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  1. #1
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    Stumpjumper FSR (2007) Bearing Replacement

    Hiya, I am in the middle of replacing the bearings, I've taken all the old ones out and am ready to fit the new ones. On the rear pivot, there are two bearings each side - spaced apart by a shoulder in the casting, so one bearing is pushed in from each side. In between the bearings I found a washer/spacer. It is a chamfered spacer as used to good effect on the other suspension bearings, but in this case it just sits loose between the pair of bearings. So here is my question. The washer is a loose fit all three ways, loose in between the bearings, outer diam just smaller in diameter than the recess, and inner diam just bigger than the inner diam of the bearing. The only purpose it seems to serve was to make it VERY difficult to get my bearing extractor in between the bearing to pull the first one out. (The second can then easily be pushed out)
    What are they for?
    Should I put them back?
    Thanks...

  2. #2
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    What did you end up doing on this? I'm trying to decide if I should put it back in either, seems pointless...

  3. #3
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    Purchase a wedge anchor or sleeve anchor at a hardware store that will snuggly fit inside the bearing race. You may need to wrap the anchor's expandable sleeve with aluminum foil to get a snug fit before it is tighten down. Pull or drive one of the drop-out bearings out of its bore once the wedge anchor is tighten up against the inside race. I have described this procedure many times so search this forum for more detail--good luck.

  4. #4
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    Thanks for this tip on removal, though this issue is concerning assembly. Specialized left one of the little tapered washers between the double bearing that just rattles around in there, seemingly pointlessly. Anyways, I decided to leave it out, guess I'll find out at some point if that was a bad idea.

    Thanks!

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  5. #5
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    When you tighten the retaining bolt up it will clamp the center races against the washer. If you leave it out there is nothing holding the two sides apart.

  6. #6
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    The aluminum rail (groove in the frame) that is between the bearings is wider than the washer, so the bearings are spaced further apart than the width of the washer. It just rattles loose in there. The OP describes the same situation. Perhaps it is only on the 2008's or something.

    Er...the OP is a 2007, so it must be more common.

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  7. #7
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    1. Make sure you are not using a spacer from another pivot you serviced. 2. The spacer should be the same width as the drop-out stop/bearing shoulder. If not, the bearings may not be pressed completely into to their bores or the stop was damaged when the bearings were broken-out of their bores instead of pulled-out. Also verify that the bearings are not skewed in their respective bores. Either way the spacer is required to bridge the clamping bolt load across the inner races otherwise you will introduce side loads in the bearings, which will quickly destroy them in a few rides.

    Use a metric nut and bolt (that fits into the I.D. of the inner bearing race), your old sealed bearing as a make-shift drift-pin press guide and washers with large out-side diameters (that protrude beyond the outer bearing race) to press your new bearings into the drop-out bores. Also add a small amount of grease to the bores and tighten the bolt slowly to insure the new bearing is not skewed. Good luck.

  8. #8
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    Ah, OK. That makes sense. When I took the bolt out originally that washer was moving freely, but I see now how the inner races do actually get a side load from the tapered washers on the outside. Thanks for clarifying that. So it looks like the answer is those washers clamp down once the bolt is tightened up.

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