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Official Specialized Enduro Thread

681K views 2K replies 441 participants last post by  MTBiker2477 
#1 ·
Hi, like the title says, please post your Enduro pictures and build specs! I know there's a 2010 Enduro thread but lets just include every model year in this...

I'll Start,

2011 Specialized Enduro Expert Frame - the only stock item on this bike. Built from the frame up with:
1. Rock Shox Lyrik 2 step 160mm travel with DH damper and Maxle.

2. Monarch Plus Rear Shock - PUSH'ed

3. Mavic 819's laced to King Hubs w/DT Swiss Comp double-butted spokes, alloy nipples. Rear hub w/Fun Bolts

4. XO Shifters and XO Rear Derailleur.

5. Race Face Atlas 175 Crankset with e13 chain guide, bash guard and RF Crank End Caps.

6. Chris King serviceable Bottom Bracket.

7. Cane Creek 110 headset.

8. Thompson Elite seatpost & Specialized Henge 143 saddle.

9. Maxxis Minion EXO 3C 2.5 DHF tires - tubeless.

10. Wipperman Connex chain and SRAM 990 11-34 cassette

11. Syncros Bar - 720mm width/1.5" rise and 60mm/8 degree rise stem.

12. Formula the One Brakeset, 180mm rotors, and Calipers w/Goodridge G* pads

13. Crank Brothers Candy 3 pedals.

32 pounds as shown.:cool:
 

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#1,428 ·
With the headset it might be that your steer tube is too long try putting one more spacer in there... Remember to do the top bolt first then the stem bolts after... Rear shock I'm not 100% sure, but check the linkage bolts make sure they are all tight...

It's hard to believe a shop would sell you a bike like that... That's top customer service right there...


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#1,432 ·
Nope, it should have been brand spankin' new. It just makes me kind of sick to think that I just paid $4000 for a bike that I can't even ride due to poor quality control by Specialized and/or the bike shop. A similar thing happened to a new handgun I just purchased. The thing nearly came apart after firing it a few times and the manufacturer has had it for the past two months. Maybe things just aren't built like they used to be? Or maybe I just have rotten luck. :p
 
#1,434 ·
Quite possible the bike shop used your bike for replacement parts and didn't replace the correct bearing back on the bike... I work on a bike shop and never seen a bike coming from the factory like that...

They probably had the bike in a box and needed some bearings for a clients bike or something, so he didn't had to wait for the part to arrive...


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#1,436 ·
Quite possible the bike shop used your bike for replacement parts and didn't replace the correct bearing back on the bike... I work on a bike shop and never seen a bike coming from the factory like that...

They probably had the bike in a box and needed some bearings for a clients bike or something, so he didn't had to wait for the part to arrive...

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Yeah, I wouldn't be surprised. I'd like to give people the benefit of the doubt but too often it seems workers will take the easy/sleazy route. I can never seem to find a quality and honest shop or mechanic, whether it be for cars, bikes, or otherwise.
 
#1,437 ·
Hi. Most probably this is not the issue but do you have the headset tighten when you instal everything back? If you don't then the there will be some play.

So make sure that when you instal everything back you will have enough gap between the top spacer and the top of the steerer tube so once you tighten them they will not touch and all parts of the headset will be properly tighten together. Also first tighten everything together and then tighten the stem at the end.

If you have done all the above and still have play take it back to the LBS and have it fixed.
 
#1,438 ·
Yeah, I know about that from previous bikes. I tightened it first from the top down with like 3mm of space above the steerer and even tried moving the stem in different spots to see if it would make a difference but no matter what I tried, it still had the play. I guess I'll ask them what they can do. I was hoping not to have to do another 7 hour (3.5 both ways) road trip again but it looks like I might not have a choice. Thanks for your help everyone!
 
#1,440 ·
I'm noticing there is no headset spacer below the stem (3? above) Maybe with no spacer below the stem, pressure is not being applied properly to get the split ring tight enough? If you haven't already - I'd try putting one spacer below the stem re-tightening things down.

As for the shock, this is a CTD shock? Does it behave the same in all 3 positions?
 
#1,441 ·
i had the exact same issue....
unfortunately i didnt document it very well.
so, i had to buy headset spacers (1&1/8)
and 2mm ( i think) and stack it
on top of the split washer and under the headset cap...

its the only way, unless u want to get new bearings,
which u dont need to do.

the headset top cap should eventually sit just above the frame surface
and move with the steering (once you clamp your stem down)

i can get you a pic later if you need.
 
#1,443 ·
I had a similar issue as well and did the same thing as mtbwrider. Do the handlebars move freely when the stem nut is tightened? If not, the stem cap is contacting the frame before the split washer and you will need a spacer on top of the split washer but below the cap. First just try putting a spacer under the stem cap and torqueing everything down to see if it tightens up the sloppiness. If it does, then you will have to figure out exactly how tall of a spacer you will need. I used a carbon one that was close and sanded it down with a very fine grit sandpaper on a flat surface to get the spacing perfect. This was on the advice of Cane Creek where I got the headset from.
 
#1,444 ·
UPDATE: Thanks for the suggestions guys! I decided to try some other spacers and wallah, it's tight now. I still don't quite understand it but whatever, at least it's not the frame or something more serious.

With the suspension, it definitely sounds like it's coming from the upper portion of the shock. I tried re-tightening the upper bolt but it didn't help so it could be the shock itself. I tried descend and trail mode and different rebound settings but it still makes that noise.

