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  1. #1
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    XX1 Cassette install on dt swis

    I want to make sure I am not missing something. I have the xx1 drive hub for my dtswiss 240 however I see threads on the bottom and inside the casstette does this thread on? Does is get a cap on top of the cassette?

  2. #2
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    Just threads on, no cap

  3. #3
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    Hi, I tried to thread but it has teeth at bottom of cassette that fit into the hub body and wont let me spin?

  4. #4
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    I figured it out. had to insert cassette tool into cassette itself and the inner part turns. That's a new one for me.

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    thanks, I was trying to figure this out myself

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by edmpt View Post
    thanks, I was trying to figure this out myself
    Drove me nuts...

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdog100 View Post
    I figured it out. had to insert cassette tool into cassette itself and the inner part turns. That's a new one for me.
    Can you please explain what you mean by "insert cassette tool into cassette itself"?
    I have tried putting the cassette tool on the outside of cassette like you would with a normal cassette but because of the teeth being engaged it wont let me tighten the cassette down.
    Thanks

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbran805 View Post
    Can you please explain what you mean by "insert cassette tool into cassette itself"?
    I have tried putting the cassette tool on the outside of cassette like you would with a normal cassette but because of the teeth being engaged it wont let me tighten the cassette down.
    Thanks
    Ok place cassette tool into the actual cassette. The internal threads actually spin as cassette remains stationary. Just thread on and you are done

  9. #9
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    This may help....

    When I got my XX1, I had trouble getting my older Park cassette tool to seat properly in the splines of the lock ring. In order to get proper engagement between the splines of the cassette tool and the lock ring, my friend milled out a few centimeters of metal from the cassette tool, which allows it now to sit deeper on the lock ring and engage the splines properly.

    I understand the newer generation of Park & Pedros cassette tools are machined differently , but those with older tools will likely have this issues with xx1.
    “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving.”

    ― Albert Einstein

  10. #10
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    Ok thanks, I'll try to figure it out.

  11. #11
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    Just a helpful hint even though your issue is solved:

    If you didn't grease the treads/splines on your DT freehub body prior to installing your XX1 cassette, you might consider removing the cassette now, and greasing it before you ride it for the season. The threads/splines on the DT hubs are an incredibly close match, and if left ungreased, can make removing the cassette in the future extremely difficult. Enjoy!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banshee Rider View Post
    Just a helpful hint even though your issue is solved:

    If you didn't grease the treads/splines on your DT freehub body prior to installing your XX1 cassette, you might consider removing the cassette now, and greasing it before you ride it for the season. The threads/splines on the DT hubs are an incredibly close match, and if left ungreased, can make removing the cassette in the future extremely difficult. Enjoy!
    Ya good tip, mechanic at LBS told me same thing. Thanks

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Banshee Rider View Post
    Just a helpful hint even though your issue is solved:

    If you didn't grease the treads/splines on your DT freehub body prior to installing your XX1 cassette, you might consider removing the cassette now, and greasing it before you ride it for the season. The threads/splines on the DT hubs are an incredibly close match, and if left ungreased, can make removing the cassette in the future extremely difficult. Enjoy!
    Here's my cassette removal story I posted on another forum (XX1 on DT Swiss). Hope it helps someone trying it for the first time...

    "Ha, you're not the first one to encounter this "issue". I've been meaning to do a post on it for a while, but was too lazy to get around to it. Short story is, this is common...

    The long story goes something like this:

    I had the same problem with the XX1 cassette on DT Swiss 240s hub. The reason is that the spline interface which transfers torque between the cassette and the freehub body is press fit, not loose fit like on Shimano. I think SRAM went with press fit because the splines are on the largest cog only, if the fit was loose the splines on the hub and maybe on the cassette would not last very long.

    First time I was removing the cassette, with one turn of the sleeve to go the thread started skipping with a very loud clang because the largest cog was still stuck and not moving. I used a piece of wood to give it a bit of a push. When it came off I noticed that thread skipping shaved off the last turn of thread off the free hub body - was not impressed at all.

    Second time I went to remove the cassette I was counting the turns of the spanner, with the piece of wood on stand-by for the last (5th) turn. To my horror, I noticed that because the largest cog was stuck while the sleeve was turning and trying to pull it off, the whole hollow cassette dome got stretched axially by several mm's. So I quickly backed off and after a second go the cassette popped off normally.

    Third time, I was trying to give the 42t cog a push after each turn of the spanner. This time the whole fckn free hub body flew off the hub axle with the cassette attached to it, and all the star ratchet bits went into the grass...

    At that point I switched from normal teflon grease to white lithium grease, and have had no issues since. Not sure if it's because of the different grease or because of wear and tear on the cassette/freehub body from regular removal..."

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by The Squeaky Wheel View Post
    This may help....

    When I got my XX1, I had trouble getting my older Park cassette tool to seat properly in the splines of the lock ring. In order to get proper engagement between the splines of the cassette tool and the lock ring, my friend milled out a few centimeters of metal from the cassette tool, which allows it now to sit deeper on the lock ring and engage the splines properly.

