PF BB 30 Maintenance
My bb was creaking bad towards the end of the season so I decided to pull the bb. I got my bb out of my stumpy last night using a punch and malllet.
So when I pickup a new bb does it come with the plastic cups and seals? Also any tips on getting the new bb back in the frame. I was just gonna use a block of wood and a mallet. No sense in buying a expensive press. Or I can make one with a threaded rod, nuts,and washers.
Dam I miss my threaded bb on my old stumpy, hate these new PF bb.
A new PF BB comes with the cups and bearings. It MAY have some spacers. You should reuse your spacers as they don't wear out.
I would make a press from threaded rod, nuts, washers. Always better to slowly press in rather than punching in. Also, press in one side at a time, that way you can control the process better to ensure it goes in square.
The BB instructions will tell you if you should install as a complete unit, cup and bearing, or individually, cup then bearing.
Are your bearings worn out, notchy? If not, you can reuse by picking out the bearing seal, clean out old grease, apply new grease, replace seal. Good for another 1,000+ km.
The creaking comes from movement between the cups and frame. There are a few methods to make that quiet. Light grease, carbon paste, dry, even epoxy glue. Check with Specialized to see what they recommend for your frame.
14 SW Epic WC - 21.8 lb
12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4
12 SJ FSR Exp EVO29 -28
11 SW Epic 29 - sold
10 Devinci Wilson 4 -37
Thanks for the reply. Yeah the bearings are toast, they were rough when spinning and had quit a bit of corrosion. I will go the press method.
I had some movement between the cups and the frame (carbon frame) and went with a Chris King BB. With the King tool you can flush the bearings from the inside. I do this every 6 months and have no noise out of any of my CK BBs (1 steel threaded, 1 Ceramic Threaded, 1 Steel PF)
CK stuff is pricey, but the feel of quality is worth it. I was just not happy about needing a different grease injector for the PF30 vs the traditional, but ohhh well.
You should press in the new bearings in their cups and then press the cups into the frame. You will find that you can press the cups in a fair way with your hands, but the final few mm's require a lot of effort. If you don't have a proper press, use a rubber mallet and tap the OD of the CUPS to knock them in. Do not ever hit the bearing unless you can be sure that you are only hitting the OD of the bearing.
WRT creaking, 99% of the time it sounds like it is coming from the BB, but I have twice now found that the noise was really coming form a loose cassette. The way XX is torqued up on the FWH means that any looseness will cause a creak under load (basically the cassette twisting between the low and high gears) - exactly as you would expect a BB creak to sound under load.
WRT PF30, I've now had close to 1,000kms on a Wheels Manufacturing Alloy PF30 BB with "angular contact" bearings. Excellent unit and given me no noise, or trouble.
I have a C-Bear ceramic PF30 BB in my 2012 Epic, and it has been perfect through some pretty tough conditions. Smooth as silk, and silent. The C-Bear alloy cups make a lot of sense to me. I also have a C-Bear OSBB Campy adapter in my Tarmac, and it also has been totally trouble-free. C-Bear stuff isn't cheap, but they make precision high quality parts.
waiting for a piece (.45)
Specialized recommends that you clean out any remaining grease, oil, carbon paste out of the BB area and off of the plastic cups. Press the bearings into the cups first and then use 3M Dp420 Epoxy to glue the plastic cups in place in the frame, installing the crank and torquing everything down at the time of initial installation to ensure that everything is correctly aligned.....
Interesting that they now look to be recommending Epoxy after years of silence. Also ironically that my 2011 Carbon PF30 BB is now trouble-free, creak-free and RHS chain stay impact free.
Originally Posted by SpecialWarr
I certainly won't be using Epoxy. if it ain't broken, don't fix it.
BTW another note on the BB "creak" issue. Recently after 3 weeks of solid riding, I started to hear the "tick" from the BB when cranking up a hill. Although you would swear that the sound if is coming from the BB, now, when I hear that sound, I routinely check the XX cassette and tighten it up which makes the creak disappear. This time I changed the XX lock nut out (the cassette has 2,500kms on it), and that hopefully will mean less bother in future.
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