Results 1 to 6 of 6
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Stumpjumper61's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    249

    Replacing the X7 front derailleur on 2012 FSR

    I have a 2012 Stumpy FSR carbon and the front derailleur is a SRAM X7. While I really like the Sram shifters (X9) and Rear derailleurs (X9 or X0) I prefer Shimano front derailleurs like the SLX on my 09 Stumpy FSR. Does anyone know what would be a compatible Shimano replacement?

    BTW, there is no "strap" that holds the front derailleur to my seat tube, there is rather a bracket built into the seatpost that has an adapter (kind of like a rotor adapter) that the derailleur simply screws into with two machine screws.

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Snfoilhat's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    441
    On the FSR (full suspension) the front derailer screws into a little bracket attached to the chainstay. You wrote seat post. Unless you meant Stumpjumper (hardtail) and not FSR... (?)
    On the FSR, the Shimano equivalent is their E-Type. It has a big loop of metal for attachement at the bottom bracket, but that loop, when detached, should leave mounting holes exactly like those on your SRAM S3 X7. Then make sure the pull (bottom, I think) matches, and that the FD is OK with chainring size you are running.

    If you have a hardtail, I think all of this applies, except the pull is top and the mount is on the seat tube. You could look at your current FD and see if S3 is stamped on it.
    S3 = E-type - bracket. I believe you can even buy a version where Shimano leaves the bracket off. Hope this helps.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Stumpjumper61's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Posts
    249

    ... and if we just ...

    Quote Originally Posted by Snfoilhat View Post
    On the FSR (full suspension) the front derailer screws into a little bracket attached to the chainstay. You wrote seat post. Unless you meant Stumpjumper (hardtail) and not FSR... (?)
    On the FSR, the Shimano equivalent is their E-Type. It has a big loop of metal for attachement at the bottom bracket, but that loop, when detached, should leave mounting holes exactly like those on your SRAM S3 X7. Then make sure the pull (bottom, I think) matches, and that the FD is OK with chainring size you are running.

    If you have a hardtail, I think all of this applies, except the pull is top and the mount is on the seat tube. You could look at your current FD and see if S3 is stamped on it.
    S3 = E-type - bracket. I believe you can even buy a version where Shimano leaves the bracket off. Hope this helps.
    Thanks for the response. I meant to say seat "tube", not seat post. Yes, E-type is correct sometimes referred to as E2. I spent all evening researching this. It seems front derailleurs come in basically two configs:

    1. Clamp type (older version) and
    2. E-type (newer version without a clamp).

    Looks like manufacturers are starting to build the mounting bracket into the frame to avoid the need for a clamp. Apparently on the e-type all you have to do is screw on the derailleur to a bracket that is already on the frame. I think there is in addition a separate adapter (a small version of a rotor adapter...same idea) for one reason or another...I am guessing its for 3 chain rings versus 2. Learning something every day in this business...

    Looks like this one would work:

    NEW Shimano XT FD-M785 E2 (w/o BB Plate) Dyna Sys Front Derailleur 2x10 | eBay

    The SRAM X7 is 10 times harder to shift when raising from your smaller to larger chain ring than Shimano. I don't know why Sram makes the front derailleur spring so strong. I can understand it with the rear derailleur because you need the speed, but the front? I would rather have it smooth and easy..

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    4
    Hi

    Sorry that this is slightly off your topic but i would like to pick your brains .

    I have a FSR Camber pro and it seems that i have stripped the threads on one of the S3 bracket screws on the X7 and this means the screw wont tighten properly and i think this is whats causing the non existent shifting to the outer ring (cage just wont move over far enough and it seems like it isnt being held in place by the weak screw.

    Do you think if i take off the existing X7 and fit a high clamp mount that would work ?

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Snfoilhat's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    441
    I want to make sure I understand your question. The high clamp bit threw me off. I didn't know any of the Specializeds had round seat tubes anymore, where you could use a clamp.

    But I have been through the stripped threads part. The Spez S3/E2 DMD system has 3 threaded holes, 2 on the chainstay and one on the DMD adapter.

    The chainstay from left to right, rear to front (on an Epic, Camber may differ?)
          (   )         ( T )
    ( T )

    The adapter from left to right, rear to front (on an Epic, Camber may differ?)
          ( T )         (   )
    (   )

    The derailer (any SRAM S3 or Shimano E-type)
          (   )         (   )

    T = threaded

    If any of the threads in the chainstay are stripped (uh oh), I think you want to chase them out with a tap of the original size, maybe get some fresh mounting screws, and use a bunch of thread-locker on whatever derailer you end up installing--hope it stays put and never mess w/ it again.

    If the threads on the DMD adapter are stripped, you can order a new one through a Spez dealer for $4-6 dollars.

    The derailer has no threads (see above) and from your post it doesn't sound like there is anything wrong with it (except perhaps misadjusted), and so I don't see how replacing the X7 can help you.

    I hope this helps.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    4
    Hi

    Thanks for your reply

    The below is the screw thats buggered


    The adapter from left to right, rear to front (on an Epic, Camber may differ?)
    ( T ) ( )
    ( )

    But i dont think its just the adapter as when i took the screw out all burrs of metal came out also so i assumed it went into the frame as it looks like the adapter is plastic.

    So do you think that the loose screw is not causing the issue as my LBS who i dropped it into this morning is suggesting that i replace the mech with a shimano mech that fits onto the BB (E type i think) as they are suggesting that the loose screw is stopping the mech working correctly.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •