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  1. #1
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    Play in my linkage?

    2006 Stumpjumper Expert (triad)

    I have a noise in my bike. Thought it was the headset (because I had just flipped my stem). Looked and looked, retightened stem screws, headcap, etc. No avail.

    Finally I realized where the noise is. I have about 1-2mm of play where the rear shock connects to the part labeled Hollow Link. I can replicate the movement and the noise I hear is what has been driving me crazy (so I know that's what I was looking for).

    So. What do I do? Where do I start, maybe I should say.

    1) what caused this? I just got the bike, might have 100 miles in it. I have bottomed the shock out about 3 times (once hard) but recently got a shock pump and pump the shock before every ride to 200psi. I weigh about 180. Even at 200, I STILL hit bottom on the shock. So what's the deal there? (probably have bottomed the shock total of 5x)

    2) Can I still ride while it's unfixed (while there is play)? I have another mtb, but I want to ride the new one! Will I damage it more? Possible frame damage?

    3) What do I have to do to fix this? Replace the hollowlink? Get the shock serviced? Can I replace the hollowlink myself (I have a stand and most of the tools afaik [hex screw?]) Is it too involved, or would it be cheap to get it done in store?

    4) what can I do to keep this from happening again?

    particulars:
    2006 Stumpjumper Expert (triad)
    I am 180 lbs, shock at 200psi
    XC rider, no big jumps (like 2 ft max).

    I contacted PUSH to see if they could PUSH the shock, but they don't work on the 2006 Triad.

    Any other info needed just let me know. Thanks!!!

  2. #2
    Two wheels are best
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    Paula's '07 Women's Expert (brand new) had the same issue with the play where the shock and link are connected. In her case, I found that the incorrect spacers, that go between the shock and the link on both sides, were installed.

    There was a pretty obvious difference between the correct and incorrect spacers when I had them side by side.
    Never be afraid to try something new.

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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DM-SC
    Paula's '07 Women's Expert (brand new) had the same issue with the play where the shock and link are connected. In her case, I found that the incorrect spacers, that go between the shock and the link on both sides, were installed.

    There was a pretty obvious difference between the correct and incorrect spacers when I had them side by side.
    how did you find out what size spacers to use, and where did you get the replacements? Was it hard to make the swap? Thanks! Sounds like a very reasonable solution to the problem. (I had the hollowlink being bent, in my mind...)

  4. #4
    Two wheels are best
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    I went back to the shop where we purchased the bike. Technically, they are supposed to do the work but, since I had already removed the shock bolt and spacers, they gave me the spacers to install myself.

    They robbed another Stumpy to get the correct spacers so we didn't have to wait on Specialized to ship them.
    Never be afraid to try something new.

    Remember amateurs built the Ark.
    Professionals built the Titanic.

  5. #5
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    nice. Well I got this bike on ebay, so I probably won't be going to that shop.. My lbs is like most, and aren't all that excited to be helping with an internet purchased bike, but I'll take it by there and see what they say.

    Thanks!!

  6. #6
    Big Gulps, Alright!
    Reputation: Berkley's Avatar
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    On the topic of the shock - if you bought the bike used, you'll likely want to service it. I bought an 05 Stumpy Expert (frame & shock) used in August and on the second or third ride, I bottomed it out pretty hard. Blew the seal right out of the bottom. Turns out that the lower seal was littered with holes. I had also had issues with the shock holding pressure. Buying a new seals kit ($6 from Fox, or $9 from PUSH) did the trick. Very easy to install as well.

  7. #7
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    is it hard to replace the seals? something I should get the shop to do?

    I contacted PUSH, and of course the one shock I have is the one they don't have parts for or service. I sorta wanted to go that route, but wasn't convinced. Now I'm sure I'm not.

  8. #8
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    I think you could have one of three issues in order from most to least likely (and least expensive to most expensive):
    1) Bushings on your rear shock eyelet are shot. ($2 part)
    2) Bearings in your shock linkage are shot. ($50 dollar bearing kit plus $50 bucks labor)
    3) Your shock linkage is cracked. (You don't want to know the cost of an unwarrantied replacement)

    The DU bushing you could replace yourself easily provided you have a vice or bolt extractor. The bearings would be hard to do on your own as they are a ***** to get out. And the shock linkage you would most definitely have to talk to a shop about, mainly because you'd need to order it through spesh.

