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  1. #1
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    Stumpjumper Brake Squealing

    I know the older models have been discussed at length but has anyone had a problem with the 2011 or 2012 Stumpjumpers? They both use the same brakes. I saw some nice closeouts on 2011s today. I hate to get a bike that's going to be in the shop more than the trail.
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    My 2012 Stumpy Evo 29 HT has the Elixir 7s. They are loud and vibrate. I have tried it all, dealer has tired too. I am replacing the rotors with Alligators as that is a possible fix. Will see if it works. To be honest, I am used to it but it still sucks. I clean them religiously and they are quite for a bit and then as they get hot and dusty/dirty, gobbling/vibrations start. Wouldn't hesitate to buy the bike again, its worth it even if I have to dump another few hundred in it at some point for new brakes.
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    I never had a problem with the brakes on my StumpJumper, Avid Elixir R's. Having said that, I did put new pads on the rear, went thru the bedding process, and developed a squeal. Removed the pads and rotor, scuffed'em up with some emery paper wiped everything down with alcohol and they haven't made a peep since.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    I have tried it all, dealer has tired too.
    What does this mean? What have you and your LBS tried? I'm only asking because I have a new less then 1 month old Stumpy (2012) that squeals like a pig and the front also vibrates at times. I also don't feel like I really get a lot of stopping power from these 7 SL's. I was thinking about just converting to organic. I know they reduce squealing and grip better. The trade off is frequent replacement. Thoughts?

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    2011 Stumpjumper 29 Comp Aluminum.If the Avids squeal, it may be from vibrations caused by the harmonic in the stays on aluminum bikes. Avid sent a G3SS solid sweep replacement rotor. I bedded it in per their instructions and it is quiet.

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    i replaced the rotors on my '12 enduro with shimano xt icetech rotors and virtually all brake noise is gone. if i am using them a on a long decent, then off them for a bit, when i first start using the brakes again there is a slight squeak but goes away in a few seconds. i am satisfied... oh, also helps with brake fade too.
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    So, it sounds like the consensus is that Yes they still squeal. I really like Specialized but don't want to waste what little time I have wrenching. Any suggestions?
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    I have never and I StumpJumper Avid's Elixir R brake problems. Nevertheless, I put the new pad on the back to the process of bedding, and developed a scream. Remove the sandpaper pad and rotor scuffed'em eliminate all alcohol and they did not peep.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MacinSeed View Post
    What does this mean? What have you and your LBS tried? I'm only asking because I have a new less then 1 month old Stumpy (2012) that squeals like a pig and the front also vibrates at times. I also don't feel like I really get a lot of stopping power from these 7 SL's. I was thinking about just converting to organic. I know they reduce squealing and grip better. The trade off is frequent replacement. Thoughts?
    The first thing we (LBS and I) did was replaced the rear rotor and pads with a new rotor (same HS1) and Avid organic pads. This was per a call to Avid. I bedded the rear in per Avid's directions and got the same result on my next ride - noise/vibration. We replaced both the front and rear pads again with Avid organics and I sanded both rotors down and re-beded them - same result. To me, they stop fine, but they shouldn't feel this way. I am going to try the Alligator Serration rotors this week f/r and see if it helps. If not, dealer is going to call Avid and we will see what they come up with. Finally, I clean the rotors with rubbing alcohol after each ride. They are fine for the first 10 mintues and then it comes back every time.
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    So, it sounds like the consensus is that Yes they still squeal. I really like Specialized but don't want to waste what little time I have wrenching. Any suggestions?
    You can always just have the LBS swap them for something else from day 1 and be done with it. But, not all of them do it - plenty of these bikes never make any noise so it seems to be a crap shoot.
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    have the 2011 SJ FSR Elite (brakes are Avid Elixir R). squeals (usually on the front brake) have been easily fixed by dragging the brake on a long descend or by making a slight adjustment to the brake alignment. also, keep in mind the front disc is relatively large so i've found it's more easily slightly bent after aggressive riding (ie, crashes) which have easily been adjusted in a couple minutes of truing. granted, after a few 'adjustments' the disc needs to be replaced usually. barring those examples, continuing squeals would be more fluke than the norm in my view ... at least with respect to this bike/brake given my experience hasn't had it. in contrast, knew a guy with a high-end Giant xc race bike that howled no matter what he did ... and he was a bike mechanic with tons of experience/knowledge that just accepted it as one of those things sometimes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by weekendthrasher View Post
    have the 2011 SJ FSR Elite (brakes are Avid Elixir R). squeals (usually on the front brake) have been easily fixed by dragging the brake on a long descend or by making a slight adjustment to the brake alignment. also, keep in mind the front disc is relatively large so i've found it's more easily slightly bent after aggressive riding (ie, crashes) which have easily been adjusted in a couple minutes of truing. granted, after a few 'adjustments' the disc needs to be replaced usually. barring those examples, continuing squeals would be more fluke than the norm in my view ... at least with respect to this bike/brake given my experience hasn't had it. in contrast, knew a guy with a high-end Giant xc race bike that howled no matter what he did ... and he was a bike mechanic with tons of experience/knowledge that just accepted it as one of those things sometimes.
    Yes, but the issue isn't just noise, its vibration. I think until people have experienced it, they don't quite understand this issue that seems to be specific to Specialized bikes. I can handle noise, but when its vib'ing badly its quite un-nerving.
    Last edited by TiGeo; 05-09-2012 at 05:38 AM.
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    The Avids that came on my bike, 2012 SJ Evo HT, are crap in my opinion. I swapped mine out after having the rear brake stop working either during a race or shortly thereafter. Once I changed brakes I haven't had any noise or vibration, definitely a worthwhile upgrade.

