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  1. #2101
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergio8691 View Post
    Yeah, their website is tricky. You go to long stroke page (https://www.9point8.ca/index.php?rou...product_id=100), try to buy what you want and choose wait list payment option (or something like that).
    Thanks! Will go to my bike shop today to get an exact measurement of the inside of the seat tube, to find out if the 500mm of the 175er post would fit for me.

  2. #2102
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    Hi, I have Specialized Enduro Comp 29 2013 SE with 2x10 drivetrain and I want to change it to 1x11 but I have problem.

    There is joint, linking front and rear frame,and on this joint is attached also adapter with front derailleur on it. (photo in attachment) If I switch to 1x11 and put front derailleur with adapter away, there will be some space on joint between front and rear frame. Is there some solution for this? How is this solved on Specialized Enduro with stock 1x11??

    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-front-der-1.jpgOfficial Specialized Enduro Thread-front-der-2.jpg

  3. #2103
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  4. #2104
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    Thanks for reply, where can I buy that pad to fill empty space??

  5. #2105
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    I think is a part from 2016 model so the chain guide

  6. #2106
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    I didnt find anything about that online

  7. #2107
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    The bushing came with the bike originally. You may be able to source one from LBS or order directly from Spesh. Or if you just want to move on, leave the taco blade in place.

  8. #2108
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    I want to move on and I leave taco in place, than maybe I ll make spacer direct from taco blade if I ll be sure that I want to stay on 1x . Thanks for help

  9. #2109
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergio8691 View Post
    I am on the waiting list for 200mm 9point8 (my inseam is 38 inches )
    Now put myself on the waiting list for the 8point9 in 175mm. It think it should just fit but it will be a question of millimeters. Also on the waiting list for the Vecnum Moveloc in 170mm, let's see who delivers first.

    Does anyone has experience with fitting the trigger of the Specialized Command Post to other cable-actuated posts? I am asking because BikeYoke has a product called Triggy, which, is supposed to be able to trigger both the Specalized Command Post and the 9point8 Fall Line, among others. So I thought the triggers of the posts may be interchangeable. And I just love the Specialized trigger.

    Cheers, Robert

  10. #2110
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    Quote Originally Posted by the-ninth View Post
    Now put myself on the waiting list for the 8point9 in 175mm. It think it should just fit but it will be a question of millimeters. Also on the waiting list for the Vecnum Moveloc in 170mm, let's see who delivers first.

    Does anyone has experience with fitting the trigger of the Specialized Command Post to other cable-actuated posts? I am asking because BikeYoke has a product called Triggy, which, is supposed to be able to trigger both the Specalized Command Post and the 9point8 Fall Line, among others. So I thought the triggers of the posts may be interchangeable. And I just love the Specialized trigger.

    Cheers, Robert
    I have used the Specialized dropper lever with 9point8, and also KS posts. They are all pretty much universal. Had to increase cable tension when using it with the 9point8.

    I still prefer my gutted XX1 with the gucci carbon lever. Lots of lonely front shifters floating around out there...

  11. #2111
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARider View Post
    I have used the Specialized dropper lever with 9point8, and also KS posts. They are all pretty much universal. Had to increase cable tension when using it with the 9point8.

    I still prefer my gutted XX1 with the gucci carbon lever. Lots of lonely front shifters floating around out there...
    Some internal posts have the swage end of the cable at the post which may not work.

    Also I really doubt you have an XX1 front shifter....

  12. #2112
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    Hey,

    Does anyone know the weight of the wheels that come stock on the 2016 comp?

  13. #2113
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    Quote Originally Posted by alker View Post
    Hey,

    Does anyone know the weight of the wheels that come stock on the 2016 comp?
    https://specialized.com/us/en/compon...ie-650b/106059

  14. #2114
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    Not the same wheelset, comp comes with hi-lo garbage hubs

  15. #2115
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    Actually they are pretty decent wheels even with the hi-lo Specialized hubs, all things considering.
    OK maybe the stock wheels are 50-100g more per set, than the Roval aftermarket ones; no biggie for the price, especially for a 35mm rim, IMHO.

  16. #2116
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    Quote Originally Posted by headshot View Post
    Interesting comments on the shock options and experiences. I have a 2011 Sworks with the stock RP23. Can't say that I can fault it - I use all the travel quite regularly but only one harsh bottom out so far. Added a little more air ( about 170psi) and it rides a tad higher and feels better pedaling uphill. I use the pedal position for climbing and the open setting with 2 on compression damping.

    My main gripe with the bike is the tapping noise I get when pedaling. I have checked headset, BB, pedals, crank, chainring bolts and suspension pivot tightness. All check out fine. Frame is old stock bought new less than a year ago. Pivots are quiet when the suspension is cycled with the shock unbolted. Noise only happens when pedaling as opposed to standing descents or just bouncing on the suspension. The noise starts out softly but gets worse as the ride progresses.

    Any ideas?
    Seems it was the DX pedal axle loose in the pedal body. Tightened it and the pedal in the crank and voila, no more noise.

