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  1. #1
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    Stumpy FSR Shock Linkage

    I have an 06 Stumpjumper FSR that came with an 07 Brain Fade. I started going through shock bushings fairly quickly (2 in 300 miles). In 2007, the FSR got a revamped shock linkage. Does anyone think that the 07 linkage will fit the 06 frame ?

    Steve

  2. #2
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    07 no better?

    Quote Originally Posted by Steverod23
    I have an 06 Stumpjumper FSR that came with an 07 Brain Fade. I started going through shock bushings fairly quickly (2 in 300 miles). In 2007, the FSR got a revamped shock linkage. Does anyone think that the 07 linkage will fit the 06 frame ?

    Steve
    I don't know if the 07's are any better than the 06's. Did they replace just one of the bushings? Did the same one fail again?

    I bought an 07 Stumpy Expert in January. I have over 2000 miles on it and had 2 bushing go a week apart. The shop ordered a bushing kit and is replacing all of the bushing under warrenty.

    My mechanic said that if 1 bushing fails and you continue to ride you will put additional strain on the remaining bushings. So they are replacing them all.

    Are any other Stumpjumper owners having problems with failed bushings?

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steverod23
    I have an 06 Stumpjumper FSR that came with an 07 Brain Fade. I started going through shock bushings fairly quickly (2 in 300 miles). In 2007, the FSR got a revamped shock linkage. Does anyone think that the 07 linkage will fit the 06 frame ?

    Steve
    I made some measurements a couple months ago and it will not fit. Everything about the new link is completely different.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brainstump
    I don't know if the 07's are any better than the 06's. Did they replace just one of the bushings? Did the same one fail again?

    I bought an 07 Stumpy Expert in January. I have over 2000 miles on it and had 2 bushing go a week apart. The shop ordered a bushing kit and is replacing all of the bushing under warrenty.

    My mechanic said that if 1 bushing fails and you continue to ride you will put additional strain on the remaining bushings. So they are replacing them all.

    Are any other Stumpjumper owners having problems with failed bushings?
    I think 2000 miles for the bushings sounds OK. BTW how do you know when they've gone? - I've only done 500 miles on my Expert, so far bushings and bearings are fine.

  5. #5
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    06 Bushings

    My lower shock bushing went at about 120 miles and then again at 300 miles. I understand these things are designed to wear, but it should last more than several weeks.

    I am riding aggressively. I have the shock pressure set according to the manual. I just hate to be on the beater more than I have to.

  6. #6
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    Aftermarket Bushings ?

    Thanks mopartodd. Maybe I can find some aftermarket bushings with better quality control.

  7. #7
    thecentralscrutinizer
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    Yeah maybe. If you do, post what you find out.
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  8. #8
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    I also have the '06 FSR with an '07 AFR on it. I found the rear shock squeaked incessantly, so I greased the pivots. I understand you're not supposed to grease pivots with bushings, but it made a huge difference. I really worry that the '07 AFR just isn't designed to work on the '06 frame. Have you hade any trouble with yours squeaking?

  9. #9
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    Squeaking FSR shosk bushings

    Quote Originally Posted by jhair
    I also have the '06 FSR with an '07 AFR on it. I found the rear shock squeaked incessantly, so I greased the pivots. I understand you're not supposed to grease pivots with bushings, but it made a huge difference. I really worry that the '07 AFR just isn't designed to work on the '06 frame. Have you hade any trouble with yours squeaking?
    I bought in eBay a 06 S-Works with 07 AFR (latest model: silver with 50-60 clicks) and shock also squeaked, I fixed it with a couple drops of Teflon Oil in the shock bushings.

    What is the problem with grease/oil in bushings??

    How do you know that bushings have to be changed??
    Last edited by Spaceman-Spiff; 06-18-2007 at 10:21 AM.

  10. #10
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    Squeaking is first sign of trouble

    The sqeak started at the lower shock eyelet. Couldn't tell if it was the bush or the linkage itself. Noise got louder over successive rides and then squeaked all the time.

    After three weeks, I noticed a slight play. If you hold the bike by the seat and slowly lift up, you may notice some vertical play. I didn't see any horizontal play. I torqed the bolts according to the manual, but no luck. Turns out the bushing needed to be replaced.

    They should last at least a season. After the second bush went not too long after the first one, I got mad.

