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Thread: Pf 30 issues

  1. #1
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    Pf 30 issues

    Anyone else had problems with their pf30 bottom brackets? I have about 30 miles on my Stumpy fsr evo. Already noise and play in the bottom bracket when climbing. Everything else seems tight.

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    Stock ones do seem pretty poor, I have heard better things about the Wheels' ones and Chris king now offer a PF30 BB with a 5 year warranty.

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    I was told not every shop takes the bb apart and grease before they sell it. Its not a must but after paying a shop a good deal pf money to do it adter the fact, my bb is silence again.

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    Pf 30 issues

    The only problem I've had is that mine seized up after only 1200km of riding and I've had to buy a new one.

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    Take ti back to the LBS and get them to check it. You can/should fit PF30 spacers to optimise the end-float of the setup.

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    i had to replace mine after 6 weeks, went for a ceramic replacement - now 14 months later it is still fine. the original pf30 is so lame.

  7. #7
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    Use enduro pf30 cups and bearings.
    The arsonist has oddly shaped feet!

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    Hey guys looking to service my stumpy fsr pf30 bb this winter. What are all the tools I need? I now kinda miss my old threaded bb, those are soo easy to service.

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    It just needs to be adjusted. Its easy to work on - just remove the crank arm with the self-extracting bolt and put it out. Grease the crap out of everything. There is a "pre-load" adjuster on one side, it probably just needs to be tightened down a 1/2 a turn or so to tighten it all up. My noises have stemmed from the crank arm/spindle interface so I use a liberal amount of grease on that. I am 1.5 years on mine riding the crap out of it problem free...nothing on a bike is maintenance free.
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    The PF30 is a crap design, and I own a 2013 Stumpy EVO with PF30. Specialized now recommends using a 3M 2 part adhesive to effectively "glue" the bb cups into the frame. I currently have about 500 miles on mine, with this adhesive, and a raceface PF30 cup to 24mm spindle bottom bracket, and it has been problem free, for now. With proper initial assembly and routine checks every now and then it should be okay for a while, however, I still think it's a poor design and a threaded BB is far superior on many levels.

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedsterR View Post
    The PF30 is a crap design, and I own a 2013 Stumpy EVO with PF30. Specialized now recommends using a 3M 2 part adhesive to effectively "glue" the bb cups into the frame. I currently have about 500 miles on mine, with this adhesive, and a raceface PF30 cup to 24mm spindle bottom bracket, and it has been problem free, for now. With proper initial assembly and routine checks every now and then it should be okay for a while, however, I still think it's a poor design and a threaded BB is far superior on many levels.
    Nah, there's nothing wrong with the design, I believe that the use of cups is a great move and certainly helps tolerance vs BB30. The issue I believe is more with the manufacturers getting their heads around the design and learning to optimize frames and cranks. Certainly that was the issue with my 2011 - the chain stays were too close to the cranks, and I went through a bearing set due to incorrect spacers being fitted. No issues since then, 4,000kms ago.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by speedsterR View Post
    The PF30 is a crap design, and I own a 2013 Stumpy EVO with PF30. Specialized now recommends using a 3M 2 part adhesive to effectively "glue" the bb cups into the frame. I currently have about 500 miles on mine, with this adhesive, and a raceface PF30 cup to 24mm spindle bottom bracket, and it has been problem free, for now. With proper initial assembly and routine checks every now and then it should be okay for a while, however, I still think it's a poor design and a threaded BB is far superior on many levels.
    Where did you hear that Specy is recommending adhesive?
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    It is in the manual now. They recommend putting the adhesive on the cups before pressing them in.

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    Cool, thanks for the info. Anyone care to scan in that part for me to see or point me towards it online?
    Geologist by trade...bicycle mechanic (former) by the grace of God!

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    I've resolved myself to cleaning and lubing whenever mud or water is involved in my rides. Gonna try the Enduro bearings when these finally go, or Maybe the Chris Kings will be available by then.

