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  1. #1
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    SX TRAIL 2008 - rear shock bolt keeps losening

    hi guys,
    i have an SX TRAIL 08 for about a month, and i find out that after each ride i make, even the shortests i find freedom in the rear shock mount bolt, i cleaned the area, and applied the blue loctite i usually use on every bolt to date, and it didnt have any trouble keeping the threads locks together until i met this rear bolt,

    should i use a stronger loctite?

    what would you guys recommend?
    i have attached a picture of the problematic area, you can see the loctite just broken and the bolt unscrewed itself abit,

    thanks

    Eli.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SX TRAIL 2008 - rear shock bolt keeps losening-p1010030.jpg  

    Last edited by katsooba; 12-01-2009 at 02:50 PM.
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  2. #2
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    It looks like the nut is tight against the blue link and therefore will rotate as the link moves up and down. If the shaft (the part that the nut screws on to) can not rotate along with it, the nut will loosen. Look for binding between the shaft and the shock bushings.
    To avoid injury, do not ride with your eyes closed

  3. #3
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    One other thought, if the shaft has a shoulder on it to press against the inside of the blue link, you may need to tighten the nut more to get the shoulder to seat against the link and prevent relative rotation.
    To avoid injury, do not ride with your eyes closed

  4. #4
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    I will ask my buddy what was the prob with his. His 08 did the same however I haven't had an issue with mine. ............nv just got off the phone with him and he was missing a washer. He had the problem log enough and tighted it so many times it damaged the bearings on that side and had to replace them.
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  5. #5
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    Hi billee and CW, thanks for the replies,
    what you both actually said is the same,
    i need a spacer

    do you know what kind of spacer i need?
    cause im afraid the LBS mechanics dont know as much as i thought, they keep telling me to tighten it.

    thanks again for the help!

    Eli
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  6. #6
    dirt visionary
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    Call specialized let them know and maybe they will send out a new set for you. Otherwise any washer that would fit would work . I am sure there is one on the lower eye on the link also.
    Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of
    arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body.

  7. #7
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    Search this forum. There was a guy with a similar problem a while back. The shoulder on the nut was wrong or something like that--allowing the nut to rub on the link as others have stated. If you can find a spacer/washer that will fit that should fix it. It would have to fit tightly over the shaft and touch only the inner-race of the bearing and the shoulder on the nut so a little filing might be needed. Or just have Spec send you a new nut.

  8. #8
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    hi WaveDude!
    i found the thread you told me about Sx Trail 2008 lower eyelet knocking
    and i read through it, yet i didnt find any decisive answer, is there nothing i can do on my own to fix this problem?
    the man on the thread said he had to wait for two months untill a relacement bolt was sent to him,

    is that my only choice?

    thanks again! im just afraid that if i ride like this more i will just hurt the axle,
    ill head to my LBS asap to resolve this problem, i just hope they wont try the regular "we put loctite on it, there you go"
    because that doesnt help!

    thanks again

    Eli.
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  9. #9
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    The answer is in there along with pics (at least of their problems which sound like yours as well). The nut was contacting the llink. Fix is to either make a small washer like Code47 did; Grind a bit off of the nut where it's rubbing; or get with Spec to give you a new nut and maybe pivot axle. It seems like they know of the problem or should by now. I'm guessing they had a few nuts made out of spec.

    Have you taken the nut off to see if you have any shiny spots on it where it is wearing from contacting the link.

    Adding loctite and tightening is not the answer. If that's the LBS response, find another one.

  10. #10
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    I had to make a new spacer in the center of the shock eye and a new washer for one of my customers that had the same problem , its not that bad to do , ------where are you located at ?
    There has got to be somebody that can do this simple stuff for you ----------I do this kinda all the time for guys .