  9. #9
    Big Gulps, Alright!
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScreenName
    is it hard to replace the seals? something I should get the shop to do?

    I contacted PUSH, and of course the one shock I have is the one they don't have parts for or service. I sorta wanted to go that route, but wasn't convinced. Now I'm sure I'm not.
    Very easy to do yourself....

    http://www.pushindustries.com/produc...tle=Components
    http://www.myfoxracingshox.com/fox_accessories.htm

    Either of those seals kits will work. AFAIK, they are the same...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Berkley
    Very easy to do yourself....

    http://www.pushindustries.com/produc...tle=Components
    http://www.myfoxracingshox.com/fox_accessories.htm

    Either of those seals kits will work. AFAIK, they are the same...
    Push told me specifically that they have nothing for me, so I suppose I'd have to go the Fox/rebuild route:
    Quote Originally Posted by Push customer service
    Unfortunately, we don't have any services for the 2006 Triad shock.
    Since it is a unique shock for that bike, none of our upgrade parts
    fit into it. The eye to eye length and stroke are specific to that
    frame and are neither tunable nor available for an after-market
    upgrade. We apologize for any inconvenience. Thanks for considering
    us.

  11. #11
    Two wheels are best
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab
    1) Bushings on your rear shock eyelet are shot. ($2 part)
    Not 100% sure the 2006's are the same but, Paula's 2007 Expert does NOT have a bushing in the lower shock eyelet. When I first removed the shock, I instantly said "Ha Ha!".

    After speaking to Specialized Customer Service, my LBS was told that they didn't use a bushing. The mounting bolt is sized to the shck eyelet.
    Never be afraid to try something new.

    Remember amateurs built the Ark.
    Professionals built the Titanic.

  12. #12
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    I don't mean the specialized mounting hardware bushings, I mean the dry lubricated bushings that prevent ovalization of your shock eyelet in every fox shock (http://cgi.ebay.com/1-2-DU-Bushing-f...QQcmdZViewItem.)

    It's amazing to me that Specialized would not have any bushing in their 07 model as that would mean that there would be no protection against ovalization of your eyelet, though I have not personally inspected in 07 shock on the stumpy.

  13. #13
    backwoods and backwards
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab
    I don't mean the specialized mounting hardware bushings, I mean the dry lubricated bushings that prevent ovalization of your shock eyelet in every fox shock (http://cgi.ebay.com/1-2-DU-Bushing-f...QQcmdZViewItem.)

    It's amazing to me that Specialized would not have any bushing in their 07 model as that would mean that there would be no protection against ovalization of your eyelet, though I have not personally inspected in 07 shock on the stumpy.
    It's probably that shock eyelet reducer bushing, and I agree with half and half that it'd be stupid to not use one. I own an '04 stumpy and have had to replace mine several times. The reducer is press fit, and I have a auto shop push the old one out with a bearing press. They actually develope play quicker when I used the lockout on the triad. Let us know.
    By the way, new link was $90 plus the $50 for the bushing kit, but the kit covers all 4 pivots.
    Moonbeam's compost-powered hybrid generates a respectable 32 fruit flies per rotting banana peel.

  14. #14
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    well I took the bike to the shop, and sheepishly found that the shock was not tight in the hollowlink. Someone above did suggest to make sure all the bolts were tight, and I checked them (I though) but of course that's the one I missed checking. It was loose, and tightening it fixed my noise.

    The LBS said that my shock looked "stuck down" and I agreed to let them rebuild it since they said they could do it right then. The same gasket kit someone linked above was $25 there. I didn't realize it was the same thing, or clearly I would have paid over 400% more than I had to.... and the work wasn't hard; I watched the guy do it and I could have done it... So I paid for the kit (too much) and then for an hour of labor. I really feel hosed. But whatever. Sort of turned me off to the LBS with them jacking the price by 400%.

    They said my shock had air in the "negative space". I don't know. whatever. It looks like it might extend about half an inch more now than it did, so ok.

    That's that. Maybe the only problem I'll have. And now I am sure I can do it myself.