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    The design isn't bad. It just has to be implemented properly.

    The stock bearings are ****. Mine seized up in less than a month albeit I was racing in some muddy conditions. Replaced with Enduro bearings. OK for now. Will be replacing with a CK PF30 bb soon.

  17. #17
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    Pf 30 issues

    If you're using a Shimano 24mm axle chainset in a PF30 bottom bracket shell the Praxis conversion bottom bracket looks like a good option. It uses a threaded expander so shouldn't work loose.

    http://praxiscycles.com/pages/conversion

    .

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by dypeterc View Post
    The design isn't bad. It just has to be implemented properly.
    No, press fit BBs are pretty bad. Cool conversion BB above.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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    I have been using specialized's stock pf30 cups on my Demo and Stumpjumper for 3 years now with zero issues.I have seen one stumpjumper with a creaky bb but no failures.Are you guys pressing the cups in dry?

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    Honestly, there was nothing wrong with the old Shimano cartridge BBs...trying to fix something that wasn't broken. My PF30 hasn't been terrible, just have to do maintenance.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Honestly, there was nothing wrong with the old Shimano cartridge BBs...trying to fix something that wasn't broken.
    BB wasn't a problem but the crank axle was heavy/flexy.

  22. #22
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    PF30 is mainly used by manufacturers to cut-out precision machining costs(alloy) and added carbon layup processes. Why does a top-tier maker like Specialized scrimp on this AND still charge us a huge premium?

    I had zero problems, with Cannondale's original BB30.....but I simply could not hang with their Lefty forks.
    "The ONLY person who needs to race.....is the entrant"

  23. #23
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    I've been through three sets of bearings now. I tried to order a CK bb30 but they are out of stock. It really sucks when you get 100 miles out of a set and they start to creek and crack.

    Pulled my wifes cranks off yesterday to check hers and they have crapped themselves too. I don't have a problem with bb30 persay but better bearings would be nice.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by syl3 View Post
    BB wasn't a problem but the crank axle was heavy/flexy.
    You mean square taper? People started breaking the spindles left and right as riding progressed into "jumps and drops".

    But as stated above, press-fit solves the problem that it's hard to make small carbon fiber structures, so it's easier to use the press-fit standard (and apply it across the board).
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    I've been through three sets of bearings now. I tried to order a CK bb30 but they are out of stock. It really sucks when you get 100 miles out of a set and they start to creek and crack.
    I've been through 2 sets of bearings in 5,000kms. I thought a bunch of creaking and groaning was the BB bearings and cursed them for half the summer when I was away from home and without tools. Got home striped the cranks, no issues. Swapped the rear wheel and voila creaking and groaning gone. My cassette was loose.

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by syl3 View Post
    BB wasn't a problem but the crank axle was heavy/flexy.
    For XC riding, they were just fine. Quantify "flex"....never noticed.
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  27. #27
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    Pf 30 issues

    The Chris King PF30 bottom brackets are quite expensive at $165 USD for steel bearings and $235 USD for the ceramic bearings.

    http://www.glorycycles.com/chkipfbobr.html

    You need to budget $55 USD for the Chris King grease injector too, along with a grease gun for flushing the bearings with fresh grease.

    http://chrisking.com/PFBB

    Along with the 30mm axle version of the Chris King PF30 bottom bracket there's also a 30mm to 24mm stepdown version apparently:

    http://www.bikeradar.com/news/articl...ke-2012-35277/

    A cheaper option that could be worth a try are the Enduro bearing bottom brackets. They offer a PF30 bottom bracket with steel angular contact bearings for $62 USD alongside their more expensive ceramic XD-15 PF30 bottom brackets:

    http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id232.html
    Last edited by WR304; 07-05-2013 at 04:18 AM.

