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  1. #1
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    Can Fixed Coil 170 Lyrik Be Reduced to 160mm?

    It seems the Lyrik fixed coil forks are only available in 170mm (Though websites show 160 as an option, they can't be found). Can the 170mm Lyriks be reduced to 160mm using the 10mm spacer w/o adverse affects? I imagine it can be done just that the spring will be compressed and have more preload. I guess it may ride stiffer, maybe have a progressive feel with ramping towards the end travel. All hearsay.IDK.

    Yes, I know about U-turns but I'm looking at the fixed coil to avoid potential problems. KISS is what I like


    Anyone done this?
    We Ride In God's Country!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by myitch View Post
    It seems the Lyrik fixed coil forks are only available in 170mm (Though websites show 160 as an option, they can't be found). Can the 170mm Lyriks be reduced to 160mm using the 10mm spacer w/o adverse affects? I imagine it can be done just that the spring will be compressed and have more preload. I guess it may ride stiffer, maybe have a progressive feel with ramping towards the end travel. All hearsay.IDK.

    Yes, I know about U-turns but I'm looking at the fixed coil to avoid potential problems. KISS is what I like


    Anyone done this?
    I just added a 20mm spacer and brought the travel down to 150mm. The fork feels good and I don't really see any potential problems but I haven't ridden it enough to say for certain yet. 20mm was a little tough to compress enough to get the top cap on but 10mm should be very easy.

  3. #3
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    have you changed the spring?
    what about sag?
    tnhks

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tkul View Post
    have you changed the spring?
    what about sag?
    tnhks
    Same spring...Sag is about 20% of 150mm. Was 25% at 170mm. I could probably go to a light spring but for this bike I like the slightly firmer feel it has now.

  5. #5
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    You've placed a 20mm spacer in this location, right?



    Might just do it, to reduce my current 170 to 160.
    Aluminum spacer, or plastic?

    Thanks!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tkul View Post
    You've placed a 20mm spacer in this location, right?



    Might just do it, to reduce my current 170 to 160.
    Aluminum spacer, or plastic?

    Thanks!
    It goes just to the left of your arrow in the photo. Just above the top out spring. I used the rockshox alltravel kit spacer.

    I rode the fork lowered 20mm two days ago and it felt too harsh on the small bumps. I may try shortening the spring or throw my light spring in there and see how it feels. I think 10mm would still work well though. Its easy enough to switch it back if you don't like it.

  7. #7
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    Don't cut springs.
    Try to find a shorter one, since preloading it, won't change the rate, and you can bottom easily.
    The easiest way, would be converting it to air (via Soloair, or with Protone) - that way you could vary travel according to your preferences - but adding extra cost.
    Try 160mm, I think the springs are the same as the 170mm models

  8. #8
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    I actually have a solo air spring on order but its taking forever to come in...they were backordered for a few months. I have a brand new set of uppers as well. I also have all the u-turn parts as well but my medium u-turn spring is too stiff and my light u-turn spring is too soft. The 170 coil spring is the best rate for my weight and riding but it is way too harsh overly preloaded. I'm hoping that the air spring will come in soon so I can stop tearing by fork down every 2 days.

  9. #9
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    You can shorten the rod on the spring side of the fork by 10mm. By shortening that piece it limits extension of the fork and hence available travel. It will not affect spring rate or preload. If your fork sagged 40mm in 170 mm travel, it will sag the same amount in shorter travel.

    And by shortening, I mean cut the rod with a hacksaw or turn it on a lathe. I did this to my fork, and there are still enough internals threads for screw at the bottom of the sliders to grab.

  10. #10
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    Interesting...I thought about removing the piece from the other end and shortening it and putting it back together..That should work too no? Could go as short as you want that way with no change in preload or spring rate. I finally got my air spring, custom made a base plate to run it at 145mm. I'm loving it so far!

  11. #11
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    so you just cutted the rod by 10?
    Have you measure how much thread the rod has (it can be done by threading a longer bolt until it doesn't move more, and check the dimension).
    thanks for the imput!

    PS - Although it's a good idea, I still prefer the Solo Air approach. It's not very expensive, you lose some weight, and after trying a Solo Air, I do prefer for AM riding.
    The 170, would be assembled for lift days.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Can Fixed Coil 170 Lyrik Be Reduced to 160mm?-170-rod.jpg  


  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tkul View Post
    so you just cutted the rod by 10?
    Have you measure how much thread the rod has (it can be done by threading a longer bolt until it doesn't move more, and check the dimension).
    thanks for the imput!

    PS - Although it's a good idea, I still prefer the Solo Air approach. It's not very expensive, you lose some weight, and after trying a Solo Air, I do prefer for AM riding.
    The 170, would be assembled for lift days.
    I did exactly what you illustrated with your picture. I didn't measure how deep the thread go in the rod, but it was more than deep enough for cutting off 10mm.

    I'm not sure if it possible to convert a fork and back and forth between Solo air and Coil Spring. It used to not be possible, or rather you could do it, but life span of seals in the Solo air pistons would be reduced.

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