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  1. #1
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    Reverb stuck down

    Hello mtbr I have done a basic seal replacement due to a blown seal and not holding air so after replacing seals now holds air and now the post is stuck in the down position I have bled and bled all air out no more air in hydrolic system if I pull the seat up by hand it just sucks right back down with or without remote. any ideas or experience with this post

  2. #2
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    Reverb stuck down

    During the basic seal replacement, did you remove the inner shaft?

  3. #3
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    Yes i did remove the shaft with the shrader at the end is that the one your talking about

  4. #4
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    Reverb stuck down

    Yes, I believe we are talking about the same one. It should be a thin shaft that is sorta light gold color and 10mm in diameter. When you remove that shaft, did you see lots of air bubbles in the oil? Meaning, when you looked at the other shaft that the gold color shaft goes into, did you see the oil (and possibly bubbles)? Sorry if that is confusing. If you saw a lot of bubbles, then you need to start replacing o-rings. My guess is that you didn't see bubbles since you just replaced o-rings (assuming as well that you didn't damage them upon installation). I'm guess ing the oil level is low in the shaft the gold shaft goes into. This has happened to me before (pump it up, shaft gets sucked into the post). Fill that inner shaft up with oil. Do it slowly. You won't fill it to the top. Fill it til it is around 2cm from the top. Place the gold shaft back into that shaft with the oil. Screw it on with the inner seal head (the silver colored collar on the inside of the reverb. You would have had to remove this to replace the seals so I'm assuming you are good to go at this point). If the inner seal head is too hard to screw back on or straight up can't be screwed on, you have too much oil in the shaft. Remove the gold shaft, pour out a little oil, try again. When you get it right, this should work and prevent the post from getting sucked back in.

  5. #5
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    Thank you Laterilus I will try as soon as I get a chance I was suspecting the oil just didn't known were to add and you tube videos only show adding oil after a full service and complete seal replacement and I did a basic seal replacement I found the seal that was blown and replaced along with all others in the kit and bled to spec ,,,, and there were no bubbles in that location only bubbles after repair were in the remote side as I did a disassembly after rebuild to check my work no pinched seals were present so I will try adding oil to inner shaft and keep you posted ..thanks for taking time to help

  6. #6
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    Reverb stuck down

    Not a problem. Glad to help. The basic kit is fine. I really don't think the full kit is all that important. The most important parts I've found that wear the most on a reverb are found in the basic kit. That is the inner seal head o-rings, the replaceable bushing and the o-rings to the skinny gold colored air shaft (they refer to it as the main piston). I hope everything in my previous post made sense. It can be difficult to follow with out seeing some one rebuild one while explaining. I gather you found the videos where they do the inner post bleed. That is where you thought you shouldn't add oil unless you were doing a full rebuild kit? If so, again, don't sweat the full kit. It isn't necessary. I will do an inner post bleed if the basic kit o-rings go bad, which are basically the only o-rings that do go bad.

    What I suspect happens sometimes when doing an inner post bleed is that the ifp will move when you start to pump up the post. That is the only thing I can think of because there has to be some sort of created evacuated space from something moving in order for the gold colored shaft (main piston) to be sucked in like that. I've noticed any time that has happened to me that when I remove the gold piston shaft, the inner shaft that houses the oil is way low on oil. I guess at that point the ifp is not in the correct space anymore, but oh well, it doesn't seem to affect performance. I just fill the inner shaft with oil til the main piston can sit on top of the oil and the inner seal head can be screwed on tightly again. Problem fixed.

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the info i havent had a chance to add oil been busy but i do have a question when i add oil to the inner shaft do i have to open the bleed valve on the post

  8. #8
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    Reverb stuck down

    No. The poppet valve will be closed while you are attempting to fix your current problem. Since the valve is closed, the remote/hose line/post bleed port are isolated from the oil inside the post. The air gap you are attempting to fill with oil is the gap you will see when you remove the gold piston shaft on the inside of the post.

  9. #9
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    Laterilus i must say thank you your info helped so much it was exactly that oil level in inner shaft added oil and now it works like a charm you really helped THANK YOU

  10. #10
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    Reverb stuck down

    Quote Originally Posted by ndrsroark View Post
    Laterilus i must say thank you your info helped so much it was exactly that oil level in inner shaft added oil and now it works like a charm you really helped THANK YOU
    Hey! That's great news! 😃 It's tough to diagnose problems with the reverb at times and difficult to explain things considering there are 4 shafts in total that all go into each other. Speaking of which, one of the things I do to help find the problem quicker is re-install the bottom cap on the gold colored main piston shaft after you remove the outer seat post (the portion that is actually in contact with your frame). Once you re-install the bottom cap, you can now pump it back up to 250 psi, but now you have quick and easy access to all the internals since you already have it opened up. This is also helpful at saving time for the specific problem you just had. While pumping up the post, you would have noticed the gold piston shaft get sucked up into the oil chamber. Now you know how to fix it, so it isn't a big deal. Lastly, once you fix the problem, you can always 'test' your repair first using this same trick. It saves you a ton of time from putting the post completely back together then hoping your repair worked.

    Either way, glad to help and glad to see you up and running again. I've tried many dropper posts, but the reverb is my favorite. The main reason being because SRAM allows you to repair EVERYTHING on the post. Nothing is hidden. No need to ever send it in. It is always repairable and the parts needed to repair it are extremely cheap.

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