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  1. #2001
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    I did.

  2. #2002
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    I did.
    Thanks, and do you feel better brake power?

    And what kind of clamp do you use for the GX1 shifter?

    Thanks

  3. #2003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Endu1234 View Post
    Thanks, and do you feel better brake power?

    And what kind of clamp do you use for the GX1 shifter?

    Thanks
    I do like it much better. I went all to XT 11 speed at the same time as I did the new XT brakes. I am a shimano shifting and braking fan boy. I use the "pull shift" and the double shift down many times a ride and find I am missing it on sram shifters.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

  4. #2004
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    Enduro appreciation

    Had a little bike appreciation ride today. Left my '15 S-Works Enduro 29er for an annual service and took out my old '10 Carbon Expert 26er for a ride. I rode up the cow trail in Laguna and down Peter Paul and Dirky and up Bomber road and down Waimea. Every aspect of the ride was harder from pedal strikes to steep up climbing to the technical decents. I ended up in the bushes after a bail out when I didn't make a rock I thought wouldn't be a problem. What a great testimony to the Enduro.
    Last edited by unltd172; 04-27-2016 at 04:07 PM.

  5. #2005
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    Anyone know the pivot bearing sizes for the 2014-15 Enduro?

  6. #2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet-brazed View Post
    Anyone know the pivot bearing sizes for the 2014-15 Enduro?
    8st 6802-2rs (15*24*5)
    4st 6801-2rs (12*21*5)

  7. #2007
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikipedia_ View Post
    8st 6802-2rs (15*24*5)
    4st 6801-2rs (12*21*5)
    Awesome! Thanks Mikipedia, exactly what I needed. Pretty common sizes.

    One question, what does the "8st" and 4st" mean?

  8. #2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fillet-brazed View Post
    Awesome! Thanks Mikipedia, exactly what I needed. Pretty common sizes.

    One question, what does the "8st" and 4st" mean?
    Its swedish for 8 pcs and 4 pcs. 😀

  9. #2009
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    Shock upgrade for new 2014 Enduro Comp 29er

    Hey guys! So I just picked up a brand new, off the bike shop floor, Enduro Comp 29er at below cost. Did some upgrades (dropper post, XT brakes, praxis one by). Bike makes me go faster and harder than I ever have!

    But I have one major issue still; no matter how much I adjust the rear shock (Fox float RP2) it feels really harsh on moderate sized drops and rock hits. Even when I don't totally bottom out, it feels like I am bottoming out. (Yes, I know this particular shock does not use the entire length of the stanchion, so with all the air out, I have put a piece of electrical tape around the last ~ 15mm or so to know where the true bottom is). I have thrown in various air volume spacers, adjusted rebound, and tried all variations of sag and psi. Without any spacers I was needing about 200psi to not bottom out (I weigh about 160#). I am now running 155psi with the second smallest spacer.

    So my question for you experienced Enduro owners/riders is: Has anyone experienced this and upgraded the shock to say the RockShox Monarch or the new Fox float X2 and experienced your harsh bottom feel change to a bottomless feel? (Sorry if this has been said before; did some searches to no avail.) Thanks for your help in advance!

  10. #2010
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    Best thing I ever did was get rid of my fox rear shock on my enduro, second best thing was to get rid of the inline that replaced the fox with the new ohlins air shock sxt22. Bottomless well supported feeling. Custom tuned for weight would be the only thing that would be better but this shock was custom made for this bike. So win win.

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  11. #2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueSpruce View Post
    Hey guys! So I just picked up a brand new, off the bike shop floor, Enduro Comp 29er at below cost. Did some upgrades (dropper post, XT brakes, praxis one by). Bike makes me go faster and harder than I ever have!

    But I have one major issue still; no matter how much I adjust the rear shock (Fox float RP2) it feels really harsh on moderate sized drops and rock hits. Even when I don't totally bottom out, it feels like I am bottoming out. (Yes, I know this particular shock does not use the entire length of the stanchion, so with all the air out, I have put a piece of electrical tape around the last ~ 15mm or so to know where the true bottom is). I have thrown in various air volume spacers, adjusted rebound, and tried all variations of sag and psi. Without any spacers I was needing about 200psi to not bottom out (I weigh about 160#). I am now running 155psi with the second smallest spacer.

    So my question for you experienced Enduro owners/riders is: Has anyone experienced this and upgraded the shock to say the RockShox Monarch or the new Fox float X2 and experienced your harsh bottom feel change to a bottomless feel? (Sorry if this has been said before; did some searches to no avail.) Thanks for your help in advance!
    I'd suggest you try the Avalanche shock upgrade $229 on that Fox before replacing with something much more expensive.

