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  1. #1
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    Anyone else going through lots of rear der cables?

    Like, LOTS of rear cables? It's 2011 XO ten speed, and I have XO 9 speed rear der's on three other bikes, cable routing all similar, all using same brand of cables (Shimano or Jagwire). For some reason the ten speed bike breaks or frays the shifter cables right at the 'rollamajig' guide thingie constantly, like, every half dozen rides it seems.

    I've checked for burrs on the roller/guide deal and it's all smooth, and I've adjusting the b-tension to see if changing the angle of the derailleur a bit makes a difference, but where the cable keeps breaking is between the housing stop portion of the der and the guide, the angle of the cable itself remains constant no matter where the derailleur is.

    I don't know if it's just from ham fisted gear grabbing or what, but I don't shift this bike any different than the others and I've never had one of those cables break. At first I though I may have snagged something, then figured maybe a bad cable... but about half a dozen cables in a matter of months has me thinking something else is up. I'll try to post a picture later, just figured I'd see if anyone else has experienced something similar.

    TIA!

  2. #2
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    Actually, I just had a relatively new cable snap on me at that exact spot on an XX rear derailleur. It was during a race unfortunately and caught me by surprise since it wasn't that old...

  3. #3
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    I had to replace the inner gear cable on my 2011 SRAM X-0 10 speed rear derailleur a few weeks ago. The exposed gear cable where it exits the rear derailleur was frayed and about 1/3 of the wire strands had broken. The broken strands were all on the outside of the cable and fairly high up (cable that would pull through the outer housing) The shifting was increasingly poor but fortunately I noticed before it snapped completely.

    The gear cable was 8 months old and had done 411 hours riding.

    I never had any gear cable issues with my previous SRAM X-0 9 speed or Shimano Deore XT gears on the same frame.

  4. #4
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    Looks like the rd forged cable stop for the cable housing as sharp edges and the design of this specific model don't succeed into align the ferrule's hole with the guide and then the cable is contacting the rd cable stop and with friction cause the cable to fray and fail...

    Any pics yet ?

    David
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  5. #5
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    Another one bites the dust

    Almost exactly two months since replacement I noticed the telltale wonky rear shifting, sure enough cable number umpteenth gave up the fight... and this time I took pictures.

    I've checked the Rollamajig thingie to make sure there weren't any burrs, even used a length of cable as a file to skim things down. But it's the same failure every time, perfect straight cut right at the fulcrum point of the cable against the roller deal - the first time the cable actually broke while riding it was so clean I thought for sure I had snagged a rock or sharp branch of some sort, the second, third, fourth one had me suspecting sabotage... it looks like someone has used an edge to slice the cable strands.

    I'm guessing the design of the roller and angle of the cable create a stress riser at that point, and perhaps the extra oomph of tugging that last big cog shift makes the ten speeds more vulnerable to breakage. I've started monitoring my nine speed bikes closely now and I can certainly see that the cable is a bit mashed in the same area, but none of those bike is or has shredded and snapped the way this one does.

    I guess I'm going to keep trying different cables, perhaps at some point I'll find one that's a bit more durable. It's not a huge problem (as long as it doesn't snap mid-ride again), and now that I know about it I'm constantly monitoring that area. I just wish Sram would design a simpler method of swapping cables (like, oh, Shimano's system), taking apart the shifter everytime more or less sucks.

    That said, I must say I love ten speed. Not just 2x10, though the 2x part is a bonus for sure (I find myself having to relearn triples whenever I'm on one of those bikes), but there's something about the ten speed gears/chain interface that just feels sooooo smooth. My nine speed bikes all shift just fine, but the 10er just feels like a Rolex... only description I can think of. Similar to Sram/Avid brakes, or dropper posts, it works so well when it's on that it gives you fits when it starts acting up.

    Crappy resized phone pic, look familiar to anyone?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone else going through lots of rear der cables?-jan12-068.jpg  


  6. #6
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    Sorry you still have problem... Honestly maybe try a X-7 or X-9 instead ? My X-7 have been free of trouble regarding cable wear since I've started use them 2 years ago.

    And what's difficult to change your cable ? Just shift down to release all cable length, then you push the cable inside the shifter and it will slide right out like the Shimano does
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  7. #7
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    Its a problem with SRAM's design. The cable rides over a derailleur cam and constantly goes through tight bending as you shift, causing cyclic fatigue. Only option is to inspect it carefully and often and replace when a single strand is broken

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikeoffroad View Post
    Its a problem with SRAM's design. The cable rides over a derailleur cam and constantly goes through tight bending as you shift, causing cyclic fatigue. Only option is to inspect it carefully and often and replace when a single strand is broken
    I don't see it as a "problem".