    I ordered a BETD link (in red) last week with replacement bush and 8 mm bolt. It should be here this week. I'll post my findings when everything is set up. Not a cheap route, but having the 07 AFR Brain Fade on an 06 SFR puts you in a unique situation.

  11. #11
    I'm Idaho!
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    Where can you buy new Stumpjumper bushings online?

  12. #12
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    I believe the problem with grease/oil in the bushings is that it attracts dirt, which accelerates the wear on a sensitive part. Unlike a chain, it's quite difficult to frequently degrease and re-lube the shock bushings when they get dirty, since that basically requires disassembly of the frame. Further, it's my understanding that a properly fitted bushing will simply not require lubrication and the fact that it's squeaking when brand new is probably an indication that it isn't a proper fit for the frame.

    Steverod23 - are you sure that the BETD part you ordered will fit your '06 frame? I wasn't aware they made parts for the '06 frames. I've heard some horror stories about people ordering the wrong parts from BETD and basically getting stuck with them because of issues with international shipping. If it does fit I'd be really interested to know. That's the main weakness in the 2006 frame vs. the 2007. I'd probably be willing to drop a little cash for a linkage that didn't require as much servicing. It wouldn't hurt if it was anodized red either ;-)

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaceman-Spiff
    I bought in eBay a 06 S-Works with 07 AFR (latest model: silver with 50-60 clicks) . . .
    I thought that 50-60 clicks is characteristic for early models AFR.

  14. #14
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    Early vs actual AFR shocks

    Quote Originally Posted by xbiker
    I thought that 50-60 clicks is characteristic for early models AFR.
    According this thread, early AFR are golden finish and 25 clicks, and newer AFR are 50-60 clicks and Silver finish.

    Problems with AFR rear shocks

    Can somebody confirm it????

  15. #15
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    BETD Link for 06 FSR

    I can confirm that the BETD link they have listed on their website for the 05 FSR does fit the 06 frame. It will not fit the 07 frame. It was expensive and I read the same posts regarding poor customer service. I took the risk and am pleased with the results. Dan over at BETD was helpful and response time was a few days between email exchanges. I ultimately called UK and asked all the questions before i ordered. Part arrived within 10 days. If I had to send something back for an exchange, my experience may not have been as good.

    There is a caveat: The line connecting the brain to the shock is too short in both the 120mm and the 150mm BETD link settings. I had two options. Find a way to replace the line with one about 1.5 inches longer or make a simple bracket extension that moves the brain itself closer. I went with option 2 (Sears hardware had simple bracket that I cut down to size).

    I chose the 150mm setting on the link. Geometry of bike was altered enough for me to notice. BB height increased which for me was a good thing. Head angle also changed slightly. I had a Fox 100 RL and decided to go with a new TALAS to offset the rear end change. The TALAS was a planned upgrade for me - it just happened sooner than I expected. As soon as the bike is back from LBS with the new fork, I'll take pictures end reevaluate the ride.

    FYI, I have the silver 07 AFR Brain fade and am still playing around with the air pressure. Before BETD link, it was 185 lbs. After link, 200 Lbs but still experimenting.

  16. #16
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    Anyone fitted a RP23 (200mm) to a 07 Stumpy FSR? Triad is 196mm.

    Does it foul link?

    Cheers

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikertroid
    Anyone fitted a RP23 (200mm) to a 07 Stumpy FSR? Triad is 196mm.
    Does it foul link?
    There is a full thread about this subject:

    RP23 Recplacement on SJ Continued

  18. #18
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    Spaceman,

    unfortunately that thread is referring to the 06 model. So not exactly the thread or answer I was after!

    Thanks anyhow!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steverod23
    I took shock apart on Sunday and there is a space reducer on each side of the lower shock eye all held together with a 6 mm bolt.
    From what I could see the shock eye is 15 mm in diameter and the reducers are slightly smaller than 15 mm. I used a caliper and they looks like 14.5 mm.
    Looks like in Stumpjumper 06 S-Works with 07 AFR the Lower Eyelet shock bushing is not dimensioned for this AFR shock and may wear more quickly. I am not an expert, but I would say that to work properly, the Shock Lower Eye bushings should be made so:

    * Bushings external diameter is selected to fit tightly inside the shock eye so bushing does not rotate inside the Shock eyelet.

    * Bushing Internal diameter is selected so that the 6mm bolt (that holds the shock to the FSR Link) goes trough the bushings inner hole and when there are trail bumps, 6mm bolt rotates inside bushing inner hole, which has self-lubricating properties and reduces friction, and there is a very small wear in bushing inner hole walls.

    But if bushing external diameter is too small (14.5 mm diameter), bushing is not held tightly inside shock eyelet (15mm diameter) and when there are trail bumps bushing rotates inside shock eyelet, and bushing external wall is not designed for friction and wears very quickly.

    Fix for this would be to find or custom made a properly dimensioned bushing for Lower shock Eyelet, and may be for Upper Shock Eyelet too.

    Is there anybody with more knowledge about bushings and their requirements, and can he/she give a more professional opinion and explanation and correct me if I am wrong.

    You guys in USA (I am in Spain) can contact Specialized and get the right dimension so we can custom build these bushings.
    Last edited by Spaceman-Spiff; 06-21-2007 at 10:49 AM.

  20. #20
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    Spaceman,

    contact BETD, as they will no doubt be able to supply some 'Hula Hoops' and steel inserts which are much harder wearing than the stock ones. If the sizing is unusual, they may make some custom ones for you.

    Also try using the Spesh mud flap which guards the shock from much of the crud.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikertroid
    contact BETD, as they will no doubt be able to supply some 'Hula Hoops' and steel inserts which are much harder wearing than the stock ones. If the sizing is unusual, they may make some custom ones for you.

    Also try using the Spesh mud flap which guards the shock from much of the crud.
    Mike, thank you for the information, I just sent a note to BETD, now, let's wait.

    I ride in a dry climate (Spain Mediterranean coast), not too much mud here...

  22. #22
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    I'd be very interested to hear if BETD can supply you with a bushing that would provide a better fit for the AFR on the '06 frame. If so, I'll definitely order one. Based on the description you gave in your earlier email, I wonder if cranking the heck out of the bolt that connects the shock to the frame (not the linkage) would bend the frame a bit to provide a tighter connection and improve the bushing wear.

    Steverod: How is the 150mm linkage combining with the Talas? I have a Talas on my bike as well, but I find that I use the 120mm setting on the Talas almost exclusively because the 140mm setting slows my steering down too much on the twisty singletrack around here. It seems like the 140 front/150 rear combination might be ideal, but I don't want to feel like I'm riding too much of a pogo stick!

  23. #23
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    06 Stumpy S-Works w/ 07 AFR Squeaking noise fix

    I own a 06 Stumpy S-Works with a 07 Specialized AFR fitted by an eBay seller, and my shock had a squeaking noise that disappeared by pouring an oil drop in shock lower bushing.

    My earlier description of the problem on this thread was based on information from another forum member, but now, I took apart my shock lower eyelet and I am providing first hand description of the problem. While taking it apart I found the following:

    * Lower Shock eyelet is 15 mm diameter and has two reducers from 15 mm to 8mm, to fit the 8mm bolt. Shock + Reducers width is 16 mm

    * M8 bolt length (without Allen head) is 42 mm and has 21 mm no threaded and 21 mm threaded

    * M8 bolt has a length of 21 mm without threads, but shock bushing needs 26 mm (10 mm Right side FSR Link + 16 mm shock bushing width), this means that the left shock bushing is rotating around the threaded part, and this is not good.

    * Shock only has reducers, to reduce diameter from 15mm Eyelet to 8mm bolt, but it does not have bushings. A correct assembly needs a bushing (Cylinder 15 mm external diameter, 1.2mm wall thickness made of low friction self-lubricant material), and two aluminium reducers from 12.6mm to 8 mm Bolt. (12.6mm = 15mm – 1.2mm – 1.2mm).

    I am doing these changes:

    * New bolt M8 x 60mm ISO 912 inox, cut to 42 mm and thread mechanized 3 more mm to get 26 mm no thread + 16 mm thread. (An easier solution could be to cut bolt to 45mm and add washers in right side)
    * Add bushing
    * Add reducers

    Cost so far is 6 Euro, but I am still waiting for the reducers. Hopefully this will fix the squeaking noise and the quick wear. As soon as I have completed the fix I will take pictures and post in the forum.