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    I have the 2012 S-Works epic, bike has SRAM XX world cup breaks. They are now in a box sitting far away from my ears. From day one they squealed and vibrated to the point of embarrassment. I stripped both levers within 5 min of riding, took the bike in to lbs to find another guy with the same busted levers. I now have Shimano XTRs and my god it's like apples to oranges. I will never go back to SRAM.

    The XX SRAM does look good through.

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    Tonytourist,

    What did you switch to?? My Elixirs that came on my Carbon Comp Epic vibrate so bad that I initially thought I broke a spoke. I have sanded, cleaned, cleaned, sanded, etc. Like TiGeo, they are initially better, but within the first 10 minutes, they go right back to the same vibration. They still stop fine and I don't mind the noise, but the vibration is driving me crazy. I am seriously considering swapping them out for Simano XTRs and being done with it.

    SM

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    I got a set of Magura MT2s, since I have had good luck with the Marta SLs on my other mtb. I was definitely thinking about the XT brakes since a friend I ride with has a set and likes them.

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    My 1 month old 2011 Stumpjumper FSR Comp has a bad vibration from the rear wheel. Hope to get it looked at ASAP by my LBS.

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    Take them brakes off and git cha som xt or xtr brakes. But jest one furm warnin' I got ta give ya:

    The first time ya hit them new brakes? Yu's gunna be flyin' thru the air cause it will b the furst time ya ever had brakes on them stumpjumpers.

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    Ive gotten rid of the turkey gobble and shutter on juicy s by using alligators I have a set coming for my elixirs also...
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
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    Quote Originally Posted by rakerdeal View Post
    Take them brakes off and git cha som xt or xtr brakes. But jest one furm warnin' I got ta give ya:

    The first time ya hit them new brakes? Yu's gunna be flyin' thru the air cause it will b the furst time ya ever had brakes on them stumpjumpers.
    Now I know where the Old Coot went after he left Dirt Rag...
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rakuman View Post
    Ive gotten rid of the turkey gobble and shutter on juicy s by using alligators I have a set coming for my elixirs also...
    Great to hear! Mine come tomorrow and I hope they work as well for me.
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    I have a 2011 Giant Anthem X29 with Avid Elixir 5 brakes and had the turkey-gobble and vibration through the frame. Found the below post and followed the directions to the T except reused the stock OEM pads and lightly sanded them. Cleaned disc with brake cleaner. Then immediately broke in the pads per Avid's instructions. Problem entirely went away and have since put on over 400 quiet-brake miles on the bike.

    I read some of the posts by TiGeo about the brake noise/gobble on his 2012 Stumpy so when I purchased a new 2012 Stumpjumper Comp HT 29er, before I ever rode it, I did the Orange CRC Disc Brake Quiet fix on the stock OEM pads. Then immediately broke in the pads per Avid's instructions and have never once had noise/gobble/vibration. Now have 150 miles on the Stumpy. My Stumpy came with Elixir 7SL brakes.

    why do people still use avid brakes?

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    Man, I am all over trying this. Will pick up some brake goo today! I like that he has a theory of why it works as well.
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotoJeff View Post
    I have a 2011 Giant Anthem X29 with Avid Elixir 5 brakes and had the turkey-gobble and vibration through the frame. Found the below post and followed the directions to the T except reused the stock OEM pads and lightly sanded them. Cleaned disc with brake cleaner. Then immediately broke in the pads per Avid's instructions. Problem entirely went away and have since put on over 400 quiet-brake miles on the bike.

    I read some of the posts by TiGeo about the brake noise/gobble on his 2012 Stumpy so when I purchased a new 2012 Stumpjumper Comp HT 29er, before I ever rode it, I did the Orange CRC Disc Brake Quiet fix on the stock OEM pads. Then immediately broke in the pads per Avid's instructions and have never once had noise/gobble/vibration. Now have 150 miles on the Stumpy. My Stumpy came with Elixir 7SL brakes.

    why do people still use avid brakes?

    What was the break in steps that you followed?

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    Quote Originally Posted by EpicFSR View Post
    What was the break in steps that you followed?
    Avid has a procedure for breaking in their brakes - I have the sheet from Avid, just not at work with me. Here are the basics:

    Get going ~12 mph and slow yourself down to nearly a stop, but don't stop! Don't lock up the brakes! Stay seated! Do this ~10 times.

    Do the same thing, except get going ~20 mph, ~5 times.

    Let it all cool down and don't ride it while they are still hot.

    Thats basically it. Its just a method to get an even distribution of brake pad material embedded in the rotors.
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    Quote Originally Posted by EpicFSR View Post
    What was the break in steps that you followed?
    Per Avid's Elixir 9, 7, 5 and Code, Code R User Manual:

    PAD BED-IN
    To safely achieve optimal results, remain seated on the bike during the entire bed-in procedure. Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed, then firmly apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat approximately twenty times. Next, accelerate the bike to a faster speed. Then very firmly and suddenly apply the brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat approximately ten times.
    Important: do not lock up the wheels at any point during the bed-in procedure.
    Allow the brakes to cool prior to any additional riding.

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    Once the new pads are properly BED-IN, is it okay to take them out and clean them? If so, does each pad need to go back in the same exact location it was removed from each caliper?
    2011 stumpjumper fsr comp 29er

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    Per the 2010 Avid Technical Manual>

    1. Accelerate the bike to a moderate speed
    (approximately 19 kilometers or 12 miles per
    hour), then firmly apply the brakes until you are
    at walking speed. Repeat approximately twenty
    times.
    2. Accelerate the bike to a faster speed
    (approximately 32 kilometers or 20 miles per
    hour). Then very firmly and suddenly apply the
    brakes until you are at walking speed. Repeat
    approximately ten times.
    important: do not lock up the wheels at any point
    during the bed-in procedure.
    3. Allow the brakes to cool prior to any additional
    riding.

    This worked for me after installing a solid sweep G3SS and new pads from Avid on my 2011 Stumpjumper Comp 29er HT rear.. No more hellish noise.

    Remember to keep your rotors clean with isopropyl alcohol.

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    A little bit more info on my application:

    I applied a THIN coat of the CRC Disc Brake Quiet using a tooth pick. Was very careful about only applying the goo to the pad surface that backs up to the metal spring-clip. Think of it as you are gluing the spring-clip to the pad. No goo on anywhere else. Following BigHit-Maniac's instructions, I also applied goo to the eyelet of the pads. NO goo on backing of pads.

    The goo sets up and the spring-clip and 2 pads stay glued together as a unit. After 400 goo-installed miles, when my pads were due for replacement, the spring and pads were still stuck together but they easily separated as the goo never fully hardens. So the spring-clip and 2 pads acted more like one part and maybe this is the key, no spring-clip resonance when you brake. thanks BHM
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by MotoJeff; 04-17-2012 at 10:48 AM.

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    Dude. Seriously, they are quiet now! I replaced the rotors with Alligator Serrations front and rear from Pricepoint, followed the procedure that MotorJeff recommended, and then bedded the pads in. BAM! They are silent. Before, during the bed-in, they would start to vibrate and get noisy..now silence. YES!!!!!! I am excited to ride Thursday and put them to true test. THANKS FOR THE INFO!
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    Anyone know if you can bed-in after they've been ridden for a while? I have a 2011 Rockhopper LTD 29r that came with Avid G2 Clean Sweep rotors that have squealed since day one - 2 different bike shop tech's didn't know what to do either... should I expect to replace them and just prep them from the get-go?

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    Alligator rotors solved my problem, brakes are quiet now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Yes, but the issue isn't just noise, its vibration. I think until people have experienced it, they don't quite understand this issue that seems to be specific to Specialized bikes. I can handle noise, but when its shimming badly its quite un-nerving.
    I have the same vibration on my Trek Superfly with the avids. I went ahead and swapped them for a set of XTRs to be done with the issue altogether.

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnpeacock View Post
    Anyone know if you can bed-in after they've been ridden for a while? I have a 2011 Rockhopper LTD 29r that came with Avid G2 Clean Sweep rotors that have squealed since day one - 2 different bike shop tech's didn't know what to do either... should I expect to replace them and just prep them from the get-go?
    I had nearly 3 months of riding 4-5 times per week and I did this procedure to mine this week and it solved the problem. Just take off your rotors and hit them with some light landpaper of emory cloth. Then clean everything from rotors to pads (sand them too) to calipers thn reinstall.

    Good luck,
    SM

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnpeacock View Post
    Anyone know if you can bed-in after they've been ridden for a while? I have a 2011 Rockhopper LTD 29r that came with Avid G2 Clean Sweep rotors that have squealed since day one - 2 different bike shop tech's didn't know what to do either... should I expect to replace them and just prep them from the get-go?
    Bedding in happens when the rotors are new; you are just embedding pad material in the new rotor. Its going to happen as you ride the bike the first time, what Avid is saying is that if you don't do the initial bed-in correctly, the pad material won't be evenly distributed and it can cause noise. Think about it, if the first thing you do is ride down your street and lock them up, you are putting a bunch of pad material in one spot on the rotor instead of evenly around it. Next time you brake, this will cause unevenness on the rotor surface and cause vibration and thus noise. To do it over, you can just sand the rotors and pads down and then follow this procedure. If it doesn't work, you can try the method I used with the brake-quiet goop or go with Alligator rotors.
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    So question... All this speak of bedding and what not. When I purchased my current bike as well 3 others new from the LBS I was NEVER told about brake bedding or break in. In fact the only break in guidance I was provided was to ride the bike, bring it back after a month and the LBS will it out. If brake bedding is such an important step then why isn't it talked about much until their's an issue? I mean after all I'm not one to buy a bike, go home and read the manual... Even then, as I was typing I noticed my Specialized CD Owner's Manual sitting right next to the computer. Here is what I found.

    Pad BrEak-in
    It may take anywhere from 20 to 40 complete stops to break in Avid pads. You may
    begin to notice an increase in braking power after the first ride. Brake noise can
    occur not only during the break-in period but off and on throughout the life of the
    brake pads. Noise is dependent upon factors such as brake setup, rider weight,
    riding style, braking style, and riding conditions (i.e. dust, soil, moisture, and
    contamination of friction surfaces).

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    If you buy a bike off n the LBS floor chances are that it has been demoed and not gone through the proper bed-in process. Maybe the LBS should be prepared to provide new pads and rotors.

