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  1. #1
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    Spec's Roval and 2Bliss set up: Infuriating procedure/failing

    Given how people rave about tubeless, I thought I would give tubeless a go. My 2014 World Cup Epic already came equipped with 2bliss ready Roval carbon wheels and S-Works Fast Trak tyres.

    Despite following the recommended procedure of:


    • Install Spec tubeless valve and tighten lock nut (rubber sits square in the rim gutter)
    • Soap & water the rims
    • Soap & water tyre beads
    • Put tyre on
    • Put bead on evenly until valve point
    • Pour in Stans sealant (1.5 swoops)
    • Rotate wheel
    • Clip on last bead
    • Ensure both beads are in the rim gutter
    • Using a compressor, pump up tyre


    For some unfathomable reason, the tyre will NOT inflate. I tried the Schwalbe's Racing Ralphs and worked well, though they were harder to get on the rim and required levers but sealed fine.

    What am I doing wrong? I always like to do things myself and reluctant to go to a shop.

  2. #2
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    You don't state what is going wrong with the 2Bliss? Is it not sealing, or will it not rise onto the rim? If it is not sealing, how long does it take to lose air? if a while where is the air escaping from (i.e. sealing strip issue or valve or rim)?

  3. #3
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    Never had a hard time with a 2bliss tire, but sometimes I have to pull both tire beads up on the ledge of the rim to help it seal enough to get the beads to snap in place.

    Go all the way around, try it again. If the tire is wet with sealant, I sk the soap and water...
    Todd

  4. #4
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    Thanks for your replies.

    Skiwi - it will not not rise onto the rim. There is a fair amount of air escaping. It seems the Stans's tubeless instructions is not working for Spec's 2Bliss tyres. I can only assume there must be a different method of getting this to work.

    Todd - how did you manage to pull both beads up on the ledge of the rim?

  5. #5
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    I have never used soap and water, sometimes it takes five minutes and no mess, other times I get stans all over everything.
    I'm sick of all the Irish stereotypes, as soon as I finish this beer I"m punching someone

  6. #6
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    I put the tire/wheel assy in between my legs and inch by inch, I grab the tire where the tread meets the sidewall and pull it out tow rads the edge. What you want is to create the start of the seal, so the compressor or pump will seal it up easier...
    Todd

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hatone View Post
    Thanks for your replies.

    Skiwi - it will not not rise onto the rim. There is a fair amount of air escaping. It seems the Stans's tubeless instructions is not working for Spec's 2Bliss tyres. I can only assume there must be a different method of getting this to
    I don't use a compressor, but a CO2 canister. Also I don't use any sealant until the tyre has seated on the rims. Also take the valve core out so that more air can get into the tyre when you are inflating it for the first time.

    So, no Stan's, remove valve core, use CO2 canister to inflate the tyre onto the rim. Inject Stan's in through the valve core, screw valve core back in and re inflate.

  8. #8
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    Todd - Thanks

    Skiwi - Thanks. Using your method, where did you put the tyre bead, on the ledge like Todd's way or in the middle of the rim? Secondly what type of C02 canister do you use?

  9. #9
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    Got to agree. Since specialized removed the bead hook from their rims setting up their tires has become a nightmare. Used to be a 5 minutes deal with my floor pump but now I have to visit my local tires shop everytime. It sucks..
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hatone View Post
    Skiwi - Thanks. Using your method, where did you put the tyre bead, on the ledge like Todd's way or in the middle of the rim? Secondly what type of C02 canister do you use?
    I put the beads in the middle of the rim. The key point is ensuring that the valve is correctly positioned inside the tyre. Wrt inflation, once you have removed the valve core, a small (16oz) CO2 canister should be enough to seat the tyre. Alternatively use a Schraeder to Presta converter and rock up to the local gas station and use their compressor pump...

  11. #11
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    I've never had a single issues with Specialized tires setting up tubeless. They have always been one of the easiest to get to seat... always a floor pump proposition when plenty of other tires need me to bust out the compressor.

    You can try installing the tube again. Then, only unseating 1 of the beads to remove the tube. That sometimes really helps with stubborn tires.

    You do have the brown rims trips installed, correct?

  12. #12
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    I will also add that the new straight sidewall rims are more trouble than the old design. I think they got tired of paying Stan's licensing fees on the bead hook design (that they originally stole... then got sued for). But, I've always gotten them up and running.

