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  1. #1551
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    It looks clean for sure but still your cables go under the BB so I really don't see the point of this modification considering the risk involved and also the fact that you have voided your warranty.

  2. #1552
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    It looks clean for sure but still your cables go under the BB so I really don't see the point of this modification considering the risk involved and also the fact that you have voided your warranty.
    Notice on the built up finished bike, there is a custom carbon taco/bash guard which extends just forward of the cable exit holes.

    I did design an exit on the top of the BB so as to direct the cables straight to the chain stays. No cable growth or pulling at the chain stay pivots. Very easy to execute on the non-drive side - a direct shot. Challenging on the drive side as the shape of the BB area would cause the cable housing to fit too tightly in the limited space and cause cable rub and stress. Wouldn't work with the chain stay cable routing via the chain stay protector.

    Warranty? Greater risk of smashing your frame in a crash than needing to warrant the frame from a defect. Calculated risk on my part.
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  3. #1553
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    Actually my 14 E26 already has a hole in the top tube on the drive side. Is it for a front derailleur? I think it exits under the top tube just in front of the seat tube.

  4. #1554
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard25 View Post
    Actually my 14 E26 already has a hole in the top tube on the drive side. Is it for a front derailleur? I think it exits under the top tube just in front of the seat tube.
    No, this is for partial internal routing for an external routed dropper post. The aluminum E29's have this.
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6 lb
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  5. #1555
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    The little plastic mold was pulled into the downtube via the cables, and held tightly in place while adhesive was injected into the exit holes. The plastic mold allowed the adhesive to form properly around the holes.

    The top holes were easily accessed through the HT.




    Thank you. You are correct and a much simpler solution. My execution was over kill, but I can sleep better at night after drilling 5 holes into my carbon frame.

    But the other issue is proper cable alignment and being held in place by the friction of the added entrance and exit "tunnel". Otherwise, the cable flops around at the holes and tends to migrate in and out, shifting up and down in the downtube. They tend to migrate up and therefore shorten under the BB stressing the cables as the suspension travels. The angle and diameter of the hole at the exit causes the housing to bend ever so slightly therefore locking it into place.

    2 Whistler Bike Park days and 3 AM trail rides and no cable migration.
    Makes sense. If you do get any migration in the future a trick that works is heat shrink around the hose/cable at the entry/exit of the ports. Obviously you have to thread the cables through again to install the heat shrink which is a pain.

  6. #1556
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    Can any of you guys help me out. I am about to buy a 2015 enduro expert and I am very keen to swap out the cc inline with a ccdb air cs. Have any of you done this? Is it possible?

  7. #1557
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    If you get the specific Enduro model it is possible.

  8. #1558
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    Get the Monarch Plus.

  9. #1559
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    I picked up an Inline for 100 bucks. Still tuning it in, but I hope its better than the fox. As of now, it wallows too much at the recommended sag, and I cant seem to get the right balance of plush and liveliness. When its set up to soak up hits, it wont jump for shite.

  10. #1560
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    Did you go to the Cane Creek site for tuning specs? My '15 Expert came with that tune and works very well. I can pop anything and soaks up hits without issue.

  11. #1561
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    I used the exact tune spec that the website listed. It was totally bad. Slow high speed rebound, way too soft deep in the stroke.

    I like to be able to go fast through rough stuff, and maintain traction, but at the same time, if I need, slam my feet into the suspension to air over things. So far, the Fox that was stock behaved better, even though it would be hot at the end of a long run.

  12. #1562
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    Ill check the volume spacers when I get home.

    Can I add more fluid in the absence of volume.spacers? I dont have any laying about.

  13. #1563
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    Theoretically you could use oil to take up volume, but you want air to flow freely through the small ports that equalize the outer air can.. I'd stick to rubber/vinyl bands


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  14. #1564
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    Ok. Thanks

    I saw the bands online, the appear to be offered in one size. I saw the tuning sheet say there are large and small bands. Any insight?

  15. #1565
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    The "large" bands are made up of 5 "small" bands. The small bands are just cut (by hand evidently and sometimes very poorly) up large bands.


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  16. #1566
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    I'm looking for some insight as to why so many people are selling off their cane creek double barrels. From what I have heard reliability seems to be the only concern but I haven't heard a lot of bad feed back on the double barrel. I built up a enduro comp and am planning on getting rid of the fox ctd soon, which I think is much better on this bike then any other bike I have ridden. I have been riding it for awhile now and all I can think is if this fox feels as good as it does, what would a real shock feel like?

