Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 50 of 179
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,416

    No good XX1 28t chain grinding?

    I'm feeling and hearing some grinding when I'm in the top 2 cogs (42 and 36) when mashing on the pedals. I'm pretty sure it's the front 28t chain ring. It's like I'm feeling the chain links on the chain ring teeth. I'm guessing it's the crappy chain line with it in those cogs, combined w/ the deeper teeth, and small chain ring (more chain wrap). This grinding doesn't happen when I use a 32t front ring. Anyone else seeing this?

  2. #2
    Carbon & Ti rule
    Reputation: muzzanic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    5,397
    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    I'm feeling and hearing some grinding when I'm in the top 2 cogs (42 and 36) when mashing on the pedals. I'm pretty sure it's the front 28t chain ring. It's like I'm feeling the chain links on the chain ring teeth. I'm guessing it's the crappy chain line with it in those cogs, combined w/ the deeper teeth, and small chain ring (more chain wrap). This grinding doesn't happen when I use a 32t front ring. Anyone else seeing this?
    I get it on mine with the 28 on my bike, Sounds quite bad when everything is covered in mud.

    I have just set up another bike with 28 tooth Wolf tooth on 1 of my other bikes, I must take it out & see how it goes
    Raising money, my friend broke his neck Mtbing, Please Share link. http://givealittle.co.nz/cause/elliottkeys/donations

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bailey44's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Posts
    747
    I can't say that I have this issue when using my 28t.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Bicyclelist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    452
    I had it on my 30t but looked closer and noticed a good amount of wear on my chainring, I replaced it and no more noises.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,416
    I just got a 30t and no grinding yet. My 28t doesn't look very worn...not that much mileage on it either.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    97

    XX1 28t chain grinding?

    I had that on my 30t, and it was especially bad if conditions were a bit muddy. The noise started after about 200k's, and I ended up replacing the chainring after 900k's. I'm not impressed with xx1 durability at all.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    19
    Yup, somewhere between 200-300K's it started. Both 36 and 42 under load grind away.
    The ring doesn't look very worn, but I also think it's the chain line. Don't really want to be replacing one every 4 months.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Posts
    2,679
    Old "3th world country" trick but it works great, if you chainrings are not afix to the cranks, you can rotate them "a hole" that way the tooth that "do the work" can be reflesh, hell I used to even "flip" my chainrings for even longer durability...

  9. #9
    Dab-O-Matic
    Reputation: Simplemind's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Posts
    853
    Quote Originally Posted by patineto View Post
    Old "3th world country" trick but it works great, if you chainrings are not afix to the cranks, you can rotate them "a hole" that way the tooth that "do the work" can be reflesh, hell I used to even "flip" my chainrings for even longer durability...
    Awesome, never thought of this!

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation: brentos's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1,420
    My 32 tooth lasted 1500 miles before it started grinding.

    My 30 tooth lasted 250. I flipped it around to reverse the rotation until I can secure a replacement.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    1
    I had this problem as well. I followed the instructions in the type 2 clutch adjust thread XX1 knocking/clunking and it went away. I never had any of the knocking or clunking issues described in the thread but felt that the cage had too much resistance to movement so decided to adjust it. I was surprised it eliminated the chain grinding problem I was having. Give it a try.

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation: goodoljake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    246
    i have the grinding noise and sensation on the largest few cogs myself. i run a 34t and have about 600 miles on the set up. just replaced the chain too as it broke prematurely. are you all positive it is the chainring and not the pulleys or something else? also, how can you rotate the chainring with the holes not being consistent? thanks.

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    96
    Quote Originally Posted by norman2020 View Post
    I had this problem as well. I followed the instructions in the type 2 clutch adjust thread XX1 knocking/clunking and it went away. I never had any of the knocking or clunking issues described in the thread but felt that the cage had too much resistance to movement so decided to adjust it. I was surprised it eliminated the chain grinding problem I was having. Give it a try.
    That thread is very long. Could you please point us the exact posting that describes the procedure you followed ?

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    96
    XX1 Rings can't be rotated or flipped.

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Posts
    168
    Quote Originally Posted by jarango View Post
    XX1 Rings can't be rotated or flipped.
    Maybe some are different as I turned mine(gxp xx1) around while I was waiting for a replacement and it worked fine.