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    Quote Originally Posted by kapton View Post
    I have the same vibration on my Trek Superfly with the avids. I went ahead and swapped them for a set of XTRs to be done with the issue altogether.
    Did you use the Avid rotors and brake levers or go all Shimano?
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    Quote Originally Posted by robin640 View Post
    Once the new pads are properly BED-IN, is it okay to take them out and clean them? If so, does each pad need to go back in the same exact location it was removed from each caliper?
    Okay, just talked to my LBS and Avid is sending them a new set of rotors and pads.

    Should i try to convince my LBS to install XT rotors / new pads to fix the know brake vibration issue on the stumpy?

    Or is the issue more involved than just rotors -> calipers too???
    2011 stumpjumper fsr comp 29er

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    I don't think you are going to convice them to do that if you haven't even allowed Avid/the shop to have a chance at fixing them. I am telling you, go with the brake quiet fix spelled out in this thread...It worked for me (but I also tossed the Avid rotors in favor of Alligators). I think that the pad-retaining spring is the source of all of these issues (possibly combined with the rotors). Print it out and take it to the shop and let the mechanic see it.
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    Quote Originally Posted by robin640 View Post
    Okay, just talked to my LBS and Avid is sending them a new set of rotors and pads.

    Should i try to convince my LBS to install XT rotors / new pads to fix the know brake vibration issue on the stumpy?

    Or is the issue more involved than just rotors -> calipers too???
    That will be a hard sell if they (Avid/LBS) haven't been given a chance to fix the Avid brakes. That is like going to your Ford dealer and saying the fix for your Ford is a Chevy..and you want them to pay for it! Print this thread out and take it to the mechanic at the LBS; I am telling you, the CRC brake quiet combined with Alligator Serration rotors fixed mine 100%. I think lots of these issues are related to the brake pad retaining spring.
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    Just received a call from my LBS regarding the Avid brake vibration problem. The tech told me Avid has a bracket that is on back order to repair the vibration issue and they do not expect the part to come into the shop until May 16th. He also mentioned the brake rotors are also being upgraded as part of the repair.
    2011 stumpjumper fsr comp 29er

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    Does anyone know if this is a problem only on Stumpjumpers or any disc bike? It seems like all I really hear about is the Stumpy not so much Rockhoppers. I've never heard of a Giant having the shakes.
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    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    Does anyone know if this is a problem only on Stumpjumpers or any disc bike? It seems like all I really hear about is the Stumpy not so much Rockhoppers. I've never heard of a Giant having the shakes.
    It's a lot of Specialized bikes at least.

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    Do a seach..tons of info on here. Theory is the rear triangle of certain Specy's amplifies the normal vibrations you get from all brakes. Case in point, I ride with several people who are on Avid hydros and I am the only one with any noise issues (fixed now!).
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    The brakes on my '11 Stumpy Comp 29er got WORSE during bed-in, like really loud, then got better after a few rides. Front brake was worse than the rear.

    They make hardly any noise at all now, but still aren't 100% silent. I'm happy at this point - the modulation and power are really, really nice. Still, I may replace the rotors if I stumble upon a good sale.

    It seems like there are a ton of different experiences, but in retrospect I would NOT have changed my purchasing decision or upgraded the brakes to XT's or whatever. Fantastic bike, and the brakes ended up being phenomenal as well.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Do a seach..tons of info on here. Theory is the rear triangle of certain Specy's amplifies the normal vibrations you get from all brakes. Case in point, I ride with several people who are on Avid hydros and I am the only one with any noise issues (fixed now!).
    Only Stumpjumpers or are any other Specialzed's frames doing it? I'd rather buy a Rockhopper and upgrade than have that annoying noise.
    A garage full of steel frames means happiness.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    Only Stumpjumpers or are any other Specialzed's frames doing it? I'd rather buy a Rockhopper and upgrade than have that annoying noise.
    I don't think I would downgrade the frame, look, its not that big of a deal and your logic doesn't make any sense for a potential issue. I fixed mine for ~$40 with new Alligator rotors and a little brake goop. Not all of them do it, just buy the bike and if the brakes are vibrating, have the LBS work with you on fixing it. You can always point the mechanic to these threads so they can see how others have fixed it. Avid will send rotors/pads if you experience any issues, however, it didn't fix mine and I just saved myself the hassle and ordered some of the Alligator Serration rotors from Pricepoint.com and was done with it.
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    Just an update, I have been riding the crap out of my bike over the last few weeks and haven't had any noise/vibration since replacing the rotors and doing the brake goop thing. Its a miracle.
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    I had the same rear brake squeal on my 2010 Enduro with Elixir CR's. I tried sanding/cleaning the pads and rotors and bedding in several times. No sound during the bedding in, but the sound came back out on the trail....
    First thing I tried that cost money was replacing the stock Avid metallic pads with Ashima made SOS pads (branded as Origin8). After bedding these pads in, the Elixirs have been the best brakes I have ever used!