  17. #1567
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    hobdog31, many people seem to like the performance of the CC DB-inline. I do. There's a lot of internet buzz saying they are unreliable. And this shock isn't user serviceable nor are most LBS authorized to service it.

  18. #1568
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    There are failures. It may be a inherent, or a batch issue. No one seems to know. My LBS had 2 out of 5 get warrantied. However, those may have been from the same bad run.

  19. #1569
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    From my observations, CC failures are more common than not. Two of the three guys I ride with that have the CC double barrel on their Sworks Enduros have failed. One failed on an out of town trip to Oakridge, he got it back from CC then we did the McKenzie and it failed again. He swapped it out for a Monarch and couldn't be happier. The other guy has had to send the shock back to CC three times in the past two years for repair. The third guy has the Inline on his Enduro comp sense spring with no issues..... Yet. From my observations (2 out of 3) have had problems... Not a good track record.

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  20. #1570
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    That's what I expected that it was a reliability issue. It seems like a very complex shock which is great for tuning but seems like that leaves the more opportunity for failure. Putting reliability aside, are the ccdb users getting what they are looking for as far as ride quality goes?

  21. #1571
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    All three of them absolutely love the performance and tunability of the shock when it is working. The one buddy that switched to the Monarch likes it better, he did say the CC has a better climb mode but likes to Monarch better overall and can work on it himself.

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  22. #1572
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    Or go coil.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Specialized Enduro Thread-ohlins.jpg  

    Last edited by Mudguard; 08-14-2015 at 03:35 AM.

  23. #1573
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    I loved my canecreek db cs well until couple days ago and it failed. I just ordered a monarch plus Debon air to replace it. It's too bad the adjustability is amazing on the double barrel and it's not hard once it clicks in the head. That is probably the biggest killer is the maintenance side ya probably no problem for pros who get service after every ride but having to send it off to service centers is a bit much. Everything has its pluses and minuses I suppose.
    Look forward to another monarch as I put one on my stumpy Evo and it was amazing, imagine it will be same feeling on the enduro

  24. #1574
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    That's to bad. It seems it's a reoccurring theme. I guess you would have to have a back up shock for possible failures and down time for Maintenence periods when it has to be sent off. I wish there were more used coil shocks that worked on this bike because I would probably find what I'm looking for on the downhills with a coil, and I never use my climb switch when climbing so the only draw back would be weight.

  25. #1575
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    I've had my Enduro Elite for a week and.... the CCDB inline has already crapped out. It actually gave up on my fourth ride. Specialized has warrantied the shock but its still a pain the arse. I tried to get the new Ohlin air shock but they werent available yet through specialized. One nice thing is that my rep said if this next one gives up they'll replace it with a Monarch+.

  26. #1576
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    Quote Originally Posted by hobdog31 View Post
    TI wish there were more used coil shocks that worked on this bike because I would probably find what I'm looking for on the downhills with a coil, and I never use my climb switch when climbing so the only draw back would be weight.
    I went through the same thing, CTD, Monarch Plus and then tried to work out coil options.
    Ohlins TTX and Van RC I think are the only options. No word on the DH2X yet.

    Made my choice, but it's taken me 6 months.
    Ohlins Weight by Chazz Michael Michaels, on Flickr

  27. #1577
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    My old Enduro comp


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  28. #1578
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    Unbuilt my E29 Exp Carbon (Med) to do a full cleaning, inspection, and more in-depth tune-up. Figured I'd throw it on the scale for a camera pose:



    2790g, 6.15 lbs with what you see on it. Cable guides, the forward shock bolt, bottle bolts, axle, seat binder clamp, and a Wheels Mfg PF30 BB. The swingarm bearings are still smooth with little to no drag, though the shock yoke's bearings seem to have a bit more resistance than the rest. Effortless to lift the swingarm--I bet I could lift it with a rubber band without it bouncing, nor stretching much, it's so smooth and light feeling.