  17. #2117
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    I ended up making this mod this past weekend. Drilled/tapped a small hole in the LSC knob, then cut off then end of a small allen bolt to put in there. Works great, it's really easy now to know exactly what I'm set to when adjusting the knob on the fly. It's like having CTD that actually works! For climbing fire roads, I have the LSC cranked all the way in, and the allen bolt is vertical (12 o'clock). Each rotation of the knob is exactly 6 clicks. For rolling singletrack, I back it out 4 clicks so the knob is now at 4 o'clock; for DH 4 more clicks, so the knob is at 8 o'clock.

    I'm thinking one could really easily make a lever that goes on there.

  18. #2118
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    Anyone using the Bottomless Tokens in their Pike?

    Hi there! I am waiting for some bottomless tokens to arrive in a week. Is someone using these in their 160 mm Pike? What are your thoughts?

    I have a 2015 Specialized Enduro Elite 650B and weight 205 lbs geared.

    P

  19. #2119
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    Quote Originally Posted by tp806 View Post
    Actually they are pretty decent wheels even with the hi-lo Specialized hubs, all things considering.
    OK maybe the stock wheels are 50-100g more per set, than the Roval aftermarket ones; no biggie for the price, especially for a 35mm rim, IMHO.
    Nope. Comp stock wheels are 500 gr.more per set. I weighed them

  20. #2120
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    Quote Originally Posted by pabloquintana View Post
    Hi there! I am waiting for some bottomless tokens to arrive in a week. Is someone using these in their 160 mm Pike? What are your thoughts?

    I have a 2015 Specialized Enduro Elite 650B and weight 205 lbs geared.

    P
    I tried some out, 1 then 2 with varying pressures. I preferred zero tokens with a higher pressure to keep the front end up. IMO, for me the tokens aren't a great feel. The lower pressure increases fork dive (unless you crank up the LSC, which reduces small bump compliance) then ramps up too much at the end so I never use full travel. I like my fork to stay up in t's travel.

    My setup as a 182lb rider, 75psi in the fork, rebound at 12 clicks, lsc at 5 clicks.
    I also installed my lowers slightly compressed which I feel adds to the small bump compliance with a bit of negative pressure. The lowers may have equalized by now, or even increased pressure, I haven't checked since it feels fine, why mess with it. I use full travel if I'm riding something really steep, but generally I have about 12mm of travel left, and about 10mm on the rear shock, an STX22 Air.

    One other thing is that I run really low tire pressure to help with grip and small bump compliance. 20.5psi

  21. #2121
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Thanks!

    Can you elaborate on "I also installed my lowers slightly compressed"?

    I'd like to try that as I will rebuild the damper soon.

  22. #2122
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    With the fork upside down and the lowers unbolted, install the lowers, compress them about a third of the way, then press the air and damper rod down and away from the threads to release the pressure in the lowers. Once the air and damper rods are seated and bolted up there will be a bit of negative pressure pulling the fork down.

    This is probably not recommended, but I wanted to give it a shot. It seemed to give a plusher feel. Try a few different depths on the lowers to see how it affects the fork. Too much negative pressure and it won't be able to extend all the way once aired up.

  23. #2123
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
    This is probably not recommended.
    That's the reason I will try it then! =)

    Thx!

  24. #2124
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tabby View Post
    Nope. Comp stock wheels are 500 gr.more per set. I weighed them
    Thats A LOT!!! Do you remember which wheel had the most weight on it between the two?

  25. #2125
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    Thats A LOT!!! Do you remember which wheel had the most weight on it between the two?
    Rear, 100-150gr more o less. Stock wheels are nice and wide but heavy. Roval traverse fattie are one step up.

  26. #2126
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    We already assume that the '17 Enduro will have Boost spacing and would assume they will continue the 29ers in this model range, but here is a good clue.

    https://www.specialized.com/us/en/co...-29-148/115979

    There is no current model that can take this wheel, other than retrofitting to the Stumpjumper 6Fattie.
    17 990 Element BC Ed - 24.5 lb (ordered)
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  27. #2127
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    We already assume that the '17 Enduro will have Boost spacing and would assume they will continue the 29ers in this model range, but here is a good clue.

    https://www.specialized.com/us/en/co...-29-148/115979

    There is no current model that can take this wheel, other than retrofitting to the Stumpjumper 6Fattie.

    Good catch - has the same internal rim width as the current S-Works, too. I hope this means they're going to let the cat out of the bag soon. I really hope it also means we're getting a proper, dedicated 29er and not a compromise between wagon wheels and 27.5+.
    2014 Trek Remedy 8 29er
    2003 Gary Fisher X-Caliber

  28. #2128
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    Bought a secondhand Enduro with the ohlins ttx shock. Actually my first coil, but love it.

    Question on the coil size. What is the coil size on a ttx for enduro 29? Also what weight spring is correct for someone in the 170-175 lbs range.

  29. #2129
    catracho in aztecaland
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhsavery View Post
    Bought a secondhand Enduro with the ohlins ttx shock. Actually my first coil, but love it.

    Question on the coil size. What is the coil size on a ttx for enduro 29? Also what weight spring is correct for someone in the 170-175 lbs range.
    Check this thread. You will find a table there with the correct spring rates for your bike.