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,416
    Quote Originally Posted by dlennard View Post
    Maybe some are different as I turned mine(gxp xx1) around while I was waiting for a replacement and it worked fine.
    I did the same after my 2nd 28t ring started to grind. I plan on flipping the ring back the other way when it grinds again.

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: brentos's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1,420
    Although not designed for it, XX1 rings can be flipped over without issue, I guarantee it.

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Posts
    96

    XX1 28t chain grinding?

    I have xx1 of pf30 bb. The ring can only be screwed in one particular orientation in order for then holes to match. And it cannot be flipped.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    3
    Yes, I have experienced this on two XX1 setups. I bought an S-Works Enduro in Oct 2013 and have only rode it 10 times and it is knocking. The other is also an Enduro that I had converted. They both started knocking when I changed the front Chain Ring Gear.
    I have done everything, for instance, measured the chain for wear, insured that I have the proper length of chain, adjusted the cable length, used dry chain oil, cleaned the chain, adjusted the set screw to insure proper spacing between cassette and idler pulleys. Nothing has worked.

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: CHROMAG19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Posts
    226
    Is there any way you can shim the ring in to get a better chain line?

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    3
    The S-Works came from the factory with the XX1 and the alignment looks good. The older Enduro also looks good for alignment. I had two different shops confirm the alignment. Both bikes ran silent until I changed the ring gear to a smaller size.

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    19
    I still think it's a wear issue but interesting enough, after changing lubes from pro gold to white lightening, 90 % of the noise disappeared.

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Posts
    97

    XX1 28t chain grinding?

    I've also just switched lubes recently to see if there's a difference. I was previously using Pedros Go (oil based), now I'm using Finishline PTFE (wax based). Let's see what happens

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    757
    I am having a similar issue. Chainring/chain grinding under load. I put a new chain on and it is probably worse now. I am going to put a new ring on. The old chain measures 0.5 on the parktool chain checker. Is it possible that the ring could be worn out before the chain? This is the first chain on this drivetrain and it still measures like a new one for the most part.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    757
    Quote Originally Posted by cytoe View Post
    I did the same after my 2nd 28t ring started to grind. I plan on flipping the ring back the other way when it grinds again.
    Is there any particular reason to not ALWAYS do this? Wouldn't this double the life of the ring for the most part?

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,416
    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    I am having a similar issue. Chainring/chain grinding under load. I put a new chain on and it is probably worse now. I am going to put a new ring on. The old chain measures 0.5 on the parktool chain checker. Is it possible that the ring could be worn out before the chain? This is the first chain on this drivetrain and it still measures like a new one for the most part.
    I tried the same...it's not the chain. You can flip the ring around, and this will help for a while...but the grind will return. The grind seems the worst when I don't have the chain lubed enough, or if it is really dirty.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,416
    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    Is there any particular reason to not ALWAYS do this? Wouldn't this double the life of the ring for the most part?
    I tried flipping the ring back (to the "correct" direction), and the grinding was really bad...so I'm keeping it reversed.

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    757
    I have another chainring. I guess I will try that. I don't have a good measure as to how many miles are on the ring, but it is the original drivetrain and the chain still measures fine. I have used the drivetrain about 8 months now. I would like to think it will last longer than that. I guess when I change the ring out this afternoon that will answer that question.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,416
    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    I have another chainring. I guess I will try that. I don't have a good measure as to how many miles are on the ring, but it is the original drivetrain and the chain still measures fine. I have used the drivetrain about 8 months now. I would like to think it will last longer than that. I guess when I change the ring out this afternoon that will answer that question.
    A new ring will help for a bit, but the grind will return. My current theory is the anno on the teeth helps w/ the friction. When this wears off (and we don't have a clean, lubed chain), we get the grind. Pretty sure it all has to do w/ the the narrow/wide teeth; one side of my teeth (the outboard ones) are very shinny from contact w/ the chain.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    757
    I'm using a 32, so I assume this won't happen as quickly. If this is the case, then this sucks!!!!! Do you actually feel the grind? I just starting using a Chris King Press Fit 30 BB and thought that was the culprit. I hear and feel the grind.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,416
    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    I'm using a 32, so I assume this won't happen as quickly. If this is the case, then this sucks!!!!! Do you actually feel the grind? I just starting using a Chris King Press Fit 30 BB and thought that was the culprit. I hear and feel the grind.
    I hear the 32 stays is grind free longer...make sense I guess. Unfortunately, I do feel and hear the grind. In the "old" days, this kind of grinding ment you were about to break something. Anyway, I just cleaned my chain and will try the WD-40 dry chain lube next.

