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  1. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by zephxiii View Post
    Here is mine, I LOVE this bike!!!!:



    Is this a 1999 model year? I want to go over the rear suspension and rebuild it if needed...but I'm not sure how to go about that. How do i go about getting the coil spring out of there so I can relax the tension to go over the pivot points etc.? Do i need a spring compressor? Can i get replacement pivot points and bearings for it somewhere?

    I saw someone had discs mounted front and back. I would LOVE to have that! I know the Judy has the mounting point but there isn't one on the rear triangle

    I don't mind the coil spring on the trails, fine by me. I just want to make sure the rear triangle is all good and tight.
    I believe that is a 1999 FSR Comp. Taking the shock off is pretty easy, support the rear wheel and remove the mounting hardware. You could just grab a handful of wheel and give it a side to side wiggle and test the rearend. As far as replacement parts, I'm not sure where to get those. As for rear disc mounts, there is an adaptor called a Shark fin, I believe, for mounting disc brakes on one of these. Nice lookin rig.
    Oldest daughter doesn't ride, she fights MMA.

  2. #77
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    Re: Old School FSR rebuild

    I got it at the end of 2011 and have put at least 2000 miles on it, 98% of them being urban/pavement. I thought i was feeling play in the rear but will have to look into it. It's been my favourite bike I've ever owned so far.

    Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2
    2012 Scott Spark 29 Team
    2013 Scott Scale 970
    2011 Scott Speedster S20
    1999 Specialized FSR Comp

  3. #78
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    Thats the same as mine. It is a 99 FSR comp. I have disks on mine. The front is easy just buy and install. The back was a different matter. I got an A2Z rear disk adapter. Be warned they are advertised as NOT compatable with Spesh dropouts. I had to butcher it to make it work to my satisfaction. Basically the angle of the A2Z dropouts mean that you cant remove your wheel at least not easily. I had to cut off part of the dropout section, this section had the threaded hole for the front plate. These things pretty much just clamp on (which is crap) Luckily the dropout on the bike has a hole in the centre. I made a new plate for the adapter and put a screw through it and the bike dropout with a nylock nut on it.This replaces the hole and screw I cut off of the adapter. I clamped it up and even with a 203 disc on it it isnt slipping. I have since then put a smaller rotor on as 203mm is ridiculous. The bigger problem is the pivot bolt on the seatstay it will rub on the disc. I have flipped it so the nut is on the outside and ground the head as thin as I could. I am not sure if its really worth the trouble but once I started I had to get it working. I had already bought the brakes so I was kind of committed. If your not really mechanically minded I wouldnt bother with the rear. Get hold of some good v brake pads and just accept it. Having said that now that I have it finished I am happy with the result there was just a lot of dicking around to get it done. The shark fin adapter might be easier but I think the pivot bolt would still be an issue and they are almost impossible to find. Of course you need disc ready wheels too so its not a cheap change over.If your interested I can post some photos of mine for you to look out. In short front good back bad.

  4. #79
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    Some nice old rides in here. I had a '99 Big Hit Extreme. It would still be in my stables if it wasn't pinched a few years back. It had parts swapped out as things wore and as I realised a lot of it short comings componentwise. But it was still a trusty stead and the link bushes and bearing never gave me any trouble in the nearly 10 years of riding. I pulled the rear triangle apart and greased up the bushings on a number of occasions. Very reliable and strong frames.
    I still have the Avid Arch Rival's from it awaiting a retro build one of these days.

    Someone is selling one of those disc brake adaptors here - Specalized fsr disk brake adaptor | Trade Me
    Damn expensive for something so old. I paid less then double that brand spankers in the early 00's. That all the way over here in NZ too anyway.

  5. #80
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    Re: Old School FSR rebuild

    Thanks!

    Old School FSR rebuild-uploadfromtaptalk1363821483856.jpg

    Ok I found some Nylon bushings, any chance of getting these somewhere?

    They aren't bad at the moment but it would be nice to have for the future....

    Sent from my MB865 using Tapatalk 2
    2012 Scott Spark 29 Team
    2013 Scott Scale 970
    2011 Scott Speedster S20
    1999 Specialized FSR Comp

  6. #81
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    02 fsr

    Hey guys and gals, my first post. I just picked up an 02 last night. They owner had upgraded the brakes to disk, and had a monkey light bar put on, plus some nice velocaraptor tires. But that old brake lever shifter has got to go! My only worry is to upgrade the shifter and brake levers it will cost me about as much as the bike did to start with. Bike shop wants to keep with the XT parts. Or I could go cheap and put on entry level parts. What do you guys think? My goal is to get back into mountain biking and lean skills to become a better rider. Yeah one day I'd like to get a new bike, so this is just a bike to get me started again. But when I am going to pay $300 for parts, I think I should just save it for a newer bike. What would you guys do?

  7. #82
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    I say go ahead and upgrade piece by piece. You can find great sales on thing like Avid Speed Dial levers or Grip Shifts, especially since we are talking about an 8 or 9 speed drive trains. Old FSRs hold up well to upgrades.

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