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  1. #1
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    Specialized 142+ rear hub

    I just ordered a 2011 Specialized Epic 29er Expert EVO R and understand that the stock Formula hub is not very good (poor engagement and heavy). I intend to build up a race wheelset and use the stock one for training. Here's where the problem comes in. Since Specialized uses their own 142+ which places the cassette 2mm farther out on the hub, I don't want to adjust the rear der. when I switch back and forth. Has anyone withe the new Epic come up with a solution to this? Can you space the cassette farther out on an aftermarket hub to match the 142+? The only soution that I can come up with is to spring for the high end Rovals which I really don't want to do since I am a bigger guy and am worried about durability. They are also a lot of $$$

    Thanks in advance for the advice,
    Jeff
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  2. #2
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    you cant space out the cassette - the lock ring will not catch
    might want to change the hub in the stock wheelset
    or buy a better training set if you are a big guy it is only a matter of time before you taco the front wheel
    sorry to be a downer
    SJ
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  3. #3
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    I am/had the same issue. My race wheels are a set of I9 ultra lights, so I ended up ordering a set of the Roval Control SL carbon wheels.

    I bought I9s 142+ adapter for the ultra lishts, but like you stated it was a pain to adjust the rear derailleur and rear brake.
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  4. #4
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    still waiting on my 135 carbon rovals
    already have a 142 adapter for them
    my other rims are 19 classics with alpine 3 spokes and flow rims
    heavy but bullet proof
    I also like to just toss on a different set of wheels and go

    SJ
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  5. #5
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    Sorry to threadjack but all this talk about the stock wheelset being soft has me a little concerned!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by abbeytrails
    All this talk about the stock wheelset being soft has me a little concerned!

    Yeah same here

    I was hoping to get away with the stock wheelset for one season, then upgrade next year when there are more options for 142. With all the talk about these wheels being heavy, weak, and having poor engagement, I'm starting to rethink that strategy.

    Does anyone want to buy a stock wheelset...REAL CHEAP???
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    I have a 29er comp and plan on using the stock set up. I even have a spare rear hub (thanks Slowerjoe) in the event of rear hub problems. I would love a sweet $400.00 rear hub but not in the cards at this time. Any way Specialized tec department told me the stock rear hub is made by Joy-tech. If you look at Halo hubs they look the same as well. Specialized clams a 10 degree engagement on the stock hub and that is what I have been riding so the stock hub should serve me fine if it proves to be durable. I have been trying to find a upgrade to the freehub on the stock hub but no luck so far. Hopefully more manufactures will come out with a 12x142+ . Now if the snow would just melt outside my door I could ride my bike instead of just talk about it

  8. #8
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    I am not a wheel expert but I would think the stock wheel should provide at lease some level of longevity. I have very few miles on my stock epic 29er wheels but when I first got the bike I re-tensioned the front wheel and on the rear I removed each nipple and lubed the threads then basically rebuilt it. My stock spoke tension was very low and I am sure if I rode the wheels that way I would experience problems after only a few hundred miles. Also if you look at the link below the Halo hubs look just like the Specialized stock 12x142+ hubs and they give simple directions on how to lube the freehub. May help the hub last a bit longer.

    http://www.halorims.com/halo-halorims_techinfo.php

  9. #9
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    Lots of talk about the stock wheels and hubs that come on the Specialized epic 29er. I believe all the models except the S-works is equiped with the same set up. I am not a expert but I think if your spokes are correctly tensioned and relieved the hoops and spokes should give resonalbe service. (don’t trust the factory build) The rear hub may need more attention in order to get good longjevity out of it. I took it apart and this is what I found

    This is what the axel looks like. It spins on two cartrige bearings


    This is the freehub end with the cartridge bearing removed



    I had to made a special tool to remove the freehub. This is what it looks like. It has 15 pts of engagement



    The hub only has two pawls or what ever they are called. They are easely removed and could be replaced




    The freehub runs on 27 little individual ball bearings towards the center of the hub and 25 to the outside


    The hub is easy to get apart to repalce the cartridge bearings. The freehub ball bearings are ease as well but you do need to get/make the correct tool. Once again I am no expert but if anyone wants this rear hub to last I would think it need to be kept clean and well lubed. Thanks again SlowerJoe for the spare. Hope I don’t need it but it is nice to have.