    Ohlins TTX Build Quality

  30. #2130
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhsavery View Post
    I'm thinking one could really easily make a lever that goes on there.
    Yeah, I was thinking you could make a cap that fits over the existing knob with bumps to fit into the existing cutouts, with a lever on the outside. Just slide it over the existing knob, done. But define "really easily". I'm sure someone with the time/patience/expertise could whip up something like that and put it up on shapeways.com, like this CCDB LSC lever that I used on my CCDB before I got the Ohlins:
    Lockout Lever for Cane Creek DB Air & DB Coil (EBJREQPJ2) by slackard

    If that person is you, go for it, I'd gladly pay for a better lever. In the meantime though, my garage hack is working great and really makes a difference on long rides.

    Edit: Saw earlier post that you just picked up a TTX, and that it's your first coil. Nice! You're gonna be spoiled from now on though, no other shock will feel worthy now...

  31. #2131
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    Does anybody have some advice on how to use the internal cable routing for a dropper post in an Enduro 2015 aluminum frame (external down the downtube, then into the frame at the bottom of the down tube and up through the seat tube)?

    I made the mistake of taking out the cable for the Command Post and now cannot get it in anymore. The instructions for the Command Post are not really helpful, the part of getting the cable in is handled in one or two sentences, it just says to put some radius in the cable and push it through.

    For me that does not work at all, the cable gets stuck and the only thing that happens is that I ruined the outer housing from all the attempts of pushing it through.

    Any advice?

    Thanks a lot in advance!

  32. #2132
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    Quote Originally Posted by the-ninth View Post
    Does anybody have some advice on how to use the internal cable routing for a dropper post in an Enduro 2015 aluminum frame (external down the downtube, then into the frame at the bottom of the down tube and up through the seat tube)?

    I made the mistake of taking out the cable for the Command Post and now cannot get it in anymore. The instructions for the Command Post are not really helpful, the part of getting the cable in is handled in one or two sentences, it just says to put some radius in the cable and push it through.

    For me that does not work at all, the cable gets stuck and the only thing that happens is that I ruined the outer housing from all the attempts of pushing it through.

    Any advice?

    Thanks a lot in advance!
    Do you know where is getting stuck at? I can go and have a look in my bike. I thought it was straight up in the seat tube.

    Definitely nothing beats patience with these things. =)

  33. #2133
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    Quote Originally Posted by the-ninth View Post
    Does anybody have some advice on how to use the internal cable routing for a dropper post in an Enduro 2015 aluminum frame (external down the downtube, then into the frame at the bottom of the down tube and up through the seat tube)?

    I made the mistake of taking out the cable for the Command Post and now cannot get it in anymore. The instructions for the Command Post are not really helpful, the part of getting the cable in is handled in one or two sentences, it just says to put some radius in the cable and push it through.

    For me that does not work at all, the cable gets stuck and the only thing that happens is that I ruined the outer housing from all the attempts of pushing it through.

    Any advice?

    Thanks a lot in advance!
    My guess is that you'll need to remove the bottom bracket to help move it through the bend from the down tube to the seat tube. Or if not the bottom bracket maybe just taking the crank out will give you enough access to that space.

  34. #2134
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    Thanks for your responses!

    Quote Originally Posted by pabloquintana View Post
    Do you know where is getting stuck at? I can go and have a look in my bike. I thought it was straight up in the seat tube. Definitely nothing beats patience with these things. =)
    I think mostly it got stuck at the BB already, once I got past it, but then it still did not get past the obstacles in the seat tube (which are the suspension pivots).

    The instructions show a nice picture on the bottom of page 5:

    https://media.specialized.com/suppor...0000048567.pdf

    Quote Originally Posted by titusquasi View Post
    My guess is that you'll need to remove the bottom bracket to help move it through the bend from the down tube to the seat tube. Or if not the bottom bracket maybe just taking the crank out will give you enough access to that space.
    I was following the instructions in the manual, which say nothing about removing the BB. Also watched a video on how to remove the PF30 BB, but it looks like I still would not get access to the inners of the frame, so I don't think that would help.

    Cheers, Robert

  35. #2135
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    Take the seat tube out (obviously) and use the cable INNER and insert it down the seat tube (use a torch so you can aim at the hole it has to go through to route around the BB shell). You should then be able to hook the inner out of the hole that is at the bottom of the down tube. (use a bent coat hanger or a bent piece of wire as a hook through the hole).

    I struggled with this on my first attempt, I tried to route the outer cable up through the hole at the bottom of the down tube and like you have found out, it gets stuck and you cannot get it through. Went to the Spesh dealer, they did it using my method above in about 2 minutes.

  36. #2136
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    Thanks! Did the same you did, brought it to my local Specialized dealer. Didn't watch though, so not sure what method they used.

  37. #2137
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    Also found out now what the issue is/was: when bike comes installed with a Command Post, then there is a piece of plastic around the cable somewhere around the bottom bracket, to stop it from making noise. When you just pull out the cable, you will loose the plastic piece and it will then block the path, so you won't be able to insert it again.

  38. #2138
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    We already assume that the '17 Enduro will have Boost spacing and would assume they will continue the 29ers in this model range, but here is a good clue.

    https://www.specialized.com/us/en/co...-29-148/115979

    There is no current model that can take this wheel, other than retrofitting to the Stumpjumper 6Fattie.
    Yes, but the Stumpjumpers are also Boost.