  12. #2012
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    Hey guys, thanks for the recommendations so far. I should add that I have the ability to get most big name parts at cost, hence the Fox and RockShox questions. But that Avalanche upgrade sounds really interesting, never heard of it before. The Ohlins looks amazing... I will need to see if I can pick that up at cost.

    There are tons of those inline shocks for sale on pinkbike, so I am guessing that they are not as reliable. Thanks so far... keep it coming! I really want this bike to work for me.

  13. #2013
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    Knock on wood, I have actually had really good luck with my Inline and enjoy it very much. I have tried the Monarch Plus and Inline back to back and prefer the Inline, although the Monarch is much better than the stock Fox RP23. I wouldn't hesitate to buy an Inline that has had a recent rebuild from Cane Creek.

  14. #2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by softbatch View Post
    I'd suggest you try the Avalanche shock upgrade $229 on that Fox before replacing with something much more expensive.
    Just noticed if your RP2 has a boostvalve then the upgrade is only $179

  15. #2015
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    When are they coming out?

  16. #2016
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    So far it looks like I have the ability to get either the Cane Creek in line or the Rock Shox monarch. Fanderson had some good insight on these two. Anyone else have an opinion on these two, or find one to perform better?

    The Ohlins shock and the Fox float X2 look pretty sweet, but pricey at full MSRP... but not ruling them out yet.

    Part of me worries that the suspension of the Enduro is so linear that it will always feel harsh, no matter how good the shock, so I am afraid to drop several hundred on a new shock. On the other hand, so many really love these bikes, (and they get rave reviews) so maybe it really is the Fox float RP2 making it feel so harsh.

  17. #2017
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    I guess it depends, I started with the CTD on my 14 E26, then went to a Monarch Plus and finally an Ohlins TTX (Coil). I felt the CTD had to be run too soft to get the small bump compliance I wanted, but then went through it's travel too quickly with no support in the middle. Upping the pressure made the small bump non existent.
    The Monarch Plus was much better, I did not have the model that has the removable can (so you can add volume reducers), but it was still a big improvement, I often left it in full descent mode and rode everywhere like that. I prefer an active shock with lots of sag and am happy to sacrifice pedaling efficiency.

    The Ohlins was another step up, the back of the bike is glued to the ground. But it is costly, so much so I probably have should bought the Evo frame. However I have not tried the air version.

    I would consider getting your original shock revalved for you weight and riding style first, or go straight to the Monarch and do the same thing.
    Maybe try ride another Enduro with the different shocks.

  18. #2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueSpruce View Post
    Hey guys, thanks for the recommendations so far. I should add that I have the ability to get most big name parts at cost, hence the Fox and RockShox questions. But that Avalanche upgrade sounds really interesting, never heard of it before. The Ohlins looks amazing... I will need to see if I can pick that up at cost.
    Custom tune is almost always better than any off-the-shelf suspension products. I would say "always", but I should leave some leeway there. Still, I'd take an older Avy or Avy tuned shock than any "latest and greatest", because most everything can not match what you get from these custom tuned shocks. You have to realize that they have to valve the OEM stuff so a 240lb rider won't blow it it apart and so it still uses travel for a 140lb rider. You simply can't tune across such a vast range effectively without modifying internals. For best performance, a custom tune is the way to go. Then the orifices are sized to the fluid flow required to you and the forces, the shims or valves are specifically tuned for your weight, and so on. For people that haven't experienced it, it's basically having your cake and eating it too, in terms of firm low-speed compression that doesn't dip dive and bob everywhere and high speed that will seemlessly and quickly blow off to absorb sharp impacts without spiking.

    It really pisses me off that the "descend" modes with pretty much all OEM shocks basically leave the low-speed compression wide open so you have no low-speed support, so your bike chassis dives all over the place with every bump, doesn't resist g-outs as well, and so on. They just don't get it for the most part and you always have to sacrifice this to get any decent high speed/sharp edged bump absorption, making the "trail" or "middle" compression setting annoying due to the harsh travel.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  19. #2019
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    I may be dumb here, but I can't seem to find the page on the Spesh site that contained the manuals for the bikes? Looks like they've redesigned the site (and it's terrible)

    I'm trying to find the link to the exploded frame diagram for a 2016 650b Enduro Elite. Hub bearings are knackered and was hoping to find the IDs and order them first rather than having to take the bearings out to find the IDs

    Can anyone help?

