to the wheel using a qr skewer (plus the guide pin on the tool I got is meant for non-thru-axles and doesn't do much good on thru-axle cavities). My LBS uses shimano's cassette tool without issue. So there you go - heed my warning and don't kill your way too expensive cassette.

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