  15. #15
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    Always look on the bright side of life. For the price payed, you have also learned a few things: always check your nuts , air in negative chamber is a very bad thing (it was there, because somebody opened the shock and didn't assemble it back in right way). When performong services on your forks and shocks it's good to first see somebody doing it. And then check (or even before) Kelstr's manuals - see thread: "If you have own Specialized...."

  16. #16
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    G'day everyone.
    Haven't posted for a while.

    On the subject of rear shock bushings, my '06 SJ developed a ridiculously loud creak, which after much stuffing around turned out to be this bushing.

    I managed to press it out, cleaned it and replaced it with a tiny amount of grease - squeak gone.

    Anyway, the bush now rotates with finger pressure in the eyelet, where it was a resistance fit previously.

    Is that OK, or is the bush worn and requires replacement?
    Any thoughts much appreciated.

    ScreenName:- I put a dab of loctite on that main shock bolt to stop it working loose (had the same visit to the bike shop after a couple of rides)

    Cheers.
    ride your bike, ride, ride, ride...

  17. #17
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    I think grease on the eyelet is a no-no. It is already dry lubricated on the ID with some usually orangish teflon like substance, and you don't want it sliding around on the OD. Someone told me that grease could lead to premature wear. I would clean it well next time, and just make sure it's dry before popping it back in.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab
    I think grease on the eyelet is a no-no. It is already dry lubricated on the ID with some usually orangish teflon like substance, and you don't want it sliding around on the OD. Someone told me that grease could lead to premature wear. I would clean it well next time, and just make sure it's dry before popping it back in.
    My 06 started creaking after 2 rides. I pull the bolts and grease the shock eyelets every 3 months. No play and no creaks after 2 years ( I ride 3 times a week). The shock bushings appear to be plain sleeves (not DU type).

  19. #19
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    I've heard about the bushings going out of round, so might get a new one anyway.

    I'd hate to ovalise the eyelet in my RP23.

    There is a definite improvement in the suppleness (is that a word) of the rear's travel since greasing up the bushing (I guess it was virtually seized before), but am worried about the grease making a paste when some grit gets into it.

    Thanks.
    ride your bike, ride, ride, ride...

  20. #20
    Big Gulps, Alright!
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScreenName
    Push told me specifically that they have nothing for me, so I suppose I'd have to go the Fox/rebuild route:
    If you're talking about sending it in, then yes, only Fox will do it. But if you're doing it yourself, it doesn't matter. Both kits contain the same exact seals. I have an 05 Triad and it's safe to say the internals weren't greatly changed in 06. Push won't do it because of the eye to eye and shock stroke. The seals have nothing to do with that however.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by half_man_half_scab
    I don't mean the specialized mounting hardware bushings, I mean the dry lubricated bushings that prevent ovalization of your shock eyelet in every fox shock (http://cgi.ebay.com/1-2-DU-Bushing-f...QQcmdZViewItem.)

    It's amazing to me that Specialized would not have any bushing in their 07 model as that would mean that there would be no protection against ovalization of your eyelet, though I have not personally inspected in 07 shock on the stumpy.
    That's the same bushing I stated was not used on Paula's '07 Womens Stumpy Expert. The first thing I said (very loudly, too!) after I removed the shock, was "The dumba$$es left the shock eye bushing out!"

    After my LBS told me that Specialized told him there was supposed to be a bushing...I called them myself. I was was told the same thing my S's CS...no bushing.

    I slid the mounting bolt on Paula's bike onto the shock eye and, it's fairly close. There is very little play between the bolt and the shock eye.

    Paula's bike has the Fox Brain Fade shock...FWIW. She's been riding for almost a year now...bushingless!
    Never be afraid to try something new.

    Remember amateurs built the Ark.
    Professionals built the Titanic.

  22. #22
    Quimmerman
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    Whats wrong with the manuafacturers out there when they cant supply the right shock bushes? Just got an 06 stumpy and fox triad on a frame warranty and the same thing has happened- after 5 rides its got play in the system! Bah! After about 5 rides too!

    as a slight aside- what would a frame like that be worth? Looking to sell it on and so need an idea as to what its worth. Put prices in US$ and Ill convert it into the mickey mouse NZ$.

    PS anyone wanna buy the Fu***r?

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