    I understand the newer generation of Park & Pedros cassette tools are machined differently , but those with older tools will likely have this issues with xx1.
    centimeters

    That is a lot of machining

    I can't believe I am so bored I am trolling MTBR.
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  15. #15
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    I've run into problems installing on a 350 hub, the cassette (xx1) threads on, the splines engage and then after 2 turns it binds up like it's bottomed out on the end of the hub body. It still can rotate freely a few degrees between the splines, so it doesn't feel like it's hung up anywhere. I've installed before on a SRAM hub and it spun on smoothly. I already popped off part of the first thread trying to coax it on, now I'm contemplating my options. Both the hub body and cassette look fine, no obvious out-of -tolerance looking bits.

    Puzzled.....

  16. #16
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    Thanks for sharing this.

    My old tool doesn't seat worth a $H*% and marred some of the splines. I will be updating my lockring tool hopefully with one that has a handle as well.

    Does anyone have experience with Pedros lockring tool with XX1 cassettes?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by swagner2 View Post
    Thanks for sharing this.

    My old tool doesn't seat worth a $H*% and marred some of the splines. I will be updating my lockring tool hopefully with one that has a handle as well.

    Does anyone have experience with Pedros lockring tool with XX1 cassettes?
    What has anyone come up with ?
    I have a new Park Tool and just got done having the splines blow out before it was even bottomed out yes I lubed it and followed directions.
    Since I have to get a new Chris King XD driver and New XG-1199 cassette I don't want to have the same problem
    My LBS mechanic told me this is happening more and more but said no one has any alternative for the tool.
    ​​
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  18. #18
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    I use a Park FR5. I have a piece of allthread with a couple of fender washer and nuts. I use the allthread to hold the FR5 firmly in place when tourquing the cassette 'lock tube' during install/removal.

    Before the advent of thru axles, you'd just use the QR to hold the tool in place, or use one of the tools with the little guide on it.

    Also, some hubs will allow you to remove the endcaps with the cassette in place, which frees up more space for the cassette tool to engage. I still use the allthread even with the caps removed, though, as it's much more stable and those lock tubes aren't replaceable so far as I can tell. It's a damn expensive mistake to strip one out.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by PauLCa916 View Post
    What has anyone come up with ?
    I have a new Park Tool and just got done having the splines blow out before it was even bottomed out yes I lubed it and followed directions.
    Since I have to get a new Chris King XD driver and New XG-1199 cassette I don't want to have the same problem
    My LBS mechanic told me this is happening more and more but said no one has any alternative for the tool.
    I've been using this one on XX1 + DT Swiss 240s 142/12 with zero issues so far. It has a very large cavity compared to Park and should be able to swallow most end caps.

    09C1 Shimano CS Freewheel Tool

    The inner diameter of the cavity is 19.7mm with a depth of 18mm.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by vicrider222 View Post
    I've been using this one on XX1 + DT Swiss 240s 142/12 with zero issues so far. It has a very large cavity compared to Park and should be able to swallow most end caps.

    09C1 Shimano CS Freewheel Tool

    The inner diameter of the cavity is 19.7mm with a depth of 18mm.
    Thank You Very much vicrider222 I knew there was one that was deeper.
    I'm going to pick one up.
    My LBS called SRAM and they are going to Warranty the cassette but not my Chris King XD Driver.
    The shop is going to try to remove the broken cassette from the XD Driver I hope it work's.
    If not I have to buy another XD Driver around $200 oh well
    ​​
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    1997 Rock Hopper / Manitou TI Bulge Fork / Shimano STX-3 x 7 P.O.S.​

  21. #21
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    My XR1450 wheels have a DT Swiss 240 hubs and I use the Park Tools FR-5 cassette lockring tool with no issues. I've taken the cassette on and off a handful of time with no problems. Hard to believe there is a problem with the Chris King XD driver but maybe something is causing the cassette to not thread on correctly. Maybe a new CK XD driver would work better for you.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Epic_Dude View Post
    My XR1450 wheels have a DT Swiss 240 hubs and I use the Park Tools FR-5 cassette lockring tool with no issues. I've taken the cassette on and off a handful of time with no problems. Hard to believe there is a problem with the Chris King XD driver but maybe something is causing the cassette to not thread on correctly. Maybe a new CK XD driver would work better for you.
    This was the second time putting it back on so I'm not sure if the driver is the problem.
    SRAM told my LBS that they had a run of them that were just to tight and this has happened to others.
    I will see this week when the new cassette comes in.
    ​​
    2012 Stump Jumper Comp 29'er H.T.
    1997 Rock Hopper / Manitou TI Bulge Fork / Shimano STX-3 x 7 P.O.S.​

  23. #23
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    New cassette came old cassette came off driver new cassette slipped right on.
    Time to ride !!!!
    ​​
    2012 Stump Jumper Comp 29'er H.T.
    1997 Rock Hopper / Manitou TI Bulge Fork / Shimano STX-3 x 7 P.O.S.​

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