  24. #24
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    My lower shock bushing story

    I'm not sure I'm answering anyone's specific question, but I thought I'd chime in with my 2004 Stumpy FSR lower shock bushing issues.
    Developing some play in rear shock Specialized Stumpjumper
    Developing some play in rear shock Specialized Stumpjumper
    I bought the bike new in '05 and after a season and a half I developed play in the lower shock link. While I ordered a new set of bushings and reducers, I ended up actually upgrading the shock to the RP3 and just saved the new bushings for down the road. Only about 6 months later I was developing play again at the lower shock link. I thought that was a super short lifespan of the bushings, but I have replacements so whatever. Then, only a month or so later I began developing play again. Now come to find out the lower shock bolt, the screw that actually mounts the shock to the rocker arm of the frame, has been sheared in half. I go to the LBS and he digs through the parts bin and finds me a similar but not identical bolt to replace it with. The difference is that it had more threads on it with a shorter collar, so the threads of the bolt were actually contacting the bushings rather than the bolt collar. I didn't like this setup but I couldn't find the proper bolt at the hardware stores, either. Pardon the pun, but it was a very specialized bolt.... Less than a week later the lower link is going to shat again so I take it in to LBS and they discover the rocker arm is cracked at the weld. So I order up a new rocker arm and FSR bolt replacement kit. Also a full FSR bearing replacement kit. Since the rocker arm was not warranteed because Specialized said I broke the bolt which meant I must have used the bike beyond its designed capacity, this was over $100 worth of parts. The new rocker arm required a larger diameter bolt than the original, and thankfully the bolt kit included the new larger bolt. I suspect this was a redesign due to others having a similar issue. Thankfully I could use the reducers from the old stock shock to mount up the new rocker arm. The bolts on both the upper and lower shock mounts are now the same diameter.

  25. #25
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    I saw an ad in eBay, where a guy is selling a 04 Stumpjumper that was modified by a PUSH employee (Eric) to add custom needle bearings to the Shock Lower Mount, Interesting...

    Does anybody know how this can be done???

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by storm1234
    I saw an ad in eBay, where a guy is selling a 04 Stumpjumper that was modified by a PUSH employee (Eric) to add custom needle bearings to the Shock Lower Mount, Interesting...

    Does anybody know how this can be done???
    I would think you could just replace the reducers with bearings.
    They have been labeled as shock bushes in this pic. You would need bearings with the same diameter. Or maybe even get rid of the shock bushing (eye bush in pic), too, and find a bearing that would press into the shock.

  27. #27
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    I discovered today that the lower shock BOLT on my '05 fsr expert is slightly bent. I am a bit of a hammer but I only weigh 155 lbs. This bike, collected dust in a friends garage until I bought it in october of last year - it can't have more than 100 trail miles on it at this point.

    Any sources for a stronger bolt ?

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli
    I discovered today that the lower shock BOLT on my '05 fsr expert is slightly bent. I am a bit of a hammer but I only weigh 155 lbs. This bike, collected dust in a friends garage until I bought it in october of last year - it can't have more than 100 trail miles on it at this point.

    Any sources for a stronger bolt ?
    I had no luck with getting the proper bolt with the correct collar (section w/o threads) length at several hardware stores. I guess I would suggest the LBS get it from Specialized. The Specialized FSR bolt replacement kit, which includes the replacement for your bent bolt as well as every other bolt for the rear suspension linkages, was a little over $20 from my LBS. So don't let them tell you it is a $20 bolt when you can get the whole kit for that.

  29. #29
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    2006 STUMJUMPER S-WORKS with 2007 AFR shock....GOOD DEAL???

    My brother wants a new frame and is looking at this one:

    http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-Specialized-...QQcmdZViewItem

    Looks like some of you have bought this frame from the same guy already. How is it working for yall? Let me know if he should get it or not.

    THNX

  30. #30
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    Honestly, I would stay away unless you already have all of the other parts and just want to transfer them to the frame. Building the bike yourself if you buy all the parts new won't be cost effective. Plus, the fit of the AFR shock to the 2006 Frame is not quite right. I've finally gotten mine to where I'm pretty happy with it after lots of work and a replacement shock from specialized, but it cost me as much as a comparable bike fully built with a warranty (that frame has no serial number and won't be warrantied by specialized).

    By the way, the stumpjumper with the brain shock is an incredibly nice bike. I'd highly recommend it (especially purchased new from your LBS).

