Suggestions to shave 4-5 pounds off my bike: 08 Rockhopper Comp
I am a total noob as I just acquired a 2008 Rockhopper comp (pretty much STOCK) off my coworker. I want to hit the trails around San Diego and would like this bike to be a little bit lighter. Right now it is close to 30 pounds and I want it to be at around 26 but I don't know what parts to replace to get it there. I don't want to spend exorbitant amounts of money to do so but if you guys can give me suggestions I can look on ebay for used parts.
stock specs from specialized.com
FRAME: M4 manipulated alloy frame, butted ORE DT, forged dropouts w/ replaceable 98954020 alloy hanger, disc only
REAR SHOCK: N/A
FORK: RockShox Tora 302 SL, 100mm, 32mm Cr-Mo stanchions and alloy steerer, Mag lower, coil spring, preload adj., LO w/ reb. adj.
HEADSET: 1 1/8" threadless
STEM: Specialized 3D forged alloy, four bolt, 31.8mm, 7 degree rise
HANDLEBARS: Specialized alloy butted 31.8mm XC rise w/ graphic, 640mm wide, 8 degree back, 8 degree up sweep
TAPE/GRIPS: Specialized Enduro, dual density Kraton
FRONT BRAKE: Avid BB-5, mechanical disc, 6" G2 Clean Sweep rotor
REAR BRAKE: Avid BB-5, mechanical disc, 6" G2 Clean Sweep rotor
BRAKE LEVERS: Avid FR-5
FRONT DERAILLEUR: Shimano Deore FD-M530, 34.9mm clamp
REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano Deore RD-M531, SGS cage
SHIFT LEVERS: Shimano Deore SL-M530 trigger
CASSETTE FREEWHEEL: Shimano HG-50, 9-speed, 11-34t
CHAIN: KMC X9, 1/2" x 3/32" w/ reusable Missing Link
CRANKSET: Shimano FC-M442-8, replaceable rings w/ alloy outer, Octalink Spline
BOTTOM BRACKET: Shimano BB-ES25, Octalink spline, cartridge bearing, 68 x 118mm for 50mm chainline
PEDALS: Specialized alloy 1pc body and cage, 9/16"
RIMS: Specialized/Alex RHD 26, double wall, eyelets, for disc brakes
FRONT HUB: Specialized Hi Lo disc, 28h, CNC flange and disc mount, polished races, alloy QR
REAR HUB: Specialized Hi Lo disc, cassette, 32h, CNC flanges and disc mount, polished races, alloy QR
SPOKES: 1.8mm (15g) stainless, alloy nipples
FRONT TIRE: Specialized Fast Track Control, 26x2.0", DC, 60TPI, 2Bliss ready aramid bead
REAR TIRE: Specialized Fast Track Control, 26x2.0", DC, 60TPI, 2Bliss ready aramid bead
TUBES: Specialized schraeder valve
SADDLE: Specialized Indie XC, 143mm width
SEAT POST: Specialized butted alloy, two bolt micro adjust head, 30.9mm
SEAT BINDER: Specialized alloy w/ QR, brass washer
NOTES: Chain stay protector, reflectors, clear coat, owners manual
Wheels, tires/tubes, air fork, and crankset are probably going to be your best individual parts swaps to drop weight.
I've got a spreadsheet at home that has the weights of the majority of the stock parts that came on my '09 Rockhopper Comp Disc and can post them up for you later if you want so you can compare weights on the parts you're looking to replace.
any brand names to suggest?
for the wheels, the lighter ones means you can't be making jumps right?
I think wheel durability vs. weight will depend largely on how much you want to spend, how much you weigh, and the type of terrain you're riding. If you weigh 250#, put the absolute lightest weight XC rim on your bike, and are routinely doing 5' drops to flat or are hammering 6" sharp angle rocks they probably won't last very long.
I'd hit the individual parts forums for specific recommendations based upon you weight, priorities of weight vs. durability vs. budget, and the type/style of riding you're doing.
Personally I'm looking at DT Swiss 5.1 rims w/ XCR hubs from bicyclewheelwarehouse.com when I replace my wheelset. Not the lightest option available, but I'm more interested in getting a wheel that will last a while, stay true for me, and be of appropriate width for the larger volume tires I am running than having the absolute lightest rim available.
Shock wise, I wound up going w/ a 2009 Reba Race Dual Air. A couple of cheaper options from RockShox that will still save you a decent amount of weight are the Tora 318 Solo Air or Recon Solo Air.
Last edited by Sid Nitzerglobin; 10-25-2010 at 01:09 PM.
The easiest way to drop 4.5 lbs is to upgrade to a Stumpjumper.
Originally Posted by erichwic
Not only the easiest way but probably the cheaper way as well.
Crash Test Dummy
If you are new to the sport and not that fit, it might also be cheaper (and very healthy) to lose some weight from the engine as well.
Originally Posted by 2Slo4U
Originally Posted by PVR
Too lose that much weight off the bike, you'll spend the same amount of money as you would if you simply bought a nice used higher end bike that is also lighter in weight.
Default reply: DJ, thanks for your reply!
He could build up the current bike and then upgrade frames later, but to lose that much weight would be pretty expensive.
I dropped 4lbs from my 29er by getting a set of Stans Flow rims w/ZTR hubs and going tubeless. I'm sure the weightloss will be slightly less with a 26"er but its a start... and its rotating mass so matters alot.
Going to a lighter airfork like a Reba will likely give you almost a pound.
I've got a 29" Hardrock that weighed 32 lbs and some change... Its 26 lbs 4oz now with Flows/ZTRs(tubeless), Reba SL, Stylo 1.1(1x9), MG1s, Ergos, Sram PG980, Sram X7 shifters and short cage derailer, and a little fang chain keeper.
You started out lighter, you should be able to get into 26 lbs pretty easily I'd think...
I converted my 29er RH to a SS replaced the hanldebar and the stem and my RH weights in at 27#'s right now. Replacing seat post with carbon, fork with reba XX and replacing the breaks with Hygia Usagi. That should put me under 25#'s. I'd be happy with that.
Now like the others said. You save the most weight on the Wheels/tires, cranks and fork. So it is up to you to do your homework on what's gonna be good for you. Bc it goes with where and how you ride. Looking at buying a lighter bike at once is a good option unless it is something you plan on doing a bit latter. It is always good to have a backup bike. Good luck.