  39. #2139
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    Sure?

    on my '14, I was able to feed it through the bottom without any tricks. but it was wasn't easy to do

    Quote Originally Posted by the-ninth View Post
    Also found out now what the issue is/was: when bike comes installed with a Command Post, then there is a piece of plastic around the cable somewhere around the bottom bracket, to stop it from making noise. When you just pull out the cable, you will loose the plastic piece and it will then block the path, so you won't be able to insert it again.

  40. #2140
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    Sure? on my '14, I was able to feed it through the bottom without any tricks. but it was wasn't easy to do
    Yes, when looking into the seat tube with a flashlight, I could see that thing, and the Specialized shop explained what it is. Mine is MY 2015, maybe they added it only in that year? The Command Post instruction manual does not say anything about it, so I guess it is not part of the aftermarket kit as well.

    Dealer said I should have dismounted the cable from the trigger, then pushed it up through the seat tube until I could remove that thing and only then take the cable out. Interestingly their recommendation for re-installing the cable is also the cable first and then push the housing on, while the manual goes the other way around, housing first.

  41. #2141
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    I guess the news are out Exclusif : le nouveau Specialized Enduro 2017 est là? | Bike Magazine, l?actualité du VTT : Enduro, All Mountain et Downhill

    Specifications of The new ‪#‎Specialized‬ ‪#‎Enduro‬ 2017 :
    - FACT IS-X 11m, full carbon chassis and rear end
    - X-FRAME design with more Head Tube Angle and Less Chain Stay
    - SWAT™Door integration
    - Boost Hub Standards - Boost 12x148mm and 15x110mm (6Fattie)
    - Fully enclosed internal cable routing
    - FSR suspension
    - Rear Shock and Fork : Öhlins (STX and RXF36)
    - RockShox Super Deluxe RC3 METRIQUE
    - Bottom Bracket BSA
    - New SRAM XX1 Eagle 12-speed
    - SRAM Guide Ultimate and RSC
    - Roval Traverse SL 6Fattie carbon wheels
    - 27.5 - 27.5+ and 29"
    - Command Post IRcc 12 position micro-height adjustable,

  42. #2142
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    Hi,

    I have a 2016 enduro 650b comp and I'm considering switching out my stock fox float rear shock for a Rockshox Monarch Plus RC3, what dimension should I have? I've heard conflicting information, is it 216x63 or 216x57? Also, what mounting hardware do I need on the upper mount? I know the lower mount is proprietary for specialized.

  43. #2143
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    I just put one on my bike. I ordered it through my LBS and local specialized dealer so they got me the right part for my 2015. It is way better then that chappy fox that was on there.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

  44. #2144
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    If someone wants to use the bike yoke with an after market shock in a E29 what are the available options that come at 216x57? I was checking and I could only find shocks with 216x63.

  45. #2145
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    Quote Originally Posted by alker View Post
    Hi,

    I have a 2016 enduro 650b comp and I'm considering switching out my stock fox float rear shock for a Rockshox Monarch Plus RC3, what dimension should I have? I've heard conflicting information, is it 216x63 or 216x57? Also, what mounting hardware do I need on the upper mount? I know the lower mount is proprietary for specialized.


    Pretty sure it's 216x57. Also the Specialized website/pdf for the 2016 Enduro line should tell you the dimensions.

    Check out Universal Cycles, they should have the part with model years and such. Mine came with the mounting hardware and a pump in the box.

  46. #2146
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    If someone wants to use the bike yoke with an after market shock in a E29 what are the available options that come at 216x57? I was checking and I could only find shocks with 216x63.
    If you're using a BikeYoke, the eye to eye size is *different* than the numbers for the normal shock with the Specialized yoke mount. In the E29 case, you want 200x57, which is common. See this comparison doc, from the BikeYoke site:
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/e1my6rnb83...lized.pdf?dl=0

  47. #2147
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    I'm considering going with a yoke and then run a 200x57 rockshox kage RC on my 650b. Does anyone here know the measurements on the upper bushing?

  48. #2148
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    interesting how the initial photos of a new enduro, which looked awesome, are not the design they are going with for the 2017 enduro. maybe that frame design will appear in 2018?

  49. #2149
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    Name:  enduro.jpeg
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Size:  5.9 KB

  50. #2150
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    Those are fake

  51. #2151
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    Hey,

    Did anyone try putting a semifatty in the rear on a 650b model? I tried with some success on my fork with a 2.8 NN, but thought I'd save myself the trouble asking here rather than having to mount it in the rear just to check.

    Cheers

  52. #2152
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    i have a 2015 enduro carbon medium, and have been through 3 dbinlines, and 1 dbair. Is there a coil shock that would fit this frame and standard yoke? thx!

  53. #2153
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    Push ElevenSix. Or a Fox X2. The Frame actually is better designed for airshocks due to the leverage ratio, but Cane Creeks seem to not hold up for whatever reason.

    The Ohlins STX is a good air option too. Or a Monarch. Plenty of options really

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

  54. #2154
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    i see a couple ohlins stx-22's for sale. whats the consensus of the better air shock to go in this frame,ohlins or monarch? thx

  55. #2155
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    Push ElevenSix x 1. I went through 3 DBInlines before making the switch.

