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  1. #1
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    Taking a specialized brain apart

    Taking a specialized brain apart-p5170501.jpgTaking a specialized brain apart-p5170502.jpgTaking a specialized brain apart-knipsel.jpg
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  2. #2
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    Taking a specialized brain apart

    I want to take my specialized brain from my Epic from 2013 apart to repear.

    I am quite far but I am stuck with the housing of the brain. I think you can seperate the lower housing from the top at the red arrow in my picture, but itīs really stuck or it canīt be done. Hope someone knows.

    I tried to put it in a vise with a rubber tube around and tried to seperate it with an oil filter tool, so I had leverage but with all force i have i can not get it off.

    Is it possible to seperate them, and if so how ? With heat ? Is there locktide between?

  3. #3
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    You might try asking in the suspension forum as there're a number of sus gurus there who might be able to help.
    Do the math.

  4. #4
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    A lobotomy....

    Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

  5. #5
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    The upper and lowers are screwed together to about 30Nm, hard to undo. You'll need two chain whip wrenches and something to protect the aluminium from scratching, doubtful strap wrenches can get them undone.

    The two halves clamp the inertia assembly in position, failure to do them back tight will allow the inertial mass to spin, and then brain fade adjuster will do nothing.

  6. #6
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    OK, thanks,

    Mine makes a squiching sound, so i think oil and air are mixed.

    Do you know which part has failed, seems to be a known problem.

    Or can you tell if there are any o-rings why I should get the part above apart. Or that I don't have to undo them because there are no servable parts under it ?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by suspensioncenter View Post
    OK, thanks,

    Mine makes a squiching sound, so i think oil and air are mixed.

    Do you know which part has failed, seems to be a known problem.

    Or can you tell if there are any o-rings why I should get the part above apart. Or that I don't have to undo them because there are no servable parts under it ?
    The only answer is a full rebuild, yes you need to get it all apart, including the hoses off. Every O-Ring needs to be replaced

    You need to vacuum bleed. You'll need to make a vacuum bleeding rig and an adapter to screw into the bleed port of the brain fade adjuster shaft.

    It's not easy. Or quick.

  8. #8
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    Taking a specialized brain apart-p6060309.jpgTaking a specialized brain apart-p6060316.jpg

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    As you can see I finally managed to get the mass out. But I am stuck again because this black cap won't come of. There is a thread in it so assume it can be un done.
    Are there any o-rings underneed that I should renew ? Or can I leave this black cap for what it is ?

    Also do you know the IFP depth ?

  10. #10
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    You don't need to pull the inertia mass apart further. The O-Ring on its circumference is all you need to replace.

  11. #11
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    IFP depth I do have a document somewhere, will find it this weekend. But not critical, get it close to bottoming out.

    How do you plan to bleed?

  12. #12
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    No sure yet but want to fill the demper body and vacuüm the hose at the brain site till oil comes out, and fill up the body to the neck. Than put the demper together again. Than fill the brain without the ifp in and put it back together. Than try to get all air out with a mithyvac, by getting out the sir and putting in oil.

    But that's what i have in my head, don't know if it will work out that way.

    Any suggestions ? Or what goes wrong in my plan ?

  13. #13
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    With the mightyvac on the bleedport on top of the brain.

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    Also have bought a bleed adapter for talas/brain but i think that is the one for bleeding the type IV and will not work on this one

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    Show me the bleed adapter you have.

    Yes you need to bleed via the brain fade adjuster shaft, grub screw holds in a ball bearing.

    You can fill with oil and assemble but will need to add oil. You'll need a reservoir of oil above the shock, in line with your vacuum line to let the oil fall in/sucked in and air to rise out. The hole in the shaft is so god damned small you need a good vacuum, you need to get close to -1bar to be able to bleed properly. Mark the brain fade adjuster with the bypass value in its largest position so you bleed with it fully open.

    Only stroke the shock with no vacuum applied or air will get in via the main seal. You need to stroke it repeatedly to bleed. A hand dyno is a must.

  16. #16
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    Why does it need a vacuum? I've never done a brain shock - but it appears to be the same idea (sort of) as most remote res. shocks I have rebuilt. Can you not remove the IFP out the bottom of the reservoir (brain)? Should be pretty straight forward using the typical fill method for RR shocks if you can. Basically just fill with the brain at the highest point and cycle a few times to get the air out. Then overfill the upside down brain with the main body at ~75% extension, press in the IFP and it'll be almost totally air free. I've done this many times on large motorsport size shocks. What am I missing from the brain shock that makes it different?

  17. #17
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    This is my bleed rig, I first vacumed from the hose before I put the brain back on. Than put the brain on and filled it without the IFP till the neck. Than put in the IFP and vacumed again. Pushed the IFP a little up to see if air comes out of the bleed port, and it dind't so I assume it went well

  18. #18
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    Taking a specialized brain apart-p6120352.jpgTaking a specialized brain apart-p6130356.jpgTaking a specialized brain apart-p6130357.jpgTaking a specialized brain apart-p6130358.jpgTaking a specialized brain apart-p6130359.jpgTaking a specialized brain apart-p6130360.jpg

  19. #19
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    I have the IFP about 1,3 cm deep is that OK, see picture belowTaking a specialized brain apart-p6130361.jpg

  20. #20
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    Can you also tell me what the nitro fill pressure is ?

  21. #21
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    13mm from the end of the reservoir? If so, no, it needs to be a few mm from the deep end where it almost touches the inertia assembly, it needs a lot of room for travel. IFP depth is too shallow it can be fatal, you will damage parts as oil has nowhere to go. If too deep it will bottom out on the inertia assembly when IFP is pressurised. If slightly too deep over spec it changes the spring curve so slightly you will not notice, pressure has a much bigger influence then depth on characteristics.

    Charge to 250psi, 300 if you can. If you find it too firm, go to a softer brain setting instead of dropping IFP pressure. Higher IFP pressure will help prevent main seal letting air past as its more balanced.

  22. #22
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    IFP depth is 33mm as per the attached


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