• 07-26-2015
    gpgalanis
    Yes but none of them use proprietary shocks and yokes.

    PS. What is the max rear rotor size that I can use in my E29 2015? Can I use 200mm?
  • 07-26-2015
    JCL
    They would if they could. You've gotta carry some serious industry weight for SRAM or Fox to produce proprietary shocks for you. Trek shock shafts are also proprietary.

    Yes 200mm is okay. I run the same.
  • 07-27-2015
    stiingya
    When the German Spec site had the the 2016 enduro up there was an article on a French mountain bike website on it. Says it's getting a new dedicated 27.5 front triangle this year with a longer TT. I got all excited because the pictures they put up have shorter stems, and they look longer and slacker.

    BUT, then I double checked the geometry chart. It's in French and a jpeg and so you can't copy paste/translate. But comparing it back and forth it looks like the changes are very minor. Just a few millimeters difference. Bummer!


    Exclusif : Le Specialized Enduro 2016 est là ! | Bike Magazine, l?actualité du VTT : Enduro, All Mountain et Downhill
  • 07-27-2015
    stiingya
    For the 1=3%? stiffness increase it brings for the dedicated Yoke is not worth the Pain in the @$$ it is to be stuck with a shock. There may be choices right now for the 2014/15 frames. But for my 2011 frame there is nothing available anymore. And I spent a LOT of time last year looking! They made EVO kits for them for awhile, PUSH made Monarchs for them for awhile, but now I'm $#!+ out of luck!

    with mountain bikes costing as much as they do a lot of people need to keep them long enough to make it cost effective. And being stuck with an old shock sucks!!!
  • 07-27-2015
    Mudguard
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by stiingya View Post
    But for my 2011 frame there is nothing available anymore. And I spent a LOT of time last year looking! They made EVO kits for them for awhile, PUSH made Monarchs for them for awhile, but now I'm $#!+ out of luck!

    I just bought one of these. Took about two weeks to get from Germany to New Zealand. You will probably have to modify the eyelet slightly as there is a groove in the yoke. But it's not major.
    Specialized Extension für EVO-Umbau (Bj. 2010-2012)
  • 07-27-2015
    stiingya
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Mudguard25 View Post
    I just bought one of these. Took about two weeks to get from Germany to New Zealand. You will probably have to modify the eyelet slightly as there is a groove in the yoke. But it's not major.
    Specialized Extension für EVO-Umbau (Bj. 2010-2012)

    Thanks!

    WOW, can't believe somebody has them to buy still. Looked overseas before and never got a hit, checked with the dealer last winter and no go, used to find them on PB now and then. For awhile I looked at buying a used EVO to swap out the part! Even somebody was going to look at manufacturing a replacement but it fell through.

    anyway, what shock are you going to use? Coil with a spacer? Or are you brave enough to open up and mod an air can? I understand they didn't just use proprietary clevis mount, they also used a proprietary shock length... Got to love it! :)

    Thanks again...
  • 07-28-2015
    Mudguard
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by stiingya View Post
    anyway, what shock are you going to use? Coil with a spacer? Or are you brave enough to open up and mod an air can?

    The linkage is way smaller than the 14 onwards bikes. So I have a paperweight, that I've sent to Dougal with other shocks to faff around with. I got all excited when I realised that the 13 Enduro Evo's used a Van RC with a normal eyelet. I didn't stop to think that they may have changed other things, like the seatstay bolts which are much larger on my bike.

  • 07-28-2015
    stiingya
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Mudguard25 View Post
    The linkage is way smaller than the 14 onwards bikes. So I have a paperweight, that I've sent to Dougal with other shocks to faff around with. I got all excited when I realised that the 13 Enduro Evo's used a Van RC with a normal eyelet. I didn't stop to think that they may have changed other things, like the seatstay bolts which are much larger on my bike.


    I'm sorry to hear that, but yea they sure made some significant changes between those model years. That's why I didn't think I had any options anymore.

    Though I got to say that this brings home the point of how proprietary parts can be such a pain! Also makes me question the idea of putting any more money into my frame at this point anyway. It's one of those soon to be extinct 26" bikes! :)

    Big S makes some amazing bikes. But not sure if i want to risk being in this position again in 4 or 5 years...
  • 07-28-2015
    JCL
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by stiingya View Post
    I'm sorry to hear that, but yea they sure made some significant changes between those model years. That's why I didn't think I had any options anymore.

    Though I got to say that this brings home the point of how proprietary parts can be such a pain! Also makes me question the idea of putting any more money into my frame at this point anyway. It's one of those soon to be extinct 26" bikes! :)

    Big S makes some amazing bikes. But not sure if i want to risk being in this position again in 4 or 5 years...