    In fact, this design is superior to the long housing routing that Shimano normally use. This allow to a very minimal friction of the cable with the housing, and make it less prone to snag. See what they did with the new SLX and up derailleurs ? They dropped the long housing bend to go for a more direct routing.

    Yeah, the cable get a good bend, but it never moves, it's always static on the cam and not moving, so no problem there. My guess goes to a defective rd. Manufacturing default. Not a design problem.
    Quote Originally Posted by NicoleB28 View Post
    topless. that's what all mtb girls do. we go ride, get topless, have pillow fights in the woods, scissor, then ride home!

  9. #9
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    sram will replace.

    I replaced 5 rear derailler cables in 13 months. Last one broke on me during a race. I called Sram and asked what gives? They said they know about the issue and supposedly the fin or rollamajig angle has now been changed and it supposedly will reduce these torn cables. I had an early model Sram XX (dec 2010) and they said the changed the design since then. As a result, and since I'm under warranty, they are sending me a new XX rear derailler and gore cable housing for FREE. Just go to your local shop, tell them what is happening, have them call SRAM and hopefully this new design will really do what they say.

  10. #10
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    You're not the only one...

    Got my bike in August with XO drivetrain 2x10... this is a pic of cable number 5. This conveniently occurred during a 12 hour race- I was a couple threads from the cable completely breaking by the end of the race. So SRAM sent me a new one and I thought I was in the clear, but alas I noticed last week that the cable was breaking again. It seemed to last longer, but still I've never had an issue like this before. The most recent cable lasted about 2.5-3 months with probably about 1,000 miles. I'm using a jagwire cable now... we'll see how long this one lasts.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone else going through lots of rear der cables?-img_0523.jpg  

    Anyone else going through lots of rear der cables?-img_0522.jpg  


  11. #11
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    Hello
    I found this post when researching this problem. I have an X.9 rear changer on my recumbent that just frayed a cable.
    I think its a design flaw where the cable is placed at an extreme angle when changed to the larger cogs.
    I'm glad to find others are having the same issues. My cable frayed just like yours did and it was not in extreme off road action
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone else going through lots of rear der cables?-chain-routing-3.jpg  


  12. #12
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    I had this problem today

    I have an X9 rear derailleur, one year old, and the cable just snapped today with about 600miles on it. Looking at the way the cable is bent over the fulcrum it appears that the cable is well past its bend radius and is clearly being bent and unbent at this same point. It appears to be a design oversight. It could so easily be fixed by changing the shape of the fulcrum. Still, now I am stuck with it. I will go back to Trek and see what they can do.

  13. #13
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    Same problem today - 15 rides or less on mine. After comparing with my old derailleur it looks like the plastic piece used in the old 9 speed pieces may have helped prevent this problem.

  14. #14
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    Yep... replaced another cable last week. Thankfully it's easy and cheap to do since I go through them every 2-3 months. My next bike will have an XTR drive train...

  15. #15
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    Trying a fix for this...

    I have about 1 inch of electrical insulation from an electrical cable (about 1/8th inch OD). I slid it over the shifter cable and into place over the fulcrum of the X9 derailleur and it is held in place on the derailleur using a drop of Shoe Goo. As there is no motion of the cable through the insulation, there should be minimal wear of the insulation. The insulation keeps the cable from touching the (now sharpish) metal of the fulcrum of the derailleur. So far so good. Season over, no apparent issues and no miss shifting.

    YMMV.

    Ask again in 12 months. I hope to use the cable for one and a half seasons to make a point.

    Also, I use Shoe Goo on the cable-end instead of a crimp. Much thinner and slides off X9 easily (which I prefer).

  16. #16
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    Yup - same problem here. Rigged up a sleeve that should prolong life, but I'm going to can the SRAM stuff. The last thing I need is to be worrying about snapping cables all the time.

  17. #17
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    5 broken cables in less than a month

    Quote Originally Posted by mtb-ripper View Post
    Yup - same problem here. Rigged up a sleeve that should prolong life, but I'm going to can the SRAM stuff. The last thing I need is to be worrying about snapping cables all the time.
    My son has been driving me nuts coming home after a few days on his DH bike with snapped cables.

    First I thought it was his X9 Type 2 derailler ... took it apart, lubed the clutch and it was smoother... still breaking cables ... no fraying.. snapped clean just after the housing stop.

    Zap tied the housing to ensure that the full length was going in with a correct angle ... still breaking cables

    Replaced rear mech with a non type 2 X0 DH derailler ... 2 days later SNAP!

