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  1. #1
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    SRAM X7 10 speed rear shifter hard in top gears?

    I recently started riding a new trail where I am using the 2 largest cogs on my cassette, 34t max, and noticed its very hard to shift into the 34t cog, a little easier on the next one down and then normal everywhere else. I am also running an X7 medium rear with XT 11-34 cassette.

    Is it normal to require substantially more effort to get into the largest gear or is there an adjustment on the shifter maybe?

    I did a tune up on the bike yesterday and adjusted the cable tension on the shifter after tuning the rear der.
    Hardrock 29er, Niner EMD9, Cannondale F29, Camber Expert, 650b Nickel all gone.
    2014 Giant Anthem 27.5 here.

  2. #2
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    No this is not normal. I have the X7 shifters, and every gear change feels the same. Most likely your derailleur adjustment is causing the extra effort.

    It's hard to offer advice without seeing things, but I had this problem when my "B-screw" was not adjusted properly. The upper pulley needs 6mm (?bad memory?) clearance between the largest cog. If the pulley is too close to the cogs, the chain doesn't engage the teeth properly unless you apply a lot of force. Maybe your L-screw is too tight also.

    Check out this Park article for derailleur adjustment advice.

  3. #3
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    Thanks for the reply, I used a youtube sram video for setting up the rear and I have between 5-7 mm using the B-screw, I adjusted the high/low range as recommended, it works brilliantly otherwise and the effort has been reduced but it still is NOT like all the other gear changes, and when I step it down a gear its a noticably louder gear change as if its under pressure, weird.

    My brother is about to give me his X9 rear and I'll pick up an X0 shifter so its a moot point anyway I guess, but I think I may have crud in the lines.
    Hardrock 29er, Niner EMD9, Cannondale F29, Camber Expert, 650b Nickel all gone.
    2014 Giant Anthem 27.5 here.

  4. #4
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    My best guess is that your inner limit screw needs backing off. To test this theory, change from the 30 to the 34. Note how hard it is and release back to the 30 (2nd easiest). Back off the inner limit screw a little bit and repeat the change. If it becomes easier, you have found your problem.

    Ensure that the jockey wheel is no more than a hair inside the line of your 34 or you risk dumping the chain in to your spokes.

    To be honest, I'd just about bet beer on it from your description, but it's always a punt diagnosing this stuff on the internet.

    Best of luck with it.

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