  29. #1579
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  30. #1580
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    So what you guys who have ridden both think? Keep the CCDB cs or swap it out for the monarch plus debonair, this is on carbon 26er 2014 enduro. I love the cane creek and swap out for one ride then put back the cane creek back on. Wondering what fellow riders experiences are.
    Currently live in Colorado but moving to Germany next week. Hope to get some Verbier in before winter and deployment lol


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  31. #1581
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    I ride same bike, also Colorado, I think the CC is pretty sweet. I think after getting it dialed it cant be beat, unless it breaks. The Monarch is an equally nice shock.though, I loved it on bikes I have demoed

  32. #1582
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    Question FastBanana, does your cc make a oil squishy/sucking noise on compression? It's always done that since I've had it and fictions properly from what I can tell. Other than the bezel ring coming loose and I had to replace a seal. Just wondering if the noise is normal.

  33. #1583
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    Yes, mine does. i feel its normal, some forks do it too. Just depends on how the valves are built. Rock Shox did it a lot, before the Charger dampner. I only hear it in the parking lot, on the trail, everything else is much too loud to hear any noise the bike makes.

  34. #1584
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    Cool same here thanks for the reply happy trails


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  35. #1585
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    I warrantied my Inline twice before going debonair.. Which after only a month is also having issues with holding pressure and the compression circuit.. I just can't win!!
    The enduro's high leverage ratio apparently just eats up shocks..


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  36. #1586
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    I'm looking for some thoughts about this bike.
    I built up a enduro comp xl frame this spring. The build is
    160 solo pike
    Stock fox shock
    Raceface atlas 800mm bars
    Easton haven 50mm stem
    Wtb i23 rims w/x9 hubs
    Maxxis minion DHF 2.5 front
    Maxxis minion DHR 2 rear
    I love many things about this bike. It smashes the rough stuff well. It feels very composed off of jumps.
    My issue with the bike is how it corners. Two of the areas I ride offer are mountain bike specific trails with lots of high banked turns that are fairly tight. They are still flow type trails but just a bit tight feeling for my bike. I chalked it up to technique and have continued to work on it.
    Recently I rode my friends kona process 111, which I had ridden before( I liked it the first time I rode it, and it actually made me go back to a 29er bikes). I was blown away at how the bike railed the corners that I had been struggling with on my enduro.
    Has any one found this with their bike and have found a sweet spot with sag setup or any other setups? I ordered the 650b yoke to help drop the bottom bracket but if is back ordered.

  37. #1587
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    I don't get it. It must truly be a new front triangle, the front end is slacked out to 65.5 but has about the same seat angle. But then they still put a less than 24" top tube on the large? Doesn't make any sense...

    There new mid fat Fuse hardtail has a 24" top tube on the MEDIUM... But the Enduro, a bike that should be purpose built for an event called ENDURO is only 24" on the LARGE...??? WTH

    The Stealth black S-works model kicks butt though! But 8900 is out of my league!
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    Everytime you ride in mud, god kills a kitten.

  38. #1588
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard25 View Post
    I went through the same thing, CTD, Monarch Plus and then tried to work out coil options.
    Ohlins TTX and Van RC I think are the only options. No word on the DH2X yet.

    Made my choice, but it's taken me 6 months.
    Ohlins Weight by Chazz Michael Michaels, on Flickr
    Is that for an E29? Curious what the stroke is on that (what are the numbers on the spring?). I have one on my Enduro Evo (I'd assume the shock is a bit larger for this bike), and I love it. The thing basically has a climb switch since you can just reach down and crank the LSC knob on the fly. I dial it all the way in for fire road climbing, back it out 4 clicks for trail, back it out 4 more clicks for DH. Works great and the different settings are quite noticeable.

    I recently got a Ti spring for it and dropped over half a pound!


  39. #1589
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    For both '15 Enduro 29 and 650B versions, the rear shock size is 216x57mm (8.5x2.25in).
    The yoke is different to accommodate 10mm more travel on the 27.5 Enduro.