    Going to lose my mind? In 25 yrs of mtn bike riding & racing ... I've never snapped a derailler cable!

    going to invest in shimano

    JH

  18. #18
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    I think I'm experiencing same problem... and a hypothetical solution:

    Two x-9 type 2 rear der's on my two bikes, both cables fraying between the der cable stop and the "rollamajig" looking thing as described above. Hypothesis: in the extreme low gear, the cable is running against the metal housing stop causing it too fray.

    Potential solution, wondering if anyone has tried using a shimano ferrule/housing end cap with the noodle on it, to keep the cable off the metal. Pics attached.

    Anyone else going through lots of rear der cables?-2013-09-13-20.21.06.jpgAnyone else going through lots of rear der cables?-2013-09-13-20.20.34.jpgAnyone else going through lots of rear der cables?-2013-09-13-20.20.43.jpg

  19. #19
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    I went through a der cable every 1.5 days in Whistler. Rode 8 straight days and went through 5 cables.

    Sending the der in for warranty now that the season is over

  20. #20
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    Yep.... After I starting having the same problem on my new BMC fourstroke (had the issue with my BMC speedfox) I pulled the XTR drivetrain off my 26er hardtail and put it on my new bike. Problem solved.

    I have SRAM on my hardtail and on my road bike with no issues, but I mostly ride my 29er dualie and couldn't take it any more. Plus, as we all know, XO/SRAM brakes suck!

  21. #21
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    Teflon coated derailleur cables do help with this problem. I've seen a couple cables begin to fray at that spot on an X9 rear derailleur after about 500 miles. I haven't had any issues with my own Sram drivetrain, but I usually replace my cables more often than that. The teflon makes the cable glide a bit easier across the derailleur where all these problems are happening and does prolong the cable's life.

  22. #22
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    @sasquatch- ive broken quite a few teflon cables on my x0 10 speed. in my experience they dont seem to last any longer. the most recent break was teflon and maybe a 200 miles, with mostly lift access riding and minimal shifting.

    @rfxc- i thought about trying one of the jagwire ferrules in the same manner, but decided it would probably just cut right through and end up looking sloppy. maybe i am wrong? maybe i will try it when i install my new X9 type 2?
    Juice

  23. #23
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    I'm having this problem as well, on my second cable in about 800 miles. I have a 2012 vintage X9

    -E

  24. #24
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    The cables eventually wear a notch into the derailleur where it exits the stop. Then the sharp edges of the notch kill the cables at a faster rate. You have to use a dremel with a small cutting bit and open up the hole a little. Make the exit point a round edge instead of a square edge. If there's already a groove worn in, smooth it out.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli View Post
    The cables eventually wear a notch into the derailleur where it exits the stop. Then the sharp edges of the notch kill the cables at a faster rate. You have to use a dremel with a small cutting bit and open up the hole a little. Make the exit point a round edge instead of a square edge. If there's already a groove worn in, smooth it out.
    I disagree. This was my theory as well, initially, on the two bikes I have that exhibit this problem. I did smooth out the wear point that you mentioned, but then eliminated further issues there with the "funnel/noodle" style ferrule I pictured above. No further wear of the metal stop has occured... yet still my cable frays after 6 weeks of riding, in the same place: over the "rollamajig" arm that gets pulled towards the stationary cable stop.

    Just brought my bike into my LBS this weekend, they're going to see what SRAM has to say.

  26. #26
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    Ok this is driving me crazy as well. A derailleur cable every dozen rides on my new specialized enduro with x9 derailleur. Same tactics, I lubed the clutch on the derailleur and adjusted it for less tension but no change still breaking cables. Has anyone gotten the Sram to work?

  27. #27
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    So it is 18 months later and the problem returns. No solution found except to replace the derailleur or put up with replacing cables.

  28. #28
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    @leadfoot 18 months since you last replaced a cable? or you had a good run and then started breaking cables every few rides again?
    Juice

  29. #29
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    Leadfoot I am not sure if you are asking or saying. I have had this problem since day one. I watch more closely now and hence see the fraying earlier. Better than breaking on a ride. I did file the end of the derailleur guide a little in hopes of lessening the corner where the cable leaves the guide. So far so good, but only about a dozen rides so far. Still that is not as bad as before.

  30. #30
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    Guys, same problems on Shimano Shadowy-types. Been breaking cables on them since they came out (how many years ago now?), and keep thinking each year it will be fixed.

    Well, today on my local loop, POP, there went another one...and riding out on the 11t...So now I can confirm it happens on XTR, XT and whatever the cheaper one is now--SLX or STX. I think I justed dated myself by saying STX. LOL

  31. #31
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    Just broke another. Will try a different derailleur.