    Sell your bike every three years?
  • 07-28-2015
    stiingya
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by JCL View Post
    Sell your bike every three years?

    Is that how you keep current?

    Definitely an option. seems like u need to keep it longer to make it worth the cost. Or trade it off quicker and cut your losses I guess?

    It seemed like push only made the monarchs for my frame for a brief period, not 3 years. Though for sure a lot more choices with the current frame. so hopefully the period where replacement shocks are available wont be so brief this time.

    On the other hand not like long and slack HL bikes are hard to come by anymore... tough choices.
  • 07-29-2015
    redo7
    1mm drop for the BB for the 2016 E27.5 version...
  • 07-29-2015
    JCL
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by stiingya View Post
    Is that how you keep current?

    Definitely an option. seems like u need to keep it longer to make it worth the cost. Or trade it off quicker and cut your losses I guess?

    It seemed like push only made the monarchs for my frame for a brief period, not 3 years. Though for sure a lot more choices with the current frame. so hopefully the period where replacement shocks are available wont be so brief this time.

    On the other hand not like long and slack HL bikes are hard to come by anymore... tough choices.

    Three years is the max I think you can wait to get decent resale as the tech/marketing moves so fast.

    That said I'm probably going to keep my Camber Evo for longer considering the new Camber is heavier and has a Brain etc.
  • 07-30-2015
    vokeswaagin
    Best way to stay current is get a new bike every year!
    (The perks of working at a shop)
    ;)


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  • 07-30-2015
    Vanguard
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by JCL View Post
    Sell your bike every three years?

    Yes, that's what the industry wants us to do. That's the only reason why we got "new standards" (such as 650B and Boost).

    Adding the occasional upgrade on a bike you ride for 10+ years is much smarter, economically, and much more sustainable, ecologically.

    Except, well, when you don't get parts anymore, because the parts are all "new standard" now.
  • 08-03-2015
    Seven1three
    Just a heads up for the guys looking for bikes - my dealer just got me a 2015 EE29 for 3600. Evidently Specialized has lowered the price on the 15s to make way for the 16s. I went in to order a new Pike and left ordering a new bike. Stoked!

    I would assume you can probably do better than 36 at the right shop...
  • 08-03-2015
    rondre3000
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Seven1three View Post
    Just a heads up for the guys looking for bikes - my dealer just got me a 2015 EE29 for 3600. Evidently Specialized has lowered the price on the 15s to make way for the 16s. I went in to order a new Pike and left ordering a new bike. Stoked!

    I would assume you can probably do better than 36 at the right shop...

    You neglected to specify which model you got.


    -Ron
  • 08-03-2015
    tp806
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Seven1three View Post
    Just a heads up for the guys looking for bikes - my dealer just got me a 2015 EE29 for 3600. Evidently Specialized has lowered the price on the 15s to make way for the 16s. I went in to order a new Pike and left ordering a new bike. Stoked!

    I would assume you can probably do better than 36 at the right shop...

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    You neglected to specify which model you got.


    -Ron

    I think he does say it Ron, Enduro Elite 29er, for $3.6K... ;)
  • 08-03-2015
    Seven1three
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tp806 View Post
    I think he does say it Ron, Enduro Elite 29er, for $3.6K... ;)

    That is correct :thumbsup:
  • 08-03-2015
    rondre3000
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tp806 View Post
    I think he does say it Ron, Enduro Elite 29er, for $3.6K... ;)


    Ahhhh, EE29 = Enduro Elite? Not Enduro EXPERT? ;)
  • 08-03-2015
    tp806
    Well he didn't say carbon and the only alu expert is the more freeridy EVO model, which is not a 29er. Or he could have said EEE27.5 ;):p
  • 08-04-2015
    tcianca
    I replaed my 3rd broken Inline with a DB CS and the bike feels much better now and I'm sure more reliable.

    Just one question for DB CS owners: what is the correct sag for it ?
    The enclosed base tune paper recommends 15mm while the web page 17mm.

    Ciao
  • 08-04-2015
    gpgalanis
    I am also interested in the rear shock sag and whether you measure it in the attack position or seated.
  • 08-04-2015
    Mudguard
    How many Enduro owners have measured the actual rear wheel travel?
  • 08-07-2015
    tp806
    6 Attachment(s)
    The eagle has landed... beginning of a new 650b era
    Just picked up this custom beauty today. Had to take the day off to break her in...

    Attachment 1006875

    Attachment 1006876

    Attachment 1006873

    Attachment 1006874

    Attachment 1006877

    Attachment 1006878
  • 08-07-2015
    gpgalanis
    Great bike! Looks even better in reality.
  • 08-07-2015
    Jamie_MTB
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tp806 View Post
    Just picked up this custom beauty today. Had to take the day off to break her in...