  11. #11
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    hi kelstr!
    thanks for the reply, i am located at Israel,
    i am working in a CNC workshop, if you could just tell me what you did, im sure i could copy it,
    i have the SX TRAIL part list from the Specialized website, i just dont seem to understand where the spacer and washer should go on the bike,

    any pic? drawing ?

    i know what the LBS answer is going to be, i will go visit them tomorrow just for warranty issues, so they wont tell me that i do stuff by myself, but if i can fix the problem by myself , i will!

    any tips?

    thanks
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by katsooba
    hi kelstr!
    thanks for the reply, i am located at Israel,
    i am working in a CNC workshop, if you could just tell me what you did, im sure i could copy it,
    i have the SX TRAIL part list from the Specialized website, i just dont seem to understand where the spacer and washer should go on the bike,

    any pic? drawing ?

    i know what the LBS answer is going to be, i will go visit them tomorrow just for warranty issues, so they wont tell me that i do stuff by myself, but if i can fix the problem by myself , i will!

    any tips?

    thanks
    I was hoping you were close to me and we could fix it quickly -------oh well ----, but you working at a machine shop can easily fix that bad boy .
    I do not know what I would do without my lathe, mill and welders ----------I just do not see how anybody runs anykind of a shop without equipment.

    Anyway ------if you just take the bolt out of the shock and the cone spacers and washers you will see that the bolt is to tighten up the shock eye against the bearings but leave just enough clearance for the link to move freely but without binding and or affecting the tightened nut.

    You will more than likley have to make a spacer and or washer to get the set up to work -------its no big deal .

    Just take your time and really study how its put together and you will see how it works --------some of the links were alittle thick and some of the washers were machined alittle to thin and you are clamping the links down before the spacers and or washer locks the bearings together .

    I do not particualy like the set up , but it works when you get the correct thickness spacer and or washer that will tighten up the shaft against the bearings and leave clearance in the links .

  13. #13
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    CNC shop! Damn dude--you can build yourself a whole new bike. Get after it.

  14. #14
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    thanks guys

    i hope it will come down to fitting a spacer between the nut and the bearing,
    i dont wanna mess with the inner parts, altough i could copy them if something happened.

    i already took the shock off a few times to replace the spring on the shock, so i know how it looks all disassembled, takes about 2 mins to everything back together,

    the bike is only one month old, bought new from the Spec' LBS , so i guess if they dont agree to replace the bolt under warranty, i will have to do the mods.

    i wish i knew what it takes to build a bike but im happy with my Enduro SL and the SX TRAIL

    btw, i took this pic from the thread i mentioned above


    this is how the bolt looks at my bike aswell, is that normal ?
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  15. #15
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    Yep her , -----you will more than likey have to make a spacer to extend that left hand cone out tward the nut to keep it from binding the link ---------its not a big deal .

    Hell I made some billet aluminum links with bearings in the links and made a new bolt, spacers and washers out of TI for my buds SX trail ,

    This was to fit his Elka shock with TI spring with the nice bearing assembly for the spring pad to twist on .

    Really worked nice .

    So I know you will make your assembly work just fine !!

  16. #16
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    good to hear maybe ill copy the bolt and make everything TI aswel! great idea!

    btw kelstr, is your buddy liking the Elka?

    i thought about changing the shock to Elka stage 5, can you give me some input about that ?

    thanks!
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  17. #17
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    The elka was easier to valve for him -------I had to re-valve it twice to get it perfect for him , -----I finally got the fox correctly valved for him , ---but I had to make a new piston because the stock piston would not flow enough oil for him , ----but after that it worked great ------he just wanted the elka to try it , and it worked out once it was set up for him ----( but then again once the fox was set up it worked great also .)

  18. #18
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    i guess that the Elka was better performing for him out of the box because they make it something like 90% custom fit for the person and bike,
    and the fox has a 1 setup has to fit all kind of way, but having it PUSHes brings it closer in performance to the Elka,

    wish i was living somewhere near you kelstr, seems like you are something like a super bike-mechanic or something

    maybe you know another issue i found with the SXT suspension?

    when i sit on the bit, and then stand up from it, it looks like the shock never fully extends, only when i lift the seat a little it extends and extra few mm.

    i find it weird because the shock should fully extend after it compresses. no?
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  19. #19
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    And to directly answer your question--that bolt does not look normal. Start by making a simple washer/spacer to put under the nut--maybe only 1mm thick--and see how that goes. I would also say push this with the LBS and Specialized as you're obviously not the first person to have this issue.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by katsooba
    i guess that the Elka was better performing for him out of the box because they make it something like 90% custom fit for the person and bike,
    and the fox has a 1 setup has to fit all kind of way, but having it PUSHes brings it closer in performance to the Elka,

    wish i was living somewhere near you kelstr, seems like you are something like a super bike-mechanic or something

    maybe you know another issue i found with the SXT suspension?

