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  1. #1001
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    yes, just dont use the spacer that sits above the lower headset bearing and you are good to go.
    Juice

  2. #1002
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    Thanks Der Juicen.

  3. #1003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tystik View Post
    Anybody have problems with stock headset?
    Yes. On (I think) 2010-21012 Enduros, somepeople have had the issue described in this post:
    Causes of Headset Galling?

    I had the same issue on a 2012 Enduro Expert Evo. The real problem is that slip-fit collar (not the actual headset) you have to put on the fork above the race - this is needed for any fork except for a Specialized fork, and that thing was causing insane creaking for me. I'd take everything out, clean it up and grease everything, put it back together, and by the end of the next ride it would be creaking like mad again. Actually so bad that Specialized waranteed it... and guess what, they did away with that design in 2013.

  4. #1004
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    A classic never gets old!

    Hi guys,

    im a first timer here...

    I leave here my ride (custom built one year ago)

    s-works Enduro 09

    a pic during a ride

    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-img_6957.jpg

    here a pic for show off.

    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-img_9094.jpg

    Great bike
    Love every ride, but needs a rear shock upgrade soon... (somewhere near this summer)
    Fox or Bos

  5. #1005
    Executive User - UK
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    Nice bike Fox and Bos are at complete opposite ends of the market.
    One is a master of marketing and makes an ok product. The French one makes great out of the box suspension and hasn't got a clue how to market their product. Fox can be made great, but needs expertise.

  6. #1006
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    Quote Originally Posted by vikingboy View Post
    Nice bike Fox and Bos are at complete opposite ends of the market.
    One is a master of marketing and makes an ok product. The French one makes great out of the box suspension and hasn't got a clue how to market their product. Fox can be made great, but needs expertise.
    Vikingboy, Thx for the output!
    i've already been advised by a friend to go with the Bos, and he even gets it tuned for me
    so my mind his 80% made.

  7. #1007
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    sounds like a good decision, especially if you have local servicing too.
    Welcome to MTBR too BTW

  8. #1008
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    Thx!
    Been following it for quite some time, but only now i decided to jump in!

    Great forums...

  9. #1009
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    Just placed my 2014 S-Works order this morning!!! Stoke!!!
    2014 Specialized Enduro S-Works
    2012 Specialized SJ FSR Elite
    2012 DB Scapegoat
    2012 Canfield Yelli Screamy 25.8lbs

  10. #1010
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    Hi, guys.
    This is my new 2014 S-WORKS. A month of operation. All stok, except grips. I'm excited about a dream come true. Now I do not know what to strive for


  11. #1011
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    ^ sweet bike!!!

    Know that feeling of a new Enduro! (and I miss it...)

    Congratulatiions on the new ride. It seems you already know you will enjoy it (a lot)!

    Cheers.

  12. #1012
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    Thank you. This is my fourth Spetsialized Enduro, S-WORKS first. I know what to expect from this
    Last edited by Serzh; 11-27-2013 at 05:00 AM.

  13. #1013
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    To owners of current 2012-2013-2014 Carbon Enduros:

    I have a 2013 Expert, it developed a super annoying creaking from the bottom bracket/crank-set (I think) area.
    Anyone else experience?

    Happens under applied power/climbing only. Lubed chain-ring bolts and nothing.
    Doesn't sound like bearings (bike is only 4 months old)
    Any ideas???

    Thanks!!!

  14. #1014
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    Quote Originally Posted by snow-man View Post
    To owners of current 2012-2013-2014 Carbon Enduros:

    I have a 2013 Expert, it developed a super annoying creaking from the bottom bracket/crank-set (I think) area.
    Anyone else experience?

    Happens under applied power/climbing only. Lubed chain-ring bolts and nothing.
    Doesn't sound like bearings (bike is only 4 months old)
    Any ideas???

    Thanks!!!
    Check that your shock bolt is tight and further try and see if the shock shifts side to side. Do this by just pulling and pushing the shock with good pressure side to side and you will hear it pop/creak. There was some sort of Manufact. defect causing it to loosen up (develop play) and creak like crazy under load. Mine got so bad and could not be tightened, they warrantied the frame. Just a thought.
    Tie two birds together and though they have four wings, they cannot fly!