  56. #2156
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    Quote Originally Posted by gosts View Post
    i see a couple ohlins stx-22's for sale. whats the consensus of the better air shock to go in this frame,ohlins or monarch? thx
    I blew up a fox float, double barrel air and a ohlins stx 22. Now I am on the monarch and it lasted longer so far that everything except the ohlins. We will see how it goes.

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  57. #2157
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    FWIW i broke my frame before my CC failed. I run compression fairly open.

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  58. #2158
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    I'd do an Avy coil or Push 11-6

  59. #2159
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    Quote Originally Posted by gosts View Post
    i have a 2015 enduro carbon medium, and have been through 3 dbinlines, and 1 dbair. Is there a coil shock that would fit this frame and standard yoke? thx!
    Ohlins TTX. About 3/4 cost of the Elevensix. Yellow would look good in that carbon frame.

  60. #2160
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    OK so I tried jamming my 2.8 NN in the rear wheel and it cleared with about 4-5mm clearance in every direction, wouldn't recommend running it though. At least it means the frame can clear 2.5s

  61. #2161
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    Ohlins TTX. About 3/4 cost of the Elevensix. Yellow would look good in that carbon frame.
    The yellow does look good on my black 2014 but it's not in the same ballpark as the ElevenSix in my opinion. I only got one ride on the ElevenSix but it was really nice. I thought the Ohlins would be close for less money. Nope.
    2 wheels

  62. #2162
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    I would like to try an Elevensix, but it's not the kind of product you can demo easily. I'm happy with the TTX, I don't touch it other than increase the low speed damping a little for long climbs. So I can't see the need for the second circuit offered by Push. I'd like to try the STX but have gone off air shocks.

  63. #2163
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    I would like to try an Elevensix, but it's not the kind of product you can demo easily. I'm happy with the TTX, I don't touch it other than increase the low speed damping a little for long climbs. So I can't see the need for the second circuit offered by Push. I'd like to try the STX but have gone off air shocks.
    There is no reason to try it, just buy it. I swear that Darrin and the crew fill them with the body fluids of unicorns and fairies to get the ride quality. Simply nothing else like it on the market.

    The second circuit does exactly what you are asking for, but gives you options if you change your mind. It also happens to be lighter than the CCDB as well.

  64. #2164
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    My issue is that obviously without trying it, I'm not sure how much better for my riding it could be. Yes if I was coming off the stock shock, CTD or Monarch Plus (which I still have) it would be different. But the TTX is the first shock I've owned in a long time that has usable adjustments. I had Dougal remove half the shim stack f from my Pikes and even then it was still too harsh.
    Whereas the Ohlins has been great out of the box.
    Believe me I've thought about the Elevensix. Anything custom will work better than an OEM version, especially if you are at the end of the weight ranges.
    I couldn't decide what the two circuits would be, DH and trail? I like it plush 99% of the time. I'm not sure about a climb mode. You never know, if I see someone my weight with one, I'll push them off and give it a test ride!
    Edit. I think everything else would be lighter than the TTX

  65. #2165
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    Any recommendations for a replacement BB for my Carbon E29? I've been replacing once a year and I'd like to get something that lasts longer if it's out there?

  66. #2166
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    I had fairly good luck with my BB once my LBS glued in the alloy cups. The bearings wore out pretty fast but it was easy and cheap enough to pop them out and replace them, although the last time I did that the cups started moving out as well so obviously they weren't glued in anymore at that point. Never the less I had no creaking until recently. Rather than go back to that same solution I bought the Wheels Mfg screw together BB. This is similar to the one made by Enduro Bearings (torq tite) but quite a bit cheaper. I've only ridden it once since then but the creaking was definitely gone. I only needed one wrench from them as I was able to keep the other side from spinning with an old hook spanner I had laying around although you could manage the same with a screwdriver or something. I found that I also did not need to press the one side in, it slipped in easily enough by hand.

    Anyway I think these screw together BB"s are the way to go, and the Wheels one is much cheaper than the Enduro one.

    Either way, you still have to replace these thin Pf30 bearings quite often, twice a season for me, but they're cheap ($8-10 apiece) and easy enough to knock in and out.

  67. #2167
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    Quote Originally Posted by k-addicted View Post
    I've been replacing once a year and I'd like to get something that lasts longer if it's out there?
    Any idea why they're wearing out so fast? Lots of K's, wet?

    I don't ride in the wet but often have my bike on the bike rack driving for work, so it gets water trapped that way.
    I replaced the BB with one of these with the optional storm drains (my frame doesn't have any holes under the BB
    BB30 Internal Press-fit Bottom Bracket - MCI30 (Monocrome)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Specialized Enduro Thread-screenshot_20160909-073907-01.jpg  


  68. #2168
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    quick question- is there a washer that goes on the allen bolt that attaches the shock to the yoke? I ask because i do not have a washer on my bolt, and the bolt seems to be bottoming out instead of getting super tight. It is getting tight enough i believe, and there is no play i can feel in that connection, but thought i would ask as i am getting a small amount of knocking coming from that area, especially when going fast out of the saddle on chunky stuff. I am running a DBair on a 15 enduro carbon 27.5. thanks!!

  69. #2169
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    Some shocks require the washer. I thought it was only Rock Shox. My Inline doesn't need it. If you've got play, it's worth a try.

