I need a picture of the bottom of the bottom bracket. After having a tire blow up on me Saturday, I flipped the bike over to pull the wheel off. While upside down, I noticed the RD cable had cut a deep grove in the bottom bracket. So much that I was afraid it would open a hole into the BB shell.
I need a picture of the bottom of the bottom bracket. After having a tire blow up on me Saturday, I flipped the bike over to pull the wheel off. While upside down, I noticed the RD cable had cut a deep grove in the bottom bracket. So much that I was afraid it would open a hole into the BB shell.
I wanted to see if something came there stock. I can't believe that the big S would let a cable rub against the frame this badly. There is a screw there that hold a cable guide for the FD. It would have been easy to extend that to cover the cable for the RD as well.
I need a picture of the bottom of the bottom bracket. After having a tire blow up on me Saturday, I flipped the bike over to pull the wheel off. While upside down, I noticed the RD cable had cut a deep grove in the bottom bracket. So much that I was afraid it would open a hole into the BB shell.
Bearings are shot BUT it was my fault . When I installed that stem I got from you, I tightened down the top cap too tight. Essentially my bearings lived a short life due to the amount of strain on them. I have a new set on order and they should be here soon.
BTW, I talked to Mark Taylor the other day :thumbsup:
JakeWake said:
Can you tell me what bike you are referring to? Do you have a photo? This is by no means correct. It sounds like your housing shifted or is too short.
Bearings are shot BUT it was my fault . When I installed that stem I got from you, I tightened down the top cap too tight. Essentially my bearings lived a short life due to the amount of strain on them. I have a new set on order and they should be here soon.
BTW, I talked to Mark Taylor the other day :thumbsup:
2006 Stumpjumper. FD cable has a cable guide that screws into the BB shell. RD cable doesn't and it has been chewing away at the BB shell badly.
The problem is that your rear shifter cable is too short, or has slid back. When the rear suspension is bottomed out, you should still have enough rear shifter cable under the BB that it just barely clears the BB shell. At no time should it be rubbing or wearing against the BB shell.
Bearings are shot BUT it was my fault . When I installed that stem I got from you, I tightened down the top cap too tight. Essentially my bearings lived a short life due to the amount of strain on them. I have a new set on order and they should be here soon.
BTW, I talked to Mark Taylor the other day :thumbsup:
2006 Stumpjumper. FD cable has a cable guide that screws into the BB shell. RD cable doesn't and it has been chewing away at the BB shell badly.
This thing with the BB, perhaps you can find a welder locally who can run a bead where the cable has worn away the shell. Then I'd cover the repair with BBQ paint.
Glad to hear the HS wasn't a frame problem too.:thumbsup:
The picture doesn't show exactly how bad it is. I was going to remove the FD anyways to complete my Stumpy transformation to 1x9. The FD came off along with the left side shifter and cable. The cable guide was not going to work for the RD cable housing though. I modified a reflector mount and attached it to the bottom of the BB shell.
While working on this, I realized I had a new problem. I tried to remove the crankset to remove the granny ring but the drive side crank would not come out of the BB. After some research I found that the plastic collar on the crank shaft breaks and get stuck inside the BB. This is a common problem and Truvativ just sends out a replacement crankset.
I never could understand why the base Stumpy FSR had a continous cable housing, while the upper end models used cable stops on the downtube and chainstays for the rear derailleur. I've noticed that my RD cable moves around alot, even with new zip-ties.
I never could understand why the base Stumpy FSR had a continous cable housing, while the upper end models used cable stops on the downtube and chainstays for the rear derailleur. I've noticed that my RD cable moves around alot, even with new zip-ties.
The RD cable was rubbing the paint near my headtube as well. I put a clear protective sticker to prevent it from removing any more paint. The FD cable got cable stops so why didn't the RD cable?
The RD cable was rubbing the paint near my headtube as well. I put a clear protective sticker to prevent it from removing any more paint. The FD cable got cable stops so why didn't the RD cable?
Cables rubbing the HT is common on all bikes, and clear stickers are a good solution. A better solution is to route the right shifter around the left side of the HT, and the left shifter around the right side of the head tube. This is how the bike should have been assembled out of the box.
Specialized uses full housing on the rear derailleur to protect it from contamination and keep it shifting nicely for a much longer period. This is especially valuable in wet areas.
It sounds like your cable slid around. You need to be sure there is enough slack under the BB to keep it from rubbing. Be sure your zip ties are tight. You can even add a zip tie or two to be sure nothing moves.
Don't worry about the groove that has been worn. I know it is unsightly, but it is not a strength problem. Just adjust the cable to prevent further wear. Whatever you do, don't have it welded like someone previously suggested.
Cables rubbing the HT is common on all bikes, and clear stickers are a good solution. A better solution is to route the right shifter around the left side of the HT, and the left shifter around the right side of the head tube. This is how the bike should have been assembled out of the box.
Specialized uses full housing on the rear derailleur to protect it from contamination and keep it shifting nicely for a much longer period. This is especially valuable in wet areas.
It sounds like your cable slid around. You need to be sure there is enough slack under the BB to keep it from rubbing. Be sure your zip ties are tight. You can even add a zip tie or two to be sure nothing moves.
Don't worry about the groove that has been worn. I know it is unsightly, but it is not a strength problem. Just adjust the cable to prevent further wear. Whatever you do, don't have it welded like someone previously suggested.
This is not cable rub on the headtube. This is cable rub on the downtube, near the head tube. There is enough slack in the cable there that it lays against the downtube.
If Specialized uses full housing to protect it from contamination and keep it shifting nicely, why wouldn't they have done the same for the FD cable?
As long as the cable rub didn't penetrate the BB shell, then I am not worried about the groove. A fix is in place to cover it from additional wear.
CHSAD said:
Off topic: What kind of tires are you using lumbee?
Cable friction comes from contamination inside your housing. Water and dirt get into cables worst when you have UPward facing cable stops. The front derailleur is bare wire all the way from the DOWNward facing stop at the head tube. It is tough to get water to move upwards into the housing. Plus the front derailleur is designed for bare wire, unlike the rear. On the other hand, when we used short pieces of housing under the BB and at the CS to rear derailleur, these would get contaminated very easily.
if I could find my digicam I could show you the bottom of my 07 rockhopper because they do have something on under the BB to route the cables and keep it off the frame.
Ok I manage to get a picture of the bottom of my 07 Rockhopper. it was taken with my camra phone so it is not the best but it does show you how the cables are done on the 07 Rockhopper.
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