    Attachment 1006878

    Why not route it underneath?
  • 08-07-2015
    tp806
    IMHO, hydraulic line under the BB is way too exposed to rocks, sticks and other debris.
    Looks cleaner and more efficient/elegant like this... ;-)
  • 08-07-2015
    Jamie_MTB
    Elegant isn't a word i would use for it.

    Enjoy
  • 08-07-2015
    gpgalanis
    I am with tp806 on this. It just feels safer this way.
  • 08-07-2015
    tp806
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Jamie_MTB View Post
    Elegant isn't a word i would use for it.

    Enjoy

    Yes you're probably right, more safer looking I would say and agrees with my OCD. :-)
  • 08-07-2015
    FastBanana
    I can say, that Ive never seen a line damaged from rocks. This includes super rocky DH trails. But its your bike.
  • 08-07-2015
    tp806
    Well I have actually on 2 Stumpys, really bad luck I guess. But better safe than sorry. And function over form, etc.
  • 08-07-2015
    FastBanana
    From crashing? Baby head rocks?
  • 08-07-2015
    tp806
    Yes baby head rocks and bad landings on big exposed roots at full compression.
    I know it's rare, but I've seen it happen, so routing it above the BB gives me one less thing to worry; and I like it better that way. :)
  • 08-07-2015
    CarManDSL
    Another Dirty White boy . . .
  • 08-07-2015
    tp806
    :thumbsup: :cool:
  • 08-07-2015
    Bristecom
    So I got the Monarch Plus and SRAM Guide brakes for my Enduro and went to a Specialized dealer to install it. I had to schedule a week in advance to get it in. Well, after a week and a half of them not working on it, I finally got fed up and was going to just pick it up and so they finally decided to work on it. Well, I told them clearly many times to take the air volume spacers out first. They did not. Then they argued with me that I shouldn't ever take any air volume spacers out. I tried to explain to them that for my weight it is too much to have all of them in there. Then they said, "Well, we will call SRAM tomorrow and see what they say." And I said, "No, I'll just get the bike and do it myself or have someone else do it." And sure enough, when I got home and tried the shock, it is very stiff, even at 45% sag.

    Then, with my brakes, they did not combine the levers as I asked and they were rubbing the rotors a lot so he bent the heck out of the new rotor trying to get it to work. He finally got it to be mostly quiet but the moment I got home, it was rubbing terribly again.

    And lastly, they overtightened a bolt and cracked it and put one that is much larger in there which sticks out. They also switched my saddle out for some reason when I didn't even ask them to so I had to have them get my old one back on there.

    So yeah... it's just funny because I always dread getting service on anything because every single time, I have a TERRIBLE experience. Now I have to find another dealer that can hopefully fix my rotors and help me undue the things they screwed up. I originally was just going to do all this myself but I didn't want to spend hundreds of dollars on a stand and torque wrench and a couple special tools I would likely only use once. But now that I consider I'll have wasted over a hundred on services, I probably would have been better off. FML...
  • 08-07-2015
    rondre3000
    Wow...you win the "Worst LBS mechanic experience EVER" contest. Get yourself a set of Allen and metric wrenches. Putting on brakes and a shock are easy. 1 beer on a 1-5 scale.

    Jokes aside, search YouTubenext time for videos. You can practically get a college education on YouTube.
  • 08-07-2015
    Bristecom
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by rondre3000 View Post
    Wow...you win the "Worst LBS mechanic experience EVER" contest. Get yourself a set of Allen and metric wrenches. Putting on brakes and a shock are easy. 1 beer on a 1-5 scale.

    Jokes aside, search YouTubenext time for videos. You can practically get a college education on YouTube.

    Yeah, I regret it now. Even if it cost more, it would have probably been worth it in the long run to just get the tools and do it all myself. I should have just asked to borrow the special tool I needed for a minute or paid them 5 bucks to put that piece on. And I was also concerned about the proper torque specs but I don't think they even used a torque wrench anyway. Cracking one of my bolts (and stripping another) is probably proof they didn't.

    And the sad part is that I actually have many stories like this with my car and other things I've tried to get repaired. Like with my car a few months ago, an official dealer actually stole stuff from my car and charged me $100 for something that literally took one minute. And they kept it for over a month just for a simple brake and shock change. Then I went to another dealer to replace an abs sensor and they kept it for two weeks then said they didn't want to do it. And so finally, I randomly tried a local tire shop and they did it in like an hour for super cheap.

    And with my handgun I tried getting serviced recently, the pins would nearly fall out after shooting it a few times and some people on the forums were saying it would explode on them but the service guy said, "Oh, that's just normal. Just knock them back in each time you shoot." I insisted they send it off for repair and so they did and it was gone for 2 months and then when it came back, they fixed the laser but did nothing about the pins.

