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Thread: XOs suck

  1. #1
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    XOs suck

    SRAM continues to put out crappy brakes. These are worse than my old HFXs. Unfortunately they came stock on my Scalpel. I read the entire mega thread and came away convinced there is no particular cure. Even recent reviews by BIKE and MBA mentioned the dreaded turkey gobble. Its annoying that my LBS and I have to come up with a solution for a new product.

    Ironically I like the remainder of the SRAM product line. I find it puzzling that Avid is so hit or miss with their brakes.

    So where can I get clamps to adapt my match maker system so I can install my new XTs?

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrDon View Post
    SRAM continues to put out crappy brakes. These are worse than my old HFXs. Unfortunately they came stock on my Scalpel. I read the entire mega thread and came away convinced there is no particular cure. Even recent reviews by BIKE and MBA mentioned the dreaded turkey gobble. Its annoying that my LBS and I have to come up with a solution for a new product.

    Ironically I like the remainder of the SRAM product line. I find it puzzling that Avid is so hit or miss with their brakes.

    So where can I get clamps to adapt my match maker system so I can install my new XTs?

    Keep the brakes,solution buy some 2012 Shimano XT RT86 6 Bolt ICE Disc Rotor 160/180/203mm and you'll be sweet not too expensive to do, problem solved.

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    I was going to try your solution but was told the HSX rotors would solve my problems. I'll give the Shimsno rotors a shot.

  4. #4
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    I think it is a combo of SRAM's rotor material and brake pad media. I have Elixir 9's and they worked flawlessly without any noise for the first month then I started to get the squeal. I replaced the pads with Yokozuna pads:
    Yokozuna Premium Cables, Housing and Brake Pads
    Noise is now gone. The troubling problem I have had with Avid brakes is getting the hose to seat in the lever when shortening the hose. When I first shortened the hose, it took several attempts with new olives to get it to seal without leaking. Then three months later I was riding and hit the rear brake hard climbing a technical section and the hose literally popped out of the lever. Ride Over! I was able to get it t reset with a new olive and it has held for a few rides but I recently purchased a Goodridge line kit and will install it as soon as it arrives, the goodridge kit has all threaded connections, no compression fittings.

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    I have the 2012 XX WCs. They were a warranty replacement of the 2011s. So I was running them with the old CSX rotors. They started out great and then I got the gobble really really bad. I just replaced the rear CSX rotor with a new HSX rotor and it was absolutely silent for a few rides butnow I am starting to get the vibration back with just a little turkey gobble. Its better than it was before by a long shot but it still hasnt gotten rid of it yet.

    Is it safe to use the shimano ice rotors since they have aluminum in them? Arent they designed to be used with their specific brake pads (with the heat sink fins) because they run hotter? Does anyone have first hand experience with using those on any avid elixier brakes?

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    Quote Originally Posted by StolltheMusic View Post
    Is it safe to use the shimano ice rotors since they have aluminum in them? Arent they designed to be used with their specific brake pads (with the heat sink fins) because they run hotter? Does anyone have first hand experience with using those on any avid elixier brakes?

    I don't think it will be a problem, Shimano SLX/ XT/XTR brakes come in versions wherein the pads have no fins. These non-finned versions use the Icetech rotors too.

    I personally think the fins are just a gimmick, if ever they really do make a difference it would only be on really steep and long descents.

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    Have you tried sanding the rotors and pads and doing the official avid brake in procedure? The key is getting a uniform amount of the pad material transferred to the rotor. If the rotors get contaminated or uneven material build up, they warble.

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    Brakes just slow you down, if they are noisy, use them less! ha

  9. #9
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    Have you tried sanding the rotors and pads and doing the official avid brake in procedure? The key is getting a uniform amount of the pad material transferred to the rotor. If the rotors get contaminated or uneven material build up, they warble.
    yes and yes x 2

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