    when i sit on the bit, and then stand up from it, it looks like the shock never fully extends, only when i lift the seat a little it extends and extra few mm.

    i find it weird because the shock should fully extend after it compresses. no?
    Alot depense on your spring rate and what you run your race sag at , -------if your spring is to stiff and you have to loosen it up too much to get your race sag the bike will have to much free bike sag .
    you might have binding in the shock eye bolts and its causing stiction, ---or you may have some stiction in the shock itself or rear trialgle-------( I have had to machine alot of shock pistons down to cure stiction in some shocks if its really bad when hot )----------------if the bike is really new the shock could be just not worked in and slightly sticky and cold ----cold is never good ----always set race sag with the bike all warmed up really well .

    There are alot of reasons that its doing that .

    The first thing you need to do is make sure there is no binding in your ft shock mount and then repair your stack height of shimming to you rear mount and get all that tight and moving freely -----and make sure you rear triangle moves through the travel freely and go from there on resetting your race sag with the shock warmed up and see where your numbers are on race sag vs free sag .

  21. #21
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    thanks guys!
    i will go today to the LBS and ask for a warranty bolt replacement!
    i hope they will grant my wish, if not, ill CNC a washer for it, although i dont see how it could cure the case of the shock eyelet eating away the bolt shaft,
    could it be that the OD of the shaft is too thick? thats what causing everything ? even by 0.001 mm ?
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  22. #22
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    The shaft is being eaten away because it is not being clamped/held-in-place as it should be. When installed and working properly, that shaft DOES NOT ROTATE inside the shock eye and the nuts don't contact the link anywhere. Since they don't move, they will not be "sanded" away. All rotation is handled by the quad-bearings.

    You say you've pulled the thing apart before. Obviously if your pivot bolt is wearing it's moving when it should not be. Have you looked for any signs of wear along the outer "rim" of the nut where it contacting the link? It will show up as a shiny ring with the anodizing worn off and you might see some wear on the link as well.

    If you find signs of that and since you have access to a machine shop--take that nut and a 6-pack to one of your lathe operators. Chuck the nut up and have them face an additional 1mm off of the outer rim--LEAVING the original shoulder untouched. Basically you'll end up with a shoulder-nut with a shoulder protruding 1mm further than it does now. Or make a 1mm spacer as described. The idea is to keep the nut from contacting the link. Might as well look at the opposite end of the pivot shaft too since it has a similar shoulder. Only the inner portion of it should touch the bearing and nothing else should touch.

  23. #23
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    hey guys,
    i have an update for you lot

    i managed to fix the problem by making some spacers, i made a few, just in case
    but all i needed is one!

    all fixed now, having a serious ride on the bike and nothing seems to come lose

    here are some pics

    will update after a few more rides
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails SX TRAIL 2008 - rear shock bolt keeps losening-09122009461_1.jpg  

    SX TRAIL 2008 - rear shock bolt keeps losening-09122009462_1.jpg  

    SX TRAIL 2008 - rear shock bolt keeps losening-09122009463_1.jpg  

    SX TRAIL 2008 - rear shock bolt keeps losening-09122009465_1.jpg  

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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by katsooba
    hey guys,
    i have an update for you lot

    i managed to fix the problem by making some spacers, i made a few, just in case
    but all i needed is one!

    all fixed now, having a serious ride on the bike and nothing seems to come lose

    here are some pics

    will update after a few more rides
    There you go , I knew you could do it !!!-------Its nice to be able to do it on your own and not have to mess with anybody else.
    I just can not believe guys get along in life without a Mill,Lathe, one 3 Axis machine , and several welders , and lots of Raw Material-------------I mean its gotta be impossable to get anything done

  25. #25
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    Exactly. I cracked the downtube on my S-Works the other day and instead of taking it to the lbs for a warranty claim I just milled my own molds, laid up the carbon then baked it in my autoclave. :P

    Can't wait for my extrusion machine and spoke making mill to get here.
    09 Stumpjumper FSR Expert Carbon | 09 S-Works Enduro SL Carbon

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