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    757
    You are actually using "WD-40" as in the WD-40 that has been around forever? I have been using Demonde Tech for several years (as recommended from Niner). This grinding is unacceptable! Gotta try something different. Hopefully the new chainring will do the trick.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,416
    Quote Originally Posted by epiphreddy View Post
    You are actually using "WD-40" as in the WD-40 that has been around forever? I have been using Demonde Tech for several years (as recommended from Niner). This grinding is unacceptable! Gotta try something different. Hopefully the new chainring will do the trick.
    good to know...I almost chose Demonde Tech. I'm going to try the new bike specific stuff from WD-40: Products*|*WD-40 Bike. I'll post back how it goes.

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    757
    Well, for what it is worth...I have another bike with XX1 and it is a 30T. The drivetrain is probably 4 months newer and it is quiet, or at least quieter than the older one. I am getting paranoid now. I have been thinking for sometime now that it has been a bottom bracket issue (on both bikes). That is one reason I went with a CK pressfit 30 bottom bracket, thinking the Sram pressfit to BSA adaptor may be the culprit. The one bike has recently just gotten plain loud and annoying. I hope the other one is not about to follow suit.
    From reading this thread I now think (will know this afternoon) it is the chainrings.

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: goodoljake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    246
    I have three bikes with XX1. I have run 32T & 34T rings. This includes SRAM, Race Face, and Wolf's Tooth Direct Mount. All three ring types start to grind as they wear to what I have to consider is the useful life of the ring (700-800 Miles). I am convinced it is inherent to the tooth shape/design with the possibility of the original chain design as being a possible contributor. I now have my first solid plate chain in use and will see how it wears.

    Of the three rings I believe the Race Face to be the best. Not because it outperforms the other two, but because mated with a 3x spider it is the lowest price to purchase and because I can SAFELY turn it around and use it for twice as long. I know folks have said they turn around the SRAM one, but it is not designed to be used that way and they are resting completely on aluminum bolts when reversed which I fear under my weight and trail style is not a safe scenario compared to the steel sleeves used on the traditional 3x spider bolts.

    I use Dumonde Tech blue with great success on XX1 and prior 2x10 groupos. My XX1 runs quiet and smooth with no issues and after learning the nuances of the derailleur clutch it truly performs flawlessly.

    I understand that we all are not getting 1500-2000 miles off of this chainring like we might have with 2x10, but we are also not splitting duty with two rings. As well our range of rear cogs is larger and physically wider than a 3x9 or 2x10 so one should not expect the chain to last as long either. A price I am OK with due to the XX1 simplicity and function I have grown so fond of.

    Hopefully my experience and perspective will help at least a couple of you and I wish all of you good luck.

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    757
    Well, it was the chain ring!!! I am happy to report. Thanks Goodoljake! Your post was very helpful. I am going to guesstimate that my ring was around 6-7 months old. So I replaced the chain first and then the chain ring. The Chain ring was definitely the problem. My question now is, can I safely put the old chain back on to get more mileage out of it? It measured right on 0.5 on the parktool chain checker, or should I just chunk the old chain?

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: goodoljake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    246
    Since you already started using the new chain I would just continue to use it. Save the other one for a spare. I've changed mine each time with the ring, but they were at .75 anyway.

  38. #38
    Bodhisattva
    Reputation: The Squeaky Wheel's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    10,259
    I've gone through two 28t XX1 chainrings due to grind and am convinced it has nothing to do with lube and is rather inherent to the design. I can feel mine but can't hear it.

    I hope someone solves this problem quickly. I ride with Cytoe and his audible grind is driving me NUTS !
    “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep moving.”