  70. #2170
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    Thanks. I don't have any play that i can feel with my hand, and the inline did not need one, nor did my dbair come with one. Not sure if i need one, and my try just to check it out. Anyone running a dbair comment on whether they use a washer or not? thx

  71. #2171
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    Looking at buying a 2007 Specialized Enduro Elite

    Hi guys,

    There is a 2007 Enduro Elite on craigslist and Im thinking about snatching it up. Its an XL frame (Im 6'1" and have a wing-span of 6'3"). Do you guys think this is too big of a frame for me? Could I make any adjustments that would help (like getting a shorter stem)? Im hoping to use the bike as an "all around" bike (bike park/trail/xc/jumps).
    The guy selling it is asking $750 for it...is that a good buy? Or should I wait for something else to come around?


    Here are some pics of the bike:
    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-01717_dsk0sfbztzb_600x450.jpgName:  00L0L_8VwdqXiDfwZ_600x450.jpg
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    Thanks

  72. #2172
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    I think the bike would fit you well. I am 6'2" with a regular wingspan and rode a large not to far back and it was too small. An XL would have been perfect.

  73. #2173
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    I think that with a little bit more money you can find much better bikes than a 10 years old Enduro.

  74. #2174
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    Quote Originally Posted by dfolta View Post
    Hi guys,

    There is a 2007 Enduro Elite on craigslist and Im thinking about snatching it up. Its an XL frame (Im 6'1" and have a wing-span of 6'3"). Do you guys think this is too big of a frame for me? Could I make any adjustments that would help (like getting a shorter stem)? Im hoping to use the bike as an "all around" bike (bike park/trail/xc/jumps).
    The guy selling it is asking $750 for it...is that a good buy? Or should I wait for something else to come around?


    Here are some pics of the bike:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Thanks
    Old tech but not bad tech.

    $500 just because of the color.
    How can anyone who's been riding as long as I have, be so slow???

  75. #2175
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    Advice please?

    I have a 2000 Enduro Comp and I would like to upgrade the rear shock to one that has lockout as I am doing more climbing as of late. Not looking to put any $500 kashinka units on her, something budget minded would be ideal. Any ideas?

  76. #2176
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    Hello,

    does anybody have experience with reducing the air volume on the Ohlins STX22? I'd like it to be just a slight bit more progressive but my LBS says, there are no volume spacers for the Ohlins available.

  77. #2177
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    Are you bottoming easily? Surely you just a few more psi. If it has autosag try setting it up manually. Autosag seems to err on the side of too firm for me (not with the Ohlins STX)

  78. #2178
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    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
    Last edited by FastBanana; 10-22-2016 at 04:05 PM.

  79. #2179
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    Are you bottoming easily? Surely you just a few more psi. If it has autosag try setting it up manually. Autosag seems to err on the side of too firm for me (not with the Ohlins STX)
    Bottoming pretty easily. Not as worse as a Stock-E29-DB-Inline, but not perfect.
    I am running around 11mm of SAG and it still bottoms (highspeed compression set to mid).
    Appart from this, i am having issues with a way to fast rebound (low- & highspeed). Does anybody else experience this problem? Rider weight is approx. 70kg. The shock is way too lively, even with the rebound cranked all the way in. I wonder if there is any possibility to change the tune or get it changed, without running into warranty issues.

  80. #2180
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    Also having a question about rear shocks.

    I have a 2015 Elite with the Cane Creek DB Inline. At the moment the shock is making trouble again, it makes a noise when pushing it in with activated climb switch, which means with every pedal stroke when pedalling uphill. Climb switch off, no noise. It is probably over the recommended service interval (Garmin does not give me the hours, but it has been 1000 km since the last service). However with my amount of riding, I'd need a service twice a year, which is troublesome and costly.

    So now I am thinking about alternatives. Would I fare better with a DB Air CS when it comes to longevity? How about other manufacturers? One very important criteria is for me the climbing mode, I do both long ascends on fire roads and short technical climbs.

    Any advice would be appreciated.

  81. #2181
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
    I tried some out, 1 then 2 with varying pressures. I preferred zero tokens with a higher pressure to keep the front end up. IMO, for me the tokens aren't a great feel. The lower pressure increases fork dive (unless you crank up the LSC, which reduces small bump compliance) then ramps up too much at the end so I never use full travel. I like my fork to stay up in t's travel.

    My setup as a 182lb rider, 75psi in the fork, rebound at 12 clicks, lsc at 5 clicks.
    I also installed my lowers slightly compressed which I feel adds to the small bump compliance with a bit of negative pressure. The lowers may have equalized by now, or even increased pressure, I haven't checked since it feels fine, why mess with it. I use full travel if I'm riding something really steep, but generally I have about 12mm of travel left, and about 10mm on the rear shock, an STX22 Air.

    One other thing is that I run really low tire pressure to help with grip and small bump compliance. 20.5psi
    Thanks you for shairing experience. My fork feels good have good small bump sensitivity but dive too much at about 65 psi, I am same weight with you. I was thinking to add 1 or 2 tokens. I will try your setup.