  51. #51
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    I've got a 2011 fsr and had no issues knock on wood

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    Hi,
    I have a large 2011 stumpjumper fso comp with avid elixirs. They were fine up until about 30 miles of use then bad rear vibration. The mail order dealer I purchased bike from sent me new discs ( hs1) and adaptors ( new discs are slightly smaller). I fitted these and same again, ok for 10 or so miles then bad vibration, the front is also vibrating now. Iv'e spoken to avid and specialized and they said try cleaning and sanding down etc. I tried all that on the original discs, it cured noise for 10 or so miles but then comes back. I'm surprised avid or specialized have not come up with a decent fix and more info. This bike has cost me a lot of money, I never had any issues with my giant xtc 3 with mph brakes, not a peep, they had been wet, dry, covered in muck and goo and still performed well.
    I know people say fit alligator rotors or shimano brakes but I would like to get this sorted out without paying. My next option is to take bike to a local specialized dealer and let them take a look. What a complette pain. I was told specialized had good after care but not the case so far.
    Has anyone had a decent fix done under warranty ?

  53. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by brian21 View Post
    Hi,
    I have a large 2011 stumpjumper fso comp with avid elixirs. They were fine up until about 30 miles of use then bad rear vibration. The mail order dealer I purchased bike from sent me new discs ( hs1) and adaptors ( new discs are slightly smaller). I fitted these and same again, ok for 10 or so miles then bad vibration, the front is also vibrating now. Iv'e spoken to avid and specialized and they said try cleaning and sanding down etc. I tried all that on the original discs, it cured noise for 10 or so miles but then comes back. I'm surprised avid or specialized have not come up with a decent fix and more info. This bike has cost me a lot of money, I never had any issues with my giant xtc 3 with mph brakes, not a peep, they had been wet, dry, covered in muck and goo and still performed well.
    I know people say fit alligator rotors or shimano brakes but I would like to get this sorted out without paying. My next option is to take bike to a local specialized dealer and let them take a look. What a complette pain. I was told specialized had good after care but not the case so far.
    Has anyone had a decent fix done under warranty ?
    I have a 2011 Camber 29er with elixers (actually have two, bought one for the wife). Just like you, after 50-75 miles both bikes got the squeel and vibration. After trying a few tricks to fix I had read online, they would still squeel. Finally took the to the LBS. LBS put in organic pads and solid rotors on the rear. This fix eliminated 90% of brake noise and 95% of vibration. 18 months later, both bikes are still quiet and stopping power and modulation are fine. The only downside is that the organic pads wear out quicker.
    --If you must choose between two evils, pick the one you've never tried before.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigRuckus View Post
    I have a 2011 Camber 29er with elixers (actually have two, bought one for the wife). Just like you, after 50-75 miles both bikes got the squeel and vibration. After trying a few tricks to fix I had read online, they would still squeel. Finally took the to the LBS. LBS put in organic pads and solid rotors on the rear. This fix eliminated 90% of brake noise and 95% of vibration. 18 months later, both bikes are still quiet and stopping power and modulation are fine. The only downside is that the organic pads wear out quicker.
    I've got a 2012 Camber 29 (exactly the same as the 2011), and I've been back to the LBS 3 times, had pads and rotors replaced, and have had no change.

    I've got Alligator rotors on the way, and I'm gonna get some of that brake quiet stuff, because it's worked for others here. It's really annoying. The noise isn't nearly as bad as vibration, which kind of shakes my confidence on technical stuff.

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    Quote Originally Posted by CS2 View Post
    I know the older models have been discussed at length but has anyone had a problem with the 2011 or 2012 Stumpjumpers? They both use the same brakes. I saw some nice closeouts on 2011s today. I hate to get a bike that's going to be in the shop more than the trail.
    I have a 2012 Stumpjumper FSR w/ Elixer 7's and these are the first elixirs I have ever owned that have vibrated and squealed. I have tried new organic pads and cleaning the rotors but no progress.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by brian21 View Post
    Hi,
    I have a large 2011 stumpjumper fso comp with avid elixirs. They were fine up until about 30 miles of use then bad rear vibration. The mail order dealer I purchased bike from sent me new discs ( hs1) and adaptors ( new discs are slightly smaller). I fitted these and same again, ok for 10 or so miles then bad vibration, the front is also vibrating now. Iv'e spoken to avid and specialized and they said try cleaning and sanding down etc. I tried all that on the original discs, it cured noise for 10 or so miles but then comes back. I'm surprised avid or specialized have not come up with a decent fix and more info. This bike has cost me a lot of money, I never had any issues with my giant xtc 3 with mph brakes, not a peep, they had been wet, dry, covered in muck and goo and still performed well.
    I know people say fit alligator rotors or shimano brakes but I would like to get this sorted out without paying. My next option is to take bike to a local specialized dealer and let them take a look. What a complette pain. I was told specialized had good after care but not the case so far.
    Has anyone had a decent fix done under warranty ?
    Figure out how much money your time is worth. Once you do that, you can see if its worth all the BS to keep going back to the shop or just spend $40 on Alligators and ride. You said it in your post "What a complete pain". Yes, it sucks to spend $40 more of your hard-earned dollars, but again, your time is probably worth quite a bit more.
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    Quote Originally Posted by brian21 View Post
    Hi,
    The mail order dealer I purchased bike from.

    I would like to get this sorted out without paying.

    My next option is to take bike to a local specialized dealer and let them take a look
    These problems are why this isn't a good idea.