    If any one know of a way to upgrade this freehub please let me know. I did not remove the freehub from the hub as I do not have the corect allen. It takes a large allen from the non drive side I believe.

    Sweet……….


  10. #10
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    I'm converting a Hope II hub for the 142+ through axle. I'm told this is going to work, but can't say if it is or not. I have some doubts from some photos I have seen.

  11. #11
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    Just got my Epic. The rear hub is crap. I was planning on building a set of race wheels as well. I may just order a second DT 240 rear hub and rebuild the rear wheel of the stock set with that instead of trying to screw around with derailleur and brake adjustments all the time. I'd love a set of carbon Rovals to race on, but I just spent all my money on the bike. No more for $1500 wheels... shame
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrob1775
    I just ordered a 2011 Specialized Epic 29er Expert EVO R and understand that the stock Formula hub is not very good (poor engagement and heavy). I intend to build up a race wheelset and use the stock one for training. Here's where the problem comes in. Since Specialized uses their own 142+ which places the cassette 2mm farther out on the hub, I don't want to adjust the rear der. when I switch back and forth. Has anyone withe the new Epic come up with a solution to this? Can you space the cassette farther out on an aftermarket hub to match the 142+? The only soution that I can come up with is to spring for the high end Rovals which I really don't want to do since I am a bigger guy and am worried about durability. They are also a lot of $$$

    Thanks in advance for the advice,
    Jeff

    I'm leaning towards Industry Nine. From what I read they are incredible wheels and have all kinds of color options. Does anyone have any expirience with Industry Nine?

    J.
    Specialized BG FIT Master Technician

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lafawnduh
    I had to made a special tool to remove the freehub.
    I have a Specialized Hi Lo rear hub on my Stumpjumper (see here). Apart from the axle (mine it's QR) it looks very similar to yours. After 100 miles the freewheel developed a clunking sound, so I'd like to disassemble it and see what's going on. What's the tool you made to remove the freehub? Any idea about the noise I'm hearing? Thank you.

  14. #14
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    I had to turn this tool down and remove two of the teeth. I did it by hand on a belt sander. Good luck!

    http://cgi.ebay.com/PARK-FR-8-BMX-Fr...item2eaf072676

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    Quote Originally Posted by jrob1775
    I'm leaning towards Industry Nine. From what I read they are incredible wheels and have all kinds of color options. Does anyone have any expirience with Industry Nine?

    J.
    I just got a set of wheels from Project 321 (front wheel is a Lefty hub) - the rear wheel uses a custom shell but the internals are industry nine. The engagement is instant, so it gets a big thumbs up from me. Only potential downside is how loud they are - definitely no stealth mode on the trail if you are coasting. I don't have any meaningful ride time on them yet and I certainly can't give any long term durability report, but the hubs themselves are beautiful

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lafawnduh
    I had to turn this tool down and remove two of the teeth. I did it by hand on a belt sander. Good luck!

    http://cgi.ebay.com/PARK-FR-8-BMX-Fr...item2eaf072676
    Uhm... I guess I'll take the wheel to a mechanic

    Thank you

  17. #17
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    As already stated, the stock hub is junk, engagement is terrible.

    It blows my mind that Specialized would spec $4,000 plus bikes with such a crappy hub.

    I'm looking to build up some race rims as well, I don't have the money for the Rovals so I'm interested here feedback about other options.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpastore22
    It blows my mind that Specialized would spec $4,000 plus bikes with such a crappy hub.
    I'm actually not surprised. All the big manufacturers do it. Save money in places that people don't notice until they've purchased the bike and ridden it a bunch of times so you can put shinier things in places where they do. Look at the drivetrain on the Expert 29ers... X0 rear mech and crank x7 front mech, and x9 shifter, with an XT cassette.
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAmtbiker
    I'm actually not surprised. All the big manufacturers do it. Save money in places that people don't notice until they've purchased the bike and ridden it a bunch of times so you can put shinier things in places where they do. Look at the drivetrain on the Expert 29ers... X0 rear mech and crank x7 front mech, and x9 shifter, with an XT cassette.
    I totally understand trying to meet certain price points, but as you pointed some of these parts make no sense!

    The KMC chain is junk, I litterally blew 2 links on it after my 3rd ride. The crank on all the Epic 29ers including the Sworks looks low budget and as I mentioned the hub engagnement sux.

    The worst part is, I LOVE my Carbon Comp. The brain is amazing!!! I would've spent more money for upgrades in these areas, but there really not there with the Expert model.

    Just my 2 cents! back to hub options

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAmtbiker
    I'm actually not surprised. All the big manufacturers do it. Save money in places that people don't notice until they've purchased the bike and ridden it a bunch of times so you can put shinier things in places where they do. Look at the drivetrain on the Expert 29ers... X0 rear mech and crank x7 front mech, and x9 shifter, with an XT cassette.
    Actually, if it were an XT cassette, that would be OK. The one spec'd on the website is the HG81, which best as I can tell is an SLX-grade cassette. That said, upgrading any one of those parts isn't too expensive. And honestly, they all perform reasonably well. Whereas, having the stock rear hub be such a low quality component is really not acceptable since having the rear hub fail doesn't just mean buying a new rear hub, but having the entire rear wheel rebuilt as well.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurnerConvert
    Actually, if it were an XT cassette, that would be OK. The one spec'd on the website is the HG81, which best as I can tell is an SLX-grade cassette. That said, upgrading any one of those parts isn't too expensive. And honestly, they all perform reasonably well. Whereas, having the stock rear hub be such a low quality component is really not acceptable since having the rear hub fail doesn't just mean buying a new rear hub, but having the entire rear wheel rebuilt as well.
    True... but since most of us who want race wheels can't afford the rovals, I think a lot of people are going to end up ditching the stock hub and rebuilding with another 142x12 hub so we don't have to deal with adjustments every time we swap wheels.

    On another note, someone should start collecting the hubs when people pull them off then send a shipping crate full of them back to specialized... it would be kinda funny...
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    Quote Originally Posted by PAmtbiker
    True... but since most of us who want race wheels can't afford the rovals, I think a lot of people are going to end up ditching the stock hub and rebuilding with another 142x12 hub so we don't have to deal with adjustments every time we swap wheels.

    On another note, someone should start collecting the hubs when people pull them off then send a shipping crate full of them back to specialized... it would be kinda funny...
    Just what I was thinking! They may get the point.?

  23. #23
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    To all of you that are complaining about less than optimal parts coming on your bike, remember that it's ALL ABOUT PRICE POINT. I can see it from both ends since I own an Expert EVO R 29er and am a Specialized dealer. I got my bike today and just finished taking off the parts that I am not going to use:
    wheels
    cassette
    seatpost
    saddle
    stem
    These will all be replaced with lighter parts and the ones I like and trust and will give me the best performace, durability, and weight. Specialized could have put better parts on their Expert level bikes, but the price would go up. Then customers would complain about high MSRP. Remember, This is not just a Specialized thing either. I had a $5700.00 Cervelo that came with a $300.00 wheel set. In today's market, product manufacturers are picking the best parts for a given price point. If you want all the best parts them spring for the S-Works, but don't complain about the high price tag. Remember, you get what you pay for.
    Specialized BG FIT Master Technician

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrob1775
    If you want all the best parts them spring for the S-Works, but don't complain about the high price tag. Remember, you get what you pay for.
    If you get the 26" 2011 S-Works Epic then you still have to replace the wheels, even with the high price tag.

    Sworks Epics in Action
    .

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304
    If you get the 26" 2011 S-Works Epic then you still have to replace the wheels, even with the high price tag.

    Sworks Epics in Action
    .
    I'm not sure what your point is. You are quoting a conversation about Stumpjumper FSR not EPIC. The wheels that come on the S-Works Epic are incredible whhels! Unfortunately, I.m nt sure they would hold up in the long run under my 200 lbs. I ended up going for Industry Nine XC29 wheels. They should hold up as a dual purpose race/training wheel and give me great performance. Plus the will have a huge bling factor!
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  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrob1775
    I'm not sure what your point is. You are quoting a conversation about Stumpjumper FSR not EPIC. The wheels that come on the S-Works Epic are incredible whhels! Unfortunately, I.m nt sure they would hold up in the long run under my 200 lbs. I ended up going for Industry Nine XC29 wheels. They should hold up as a dual purpose race/training wheel and give me great performance. Plus the will have a huge bling factor!
    Sorry, the post was #29 from this thread discussing the wheels of the 2011 26" S-Works Epic.

    Sworks Epics in Action

    The point being that the wheels on the 2011 26" S-Works Epic aren't top of the range. They feature alloy Roval rims instead of the carbon fibre Roval rims. The alloy Roval wheels on the 2011 26" S-Works Epic also weigh more than the alloy Roval Control SL wheels which came on the 2009 and 2010 26" S-Works Epic.

    If you truly want the lightest top of the range 26" Roval carbon fibre wheels for your 2011 26" S-Works Epic then you have to buy them seperately because they're not standard.

    http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/...jsp?spid=57939

    .

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by WR304
    Sorry, the post was #29 from this thread discussing the wheels of the 2011 26" S-Works Epic.

    Sworks Epics in Action

    The point being that the wheels on the 2011 26" S-Works Epic aren't top of the range. They feature alloy Roval rims instead of the carbon fibre Roval rims. The alloy Roval wheels on the 2011 26" S-Works Epic also weigh more than the alloy Roval Control SL wheels which came on the 2009 and 2010 26" S-Works Epic.

    If you truly want the lightest top of the range 26" Roval carbon fibre wheels for your 2011 26" S-Works Epic then you have to buy them seperately because they're not standard.

    http://www.specialized.com/us/en/bc/...jsp?spid=57939

    .
    Good point, but the "get what you pay for" still holds true. If the Rovals with carbon rims were on the bike, then the price would be higher. You see it many times in the idustry that bikes are down speced from the previous year. This is so there is not as much sticker shock when you see the prices on the new model. Some times inflation climbs quicker than what the product managers think the market will bear. That is when you see down specs. It does not mean you are getting less value. Margins on any retail product have to be at a certain level for a business to sustain itself. If you want to complain about prices, then complain about the economy in general. Just don't do it on a mountain bike forum.
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  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrob1775
    Good point, but the "get what you pay for" still holds true. If the Rovals with carbon rims were on the bike, then the price would be higher. You see it many times in the idustry that bikes are down speced from the previous year. This is so there is not as much sticker shock when you see the prices on the new model. Some times inflation climbs quicker than what the product managers think the market will bear. That is when you see down specs. It does not mean you are getting less value. Margins on any retail product have to be at a certain level for a business to sustain itself. If you want to complain about prices, then complain about the economy in general. Just don't do it on a mountain bike forum.
    I agree with that. I was just pointing out that even the 2011 S-Works bikes aren't immune from cost cutting as they don't necessarily have the best parts as standard.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by herothedog
    I'm converting a Hope II hub for the 142+ through axle. I'm told this is going to work, but can't say if it is or not. I have some doubts from some photos I have seen.
    Don't confuse the nomenclature. You're converting a Hope II hub for the X-12 142 through axle. Hope doesn't build a 142+ compatible hub. The "+" being the differentiation here.

    As for the corner cutting on Specialized's part, I have the Epic S-Works 29er and they advertise it as having XX chainrings. It doesn't.

    As for the carbon wheels. I'm not worried about them holding up under me and I'm a 200+ lber.

    Specialized definitely needs to step up with an EL level wheel like they specced on the Marathon 29er last year with the DT compatible hub and the "+" spacing.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by goneskiian
    As for the corner cutting on Specialized's part, I have the Epic S-Works 29er and they advertise it as having XX chainrings. It doesn't.
    Yes on specialized.com it does say that in the "features" but then again it doesn't in the "technical specifications" and the picture of the bike.

    Can't hurt to call specialized and say something about it.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by GTR2ebike
    Yes on specialized.com it does say that in the "features" but then again it doesn't in the "technical specifications" and the picture of the bike.

    Can't hurt to call specialized and say something about it.
    Yup. Just pointing it out as an example that they even cost cut on their S-Works models. Granted, SRAM doesn't make a XX chain ring set in the ratio that's been specced for the S-Works 29er.

  32. #32
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    Yeah, the S-Works are still cutting corners since the frameset comes with the stock "HI-Lo" rear hub. According to my digital scale it weighs 364 grams and has shotty engagement.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lafawnduh
    Lots of talk about the stock wheels and hubs that come on the Specialized epic 29er. I believe all the models except the S-works is equiped with the same set up. I am not a expert but I think if your spokes are correctly tensioned and relieved the hoops and spokes should give resonalbe service. (don’t trust the factory build) The rear hub may need more attention in order to get good longjevity out of it. I took it apart and this is what I found

    This is what the axel looks like. It spins on two cartrige bearings
    Once you removed the two 17mm lock nuts on the freehub side, did you have to tap or hammer the axle out? Or remove another locking nut somewhere?

    I can remove the two locknuts on the free hub side but the axle won't come out. I have lightly tapped on the axel but don't want to start hammering unless I am sure there are no other lock nuts to be removed.

    Thanks!!!
    Last edited by bikeguy0; 03-06-2011 at 05:58 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by erichwic
    Yeah, the S-Works are still cutting corners since the frameset comes with the stock "HI-Lo" rear hub. According to my digital scale it weighs 364 grams and has shotty engagement.
    Non of the S-Works Epics come with the Joytech hub. If it's either the 26 with the Alloy rimed roval wheel or the 29 with carbon wheel they both have the guts of the DT star ratchet hubs like the 240.

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    bikeguyO, I used a wooden mallet to tap the drive side after the nuts are removed. I believe you are doing it correct, you just need to hit it harder. The drive side bearing is more difficult. Let me know if you need help with that one. I don’t know the recommended way to remove it but what I did was quite simple. When you have the bearings out pull off the seals and re-grease. The stock grease looked very weak.

  36. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpastore22
    The crank on all the Epic 29ers including the Sworks looks low budget and as I mentioned the hub engagnement sux.
    No the crank is the S-Works OS carbon crank. I don't believe anyone thinks this is a low budget crank...

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    I built up a set of XTR hubs for my epic (142+rear) on Stans Crest Rims. I may be looking to sell them though because I want black nipples and these guys have red ones, (petty I know). They have been great and a def improvement over the Epic Expert 29er stock build! Let me know if anyone is interested!

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    Quote Originally Posted by matt3542
    I built up a set of XTR hubs for my epic (142+rear) on Stans Crest Rims. I may be looking to sell them though because I want black nipples and these guys have red ones, (petty I know). They have been great and a def improvement over the Epic Expert 29er stock build! Let me know if anyone is interested!
    matt3542 I'd be interested in those wheels. What do you think you want for them? How many miles so far?

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by jrob1775
    Yeah same here

    I was hoping to get away with the stock wheelset for one season, then upgrade next year when there are more options for 142. With all the talk about these wheels being heavy, weak, and having poor engagement, I'm starting to rethink that strategy.

    Does anyone want to buy a stock wheelset...REAL CHEAP???
    See below for my experience with the stock hubs. I pretty much only rode gravel roads for the first two months I had the bike because the trails were all snowed in. After a couple of "real" rides, the engagement got even worse than stock (hard to imagine, I know), but only on an intermittent basis. After a couple more rides, there were some funny sounds coming from the rear hub. Took the cassette off and a few large pieces dropped to the floor and a whole lot of ball bearings fell out. Massive disappointment! I as already planning to get new wheels to remedy the engagement issue, but I was shocked to find the thing fell apart within a few hundred miles of easy riding.

    I replaced mine with Industry 9s with Arch rims. Love'em!! Highly recommend them! And they fit on easily, just a minor adjustment to the derailleur and I've been pedaling happily ever since.

    I decided to go with I9s (standard 12x142 instead of Specialized's proprietary 142+) instead of Roval Carbons so I don't feel locked into Specialized for my next bike. I really, really like my Specialized Epic Expert 29er, but it's probably not the last bike I will ever buy. The next bike could very well be a Specialized, but maybe not. I decided I9s were more portable to the next bike. The I9s are very modular and configurable, so I see them as an investment that will last for many years, from one bike to the next.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Specialized 142+ rear hub-specialized-rear-hub-breakage-105_6241-cropped-resized.jpg  

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    Anyone know if there is a way to convert the stock 142+ wheel back to a normal 135 rear hub?

    Like many others, I replaced my Specialized wheels and now they are just sitting around. They probably have very little resale, so it would be great if I could at least convert is an use the wheels on my singlespeed or something.
    [

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by KonaSS
    Anyone know if there is a way to convert the stock 142+ wheel back to a normal 135 rear hub?

    Like many others, I replaced my Specialized wheels and now they are just sitting around. They probably have very little resale, so it would be great if I could at least convert is an use the wheels on my singlespeed or something.
    No there is not. The "+" means the hub shell is wider than a standard hub. I'm thinking of gutting my 142+ hub and making it into a wind chime or something...
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  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by MultiRider
    See below for my experience with the stock hubs. I pretty much only rode gravel roads for the first two months I had the bike because the trails were all snowed in. After a couple of "real" rides, the engagement got even worse than stock (hard to imagine, I know), but only on an intermittent basis. After a couple more rides, there were some funny sounds coming from the rear hub. Took the cassette off and a few large pieces dropped to the floor and a whole lot of ball bearings fell out. Massive disappointment! I as already planning to get new wheels to remedy the engagement issue, but I was shocked to find the thing fell apart within a few hundred miles of easy riding.

    I replaced mine with Industry 9s with Arch rims. Love'em!! Highly recommend them! And they fit on easily, just a minor adjustment to the derailleur and I've been pedaling happily ever since.

    I decided to go with I9s (standard 12x142 instead of Specialized's proprietary 142+) instead of Roval Carbons so I don't feel locked into Specialized for my next bike. I really, really like my Specialized Epic Expert 29er, but it's probably not the last bike I will ever buy. The next bike could very well be a Specialized, but maybe not. I decided I9s were more portable to the next bike. The I9s are very modular and configurable, so I see them as an investment that will last for many years, from one bike to the next.

    IIRC, the 142+ only affects the spacing of the hub flanges, but not the axle width. 142 and 142+ are the same width as far as the frame is concerned. Correct me if I am wrong, but a quick measuring will bear that out.
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  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtroy
    IIRC, the 142+ only affects the spacing of the hub flanges, but not the axle width. 142 and 142+ are the same width as far as the frame is concerned. Correct me if I am wrong, but a quick measuring will bear that out.
    Yes, and the spacing of the hub flanges (i.e. outer diameter of the hubs excluding axle) are the same between 135 and 142. The axles are 3.5mm wider (each side) between 135 and 142. 142+ moves the flanges another 2mm further out, but keeps the 142mm spacing...

  44. #44
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    So does this mean that we can use any wheelset as long as it supports 142?

  45. #45
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    Would be nice to get a running list of companies that makes a hub or an adapter that works on these frames....I know I'm in the market for a wheelset. So far, I think King, DT Swiss, Hope and Good 'Oll Hi-Lo crapola is all I am aware of

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by xmangox
    So does this mean that we can use any wheelset as long as it supports 142?
    Yes.

    The "+" is something Specialized added. Does it actually make the wheel stiffer? Probably. Can you feel the difference when riding? Probably not.

    Quote Originally Posted by abbeytrails
    Would be nice to get a running list of companies that makes a hub or an adapter that works on these frames....I know I'm in the market for a wheelset. So far, I think King, DT Swiss, Hope and Good 'Oll Hi-Lo crapola is all I am aware of
    http://www.syntace.com/index.cfm?pid=1&pk=1314

    Scroll down for a list of compatible hubs.

  47. #47
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    So just recapping

    If you buy a std 142 hub for the Epic 29er it just means a slight adjustment in Brake caliper and mech?

    the 142+ hub will not work on any other 142 framed bike - or is it just a case of adjusting the caliper and mech the other way?

    I havent even taken delivery of my epic yet! but wondering how long the hub/wheels will last...

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by NZRob
    So just recapping

    If you buy a std 142 hub for the Epic 29er it just means a slight adjustment in Brake caliper and mech?

    the 142+ hub will not work on any other 142 framed bike - or is it just a case of adjusting the caliper and mech the other way?

    I havent even taken delivery of my epic yet! but wondering how long the hub/wheels will last...
    sort off - the cluster moves outboard by 2mm, but the brake rotor stays the same. Any 142 wheel will fit a 142+ wheel, but as you say the derailleur requires adjustment by 2mm..

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by skiwi
    sort off - the cluster moves outboard by 2mm, but the brake rotor stays the same. Any 142 wheel will fit a 142+ wheel, but as you say the derailleur requires adjustment by 2mm..
    So will the Roval Control SL carbon 142x12 29er wheels fit on a non Specialized bike that uses 142 rear hub?
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  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by arashi
    So will the Roval Control SL carbon 142x12 29er wheels fit on a non Specialized bike that uses 142 rear hub?
    Correct - any of the Spec 142 (X-12) wheels will work in a 142 frame. The 142+wheels though won't. These are specific to the Spec bikes with 142+ frames (S-Works at this time).

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