    ― Albert Einstein

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    757
    Speaking of chains, the one I installed has the groove on the side plates. My understanding is that SRAM quit making the chain this way. I wonder if the chain will become a problem eventually? Break or whatever.

  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    240
    I'm experiencing this grinding as well on my 1 month old XX1 w/ 28T ring. It's audible and tactile. I don't recall where I found it but it's the same as the grinding in this video clip: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Soy84zpMOXE

    Doesn't matter what gear I'm in on the rear, just proportional to load/torque. I'm really bummed about this, I waited over a year before committing to XX1 and all the reviews were glowing?! My derailleur B tension jockey pulley to cassette gap is within spec and the der hanger has been aligned perfectly. I can't own a drivetrain that requires a new chainring every damn month!

    Somebody suggested above reducing the clutch torque. Intuitively that makes no sense to me as I would think more derailleur spring force would tend to help pull the chain off the front chainring but I'll give it a try regardless. I'm not experiencing any of the derailleur clutch clunk/noise.

  41. #41
    11 is one louder than 10
    Reputation: Green Giant's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,395
    I've got GRINDATOSIS also (can I get credit for that diagnosis name).

    new chain and cassette this year, but the same 32 tooth chainring as last year. Going to try another one of my chainrings tomorrow.

    Wish Shimano had made a wider range 1 x 11!
    "The thing is, Bob, it's not that I'm lazy, it's that I just don't care."

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    240
    Greasing the derailleur does nothing for the grinding as I expected. Reversing the chaninring solved the issue. I can see shark toothing on my ring after only 1 month. WTF?!

    I searched for somebody that makes a steel or Ti ring for XX1 to no avail but did find Blackspire makes them from 7075 which is a bit harder or stronger than the 7050 of SRAM. I'll be trying that to see if it proves more durable.

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    1,416
    The wd-40 dry bike chain lube helps, though I do still hear/feel the grind...but it's much reduced, dare I say bearable. I'm guessing I'll have to lube often to keep the annoying grind at bay, but I guess I'll see.

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation: brentos's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1,420
    I got 1500 miles out of a 32 t ring, and only about 300 out of each of the 30 t rings I've tried...

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    240
    Quote Originally Posted by brentos View Post
    I got 1500 miles out of a 32 t ring, and only about 300 out of each of the 30 t rings I've tried...
    That seams to be the general consensus. I just can't understand why that is the case:

    The max load or torque applied is going to be similar regardless of ring size. In fact the larger ring should see large peak torque with the increased gear ratio/reduced leverage ratio. A 32 has a gear ratio approx 14% higher than a 28.

    Conversely the smaller ring would then stand to have slightly higher total number of revolutions. Again, worst case would be according to the gear ratio difference or 14% more total revolutions.

    What am I missing? Is it the chainline angle? I checked the chain and it's at .25 on a Park Tool.

    I probably spent 80% of my time on a 2x9 in my 22T granny. I would get over a year of life (4,000+ miles?) out of that aluminum chainring and never change the chain!

    What is so different about the 1x11 system that causes such fast chainring wear and why have none of the gushing editorials even remotely hinted at this? It's a deal breaker for me. As much as I love the simplicity I may have to revert to a 2x Shimano system just for total cost of operation reasons. Running a 32 is not an option for me - I simply won't be able to climb everything I currently do or I'll blow my knees and back out trying.

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    575
    Perhaps stating the obvious, but this "knock" sound must be caused by reshaping of the front edge of each tooth where the chain links roll over them under load. Has anyone looked at a really worn XX1 ring in detail to see if there is some small bump worn into the front of each tooth?

    Standard rings (with shorter teeth) wear into waves / sharktooth shapes but retain a smooth load bearing surface - with the result that you can just keep riding them until either you get terminal chainsuck or the chain slips forward over the rings. I'm wondering if the taller XX1 teeth don't wear like this?.....

    It might actually be difficult to find a really worn XX1 ring - I would think most users are changing chains / chainrings pretty regularly in an effort to save the costly cassette (or maybe because this knocking sound annoys them!)