    I always try to be optimistic and think that surely these guys are pros and could do it better and quicker than I could. But obviously most people don't give a shit about anything if it's not their problem. And after all the frustration I've had with this new bike, I'm starting to regret I even got it. It's the most expensive thing I've ever bought aside from my car. But hopefully some good trail time after dialing it in will change my mind on that.
  • 08-07-2015
    Mudguard
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tp806 View Post
    IMHO, hydraulic line under the BB is way too exposed to rocks, sticks and other debree.
    Looks cleaner and more efficient/elegant like this... ;-)

    I don't think I've ever heard of someone damaging a hydro line from an impact.
    The only issue I've every had with the under BB routing is if you don't give it enough slack...
  • 08-08-2015
    FastBanana
    Ive seen a local shop that gets routing wrong on new bikes all the time.

    Its amazing how bad some shops are. I would be furious.
  • 08-08-2015
    CarManDSL
    3 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by tp806 View Post
    IMHO, hydraulic line under the BB is way too exposed to rocks, sticks and other debris.
    Looks cleaner and more efficient/elegant like this... ;-)

    Well . . . how about this routing method?

    What Specialized FORGOT to do!

    Attachment 1007217Attachment 1007218Attachment 1007219
  • 08-09-2015
    FastBanana
    Did you just drill holes?
  • 08-09-2015
    tp806
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    Well . . . how about this routing method?

    What Specialized FORGOT to do!

    Attachment 1007217Attachment 1007218Attachment 1007219

    [emoji106] [emoji2]
  • 08-09-2015
    CarManDSL
    6 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    Did you just drill holes?

    No. Very carefully planned, elaborate and complex execution. I'm a composite specialist with extensive carbon fibre experience.

    Each hole has a carbon reenforced backing with a contoured bump in the rough shape of a tear drop. This enables the hole to be a short tunnel at an angle to lend support to the cable housings. The added carbon adds strength around the hole to prevent any possible compromise in frame strength.

    The holes are drilled to a diameter that enables the housings to fit as tight as possible to prevent cable housing movement and chaffing.

    First 3 photos show the planning of the HT holes and the testing of the concept on a piece of carbon. Note the tear drop bumps.

    The white plastic is a little mold that was inserted into the BB area to enable the injection of a special epoxy adhesive to reenforce the exit holes. The fuzzy photo is from a remote camera to view the result after adhesive was injected.

    Attachment 1007331Attachment 1007332Attachment 1007333Attachment 1007334Attachment 1007335Attachment 1007336
  • 08-09-2015
    CarManDSL
    2 Attachment(s)
    End result came out perfect. The biggest risk was drilling the final holes at the correct angle and diameter, without chipping the paint. Added a small piece of 3M clear film to prevent the paint from chipping down the road . . . trail!

    Ridiculous amount of work, but necessary to prevent compromising the frame. That being said, the loads subjected to the frame in those areas is well spread out so adding the amount and type of reenforcement is just insurance.

    Attachment 1007342Attachment 1007343
  • 08-09-2015
    FastBanana
    So basically, you just drill holes. Let me get my drill out.

    Kididing of course. This is very cool.

    How did you fill the holes under the downtube?
  • 08-09-2015
    JCL
    Nicely done.

    BTW I know a number of guys who just drilled holes in Stumpy down tubes for a dropper :)
  • 08-09-2015
    FastBanana
    Seen it done in the seattube also. Not this clean though.

    In other news, apparently an Inline Ohlins is on the way.
  • 08-09-2015
    CarManDSL
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    . . . .
    How did you fill the holes under the downtube?

    The little plastic mold was pulled into the downtube via the cables, and held tightly in place while adhesive was injected into the exit holes. The plastic mold allowed the adhesive to form properly around the holes.

    The top holes were easily accessed through the HT.


    Quote:

    Originally Posted by JCL View Post
    Nicely done.

    BTW I know a number of guys who just drilled holes in Stumpy down tubes for a dropper :)

    Thank you. You are correct and a much simpler solution. My execution was over kill, but I can sleep better at night after drilling 5 holes into my carbon frame.

    But the other issue is proper cable alignment and being held in place by the friction of the added entrance and exit "tunnel". Otherwise, the cable flops around at the holes and tends to migrate in and out, shifting up and down in the downtube. They tend to migrate up and therefore shorten under the BB stressing the cables as the suspension travels. The angle and diameter of the hole at the exit causes the housing to bend ever so slightly therefore locking it into place.

    2 Whistler Bike Park days and 3 AM trail rides and no cable migration. :)