  32. #32
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    Don't think it'll make a difference.

    I've have many different variations of 10-speed SRAM RDs over the last few years, right up to 2014 X9 and X0 Type 2, both OEM and parts. They all break shift cables in relatively short order as mentioned in this thread.

    I'm in Whistler for a few months, and nothing breaks cables like high speed runs through breaking bumps and big ass jumps! With about 25–30 hours in the bike park, my Demo has gone through four shift cables so far on its X9 Type 2 RD.

    Sadly, I have just accepted it as par for the course.

  33. #33
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    I am running a X0 non type 2 the last 40 or so rides and so far so good.

  34. #34
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    Update: I replaced the shifter cable near the start of the season. Previous time I put a short length of insulation from electrical cable over the shifter cable where it passes over the fulcrum. This time I did not. The shifter cable lasted a few months. I replaced it again yesterday. I have used a short length of old shifter cable housing in the same place. I cut it to about 3/4 inch length and slipped it over the cable at the fulcrum. I pre-bent it to about the correct bend radius of the fulcrum. Quickly setting up the shifting and running through the gears appears to have not had a noticeable effect on performance. We shall see if it lasts longer and if shifting continues to behave.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Anyone else going through lots of rear der cables?-img_20140806_133558941_hdr.jpg  


  35. #35
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    Interesting. On the Shimano side, mine breaks right where it anchors to the pinch bolt. I believe it just slightly rubs the sides of the 'pinch', and slowly saws away...the more you ride and shift, the quicker it breaks.

  36. #36
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    Anyone else going through lots of rear der cables?

    Another cable down for me. It hasn't gone completely but the strands are going so it's time to replace it. I meant to post a picture way back in 2011 but never got round to it until now.


  37. #37
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    As I mentioned in a previous post, I have been running a non clutch type XO derailleur for the last 4 months and all is well. My theory is that the clutch adds tension when shifting and results in the cable pulling hard over the edge of the guide so it eventually breaks.

  38. #38
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    My theory is similar: The clutch mechanism does result in a bit harder shift, but... more significantly, the clutch mechanism resists movement of the chain/cage, and that force is transferred elsewhere. that force is shifted to the der mount screw and to some extent the b screw. In rough terrain, Clutch der's are more likely to try and rotate/bounce at the mounting bolt, which actually moves/jars the cable against that metal elbow.

    I've had two rear der's that nearly unthreaded from the hanger due to this phenomenon.

    Loctite and proper torque when mounting the rear der is key to keeping the der on it, but it won't save the cable.

    When the cage is free to bounce, without a clutch, that metal elbow/cable interface is going to bounce a lot less.

    My anecdotal evidence:
    Hardtail with non clutch x9, 4" xc race bike with x9 clutch, 6" enduro race bike with clutch. All Trek's, all same der hanger.

    Hardtail has never broken a cable.
    4" XC bike breaks a cable maybe once ever 8 months.
    6" bike I was able to break a cable over a couple weekends of really harsh dh'ing at keystone.

    The 4" bike gets shifted a lot more than the 6" bike does. So shifting doesn't seem to wear it out, but rather, bouncing does.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeadFoot View Post
    Update: I replaced the shifter cable near the start of the season. Previous time I put a short length of insulation from electrical cable over the shifter cable where it passes over the fulcrum. This time I did not. The shifter cable lasted a few months. I replaced it again yesterday. I have used a short length of old shifter cable housing in the same place. I cut it to about 3/4 inch length and slipped it over the cable at the fulcrum. I pre-bent it to about the correct bend radius of the fulcrum. Quickly setting up the shifting and running through the gears appears to have not had a noticeable effect on performance. We shall see if it lasts longer and if shifting continues to behave.
    Just found this post as I've been going through derailleur cables on my X9 type 2. Has anyone found a solution to this one. Leadfoot, did your running the cable through a jacket help?

  40. #40
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    I switched to a non clutch XO derailleur and have more than a hundred rides now with no cable breakage.

  41. #41
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    I had this happen on a X0 Type 2 a while back - frayed in the same location as others and almost completely separated before I caught it. My other bike with an X9 Type 2 is starting to show the same signs of wear (not ridden as much). My theory is the pulley wheel found on the 11 Speed derailleurs alleviates the tension on the cable at this location and mitigates the problem.

    I noticed the X01 DH 10 Speed derailleur has the same type of pulley wheel. Only 10 speed option I've found with the pulley.

    Anyone else going through lots of rear der cables?-sram_mtb_x01_dh_rd_10sp_red_l_0.jpg

  42. #42
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    Just a heads up, that X01 10 speed option can handle at most an 11-28 cassette- designed for dh. It won't handle the 11-36 found on most 10 speed bikes.