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ewarnerusa
    I had no luck with getting the proper bolt with the correct collar (section w/o threads) length at several hardware stores. I guess I would suggest the LBS get it from Specialized. The Specialized FSR bolt replacement kit, which includes the replacement for your bent bolt as well as every other bolt for the rear suspension linkages, was a little over $20 from my LBS. So don't let them tell you it is a $20 bolt when you can get the whole kit for that.
    Hmmm. I can see where this is going. A few more rides and the shock bushing will develop an egg shaped hole. I was hoping to get away with a new bushing and a stronger bolt - Ti, aircraft grade or something like that. So I guess its keep replacing oem bolts and bushings or get the aftermarket linkage... ?

    I'm really surprised at how fast it went from no play to having play.

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli
    Hmmm. I can see where this is going. A few more rides and the shock bushing will develop an egg shaped hole. I was hoping to get away with a new bushing and a stronger bolt - Ti, aircraft grade or something like that. So I guess its keep replacing oem bolts and bushings or get the aftermarket linkage... ?

    I'm really surprised at how fast it went from no play to having play.
    I think your predictions of what may happen are right on the money. An aftermarket bolt sounds like a good idea, I have no idea where to look for things like that though. I too was surprised how fast my shock went from new bushings to developing play. But I think it was accelerated by reusing the old bolt.

    My new Specialized rocker arm uses a larger diameter bolt than the original did. I think it is actually just the rocker arm from the FSR 120 rather than the 100 which my bike is. The little diagram that came with the replacement bolts listed a smaller bolt for the 100 and the larger one for the 120. The bike rides great now, I'm not sure if that 120 vs 100 rocker arm makes any difference in bike geometry.

  33. #33
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    I too rider the 06 sworks stumpy with the 07 afr shock. I replaced the lower eyelet bolt with an M8x55 titanium bolt from racebolts.com which has a 32mm shoulder. So I bought a 6mm spacer from aluminum-spacers.com with a 12.9mm outer diameter (same size as the bolt head) and then had my lbs press in a du bushing and proper reducers. So far no issues and no squeaks.

  34. #34
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    I am having the same lower shock eye bushing wear issue with my 04 SJ FSR. They seem to wear out after a few rides and the bike has also gone through two sets of drop-out and shock link bearings and is working on its third set in less than 2000 mile of riding. Fox says the reducers need to be changed out with the bushings however I believe the quality of the materials used in the bushing and reducers can not take the load and movement at the lower shock eye. A design flaw. Compared to the upper shock eye, which has not shown any signs of wear to date.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwalton
    I am having the same lower shock eye bushing wear issue with my 04 SJ FSR. They seem to wear out after a few rides and the bike has also gone through two sets of drop-out and shock link bearings and is working on its third set in less than 2000 mile of riding. Fox says the reducers need to be changed out with the bushings however I believe the quality of the materials used in the bushing and reducers can not take the load and movement at the lower shock eye. A design flaw. Compared to the upper shock eye, which has not shown any signs of wear to date.
    Have you looked into changing the rocker arm to the 120 version? Like I mentioned, the 120 version uses the same diameter bolt in both the upper and lower shock eye. I have been riding my setup for around a month so far. Too early to be certain, but it certainly seems more stout.

    On another note, have you ever changed the bearings from the lower/rear portion of the chain stays of the FSR linkage? I ask because you mention changing out some other linkage bearings. Those lower ones are an absolute pain and I was wondering if you had an easy strategey for next time I do mine.

  36. #36
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    I've gone through 3 lower bushings, and 2 bolts this year on my 06 SJ. They quickly develope play again, and I say screw it and ride it until it breaks the bolt. Teflon coated crap.