  15. #1015
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    My frame finally came in.....time to start piecing it together.....=)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Specialized Enduro Thread-img_7301.jpg  

    2014 Specialized Enduro S-Works
    2012 Specialized SJ FSR Elite
    2012 DB Scapegoat
    2012 Canfield Yelli Screamy 25.8lbs

  16. #1016
    UNDEAD
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    Just arrived: my CCDBA CS for my 2013 Expert Enduro!
    Stoked
    Mounting hardware is set, now I just need to mount it to the bike. Anyone have any experience or tips with mounting/set-up before I proceed tonight?
    Thanks!
    2013 Specialized Enduro Expert
    Bronco D-handle square point Shovel

  17. #1017
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    25.86 lbs with xtr trail pedals and a fox 36. Last name is Buck, thus the custom matching red fork stickers.

    Size med sworks 2013 frame
    Fox Float 36 fork
    Roval Traverse wheels
    Conti Mountain King 2.4 front 2.2 rear protection
    Race Face Next SL 32t/KMC DLC chain
    10spd ZO (Old School) drivetrain
    2014 Reverb internally routed
    XTR brakes
    ENVE bars
    Lizard Skins DSP grips
    Chromag 40mm Ranger Stem with Ti bolts
    Syntace X12 axle


    IMG_6377 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6379 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6383 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6385 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6387 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6388 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6389 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6390 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6391 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr
    Have a nice ride!

  18. #1018
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoShirt View Post
    25.86 lbs with xtr trail pedals and a fox 36. Last name is Buck, thus the custom matching red fork stickers.

    Size med sworks 2013 frame
    Fox Float 36 fork
    Roval Traverse wheels
    Conti Mountain King 2.4 front 2.2 rear protection
    Race Face Next SL 32t/KMC DLC chain
    10spd ZO (Old School) drivetrain
    2014 Reverb internally routed
    XTR brakes
    ENVE bars
    Lizard Skins DSP grips
    Chromag 40mm Ranger Stem with Ti bolts
    Syntace X12 axle


    IMG_6377 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6379 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6383 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6385 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6387 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6388 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6389 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6390 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6391 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr
    Nice set up but how do you internally route your Reverb with 2013 frame?

  19. #1019
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    2013 Enduro

    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-image.jpgOfficial Specialized Enduro Thread-image.jpg

  20. #1020
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    VERY NICE ride!!

    Quote Originally Posted by NoShirt View Post
    25.86 lbs with xtr trail pedals and a fox 36. Last name is Buck, thus the custom matching red fork stickers.

    Size med sworks 2013 frame
    Fox Float 36 fork
    Roval Traverse wheels
    Conti Mountain King 2.4 front 2.2 rear protection
    Race Face Next SL 32t/KMC DLC chain
    10spd ZO (Old School) drivetrain
    2014 Reverb internally routed
    XTR brakes
    ENVE bars
    Lizard Skins DSP grips
    Chromag 40mm Ranger Stem with Ti bolts
    Syntace X12 axle


    IMG_6377 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6379 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6383 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6385 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6387 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6388 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6389 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6390 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr

    IMG_6391 by The Buck's Adventures, on Flickr
    Ride like you stole it!

    2015 Camber Carbon Expert EVO
    2014 Camber Comp

  21. #1021
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    Okay, how to route that Reverb. Yes, it's the greatest thing ever!

    It's not too tough really. 2014 reverb stealth comes with a nifty little hose coupler piece that you thread into 2 pieces of hose that's key. (I actually didn't even use it, lost it, so I took a few inches of brake cable, doused it in super glue and used it to couple the 2 pieces of hose that I'll refer to later).

    First, take a nut (maybe a 1/2 incher) on a string, drop it down the seat tube, then turn the frame to get it up the downtube, up the headtube, then down the top tube, then out the existing hole above the shock, now using that string, from the seat tube, duct tape or otherwise attach it to clean end of the seat post hose. Pull the hose all the way through the frame (as the string was).

    So, now you can insert the post into the seat tube just a bit maybe an inch or two (don't insert it all the way, you'll need some extra hose for now), clamp it enough so it's not moving around, but don't tighten. If you need some hose to work with for later in the install for any reason, you can insert more post to get you a little more slack, but be sure to put your post where you need it to be for when you trim hose later.

    So now you've got the post on the bike and the only hose is sticking out the hole from the top tube above the shock. Leave it hanging there.

    Now, I'm sure there are a million ways to do this, but you'll need to open up the routing hole in the top tube (near the headtube) just a little bit. It's currently big enough to run shifter housing through it but not quite brake hose. I used some sandpaper i super glued around a spoke. Takes about 5 minutes of sanding, check and check again. You want it just big enough. Once big enough, take a piece of spare brake hose (just long enough to get from the hole you just opened up to the other hole you have the reverb hose hanging out of). Run that length of hose so that you've got maybe a foot of both hoses hanging out of the hole. Use the coupler piece to connect them.