    Quote Originally Posted by M0riarty View Post
    I had this happen on a X0 Type 2 a while back - frayed in the same location as others and almost completely separated before I caught it. My other bike with an X9 Type 2 is starting to show the same signs of wear (not ridden as much). My theory is the pulley wheel found on the 11 Speed derailleurs alleviates the tension on the cable at this location and mitigates the problem.

    I noticed the X01 DH 10 Speed derailleur has the same type of pulley wheel. Only 10 speed option I've found with the pulley.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  43. #43
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    Thanks for the heads up. I need my 36, so it's a no go. Anyways for the price it's not worth it, cheaper to keep replacing the cable every few months. I like the x9 derailleur, its just a pain to keep replacing the cables. I carry a spare whenever I ride, I got caught once 10 miles out with a broken cable, never again....

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by rfxc View Post
    Just a heads up, that X01 10 speed option can handle at most an 11-28 cassette- designed for dh. It won't handle the 11-36 found on most 10 speed bikes.
    Wow good catch. I figured since this was offered in medium and short cage versions, it could handle 36 in a 1x10 configuration.

    I'm curious though, has anyone had this cable issue with an XX1, X01 or X1 derailleur?

  45. #45
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    It s a conspiracy by the cable manufacturers. Make weaker cables, sell more cables.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by M0riarty View Post
    Wow good catch. I figured since this was offered in medium and short cage versions, it could handle 36 in a 1x10 configuration.

    I'm curious though, has anyone had this cable issue with an XX1, X01 or X1 derailleur?
    this summer I switched to Sram X1 1x11 on my 6" bike ( which had broken lots of cables when ridden on rough ground, see my "bouncing" theory above).

    I have NOT ( KNOCK WOOD!) broken a cable on the X1-- although I did need to loctite the der in the hanger.

  47. #47
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    We have 4 bikes that run SRAM clutch drls. Two 11 speed and two 10 speed. Both 10 speeds are X9 and and the cassettes are 42T (Wolftooth) high gears..

    Only one bike is breaking cables and it is the 26" wheeled SC Nomad. The other 10 speed is on a 29'er HT.

    Maybe the cables are too weak for the stress?

  48. #48
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    This is correct. Other manufacturers go to great lengths to avoid having the cable make contact with anything other than the cable housing to avoid friction. Wrapping the cable around the end of the derailleur body is not a low friction design, especially off road with mud and gritty water. I wish I had noticed this design on the X9 derailleur when I purchased my bike. It works adequately when the derailleur body is clean, but works horribly or not at all when the derailleur body becomes dirty. I am swapping it out.
    Quote Originally Posted by mikeoffroad View Post
    Its a problem with SRAM's design. The cable rides over a derailleur cam and constantly goes through tight bending as you shift, causing cyclic fatigue. Only option is to inspect it carefully and often and replace when a single strand is broken

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickter View Post
    This is correct. Other manufacturers go to great lengths to avoid having the cable make contact with anything other than the cable housing to avoid friction. Wrapping the cable around the end of the derailleur body is not a low friction design, especially off road with mud and gritty water. I wish I had noticed this design on the X9 derailleur when I purchased my bike. It works adequately when the derailleur body is clean, but works horribly or not at all when the derailleur body becomes dirty. I am swapping it out.
    It seems mikeoffroad is accurate, nickter less so. The cable doesn't "slide" over the end of the der, rather it just rests upon it over a bend. Now, when the der bounces a
    lot, it does stress the cable where it is resting on that bend. Although my two x9 type 2 10spd rear ders had cables fail at this point, my three xx1 and and x01 rear ders, which also have an "arm" on which cables rests, don't cause cable failure. I'd presume its because the 11spd rear der arm has less of a sharp bend.

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    sliding reply

    Since the cable contact on the derailleur body is between the shifter and the anchor bolt, the bare cable does indeed slide over the derailleur body during shifting - albeit a minute amount. Both Shimano and Campagnolo have no such contact area with the derailleur body.

    Quote Originally Posted by rfxc View Post
    It seems mikeoffroad is accurate, nickter less so. The cable doesn't "slide" over the end of the der, rather it just rests upon it over a bend. Now, when the der bounces a
    lot, it does stress the cable where it is resting on that bend. Although my two x9 type 2 10spd rear ders had cables fail at this point, my three xx1 and and x01 rear ders, which also have an "arm" on which cables rests, don't cause cable failure. I'd presume its because the 11spd rear der arm has less of a sharp bend.

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