  59. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpjumper61 View Post
    I have a 2012 Stumpjumper FSR w/ Elixer 7's and these are the first elixirs I have ever owned that have vibrated and squealed. I have tried new organic pads and cleaning the rotors but no progress.
    Again, this issue with the 7s can be solved with a set of organic pads and Alligator Serration rotors. $60 or so and you are set. You should be able to get the organic pads for free at the LBS, Avid will send them no questions asked.
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  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Again, this issue with the 7s can be solved with a set of organic pads and Alligator Serration rotors. $60 or so and you are set. You should be able to get the organic pads for free at the LBS, Avid will send them no questions asked.
    OK OK, OK, I ordered the rotors and the glue, we will see what happens. If they don't work, I will be sending you the bill....j/k

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    My new 2012 SJ with Avid Elixir 7 make a little noise in the front and vibrate in the rear... I'm use to it... Maybe I need to actually do the bed in process lol..
    2012 Specialized StumpJumper HT Comp 29

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    Smile stumpjumper fso comp 2011 brake vibration

    update on brake vibration
    today I removed the new hs1 discs ( holes rather than slots) cleaned surfaces with emery paper, also cleaned pads with emery paper.
    I noticed the pad on the rear had lower contact position to the front ? about 1mm
    I put a thin washer under each mounting point on the rear caliper ( still used conical spacers)
    I also noticed the pistons on the side of the caliper closest to the wheel protrude slightly more than other side ( front and back) I pushed these back but they just went back to same position so no different there.
    I did the bed in procedure to evenly load up the disc.
    I've just been on a 15 mile wet muddy ride and the brakes are much better, there was a hint of squeal and vibration but nothing like before.
    the brake do feel grabby though almost like the pad and disc are to grippy, perhaps thats why some say organic pad is better.
    I think reason they dont make noise at first is because of slight missalignment but after bedding in they are too grippy ?
    will report back in a week or so.
    PS as for the coment about mail order, I know it's best to buy local and i have in the past but local shop only had this years model for £2300 where as iI got last years for £1500. £800 is a big saving I havn't got money to burn, my wife makes sure of that
    Thanks for replies

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpjumper61 View Post
    OK OK, OK, I ordered the rotors and the glue, we will see what happens. If they don't work, I will be sending you the bill....j/k
    Received the Alligator rotors today. The 180 is OK, the 203 is warped beyond reasonable tolerance and will have to be returned for replacement

    UPDATE: I trued the rotors by hand and they are spinning in the calipers without rubbing the brake pads. First time I ever tried it and it took a while but I got it!
    Last edited by Stumpjumper61; 06-16-2012 at 10:22 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpjumper61 View Post
    Received the Alligator rotors today. The 180 is OK, the 203 is warped beyond reasonable tolerance and will have to be returned for replacement
    My 160 was good. My 180 was a little off, and I had some rubbing as a result.

    BUT, went for a ride yesterday, and it was like a whole new world. I don't think the stopping power was quite as strong, but there was no more warbling and no more vibrating, and that alone gave me a lot more confidence, and I could just concentrate on riding, instead of being pissed that my brakes, on my brand new bike, didn't work correctly.

  65. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.Quint View Post
    My 160 was good. My 180 was a little off, and I had some rubbing as a result.

    BUT, went for a ride yesterday, and it was like a whole new world. I don't think the stopping power was quite as strong, but there was no more warbling and no more vibrating, and that alone gave me a lot more confidence, and I could just concentrate on riding, instead of being pissed that my brakes, on my brand new bike, didn't work correctly.
    UPDATE: I trued the rotors by hand and they are spinning in the calipers without rubbing the brake pads. First time I ever tried to true a rotor and it took a while but I got it!

    I am on my way to ride, will report back when I return

  66. #66
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    Another satisfied Alligator rotor customer! They work..period.
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  67. #67
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    Back from ride. Neither brake squealed. Front brake did not vibrate however the rear brake started vibrating about 30 minutes into the ride. When I got home the "disc brake quiet" was in my mailbox. I will apply that to the rear brake and try again tomorrow.

  68. #68
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    Which type of alligator rotors are yall running? Pricepoint has 6 different kinds...

  69. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdjohnson121 View Post
    Which type of alligator rotors are yall running? Pricepoint has 6 different kinds...

    This one:

    New ALLIGATOR Coated Disc Brake Rotor,WIND CUTTER,180mm,113g | eBay

  70. #70
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    Back from second ride. The "Disc Brake Quiet" worked on the rear brake and it is no longer vibrating!!!! The front brake started with a very small squeal so I am going to put the disc brake quiet glue on it and I am sure it will take care of it. So all is well for now

  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdjohnson121 View Post
    Which type of alligator rotors are yall running? Pricepoint has 6 different kinds...
    The ones called "Serration".
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  72. #72
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    OK Ive been doing a little experimenting with alligator rotors and they quiet things down a bit BUT the combo of alligator and brake glue and size of rotor seem to be the best fix
    Experiment #1
    Kept the stock pads that were making so much noise cleaned with Alcohol and a good sanding changed to Alligator rotors with the stock sizes 200 up front 180 in rear they were quiet after bed in but it didn't take more than a couple of long downhills to get the noisy again But not as noisy as the Avid rotors. So experiment #1 rotors only Fail
    Experiment #2
    Downsized rotors to alligator 180 front 160 rear but on the rear I glued the pads and spring together with epoxy used the same pads as above just cleaned with alcohol... Results after some long downhills Rear brake is silent Front brake is still noisy But about 1/2 what it was with the 200 alligator rotor.
    Experiment #3
    So I picked up Brake quiet glue today and will glue my front pads tonight and light them up on some good downhills in the next few days and get back.... but it seems like just switching
    to the serrated rotors helps but it seems that the combo of glue and rotor is the ticket I will know for sure in a couple of day, also I will throw on a avid rotor with glued pads to see if just the glue is the fix?
    I always type in bold cuz I'm blind as a bat
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  73. #73
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    I will throw on a avid rotor with glued pads to see if just the glue is the fix?[/B][/QUOTE]

    I did the Alligator rotors first and then the glue and was wondering the same thing!