So I finally got to ride it a bit at least. One thing I noticed is that there is a vibration in the middle gears when I accelerate. From the past, I remember this happening on a worn chain. So I guess the chain tension isn't right? Is there something I can do to adjust this?
 
#1,452 ·
Guys, how tight should the star nut bolt be tightened? I have it tightened real good, but I can still move the stem around, but there is no play when rockin` the bike back and forth. Is it supposed to be like this on Specialized bikes? On other bikes when its tightened its impossible to move the stem.
 
#1,456 ·
The star nut bolt DOES NOT hold the the stem in place on its own.

With the stem bolts snug but not torqued to spec, (you can still rotate the stem) the star nut bolt and cap are tightened to about 30-50 in/lbs. This puts clamping pressure on the stem which transfers that pressure to the head set bearings.

Make your final stem alignment with the wheel. Tighten the stem bolts to factory spec, usually about 55in/lbs. (Usually etched on the stem). USE A TORQUE WRENCH. Tighten them a little bit each time to bring them up to torque evenly.

The star nut and cap do 2 things; 1) puts clamping pressure on head set as described, and 2) acts as a safety cap to prevent the stem from pulling off.

If you tighten the star nut and cap so tight that you can't rotate the loose stem, you have tightened it too much and can pull out the star nut.
 
#1,453 ·
Are the bolts on the stem tightened all the way? You shouldn't over tighten the star nut bolt. It should be snugged, then tighten the stem bolts, then check the star nut bolt again, but not over tighten.

I've found it helps to cup your hand around the bottom of the headset where the fork meets to feel for any play. If there is no movement then you are fine.
 
#1,459 ·
Alright so here are my first impressions on my Enduro 29 with only some testing around my home (no trails yet).

I'm a little bit disappointed in the suspension - particularly the rear. I know Fox is generally garbage but compared to my Fox Evolution CTD (same type of shock) on my Giant Trance 27.5 (with 140mm travel), this suspension feels less plush, less supportive, and just a little worse in every way no matter how I adjust it (spent hours trying a wide range of pressure and rebound settings). Now that could simply be down to the FSR suspension compared to the Maestro but I feel like if I had a better shock, it could be tuned to be much better.

I would go with the BOS Kirk but they don't make it fit this bike so I have very limited options it seems. I hear the Monarch Plus DebonAir works well but I don't like the idea of not having much adjustment. I'd get the DBinline but I've heard some very questionable things about that too. The Ohlins would be pretty baller but I think it may be too heavy and expensive for my typical trail usage. What do you think Glen or anyone who has the Ohlins or Monarch DebonAir for this bike?

On the upside, the geometry does feel a lot more confident on this bike compared to my Trance. I think the longer front center is probably the biggest difference. The 29 inch wheels do make it feel bigger and heavier though. However, I noticed the suspension set up effected how tight turns felt so perhaps if I get that right, it'll feel more or less the same as the 27.5 in that regard. But I suspect the real benefits of the 29 inch wheels will show when I get out in the roots and stuff.

There are a lot of other annoyances with drivetrain vibrations and creaks that I'm still sorting out. And I actually just received the new SRAM Guide Ultimates so I'll be putting those on soon. I've never been a fan of Shimano brakes and these stock sets haven't exactly wowed me either.

As a side note, the stock saddle and grips were ridiculously uncomfortable to me so I had to swap those out quick. My bum and hands were hurting badly after only 15 minutes or so. :O
 
#1,461 ·
Alright so here are my first impressions on my Enduro 29 with only some testing around my home (no trails yet).

I'm a little bit disappointed in the suspension - particularly the rear. I know Fox is generally garbage but compared to my Fox Evolution CTD (same type of shock) on my Giant Trance 27.5 (with 140mm travel), this suspension feels less plush, less supportive, and just a little worse in every way no matter how I adjust it (spent hours trying a wide range of pressure and rebound settings). Now that could simply be down to the FSR suspension compared to the Maestro but I feel like if I had a better shock, it could be tuned to be much better.
Before dropping $$$ on a new shock, perhaps play with your setup a bit more (air pressure, etc.). It may also need to be broken in. Shocks come notoriously undersupplied with oil, so a service may help. From my experience, FSR on the E29 feels super-plush.

As a side note, the stock saddle and grips were ridiculously uncomfortable to me so I had to swap those out quick. My bum and hands were hurting badly after only 15 minutes or so. :O
I find the Henge saddle to be one of the most comfortable I've ever had. But they changed it a little from '14 to '15, I think.
 
#1,464 ·
Gap between headset dust cap and top of headtube

I am the owner of a 2010 S Works Enduro. Rather than getting a new bike, I bought a Pike 160 DPA 650b fork. I guess it will be a 26.b bike going forward - has anyone trademarked that yet? Anyway, while installing the new fork, I find I have a slight gap between the headset cap/seal, and the top of the headtube. This gap will not go away, as the compression ring interferes with the cap. When I think about it, I think the gap has been there since I bought the bike used, but it's annoying me now and I want to fix it. I've attached two photos showing the gap, and one with the cap removed. My questions are, is an IS headset bearing supposed to sit that high above the top of the head tube? It's a few mm above the top of the headtube. If that part is right, do I just need a shorter compression ring? Or a taller dust cap? I'm guessing maybe the prior owner replaced some of the headset, but didn't bother with a new cap. That, or it's a different bearing than was spec'd.

Open to suggestions...

Automotive tire Plastic bottle Synthetic rubber Leather Plastic
Metal Circle Still life photography Idiophone Synthetic rubber
 
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