  40. #1590
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    Quote Originally Posted by hobdog31 View Post
    I'm looking for some thoughts about this bike.
    I built up a enduro comp xl frame this spring. The build is
    160 solo pike
    Stock fox shock
    Raceface atlas 800mm bars
    Easton haven 50mm stem
    Wtb i23 rims w/x9 hubs
    Maxxis minion DHF 2.5 front
    Maxxis minion DHR 2 rear
    I love many things about this bike. It smashes the rough stuff well. It feels very composed off of jumps.
    My issue with the bike is how it corners. Two of the areas I ride offer are mountain bike specific trails with lots of high banked turns that are fairly tight. They are still flow type trails but just a bit tight feeling for my bike. I chalked it up to technique and have continued to work on it.
    Recently I rode my friends kona process 111, which I had ridden before( I liked it the first time I rode it, and it actually made me go back to a 29er bikes). I was blown away at how the bike railed the corners that I had been struggling with on my enduro.
    Has any one found this with their bike and have found a sweet spot with sag setup or any other setups? I ordered the 650b yoke to help drop the bottom bracket but if is back ordered.
    are you talkin about lack of grip and/or wallow in the midstroke of the shock? the fox is notorious for crappy midstroke on the enduro. i switched the one i had out to a monarch plus and it transformed the bike. it has always needed help in that area. high speed corners with or without chatter the back end needed help to stay up more

  41. #1591
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    Yep the base Fox is junk.

  42. #1592
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    Is that for an E29? Curious what the stroke is on that (what are the numbers on the spring?). I have one on my Enduro Evo (I'd assume the shock is a bit larger for this bike), and I love it.
    Mine is for an E26. So it is 216x63mm. Which is actually for the Evo Model. I was sent the wrong one.
    For reference these are the part no's.
    Demo MY11-15 98914-8010
    Enduro Evo MY14-15 98914-8110 216x63
    E26/650B/29 MY13-15 98914-8120 216x57

    So I'm getting around 180mm rear wheel travel. But since I don't bottom it as easily as the 63mm Monarch Plus I had, I don't find it an issue. I am having a spacer made up to clip onto the shaft.

    As for the spring weight, mine 503g, so if you could post the weight of your Ti one that would be cool. I was looking at the Yellow Ti Springs one, but it's expensive, and it doesn't actually state the weight! So I don't know about spending 200 pounds for 100g.
    I also probably need a slightly heavier spring as I used the 57mm stroke (the correct stroke for my bike E26) and chose 457lb, however for the 63mm stroke and my weight I could use the 480lb. But like I said, I'm not bottoming it easily which is refreshing.
    My problem with the Monarch (and air shocks in general) was running it softly for small bumps, then blowing through it. More PSI and I'd wind up using 75% of the travel max.
    Last edited by Mudguard; 08-26-2015 at 04:44 PM.

  43. #1593
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    Interesting that that shock works unmodified on your E26! You don't have clearance issues at full compression? Or is that why you're adding that clip on the shaft?

    I was running a 480 Ohlins spring previously. It comes in at about 550g. The Ti spring I got from here:
    LITE- SPRING

    I met the guy who runs that shop at Sea Otter, and he gave me a super deal. Only problem is he's kinda hard to get ahold of. So my spring took a long time to get, and I had a sizing issue which I've been trying to get resolved, but haven't heard back in a while... so YMMV.

    Anyway, that spring is Beta-C Ti, so supposedly lighter than normal Ti. I was able to send the exact specs (length, ID, OD, rate). (And I got it with a black finish... sorry but the Ohlins yellow doesn't do it for me! ) It has a slightly narrower OD than the Ohlins spring, which is great since the Ohlins spring was rubbing on the dropper seatpost cable (my frame is a 2013 so before they had the full internal dropper post routing, the cable comes out right above the shock in the top tube). Got it made with a 475 rate. I can't find the exact weights right now, but I know it was just over 1/2 pound lighter than the Ohlins spring. A regular (non Beta-C) Ti spring might not drop as much weight. There will also probably be other options soon, with many companies offering lighter steel springs like the new Fox ones.

    I can't take the spring off to check the weight because it's a pain in the ass to get the spring back on. One of the issues that I had was that the free length was 10mm longer than I requested, which makes it impossible to get on the shock without pre-compressing it first. I figured out a hack way to do that - put it on my old CCDB, which I can barely get it onto, mount that on the bike and sit on it, then zip-tie the compressed spring with a few heavy-duty zip ties. Then I can fit the compressed spring onto the Ohlins and get the spring clip in place. It works, but I hope I don't need to take the spring off very often!

  44. #1594
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    Anyone with a CCBD Inline, is it me, or is the adjustments counter intuitive?

    For example, HSR. I would think that minus is slower and plus is faster. However, it seems that plus is more dampened (slower) and minus is less dampened (faster).