    Now, you'll use the spare hose you've run through to pull the reverb hose. Basically the reverb hose is doing a 180 at this point (yes, the hose can handle it since the top tube is so damn wide). Pull that bad boy back through the guide hole you've been sanding out and there you go. Pull extra cable and put the seatpost where you need it to be. I would suggest you keep at least an extra few inches of hose in the frame, better to not be short.

    From there, you can shorten the reverb hose at the lever end as needed, bleed the hose (it's really pretty simple to do. mine was first try no problem). There you go, good to go! I had stressed about doing it, but after thinking it all through, it's simple. A half hour job (would have been quicker with a dremel).

    One question will be (is the hose long enough?) I have a medium frame and I ended up trimming off about 8 inches of hose, so I would say yes for anything up to a size large frame. To make it work on an XL frame, you might have to slam the seat post all the way into the frame for the install part, then adjust that at the end.

    Maybe 80-100 rides into it and the post still working just fine.

    The End
    Have a nice ride!

  22. #1022
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    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-15122013703.jpg
    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-15122013690.jpg
    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-15122013689.jpg
    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-15122013702.jpg

  23. #1023
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoShirt View Post
    Okay, how to route that Reverb. Yes, it's the greatest thing ever!

    It's not too tough really. 2014 reverb stealth comes with a nifty little hose coupler piece that you thread into 2 pieces of hose that's key. (I actually didn't even use it, lost it, so I took a few inches of brake cable, doused it in super glue and used it to couple the 2 pieces of hose that I'll refer to later).

    First, take a nut (maybe a 1/2 incher) on a string, drop it down the seat tube, then turn the frame to get it up the downtube, up the headtube, then down the top tube, then out the existing hole above the shock, now using that string, from the seat tube, duct tape or otherwise attach it to clean end of the seat post hose. Pull the hose all the way through the frame (as the string was).

    So, now you can insert the post into the seat tube just a bit maybe an inch or two (don't insert it all the way, you'll need some extra hose for now), clamp it enough so it's not moving around, but don't tighten. If you need some hose to work with for later in the install for any reason, you can insert more post to get you a little more slack, but be sure to put your post where you need it to be for when you trim hose later.

    So now you've got the post on the bike and the only hose is sticking out the hole from the top tube above the shock. Leave it hanging there.

    Now, I'm sure there are a million ways to do this, but you'll need to open up the routing hole in the top tube (near the headtube) just a little bit. It's currently big enough to run shifter housing through it but not quite brake hose. I used some sandpaper i super glued around a spoke. Takes about 5 minutes of sanding, check and check again. You want it just big enough. Once big enough, take a piece of spare brake hose (just long enough to get from the hole you just opened up to the other hole you have the reverb hose hanging out of). Run that length of hose so that you've got maybe a foot of both hoses hanging out of the hole. Use the coupler piece to connect them.

    Now, you'll use the spare hose you've run through to pull the reverb hose. Basically the reverb hose is doing a 180 at this point (yes, the hose can handle it since the top tube is so damn wide). Pull that bad boy back through the guide hole you've been sanding out and there you go. Pull extra cable and put the seatpost where you need it to be. I would suggest you keep at least an extra few inches of hose in the frame, better to not be short.

    From there, you can shorten the reverb hose at the lever end as needed, bleed the hose (it's really pretty simple to do. mine was first try no problem). There you go, good to go! I had stressed about doing it, but after thinking it all through, it's simple. A half hour job (would have been quicker with a dremel).

    One question will be (is the hose long enough?) I have a medium frame and I ended up trimming off about 8 inches of hose, so I would say yes for anything up to a size large frame. To make it work on an XL frame, you might have to slam the seat post all the way into the frame for the install part, then adjust that at the end.

    Maybe 80-100 rides into it and the post still working just fine.

    The End
    Wow! Thanks for the detailed instruction. So are the top tube and the down tube connected directly, or does it connect through head tube. I always thought the head tube is sealed.

    Cheers
    Nawa

  24. #1024
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    Nice Ride!

    How did you get the weight down so low? I was in the shop the other day and weighed an S-Works Enduro with the XX1 drivetrain, lighter Pike Fork and no pedals, it came in at 27 lbs. What's the secret?

  25. #1025
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    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-photo-18-.jpg
    my trusty sled always waiting for happy hour after work.
    always face the herd

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