  37. #37
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    1) Where do you buy a 120mm shock link for a 04 SJ with 100mm of travel? Did your 05 SJ come with 100mm link?
    2) Does the 120mm shock linkage accept the standard 6.5” x 1.5” sized shock?
    3) You mentioned that you upgraded your shock to a Fox RP23-how does the RP23 feel compared to your OEM shock? My Float R with pro-pedal worked fine for my first year of riding but is in real need of rebuilding after almost 2000 miles on the odometer. Originally I wanted to buy a Triad but was unable to located one.
    4) I have never changed out the BB-chain stay 6802RS sealed bearings yet-they seem to hold up quite well due to they size. I would imagine you would buy a short 15mm bolt (M15) and use a stack of 15mm flat washers (like the bearing spacer washers at this main pivot) fitted against the bolt head. Insert the bolt head in the inside 6800RS bearing race with the washers and bolt head on the frames bore stop side and on the opposite side put the new bearing over the bolt and a deep well socket. The loose bearing will not allow the socket to slip out of alignment when you press the bearing out of the BB frame bore with a large C-clamp. I would press the new bearing into the BB bore with the M15 bolt along with the old bearing on the bolt head side and up stacked next to the new bearing. String the bolt through the bore and place a large flat washer up against the outside of the bore stop and install a M15 nut on the bolt. Slowly tighten down your homemade press until the new bearing seats against the bearing bore’s stop. Make sure the bearing presses into the bore without binding and test it by turning the bearing with you finger—it should be smooth not rough. Remember to torque the BB pivot bolt to spec. otherwise you will put too much side load on the bearings and wear them out prematurely. Note; the shock link bearings are change in the very same manner and drop-out bearings can be changed out per my instructions that I posted on a Drop-out question a member had a few days ago.
    5) The new 07 SJ frame addresses some of the weak design issues that you and I are contending with 1) the shock link has larger upper shock link bearings 6800RS (however the lower bearing are the same 6802RS). 2) The lower shock eye is now guided by SMALL sealed bearings in an axel and bolt assembly that is fastened to the shock link in lieu of the bushing and reducer assembly on the older frames and the current FSR XC frames. 3) The pass-through seat post is a one pieced forged unit as opposed to the four-pieced welded unit on the older frames. 4) The shock link is a two-pieced forge unit assembled together with the lower shock eye axel and bolt and a second bolt and spacer assembly along with the 4- bearing bolts. This new unwelded shock link on paper will yield much better bearing race alignment. 5) the beefed up chain stays and seat stays (with larger cross sections) and the asymmetric chain stays that are unfortunately welded together (potential for bearing alignment issues) should yield a much stiffer rear triangle . Also the disc brake mounts have been substantially beefed up too.

  38. #38
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    ewarnerusa; as posted above my 04 SJ FSR has the same lower shock eye bushing wear problems as you are having with your bike.
    1) Are you certain that the new shock link that Specialized supplied you is for a 05 SJ FSR with 120mm of travel? The reason I question this is because I read on Specialized Tech Support page that the 120mm shock link will not fit on a 100mm frame. If the 100mm and 120mm shock links are not interchangeable than Specialized has either supplied you with the incorrect part or has supplied you with an upgraded part at your cost (i.e. a link that should of been recalled and replaced by Specialized not you, the end user). How is the new link holding up? Have you seen any wear in the lower shock eye bushing yet?
    2) I just sent my OEM Fox Float R rear shock to Fox for servicing. I am also purchasing a full set of DU bushings and reducers from them too. All total-this will set me back at least $100.00 assuming there is noting major wrong with my shock, which sticks down in its compression stroke after about a minute of riding. How do you like your RP3 and how does it compare to your OEM shock, which is either a Float R or Triad?

  39. #39
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    The lower shock eyelet bushing wears very fast in all Stumpy models up to year 2006. Specialized knew about this problem and fixed it in year 2007 models by using 2 BB in lower shock eyelet, no more bushing.

    There is a Spanish parts supplier (AMACHETE) that is selling a Needle Bearing Kit that fits in the lower eyelet, and does not wear as quick as the bushing, all bikers that are using it are very happy with this solution. I am including a link that shows it, text is in spanish, but you can look at the pictures or learn spanish, he, he.

    http://www.agachaelomo.com/index.php...ic=659.msg8141

    He is selling this Needle bearing kit that includes also seals, bolt...
    Last edited by Spaceman-Spiff; 08-21-2007 at 07:59 AM.