  28. #28
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    I've been through 2 sets of bearings in 5,000kms. I thought a bunch of creaking and groaning was the BB bearings and cursed them for half the summer when I was away from home and without tools. Got home striped the cranks, no issues. Swapped the rear wheel and voila creaking and groaning gone. My cassette was loose.
    Not me. Pulled the cranks after alot of noise and the drive side bearing had almost siezed on the factory set. On the second set I was getting a loud cracking noise that sounded like and old school square taper arm that was loose. Pulled the crank and the bearing had a catch in it. I tried to clean it out and regrease with finish line synthetic but no luck. Third set is starting to show wear.

    I ordered a CK bb but was sent a 24 buy accident. When I called back to get the 30 they where out of stock.

    If I hadn't got such a good deal on some XO bb30 cranks I would just swap everything to english and be done with it.

    The bearings are either just too small or cheap.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  29. #29
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    My issues were mainly the related to the crank arm/spindle interface. I also had to tighten down the pre-load adjuster ring once to get rid of a tick. Overall, the bearings have been just fine, have put hundreds of miles on them since last year including some in not-so-ideal (read wet/muddy) conditions and had no real issues. I just think the sealed ST BBs were so bullet proof.....The UN-91 (XTR) was one of the finest BBs ever made.
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  30. #30
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    Not trying to thread jack, but does anyone have the specialized part number for the PF30? Mine is on its way out and since my bike isnt available here in Oki I cannot get it from the lbs. My bike has less than 500 HARD miles on it. With a washing after every ride.
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  31. #31
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    It's not a specialized part, its a sram part. Any bike shop can get it for you.
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    Quote Originally Posted by MidNight_Rider View Post
    Not trying to thread jack, but does anyone have the specialized part number for the PF30? Mine is on its way out and since my bike isnt available here in Oki I cannot get it from the lbs. My bike has less than 500 HARD miles on it. With a washing after every ride.
    PF30 Press-in Cup: #S111600013
    OSBB Bearing (42 x 30 x 7mm): #9890-5005

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    I also had to tighten down the pre-load adjuster ring once to get rid of a tick.
    What is the "pre-load adjuster ring"?

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    It's not a specialized part, its a sram part. Any bike shop can get it for you.
    Correct, the oem cups are sram.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sugar_Brad View Post
    Correct, the oem cups are sram.
    Regardless of who makes them, I have posted the Spec part numbers for the cups and the bearings. Also, don't think that the SRAM PF30 BB kit is an equivalent part to the OEM Spec kit. It isn't, and the lack of a spacer has caused me pause in using it. Hence I have one of the shelf and I have the OEM kit on the bike.

  36. #36
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    Follow up after a month of riding the press fit bearings. Kept experimenting with the preload on the left side crank arm until the noise went mostly away. Also coated the outside of the bearings with lithium grease. Seems to keep most of the water out. Has been an unusually wet summer in the southeast.

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    My PF30 bottom bracket in my Stumpy EVO Expert failed after about 200 miles of winter riding. It started making creaking noise on steep hard climb.

    The one on the crank side is the worst one, the other side seems ok. I tried cleaning and re-greasing the bearings. It seem ok when it's not pressed in but as soon as I put it in, I can feel plenty of drags.

    Off they go and replaced them with Chris King ceramic PF30 BB. I greased the BB when I pressed them in. CK has a different/weird design, the actual bearings are slightly larger than the crank spindle. They come with hardened plastic spindle sleeve that make the contact with the bearings.

    I was a little skeptical about the design but so far I have 100+ miles with no play or noise coming from the BB. Definitely worth the $$ IMO

  38. #38
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    I have gotten a huge amount of water in my BB area recently. I reall think that's what has been killing bb30 bearings. I'm running a thomson masterpiece post that is not closed at the top. I belive most of the water is coming in that way during wet rides. The seat is acting like a gutter and just making the water run right down the post and into the BB shell.