  82. #2182
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    I am on the other side since I think that new forks and shocks are designed to work better with tokens and rubber bands and I have tried almost all combinations before settling down to 3 tokens in my Pike and 9 bands in my Monarch Plus Debonair (actually it came like this from the factory). This way I can have good small bump sensitivity and mid stroke support without bottoming my fork and shock.

    As for numbers I am 94 kg and run 3 tokens and 79 psi in my Pike, 9 bands and 215 psi in Monarch.

  83. #2183
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    Just popped my STX22 today. Specialized sent me a RMA within about 5 minutes of calling.

    Thinking of moving to a Fox X2

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
    Fox X2 is a great shock, but currently there is a recall for it. Affected shocks seem to be those that do not yet have a 250 PSI max sticker on it. See the press release for more information, and Fox Files Voluntary Recall on X2
    Selling my BC Bike Race 2017 entry, PM me if interested

  84. #2184
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    Anyone interested in a Ohlins STX22 with 2016 650B yoke? Fresh rebuild with FY17 specs

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  85. #2185
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    Quote Originally Posted by FastBanana View Post
    Anyone interested in a Ohlins STX22 with 2016 650B yoke? Fresh rebuild with FY17 specs

    Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk
    I am assuming the 2016 650B yoke fits the 2014 E29's the same way the 2015 650b yoke did? (Don't think they made any changes between those years)

    If so shoot me a pm on the price or post here as I would be interested. Thank you in advance

  86. #2186
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    Quote Originally Posted by Singletrack29er View Post
    I am assuming the 2016 650B yoke fits the 2014 E29's the same way the 2015 650b yoke did? (Don't think they made any changes between those years)

    If so shoot me a pm on the price or post here as I would be interested. Thank you in advance
    PM sent. Itll work great on your E29.


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  87. #2187
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    I am on the other side since I think that new forks and shocks are designed to work better with tokens and rubber bands and I have tried almost all combinations before settling down to 3 tokens in my Pike and 9 bands in my Monarch Plus Debonair (actually it came like this from the factory). This way I can have good small bump sensitivity and mid stroke support without bottoming my fork and shock.

    As for numbers I am 94 kg and run 3 tokens and 79 psi in my Pike, 9 bands and 215 psi in Monarch.
    I tried no tokens 75 psi and recommended settings but when dive a big drop about 6-7 feet (2m) it buttoms out. Not out of control but I dont like that feel. I will try 2 tokens about 65- 70 psi.

  88. #2188
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    Not bad. It's under 30lb with the 457lb spring on it. Reasonable rubber, lots of grip, 180mm rear travel and 170mm front. DH lite!
    30.05lbs by Chazz Michael Michaels, on Flickr

  89. #2189
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    Interesting! Looks like a standard Enduro (not Evo) based on the S-link, so to get to 180 in the back (instead of the stock 165) you must have gotten the "wrong" shock, i.e. with a longer stroke than the standard for that frame. I've seen posts elsewhere that suggest that there is clearance. If you swap in a good Ti spring you'll probably drop over 1/2 pound more. Those Ohlins springs are heavy.

  90. #2190
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    You must have gotten the "wrong" shock, i.e. with a longer stroke than the standard for that frame. I've seen posts elsewhere that suggest that there is clearance. If you swap in a good Ti spring you'll probably drop over 1/2 pound more. Those Ohlins springs are heavy.
    Yeah they sent me the 63mm version instead of 57mm. I'd waited so long for it I thought I'd bolt it in to check clearance, which it does fortunately. It meant I could add a bit more travel on the front too. I don't really have any more parts to change. I've been looking at cranks but I think the stock ones are reasonable in weight. I'm tempted by increasing my range by going to 1x11 but I really like the Saint 10 speed setup. I've got 30x36t on 26" wheels so it's reasonably low geared.

  91. #2191
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    Wait, so did they send you the Enduro Evo model? That one is 222x63 (vs. 216x57 stock for that bike). So it has longer stroke AND longer eye-to-eye. Or did they send you one for a 2013 Enduro, which was the only one that used 216x63 (they switched to 216x57 in 2014)? If it's the Evo one, with the longer eye to eye that would affect geometry... so then bumping the travel/A2C in the front would make sense. What's the head angle on that one now?

    I'm with you on Saint 10 speed, that's what I'm using - well, Saint shifter but XT 11-sp RD now. That works great with a OneUp 42 cog, so I have pretty good low range and can still keep a big ring up front (36) for good high end.

  92. #2192
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    Wait, so did they send you the Enduro Evo model? That one is 222x63 (vs. 216x57 stock for that bike). So it has longer stroke AND longer eye-to-eye. Or did they send you one for a 2013 Enduro, which was the only one that used 216x63 (they switched to 216x57 in 2014)?
    I don't know where the 200x57 comes from for the 14 E26. Everything I've read says it's 216x57. I can see bike yoke suggest 200x57mm but I don't know where they got that from.
    And when I bought the Ohlins they made 3 versions;
    241x76
    216x63
    216x57

  93. #2193
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimw View Post
    If you swap in a good Ti spring you'll probably drop over 1/2 pound more. Those Ohlins springs are heavy.
    Clearly Ohlins have been listening. For their new Universal shock (IE normal eyelets)
    We have developed new springs for the TTX 22 M Universal and decreased the weight by 25-30%.