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by bwalton
    ewarnerusa; as posted above my 04 SJ FSR has the same lower shock eye bushing wear problems as you are having with your bike.
    1) Are you certain that the new shock link that Specialized supplied you is for a 05 SJ FSR with 120mm of travel? The reason I question this is because I read on Specialized Tech Support page that the 120mm shock link will not fit on a 100mm frame. If the 100mm and 120mm shock links are not interchangeable than Specialized has either supplied you with the incorrect part or has supplied you with an upgraded part at your cost (i.e. a link that should of been recalled and replaced by Specialized not you, the end user). How is the new link holding up? Have you seen any wear in the lower shock eye bushing yet?
    2) I just sent my OEM Fox Float R rear shock to Fox for servicing. I am also purchasing a full set of DU bushings and reducers from them too. All total-this will set me back at least $100.00 assuming there is noting major wrong with my shock, which sticks down in its compression stroke after about a minute of riding. How do you like your RP3 and how does it compare to your OEM shock, which is either a Float R or Triad?
    1) I do not know if my shock link is the 120mm version. I only assumed so because the installation instructions, which were generic for either model, stated that the 100mm version would use the same smaller diameter bolt as before and that the 120mm flavor used a larger one. The one I installed required the larger one. It fits fine, I would certainly say it was the correct dimensions for the frame. Fits the 6.5" shock. Your theory of Specialized supplying me an upgraded part at my cost sounds most likely. So far I have not detected any wear or play. I got the new part from my LBS who were trying to warranty it for me but had no luck. It was like $45 or something, plus I bought a full set of FSR bearings for another $45 and a FSR bolt replacement kit for $20. These are guesses at what the actual prices were, but close enough. It was a little over $100 for everything. I assume that the rocker arm is a part that must be ordered through the bike shop. There are aftermarket versions from BETD, I've seen a thread on them here on MTBR.com.

    2) I love the RP3! I bought it fall '06 directly from Push Industries. They had a special for brand new never used Fox RP3's with custom Push tuning for $250. I figured since the shock itself was normally something like $300 and the Push tuning another $150, this was a great deal. It has been great so far, although the three settings aren't vastly different from each other. It does stiffen up in the full pro-pedal position, although it certainly isn't a lock-out. It feels great though and with a smooth pedaling motion I get no bob. Middle setting is similar to the Float R I suppose, and it does open up more in the open setting. It is a bit of a long reach down there to flip the switch on the fly, but life is tough sometimes....


    I struggled to follow your bearing removal idea. The problem with the rear bearings (not the one's near the BB) is that the bearings can't be pressed out from the opposite side via the outer race. I was wrong and the bearings are on the seat stays, not the chainstays. There is a spacer between the bearings that is part of the frame.
    04 SJ bearings
    04 SJ bearings What happened to me (and others in this thread) was that one of the bearings comes apart while removing from pushing it out with all the force on the inner race. The outer race remains stuck in the frame. So the guy's strategy in this thread was to then rebuild the bearing while in the frame and then press it out from the other side. I couldn't get the bearing put back together, so I used a hammer and punch to knock out a small section of the spacer to access the stuck outer race and knock it out from the other side. Lot's swearing and cringing as I pounded on my frame. His strategy seems good to use from the start. Unfortunately I found the thread after I already had the race stuck in the frame.
    Last edited by ewarnerusa; 08-21-2007 at 09:12 AM.

  41. #41
    thecentralscrutinizer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaceman-Spiff
    The lower shock eyelet bushing wears very fast in all Stumpy models up to year 2006. Specialized knew about this problem and fixed it in year 2007 models by using 2 BB in lower shock eyelet, no more bushing.

    There is a Spanish parts supplier (AMACHETE) that is selling a Needle Bearing Kit that fits in the lower eyelet, and does not wear as quick as the bushing, all bikers that are using it are very happy with this solution. I am including a link that shows it, text is in spanish, but you can look at the pictures or learn spanish, he, he.

    http://www.agachaelomo.com/index.php...ic=659.msg8141

    He is selling this Needle bearing kit that includes also seals, bolt...
    That's a nice set-up. I'd like to try that on mine and see how it holds up. as it is, I'm removing and cleaning the bushing about every 100 miles at the most. Sometimes more often with as dry as it has been around here this summer.
    2015 Kona JTS
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  42. #42
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    Does anybody have the link to Amachete web site or a US distributor? The one problem with needle bearings is the side load. I bought a needle bearing kit to replace my dropout bushings in my 99 SJ FSR years ago, and that kit (from Mountain Speed) used urethane plate or washer bushings on each side of the needle bearing to take up the side loads. The bushings and the bearings never wore out (in over 2,500 miles) so the system was very durable.

  43. #43
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    AMACHETE Needle Bearings

    Quote Originally Posted by bwalton
    Does anybody have the link to Amachete web site or a US Distributor?
    AMACHETE is is a small company located in Madrid, Spain. They do not have web page nor US distributor, but you can contact them: amachete1@hotmail.com

    They may be on vacation until September.


    http://www.agachaelomo.com/index.php...ic=659.msg8141

  44. #44
    thecentralscrutinizer
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spaceman-Spiff
    AMACHETE is is a small company located in Madrid, Spain. They do not have web page nor US distributor, but you can contact them: amachete1@hotmail.com

    They may be on vacation until September.


    http://www.agachaelomo.com/index.php...ic=659.msg8141
    Thanks. I shot them an email.
    2015 Kona JTS
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  45. #45
    West Chester, PA
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    Today I finally found a supplier near my home that sold me a bag of class 12.9 (highest grade for metric bolts) M8 allen head bolts with shoulders 5-6mm longer than the oem bolt.

