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  1. #1
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    Swapping Sram S2200 cranks vs. S-Works Carbon Cranks - question

    Hi, i want to change the Sram S2200 crankset of my wife`s epic expert to a s-works carbon crankset. Do i have to change the PF30 bearings and cups as well? Or do i just have to insert cranks with spacers and thats it? Thanks.

  2. #2
    old fart
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    I've not donethe change myself, but the bearings and cups will stay. The issue will be getting the spacers and seals right for the Epic. I assume you have the Spec documents on the SW crank?

  3. #3
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    My LBS gave me all spacers they usually use for fitting s-works cranks to an epic so that shouldnt be a problem. They also told me that i most probably would have to change cups and bearings. I just want to confirm this in order to avoid work/efforts which is not necessary. They were not sure about that.

  4. #4
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    Swapping Sram S2200 cranks vs. S-Works Carbon Cranks - question

    Have you definitely got all the spacers listed in this manual?

    http://service.specialized.com/colla...G0276_revF.pdf

    Have a look at the posts from #162 onwards in this thread too:

    Epic S-Works 2013

    thegallery was swapping in the opposite direction (S-Works carbon crank to XX1 BB30 cranks) and had some issues.

  5. #5
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    I did the same thing on my SJ Expert Carbon 29. No need to change out bearings or cups. You're bike shop is shady.

  6. #6
    old fart
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    Quote Originally Posted by S-Worker View Post
    My LBS gave me all spacers they usually use for fitting s-works cranks to an epic so that shouldnt be a problem. They also told me that i most probably would have to change cups and bearings. I just want to confirm this in order to avoid work/efforts which is not necessary. They were not sure about that.
    No, as you already have the PF30 cups & bearings, you will be fine. I'd probably change the bearings as a matter of course while you have the crank out - but if they don't feel notchy, don't worry...

  7. #7
    J-Flo
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    I'm trying to install an S-Works crankset (new version) in a 2014 Epic Expert WC, to replace the stock S-2200 crankset. Since we recently replaced the BB on this bike (it currently has a SRAM PF 30) I thought I could leave that alone, and install the new S-Works crankset with the existing BB. It's not working.

    I followed the instructions to the letter, except did not replace the existing SRAM PF 30 bearings and cups. According to the instructions, nothing fancy is needed in the way of spacers. Just a two piece thin spacer/seal for the drive side and a three piece conical adjuster/seal for the non-drive side. The instructions are here http://service.specialized.com/colla...0030806_R1.pdf.

    I took out the SRAM PF 30 seals and installed the new crankset using the S-Works seals, since they are integrated into the aluminum spacers. But I have about 2mm of lateral play after installation, even with the conical adjustment spacer at its max setting.

    Looking at the BB cups, I see the Specialized PF 30 BB has a square edge and the SRAM version is concave/tapered inwards. A caliper reflects that the installed BB bearings are only about 70mm apart -- should be 73mm, no? Does this mean the existing BB was installed wrong/bearings pushed too far in? Or is it simply a difference in where the bearings sit in the cups? I also note that on the drive side, when the crank is pulled in tight the bearing seal looks a bit squashed inward inside the PF 30 cup. But the chainline in this position is close to exactly the same as on the prior setup (0.20mm difference).

    Bottom line, I need advice. Should I just find a 2.5mm spacer for the non-drive side and be done with it, or should I take out the SRAM PF 30 BB (which seems to be in perfect condition) and replace with the Specialized PF 30 BB? Thanks.

  8. #8
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    I did exactly the same conversion with a 2015 Stumpy Exp WC HT and the new Sworks crankset.
    I just dismounted the stock 2200 crankset, mounted the New Sworks crankset with the spacers which came with the Sworks crankset and it fitted perfectly until today. And this is also what my LBS told me - just swap crankset using the Sworks crankset spacers.

  9. #9
    J-Flo
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    Thanks S-Worker Hmm, sounds like perhaps my existing BB bearings are pressed too far inboard (is that even possible?). I don't have any other explanation for why mine doesn't fit. The main bolt is torqued to spec.

    S-Worker, I assume you are referring to the same spacers I describe? My S-Works crankset did not have any simple "spacers"; on the drive side there is just a thin metal piece (no more than 1.5mm) that fits into the seal, and on the non-drive side there is a conical spacer that mates to the seal and an adjuster. Is that all you have also?

  10. #10
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    I haven't had a lot of luck with the SRAM PF30 BB on my '11 SW Epic - and went alloy (Wheels BB). I would recommend going with the Spec BB as you have observed a difference. Bottom line with PF30 though, those spacers they give you in the pack are there for a reason, you want 0mm end float but DONT want to put axial pressure on the bearings. One of the advantages the Wheels BB, apart from it being alloy is that its bearings are axially rated, so can take some end load.

    On my bike, from new, the BB was wrong, and I lost my first set of bearings in about 200kms. I ended up experimenting a LOT with different setups, and struggled with the RHS crank striking the chain stay under load - including the large metal spacer that Spec had for the XX chain rings. It didn't really come right until I put the Wheels unit on it.

  11. #11
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    I have all stock spacers shown in the related speci manual. I can send pics this afternoon after work. Or just refer to the manual.

  12. #12
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    This seems to be a good match for your issue, and fix indeed seems to be the cups and bearings:
    SPECIALIZED | 2014 S-Works Crankset on 2014 Epic Carbo...

  13. #13
    J-Flo
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    Thanks. Went to talk to some experts today (at the LBS). They said the SRAM PF30 design has the cups recessed a bit farther in the frame, so that the bearings end up less than 73mm apart at the outside, and the S-Works crank system is designed for exactly 73mm width. So the solution, for me, is to replace the SRAM PF30 BB.

    S-Worker, it is a mystery why you did not have this problem, as we are doing exactly the same thing. Perhaps your PF30 BB is not pressed in as far.

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