    Going to pull the post and look into shoving a cork down there
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  39. #39
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    Pf 30 issues

    Quote Originally Posted by terrible View Post
    I have gotten a huge amount of water in my BB area recently. I reall think that's what has been killing bb30 bearings. I'm running a thomson masterpiece post that is not closed at the top. I belive most of the water is coming in that way during wet rides. The seat is acting like a gutter and just making the water run right down the post and into the BB shell.

    Going to pull the post and look into shoving a cork down there
    Have you made sure that the drain hole in the underside of the bottom bracket shell is unobstructed, to allow any water that gets in the frame to run out again?

  40. #40
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    There is no factory drain hole. I made one and also put one in the bottom bracket bearing holder (plastice cup) incase anything gets in, it can also get out.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

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    Thought about making a drain hole. Not sure how specialized would feel about that on a warranty claim. I have water in there every time I pull the bearings. Same thing with the drive side having drag when installed.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigb2000 View Post
    Thought about making a drain hole. Not sure how specialized would feel about that on a warranty claim. I have water in there every time I pull the bearings. Same thing with the drive side having drag when installed.
    My 2011 SW doesn't have a drain hole either, but it also doesn't get water in there (well, very, very little). Certainly not enough to be an issue provided you use good BB grease.

    How do you think water is getting in - through the seat stem?

  43. #43
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    I once turned my bike upside down without the seatpost installed, and i had quite a bit of water coming out of there, more than a few drops. This was likely from a wash a few days ago, collected in the bottom braket area. I made it a habbit to dry my bike that way after washing.

    But i think the PF30 bearings are not in danger, the plastic shells separate them from the bottom braket area, and those have a tight seal, with an o-ring, against each other.

  44. #44
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    But i think the PF30 bearings are not in danger, the plastic shells separate them from the bottom braket area, and those have a tight seal, with an o-ring, against each other.
    They are but the o-ring between the two is not water tight.
    "I'm the fastest of the slow guys"

  45. #45
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    Ok...I stand corrected...my PF30 BB is hammered. Took it apart tonight to investigate a noise in the area and yep...need a new one. It lasted 1.5 years so that isn't bad as I have ridden a lot in that time. I think the weak point is the exposure and the fact that you need a press and a removal tool..somethings I will leave to the shop!
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  46. #46
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    Even ceramic BB30 is not immune. Mine lasted 1.2 years, @ about 1400 miles.
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  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by TiGeo View Post
    Ok...I stand corrected...my PF30 BB is hammered. Took it apart tonight to investigate a noise in the area and yep...need a new one. It lasted 1.5 years so that isn't bad as I have ridden a lot in that time. I think the weak point is the exposure and the fact that you need a press and a removal tool..somethings I will leave to the shop!
    You don't need a press or removal tool. Use a punch to knock the old bearings out and then the new ones should insert by hand. Worst case use the old bearings to knock the new ones in.

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    Quote Originally Posted by speedracers4 View Post
    Off they go and replaced them with Chris King ceramic PF30 BB. I greased the BB when I pressed them in. CK has a different/weird design, the actual bearings are slightly larger than the crank spindle. They come with hardened plastic spindle sleeve that make the contact with the bearings.

    I was a little skeptical about the design but so far I have 100+ miles with no play or noise coming from the BB. Definitely worth the $$ IMO
    What kind of prep did you do to the surface of the BB when you pressed out the old cups? Did you have any residual epoxy from the bonding? Also, I've read that you press in the CK PF cups dry (no grease)

  49. #49
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    Anyone try or have the Chris King Ceramic PF30? Did you notice a difference from the standard steal bearings?

  50. #50
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    Thanks for the numbers man. It rains here everyday and mine lasted a whopping 4 months. I think in conjunction with the constant rain and water, the clay helped the bearings get destroyed. For reference not all bike shops can order stock American parts. I usually order parts online so I have to double check everything before placing an order and waiting around 3 weeks.
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