  13. #13
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    air it up with the valve core removed, you get more air into the tire that will help to inflate it. then remove compressor and place finger over stem and reinsert core. ive had good luck doing it that way.
    Last edited by millerasm; 02-02-2014 at 07:34 PM. Reason: spelling

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by skiwi View Post
    I put the beads in the middle of the rim. The key point is ensuring that the valve is correctly positioned inside the tyre.
    This...

  15. #15
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    In the begining, I had some problems inflating too. On closer examination I saw that the tire bead was on top of the valve thus creating a gaping hole between the rim and the tire around the valve. I have control carbon 29 rims and ground controls.

  16. #16
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    I had a similar problem with a Schwalbe tire. I just put a tube into the tire overnight (not on the rim) to have the tire take shape. having the tire somewhere warm helps too.

  17. #17
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    Lots of good advice here to try. It's a pretty clear consensus tubeless aren't exactly straightforward to fit.

    I'm going to try the following:

    Use a 16g cannister to inflate a 'dry' tyre with no sealant, bead in the centre gutter of the rim. Value core removed.
    Will double check valve positioning and extra tighten with lock nut
    Will also try manually fit beads on the ledge of the rims

    Potentially a few expletives in between. Will report back

  18. #18
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    if it won't air up with valve core removed, soapy water and a floor pump, then simply add another layer of rim tape until it inflates this way....not sure why this is so hard to
    understand. i have control sl's with sworks renegades and 2 layers of gorilla tape, airs
    up basically as soon as i start pumping.

  19. #19
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    I get even the least tubeless ready tires to air up on my Arch EX's, with much fuss. A lot of it is the wheel you're working with.

    We did a set of Surly Bud and Lou's on a clownshoe wheel, and it took us hours. Had to use a strap in the middle and the compressor cycled 3 times before it took...

    Keep at it, good luck!
    Todd

  20. #20
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    Many times this has to do with needing a compressor with constant high pressure to blow while you mess with the tire to get it to set. Often I have had issues when the rims are more narrow and having to spread the tire apart at the valve stem before it will finally take.

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  21. #21
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    Well, I never had issues with tubeless. The trick I found is once the sealant is added. Grab the wheel and roll it on the ground while applying pressure to the wheel. Once that done air up the tire. Works every time for me. I never had to use a compressor for specialized tires to seat bead.

  22. #22
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    Spec's Roval and 2Bliss set up: Infuriating procedure/failing

    I have done various tubeless set ups on various rims, including a newer set of Roval Control Trail 29. The biggest PITA was some Giant P-XC2 wheels, but the Rovals went right up for me using Stan's valves. One of my Rovals had the tubeless rimstrip doubled over and creased so I had to scrap it, replacing with 1 layer of Gorilla tape with about a 3" overlap at the valve hole. Anyway, when I get a set that is a big hassle, I do the following:

    - Air up the wheel with a tube installed to 35-40 psi with a dry bead on one side at least. Let it sit for 5 min or so.

    - Then air down the tire pushing on only ONE side of the tire beads, leaving the bead on the other side untouched. Do whatever you can to not disturb the bead on the other side.

    - CAREFULLY remove the tube through the broken-bead side.

    - Pour in the sealant and wet the open-side bead with soapy water.

    - Re-seat the open-side bead and inflate with a compressor blast, preferably with the valve core out.

    I know this sounds like a hassle, but eliminating as much air escape as possible is the key here. Btw, the Gorilla taped wheel when up a tad easier and holds air better than the 2Bliss rimstrip.
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  23. #23
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    Never had any issues with setting up a 2bliss tire.

    What made it easier for me was to hang the rim. I would have the valve at the 12 0'clock position. Make sure the bead is set properly around the valve. Then I would empty a CO2 into the tire. The CO2 is enough to shape up the tire, then I would use a pump to seat the bead.
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  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTBeing View Post
    I know this sounds like a hassle, but eliminating as much air escape as possible is the key here. Btw, the Gorilla taped wheel when up a tad easier and holds air better than the 2Bliss rimstrip.
    Thanks MTBeing.

    Are you saying it is worth ditching the 2Bliss rim tape in favour of Gorilla tape? I kind of agree the rim tape supplied with Roval wheels don't look particularly reassuring....

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hatone View Post
    Thanks MTBeing.

    Are you saying it is worth ditching the 2Bliss rim tape in favour of Gorilla tape? I kind of agree the rim tape supplied with Roval wheels don't look particularly reassuring....
    If there are any creases in the Roval rim tape, it pays to replace as IME, this can often lead to air pushing through the tape, into the rim and then slow leaks around the valve seat. I now use Stans tape.

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