    I'm trying to find the part number.

  94. #2194
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    Not bad. It's under 30lb with the 457lb spring on it. Reasonable rubber, lots of grip, 180mm rear travel and 170mm front. DH lite!
    30.05lbs by Chazz Michael Michaels, on Flickr
    Is that a 29er or 26er? Frame looks E29 2014

  95. #2195
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tabby View Post
    Is that a 29er or 26er? Frame looks E29 2014
    Yeah 2014 E26.

  96. #2196
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    I don't know where the 200x57 comes from for the 14 E26. Everything I've read says it's 216x57. I can see bike yoke suggest 200x57mm but I don't know where they got that from.
    Hmm, I never said anything about a 200 eye to eye, but since you mentioned the BikeYoke chart here's the deal with that. Their yoke has physically different dimensions from the stock Spec yoke! For that model they made it so that it's longer than the standard Spec yoke, so that when connected to a common 200x57 shock, the overall "eye to end of yoke" length is the same as the stock Spec yoke plus 216x57 shock. They did this because 216x57 is a weird size (uncommon stroke for that eye to eye). As long as the overall length and stroke adds up to the same as stock, it's fine.

    But back to the standard Spec parts:
    And when I bought the Ohlins they made 3 versions;
    241x76
    216x63
    216x57
    Ah, that's what I wasn't sure of, if they actually made a 216x63 one. That is SPECIFICALLY for the 2013 Enduro 26, which was the ONLY model that used that eye to eye/stroke. That one switched to to 216x57 in 2014. So to annotate your chart:

    241x76 - Demo
    216x63 - Enduro 26" 2013 ONLY
    216x57 - Enduro 26" 2014, all Enduro 650b/29
    222x63 - Enduro Evo

    I added the last one. It's true that the info is confusing and there's conflicting info out there, like in [Ohlins TTX Build Quality Ohlins thread[/url] (I contributed some incorrect info to that thread initially too! ).

    So, in your case it sounds like your eye to eye didn't change, so you just got additional travel with no geo change. But presumably adding the 170 fork would have had a different A2C so probably slacked out the HA a bit and raised the BB? What do those measure at now? Pretty cool setup. Basically an Enduro Evo Lite!

    Clearly Ohlins have been listening. For their new Universal shock (IE normal eyelets)
    We have developed new springs for the TTX 22 M Universal and decreased the weight by 25-30%.
    That matches what I heard from the LBS. They were at the Spec Enduro launch up in BC and the guy was talking with some of the Spec folks about this. Apparently the original springs came from their standard moto setup, where accuracy in spring rate is most important, and weight not so much. So they were supposedly working on some lighter version of the springs for the MTB application. Probably will be similar to the Fox SLS springs. Will be interesting to see how those turn out and how expensive they are. I got a Ti spring for mine that dropped over 1/2 lb vs. the Ohlins spring, but it certainly wasn't cheap. I wonder if they will come in any colors besides yellow...

  97. #2197
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    Yeah in hindsight I would've been better off buying an Evo, but I still have the CTD, Monarch Plus and the Pike at home. Plus a spare set of wheels with XC tires on it.
    So if I need to, it go back to 165/160mm and shed some weight!
    I saw your thread on the Ti spring (I was user Mudguard, but cannot log back in for the life of me), I would like a lighter spring, but love the yellow!
    If you come across the part number for the new spring versions, post em up.

    As for the geo, I didn't really notice the change as I run a quite a bit of sag, I did notice going from 60mm to a 50mm stem a lot more than I have with previous bikes.

    Edit, What about the 2014 Enduro Evo? Surely that was 216x63, in order to get an Ohlins on it?

  98. #2198
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    Quote Originally Posted by Notched View Post
    Yeah in hindsight I would've been better off buying an Evo, but I still have the CTD, Monarch Plus and the Pike at home. Plus a spare set of wheels with XC tires on it.
    So if I need to, it go back to 165/160mm and shed some weight!
    Sweet, that's a pretty cool and versatile setup!

    I saw your thread on the Ti spring (I was user Mudguard, but cannot log back in for the life of me)
    Ah, that makes sense. I was thinking a lot of your recent posts were similar to Mudguard's!

    I would like a lighter spring, but love the yellow!
    If you come across the part number for the new spring versions, post em up.
    Yeah, will do. Funny, I got a black Ti spring on purpose, aside from the weight the yellow just wasn't doing it for me. Yeah I know it's Ohlins' signature color...

    Edit, What about the 2014 Enduro Evo? Surely that was 216x63, in order to get an Ohlins on it?
    No, the Evo has always been 222x63 (all model years, both 26" and 650b). It's a physically different S-link (and front triangle I believe). The eye-to-eye is longer than the standard Enduro. The Evo is designed around a 180 shock and is a bit longer/lower/slacker (before that was The Next Big Thing) vs. the standard E26. You can kinda see the differences visually tabbing between these 2 pages:

    2014 E26
    2014 Enduro Expert Evo

  99. #2199
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    Gotta button it up, but I did some things. Yes, thats a DVO.



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  100. #2200
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    Another photo, all done except for the fork graphics which are in the works.

    Saddle is a place holder too. Its due some carbon wheels as well. The Spanks arent holding up well.



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