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdjohnson121 View Post
    Which type of alligator rotors are yall running? Pricepoint has 6 different kinds...
    I went with Serration.

    Still haven't done the Brake Quiet, but soon.

  75. #75
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    On my 2012 Stumpy Comp HT, I've had quiet brakes with the use of "Disc Brake Quiet" using the stock Elixir 7SL pads and discs.
    2017 Marin Nail Trail 7 29er HT
    2012 Stumpjumper Comp 29er HT
    2011 Giant Anthem X2 29er

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by MotoJeff View Post
    On my 2012 Stumpy Comp HT, I've had quiet brakes with the use of "Disc Brake Quiet" using the stock Elixir 7SL pads and discs.
    The one by loctite?
    2012 Specialized StumpJumper HT Comp 29

  77. #77
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    No, CRC.
    See posts #22, #26 and #29 for product application.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    2017 Marin Nail Trail 7 29er HT
    2012 Stumpjumper Comp 29er HT
    2011 Giant Anthem X2 29er

  78. #78
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    That stuff works, I don't know how long it lasts since I have only used it for one ride so far but it stopped the squeal and the vibration.

  79. #79
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    Has anyone tried this stuff? Squeal Out.

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    This worked for me.

    http://www.jensonusa.com/Brake-Pads/...isc-Brake-pads


    Thanks Michael

  81. #81
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    Just reporting back on my efforts. So far I have tried combinations with the following after-market items. Incidentally I ride a 2012 FSR Carbon Comp 29er Large

    1. New alligator serration rotors
    2. New organic brake pads (my existing ones were organic but worn)
    3. CRC Disc Brake Quiet
    4. Serface DBP-A4 brake pads

    Before I go into detail I would like to point out that (in my opinion) one ride is not enough to make an accurate evaluation of a change to your bike. I came upon this opinion based my previous posted assertions not holding up over the long haul. With only time to ride on weekends this issue is taking forever to work through therefore at this point I still have not tried everything and want to try more.

    The good news is that I have eliminated the squeal front and back with the application of 3, 4 and 1 (1 on the rear brake only). I did not like 1 for the front brake because I noticed a serious drop in stopping power when compared to my stock AVID 200mm rotor. When I switched back to the stock front rotor it appeared that 3 and 4 was all that was necessary to eliminate the squeal.

    Remaining is a very nasty resonance vibration in the rear. Number 1 and 3 seems to have helped some but not entirely eliminated the problem. I added 4 to my rear caliper today and will be testing this weekend for results and will report back. If this does not stop the vibration I will attempt, as someone suggested here, strapping model airplane weights to my seat stay. Believe it or not I have these laying around ….see link Great Planes GPMQ4485 Segmented Lead Weight 6 oz)
    Last edited by Stumpjumper61; 07-06-2012 at 06:39 PM.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpjumper61 View Post
    Just reporting back on my efforts. So far I have tried combinations with the following after-market items. Incidentally I ride a 2012 FSR Carbon Comp 29er Large

    1. New alligator serration rotors
    2. New organic brake pads (my existing ones were organic but worn)
    3. CRC Disc Brake Quiet
    4. Serface DBP-A4 brake pads

    Before I go into detail I would like to point out that (in my opinion) one ride is not enough to make an accurate evaluation of a change to your bike. I came upon this opinion based my previous posted assertions not holding up over the long haul. With only time to ride on weekends this issue is taking forever to work through therefore at this point I still have not tried everything and want to try more.

    The good news is that I have eliminated the squeal front and back with the application of 3, 4 and 1 (1 on the rear brake only). I did not like 1 for the front brake because I noticed a serious drop in stopping power when compared to my stock AVID 200mm rotor. When I switched back to the stock front rotor it appeared that 3 and 4 was all that was necessary to eliminate the squeal.

    Remaining is a very nasty resonance vibration in the rear. Number 1 and 3 seems to have helped some but not entirely eliminated the problem. I added 4 to my rear caliper today and will be testing this weekend for results and will report back. If this does not stop the vibration I will attempt, as someone suggested here, strapping model airplane weights to my seat stay. Believe it or not I have these laying around ….see link Great Planes GPMQ4485 Segmented Lead Weight 6 oz)
    Back from ride today with a new set of #4 on rear caliper along with 3 applied to both the spring and rear of pad. I did not experience any rear brake vibration so it appears I have successfully addressed my brake issues once and for all! However, I am going to ride again tomorrow before I say for certain. If no problems arise over the next few rides then the solution for me was rear brake 1, 3, 4. Front brake 3, 4. Ride on!

  83. #83
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    I have both the squeal and the resonating brakes pretty bad - the resonating brakes shake my whole bike (six week old 2012 Stumpy FSR Comp).

    I tried the CRC Disc Brake Quiet in combination with resurfacing the pads and cleaning them with alcohol and it didn't do anything for me. I ordered the brake pads recommended by mbtec1 and they are on the way.