    The other setting seem the same way, IE plus is greater dampening and minus is less dampening.

    Or do I have one the the recalled mislabelled shocks?

  45. #1595
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    Quote Originally Posted by 53119 View Post
    are you talkin about lack of grip and/or wallow in the midstroke of the shock? the fox is notorious for crappy midstroke on the enduro. i switched the one i had out to a monarch plus and it transformed the bike. it has always needed help in that area. high speed corners with or without chatter the back end needed help to stay up more
    I wouldn't say it's a lack of grip situation as much as a front end seems to want to push up the berm instead of carving the corner on a tight line. I would agree about the rear shock, I have been on the look out for one but recently stopped looking after riding my buddies bike and questioning if I should keep my bike. Perhaps a rear shock would help this issue.
    Last edited by hobdog31; 08-28-2015 at 12:55 PM. Reason: Wrong word

  46. #1596
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    I just picked up my 2016 Enduro Elite! One of the first 2016s in Sweden I imagine - they only arrived to Specialized's EU distribution centre a week or so ago.

    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-img_8146.jpg

    Just got to finish off the tubeless conversion and mount my stuff on it and I can go get it dirty!

    I dunno how long Specialized have been using this new rim strip (it's the full width of the inside of the rim and says "2Bliss" on it), but this is the easiest tubeless conversion I've ever done - tube out, Stan's in, shake it all around and it looks like I'm good to go.

  47. #1597
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    So I got some trail time in on my new Enduro 29. The 29 inch wheels definitely help a lot getting over roots. I was able to climb over things that were pretty much impossible for me to keep going over before. I actually went all out and got a Schwalbe Magic Mary front and Rock Razor rear with the new Procore tube system. One thing that worries me about the Procore is that I seem to be losing air from the front inner tube. I'm hoping this is just due to a part of the valve that I can seal up by putting some sealant or something around it. The Magic Mary does seem to be pretty good. It was muddy in some sections and I almost washed out in one spot but it gave me enough warning to bring it back which I'm not sure other tires would have done. The Rock Razor on the other hand was slipping about but nothing too bad I guess.

    The geometry is also an improvement over my old bike. Feels more stable. I put some 780mm bars on it which I found myself smacking the outsides of my hands on branches and things that I had never done before. So I guess I do need to be a little more aware of the wider bars on more narrow trails like that. Ground clearance also seems improved over my last bike.

    The one disappointment was the suspension performance. Particularly the rear. I got the Monarch Plus Debonair and took all the air volume spacers out and even brought the sag down to 40% with slower rebound and fully open compression but it still felt too bouncy to me. If I went any slower on the rebound it would sit too low and hardly move at all. Maybe I'll have to look into getting the Ohlins after all... The Pike was much better after I took out all the tokens that were in there but still not perfect. It too felt a little too bouncy at 30% sag with slower rebound but not as bad as the rear.

  48. #1598
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    Interesting that that shock works unmodified on your E26! You don't have clearance issues at full compression? Or is that why you're adding that clip on the shaft?

    I can't take the spring off to check the weight because it's a pain in the ass to get the spring back on. One of the issues that I had was that the free length was 10mm longer than I requested, which makes it impossible to get on the shock without pre-compressing it first. I figured out a hack way to do that - put it on my old CCDB, which I can barely get it onto, mount that on the bike and sit on it, then zip-tie the compressed spring with a few heavy-duty zip ties. Then I can fit the compressed spring onto the Ohlins and get the spring clip in place. It works, but I hope I don't need to take the spring off very often!
    Clearance is fine, I checked before I put the spring on. Yeah taking them off is annoying. If you get bored maybe just measure the whole lot? We've got the same shock so it would be interesting to see how much under the 975g the Ti spring brings it.
    The longer length of your spring would be annoying. You're essentially running a whole lot of preload? How much sag do you get and is there any chance the coils could bind?
    I don't actually know what frame differences are between the E26 Comp and Evo.

  49. #1599
    JCL
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    Bizarre suspension issues. I suggest either run the compression setting in the mid position or get a H compression tune for the shock.

  50. #1600
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    Regarding the after market Monarch Plus Debonair I have asked Sram and they told be that it is specifically tuned for the E29 with all the volume reducers etc so by removing them most probably you are ruining its tune.

    Having said that I run both my Pike and Monarch quite stiff with slow rebound and it is great.

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