  47. #47
    mtbr member
    Reputation: brentos's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    1,420
    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    That seams to be the general consensus. I just can't understand why that is the case:

    The max load or torque applied is going to be similar regardless of ring size. In fact the larger ring should see large peak torque with the increased gear ratio/reduced leverage ratio. A 32 has a gear ratio approx 14% higher than a 28.

    Conversely the smaller ring would then stand to have slightly higher total number of revolutions. Again, worst case would be according to the gear ratio difference or 14% more total revolutions.

    What am I missing? Is it the chainline angle? I checked the chain and it's at .25 on a Park Tool.

    I probably spent 80% of my time on a 2x9 in my 22T granny. I would get over a year of life (4,000+ miles?) out of that aluminum chainring and never change the chain!

    What is so different about the 1x11 system that causes such fast chainring wear and why have none of the gushing editorials even remotely hinted at this? It's a deal breaker for me. As much as I love the simplicity I may have to revert to a 2x Shimano system just for total cost of operation reasons. Running a 32 is not an option for me - I simply won't be able to climb everything I currently do or I'll blow my knees and back out trying.
    Smaller chainring = more chain tension + less material to sacrifice to wear.

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation: goodoljake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    246
    The teeth are wider (or thicker??) on the XX1 rings as to keep the chain on it. But the side effect of that is faster wear due to the approach angle of the chain going from the cassette to the ring as it grinds down the sides much more than on a typical ring. I believe that shoulder created from that contacting the chain (with grime and grit) is what causes the horrible and annoying sound.

    As for one size ring lasting longer than another, I do not think it has anything to do with the tooth count, but everything to do with the most common rear cogs you use. Meaning if you are in the top of the cassette more than anything you will wear the outer teeth surfaces of the ring faster. Smaller cassette cogs will cause inner ring wear, and if you are balanced and use the middle cogs the most you will have more equal wear and probably a longer lasting ring.

    I run a 34T up front, but I also do a lot of climbing so I spend a lot of time under load on those larger cassette cogs. I would bet $$$ that if I switched to a 32T I would get more life out of it as the chain would wear the front teeth more evenly, but those times I am on flats would suffer with a lower top speed. Awe heck, I am going to go with a 32T next time and see if my theory proves correct.

  49. #49
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    240
    Quote Originally Posted by jimification View Post
    Perhaps stating the obvious, but this "knock" sound must be caused by reshaping of the front edge of each tooth where the chain links roll over them under load. Has anyone looked at a really worn XX1 ring in detail to see if there is some small bump worn into the front of each tooth?
    I would describe my issue as chain grinding, not knocking, but yes, when I reversed my chainring I had a close look and saw Brinelling or a small spot indentation on the driving faces of the chainring teeth. I previously described it as sharktoothing but as some folks noted here, maybe the sharktoothing dynamic is different with these taller/wider teeth. It did appear to be more of a spot indentation than the overall hooking I've seen on past 2x and 3x standard rings. I'm fairly sure the chain doesn't roll off that spot indentation easily and that's the source of the noise.

    In any event, once my ring starts doing it in this reversed position I plan on selling the whole XX1 kit. I don't mind spending a wad of cash on top shelf kit but not if it means having to buy a new chainring every damn month. That's just absurd and I'm really disappointed I waited almost 2 years on this system and never heard a peep in the press, forums, fellow riding buddies, nothing. I guess I just like a quiet bike and am not willing to tolerate it sounding like a damn Huffy.

  50. #50
    mtbr member
    Reputation: goodoljake's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    246
    Quote Originally Posted by dodger View Post
    ... once my ring starts doing it in this reversed position I plan on selling the whole XX1 kit.
    PM me and I'll take it off your hands.

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. rubbing/grinding chain and cassette?
    By flynbryan19 in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 08-17-2012, 12:09 PM
  2. Help! New chain, grinding sounds under torque ...
    By OldSkoolMark in forum Singlespeed
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-15-2012, 01:22 PM
  3. Chain grinding against front derailleur
    By stinsonian in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 05-01-2011, 10:13 PM
  4. New chain now sram drivetrain grinding in middle ring
    By muddyBiker774 in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 04-11-2011, 05:43 PM
  5. New chain grinding...did I wait too long?
    By Shark in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 04-09-2011, 02:08 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •