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  1. #1
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    Rockhopper 2013 Upgrade Suggestions

    Hi, I have a Rockhopper Comp 2013 and was thinking to get some upgrades. What do you suggest?

    This are the specs of my bike:

    -FORK RockShox XC28 29
    -FRONT BRAKE Tektro Draco 2
    -REAR BRAKE Tektro Draco 2
    -BRAKE LEVERS Tektro Draco 2, hydraulic
    -FRONT DERAILLEUR Shimano Acera, 9-speed
    -REAR DERAILLEUR Shimano Deore Shadow, 9-speed, SGS cage
    -SHIFT LEVERS Shimano Alivio, 9-speed Rapidfire plus, SL type
    -CASSETTE Shimano HG20-9, 9-speed cassette, 11-34
    -CRANKSET SR Suntour XCR, 9-speed, Octalink
    -CHAINRINGS 44/32/22, steel
    -BOTTOM BRACKET Shimano, Octalink spline, cartridge bearing, 73mm

    Thanks for the advise.

  2. #2
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    Well, are there any things you currently don't like about the bike or any things you're having issues with? Some of the better performance/weight loss upgrades you could do to that bike are wheels, fork, and crankset. Unfortunately those are also the more expensive upgrades. If you're not completely satisfied with the way the bike fits or feels, you could do some cheap cockpit upgrades.

  3. #3
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    I had some issues with the drivetrain so I was thinking to change it to 2x10

  4. #4
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    I have the same bike. When I bought it in May 2013, I had the shop "lifetime-flat-proof" the tires (for $39/tire!) because my area is particularly bad for goat heads. Then in October, through my own dumbassery I managed to tear the valve stem off the rear tube. This damage is not covered by the shop, of course. Upon removing the tube, I found that it weighed 2 lbs just by itself. Very thick rubber and lots of sealant.
    I knew I didn't want all that weight back in the wheel but I also did not want a regular tube because of the goat head situation.
    So I converted to tubeless with a Stan kit. It made a very noticeable, positive difference. Losing 2 lbs for each wheel made climbing quite a bit easier.
    I love being able to run 20 psi for snow days. Also, no flats.

    I had considered (still am, I guess) upgrading the fork, but I just don't see the need for it quite yet. I have not been in a single situation where I thought to myself that the fork sucks. I always lock it out for climbs. I actively use it only for decents. Sometimes I forget to unlock it. And it really doesn't make much of a difference to me either way, but I suspect that has something to do with my single track being pretty smooth, devoid of roots and rocks.

    TL,DR: Go tubeless. Great upgrade.

  5. #5
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    Depending on what's wrong with your drivetrain, it's pretty unlikely that converting to a 2x10 will fix it. If you're not sure how to tune your drivetrain, swing by a shop and have them take a look at it. The drivetrain components you have aren't high end, but work well enough when tuned properly.

  6. #6
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    What specifically are the problems you having with your drivetrain? Often issues are more related to adjustment than the parts themselves, even at the mid-to-entry level quality that your bike has.

    If you are considering 2x10..at least consider 1x10 if your fitness/trails allow it. You would need new shifters, chain, crank (and possibly a bottom bracket), and cassette. I am not sure if a 9-speed derailleur is 10-speed compatable (I am sure this has been discussed ad nauseam in the drivetrain section....do a search).
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  7. #7
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    Thanks for the help, I will look to convert to tubeless first. Any suggestions on tires? I almost ride on dry conditions hardpack with loose gravel and very loose sand.

  8. #8
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    Eh, I just left the stockers on it as they work fine tubeless. I ride only on hard-packed sand most of the time, though - so I am not a good judge about what would work for your conditions.
    I used to have problems with the rear spinning out in loose sand on climbs. I was considering different tires, but going tubeless and lowering running pressure solved that issue handily.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by pzawadzki View Post
    Thanks for the help, I will look to convert to tubeless first. Any suggestions on tires? I almost ride on dry conditions hardpack with loose gravel and very loose sand.
    I really like Specialized tires. For hardpack, the Fast Trak works great as does the Ground Control (I believe your bike already has these). Even though your bike has GCs, they are the "sport" version with wire bead and are not suitable to be run tubeless. I don't think your rims are tubeless ready so you will need to either use a Stan's conversion kit or go with one of several "ghetto" techniques.
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

    2012 Specialized Stumpy EVO 29 HT

  10. #10
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    I agree with the other posters on going tubeless.

    You will need some Stan's rim tape or Gorilla tape, Stan's sealant, and an air compressor will make airing up the tires alot easier.

    You will need tires that are tubeless ready...like the "Control/2bliss" versions of your tires.

    There are a number of do it yourself videos on Youtube.

    If you are unsure on how to do it on your own...you can always take it to a bike shop.
    Cervelo S2
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  11. #11
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    The stock tires on that bike are indeed the Ground Control Sport tires. Specialized does not state that they are "2Bliss" (tubeless) ready.
    I didn't know that when I did my Stan's conversion kit and they have been working fine with zero issues for me, for three months now in temperatures from 10 - 70 degrees. Recently, I am having to air them up a bit about once a week. They don't go flat, but they will leak down to 15-18 psi.

    Your mileage may vary, I'm just saying that despite them not being tubeless ready, they seem to work fine when used that way.

    PS: I found a CO2 inflator to work far better at seating the bead than a compressor.

  12. #12
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    Thanks everybody!!!

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