    I think these stronger bolts with longer shoulder will alleviate the bolt bending that leads to quicker deformation of the eyelet bushings.

    I've just installed a new bushing and bolt on my bike and heading out to ride. I'll post pics of the bolts later.


  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by 92gli
    Today I finally found a supplier near my home that sold me a bag of class 12.9 (highest grade for metric bolts) M8 allen head bolts with shoulders 5-6mm longer than the oem bolt.

    I think these stronger bolts with longer shoulder will alleviate the bolt bending that leads to quicker deformation of the eyelet bushings.

    I've just installed a new bushing and bolt on my bike and heading out to ride. I'll post pics of the bolts later.

    Nice, keep posted. I have noticed the start of some play in my rear linkage.

  47. #47
    West Chester, PA
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    Here's pics of the new bolts I obtained. So far I have about 60 hard miles on the new bolt - its still straight and the new reducer has no play yet. New bolt is black, old bolt chrome.

    As you can see, the shoulder goes all the way across the gap yet the head of the bolt does tighten against the link - if it didn't 1 slim washer could fix that. On the other side the bolt has some extra length sticking out, but it does not protrude outside the edge of the link. It poses no threat of tearing me up in the event of a crash.







    These new bolts are the highest grade. The guy at the supplier looked at the original bolt and said it was very low quaity even though it was chromed.

    I had to buy a bag of 50 of these so if anybody wants any feel free to contact me. Just be aware you'll also have to buy a new reducer for the best results.

  48. #48
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    Which fork to match the increased rear travel?

    Quote Originally Posted by Steverod23
    I can confirm that the BETD link they have listed on their website for the 05 FSR does fit the 06 frame. It will not fit the 07 frame. It was expensive and I read the same posts regarding poor customer service. I took the risk and am pleased with the results. Dan over at BETD was helpful and response time was a few days between email exchanges. I ultimately called UK and asked all the questions before i ordered. Part arrived within 10 days. If I had to send something back for an exchange, my experience may not have been as good.

    There is a caveat: The line connecting the brain to the shock is too short in both the 120mm and the 150mm BETD link settings. I had two options. Find a way to replace the line with one about 1.5 inches longer or make a simple bracket extension that moves the brain itself closer. I went with option 2 (Sears hardware had simple bracket that I cut down to size).

    I chose the 150mm setting on the link. Geometry of bike was altered enough for me to notice. BB height increased which for me was a good thing. Head angle also changed slightly. I had a Fox 100 RL and decided to go with a new TALAS to offset the rear end change. The TALAS was a planned upgrade for me - it just happened sooner than I expected. As soon as the bike is back from LBS with the new fork, I'll take pictures end reevaluate the ride.

    FYI, I have the silver 07 AFR Brain fade and am still playing around with the air pressure. Before BETD link, it was 185 lbs. After link, 200 Lbs but still experimenting.
    Just got my new linkage from BETD and installed it on my 06 Stumpjumper FSR with the 150mm setting . The fork I have now is a 120mm Fox Float, and since the bike geometry was altered, would upgrading to a 140mm Fox Talas be wise?

  49. #49
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    I was coming from a 100mm fork, so the BETD link at 150mm alteration was too drastic which is why I had to go with a new fork with more travel.

    Of the three Talas settings, I never use 100. I do find myself flipping between the 120 and 140 settings frequently up front depending on the terrain. I would say ride the Float you have and get used to the difference in riding capability the BETD link offers If it doesn't handle well for you, then go with the Talas.
    A journey is best measured in friends rather than miles

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steverod23
    I was coming from a 100mm fork, so the BETD link at 150mm alteration was too drastic which is why I had to go with a new fork with more travel.

    Of the three Talas settings, I never use 100. I do find myself flipping between the 120 and 140 settings frequently up front depending on the terrain. I would say ride the Float you have and get used to the difference in riding capability the BETD link offers If it doesn't handle well for you, then go with the Talas.
    Thanks

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