    If that doesn't work I may change out the rotors to the Alligators or even the try the Squeal Out. Having brakes that want to buck you off the bike really takes the fun out of descents.

    +1 First Post
    Last edited by wARmachine15; 07-16-2012 at 08:22 PM.

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbtec1 View Post
    This worked for me.

    jensonusa.com/Brake-Pads/Serfas-Avid-Elixir-Disc-Brake-pads]Serfas Avid Elixir Disc Brake Pads > Components > Brakes > Brake Pads | Jenson USA Online Bike Shop


    Thanks Michael
    Just an update: The CRC Disc Brake Quiet did not work at all for me but the brake pads mbtec1 recommended took out about about 95% of the turkey gobble and squealing (in conjuction with scrubbing the rotor with generic brake parts cleaner.

  85. #85
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    Quote Originally Posted by wARmachine15 View Post
    Just an update: The CRC Disc Brake Quiet did not work at all for me but the brake pads mbtec1 recommended took out about about 95% of the turkey gobble and squealing (in conjuction with scrubbing the rotor with generic brake parts cleaner.
    Can't believe I am bringing this thread back to life but I thought is important to add something. After I thought I had the rear brake issues of vibration solved I started having vibration again so I tried the lead model airplane weights. So far after 20 miles of tough riding the problem seems to be solved.

    I simply wrapped about 5" of my seat stay above the rotor about midway with electrical tape then placed about a 4" strip of the weights on the tape and then taped over them with the same tape making sure to seal up the ends well so it would not hold dirt and water. Each segment of weights weighs 1/4 oz. I think I had 4 or 5 on the strip so that would be about one ounce. It was worth it not having that vibration creeping up and the brake works so much better when it's not vibrating. Here is a link to the weights I am talking about:

    TowerHobbies.com | GPMGPMQ4485 GPMQ4485 Great Planes Segmented Lead Weights 6 oz

    You can pick these up at you local full service hobby shop they are a fairly common item anywhere they sell R/C stuff

  86. #86
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    My 2011 squeeled. I changed to Kool Stop pads and lapped the rotor. All better.

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    My LBS fixed my elixirs by replacing them with SLX's. Vibration was too much to live with.

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    I'm having great results with Squeal Out on my Camber's Eilixir 3's. As long as I keep them clean and dry, the difference is night and day. It's been a couple of weeks now, and the improvement is massive.

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    Am I the only one that actually has rear noise and resonance with SLX M666 and Shimano RT66 rotor??

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    Thats a bummer so far my brakes have been good.

  91. #91
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    I switched rear rotor from Shimano to old Avid that I had with BB5... strangly enough, it is as silent as ghost while braking.

    New Shimano rotor + new Shimano SLX = resonance and horrible squeel
    Avid old rotor + new Shimano SLX = enjoyable silence

    I must also add that rear brake is even slightly more silent than front that uses Shimano rotor (eventho front is also very silent), which is odd considering I thought Avid rotors are much louder than rest.

    Anyway, I'm happy that horrible resonance is gone, and I hope it won't come back.

  92. #92
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    I have a 2012 stumpjumper evo, the brakes squeal when they get wet. which it has been all summer here in the uk. so the brakes have been driving me crazy. Has anyone got the same bike and had the same trouble?
    i have tried new pads, new rotors. supplied by my LBS. cleaning the rotors with alcohol, sanding the rotors etc.
    any help would be great help.

  93. #93
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    Lots of brakes squeal when wet, this isn't just an Avid issue. That being said, Alligator Serration rotors and organic pads (glued to the spring) may help. Other than that, time for some Shimanos.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2018 Niner RKT 9 RDO - enduro are #@$%

  94. #94
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    Sorry. i should say the squealing is not the usual noise you get when wet that will go off after a minute. the noise will carry on for 5 minutes or more. i have run discs for 12 years and know brakes can squeal if they get wet. this is something else!

  95. #95
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    This is a very well known issue with the 2012 - just google it - sorry to hear
    Specialized Stumpjumper Evo 29er - "Bike 'Til You Barf!"

  96. #96
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    alligator rotors and serfas rotors worked for me. the rotors heat up fast though. probably the only thing i don't like about them but its still better than the squealing.

  97. #97
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    Maudib, Umm..no need to Google it...just read this freakin' thread.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2018 Niner RKT 9 RDO - enduro are #@$%

  98. #98
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    I gave up trying to fix it, and got some SLX brakes. Night and day.

    I'm done with the squealing and rubbing and the constant adjustment and the whole hassle.

  99. #99
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    I had squealing on my 2012 Stumpjumer FSR Comp. Had my LBS look at it and it is a known problem. I was told its an issue with the organic compound pads that come stock. They tend to absorb water, oils, etc., which results in the problem.

    They replaced the stock pads with metal pads. No more problem.

    Warning ... Metal pads will wear the rotors quicker. Not a big problem in FL.

  100. #100
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    I've spent the last few months trying to figure out the horrible vibration/foghorn noise that the rear xo trail was making on my '13 stumpy expert evo. After my buddy at the lbs got in contact with the right person at specialized we were told that if you rotate the banjo bolt where the hose goes into the caliper from along the seatstay, and point it down to run along the chainstay, it might cure it. Doing nothing more than slightly loosening the through bolt and rotating it, my bike has been rid of the turkeys completely. I haven't heard of this fix anywhere online so I thought I would share.

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