  20. #2020
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    Which hub? Front or rear? If it's the rear it's probably a DT Swiss 350 rear hub, in which case bearings should be easy to look up.
    Scratch that, that was the 2015 model. Looks like the 16's have a HiLo hub which is probably a Formula hub, in which case I've no idea. I've got one sitting at home, but am away from work so it will be faster for you to look up!

  21. #2021
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    '16 Elite's have DT 360 internals in the rear hub.

  22. #2022
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueSpruce View Post
    Hey guys! So I just picked up a brand new, off the bike shop floor, Enduro Comp 29er at below cost. Did some upgrades (dropper post, XT brakes, praxis one by). Bike makes me go faster and harder than I ever have!

    But I have one major issue still; no matter how much I adjust the rear shock (Fox float RP2) it feels really harsh on moderate sized drops and rock hits. Even when I don't totally bottom out, it feels like I am bottoming out. (Yes, I know this particular shock does not use the entire length of the stanchion, so with all the air out, I have put a piece of electrical tape around the last ~ 15mm or so to know where the true bottom is). I have thrown in various air volume spacers, adjusted rebound, and tried all variations of sag and psi. Without any spacers I was needing about 200psi to not bottom out (I weigh about 160#). I am now running 155psi with the second smallest spacer.

    So my question for you experienced Enduro owners/riders is: Has anyone experienced this and upgraded the shock to say the RockShox Monarch or the new Fox float X2 and experienced your harsh bottom feel change to a bottomless feel? (Sorry if this has been said before; did some searches to no avail.) Thanks for your help in advance!
    I might be alone, but I run the stock Float CTD on my S-Works Enduro.

    The DB Air was obviously not reliable and left me walking a couple of times. Same with the DB Inline. The RS Debonair is all wrong for the Enduro. The X2 was not available yet, so I purchased a stock Float CTD from Spesh and had Push tune it.

    The Push tuned CTD has been by far the best shock, even better than the DB Air when it was working.

    I will also try the X2 if they make one for the Enduro with the dual position lever.

    I don't know why so many people like the Debonair, the air volume is just too much for the Enduro's high leverage ratio. There is a reason RS puts all 9 reducers in it out of the box, and it is still to much volume. Look at the smaller can Spech specs on the monarch equipped bikes. There is also a reason Fox and Spech spec'd the smallest air can for the CTD. Additionally, look at Vorsprung, they had to make a special, smaller, Corset specifically for the Enduro.

    The fact is, the Enduro's leverage ratio works best with a small volume can. People are really jacking up their spring curve on the Enduro. Lighter riders may get away with it but would be better off getting revalved to improve damping, not jacking with the spring. Heavier riders will have real trouble with higher volume cans.

    But high volume cans are all the rage right now. They make every bike better, right?........Right?

  23. #2023
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    Look at the Ohlins STX22 it also has a small air can. I really dig that shock. Plus knowing it was made by a top tier suspension company for the enduro specifically tells me it is about as close as you can get to perfection. I am right in that 160-180lb window that suspension companies tune the one size fits all valving for. I have run a few PUSH rear shocks and the ohlins is interchangeable with them in the performance.

  24. #2024
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    Look at the Ohlins STX22 it also has a small air can. I really dig that shock. Plus knowing it was made by a top tier suspension company for the enduro specifically tells me it is about as close as you can get to perfection. I am right in that 160-180lb window that suspension companies tune the one size fits all valving for. I have run a few PUSH rear shocks and the ohlins is interchangeable with them in the performance.
    Where can you buy the Ohlins shock and what is the price?

  25. #2025
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    Quote Originally Posted by projekZERO View Post
    I might be alone, but I run the stock Float CTD on my S-Works Enduro.

    The DB Air was obviously not reliable and left me walking a couple of times. Same with the DB Inline. The RS Debonair is all wrong for the Enduro. The X2 was not available yet, so I purchased a stock Float CTD from Spesh and had Push tune it.

    The Push tuned CTD has been by far the best shock, even better than the DB Air when it was working.

    I will also try the X2 if they make one for the Enduro with the dual position lever.

    I don't know why so many people like the Debonair, the air volume is just too much for the Enduro's high leverage ratio. There is a reason RS puts all 9 reducers in it out of the box, and it is still to much volume. Look at the smaller can Spech specs on the monarch equipped bikes. There is also a reason Fox and Spech spec'd the smallest air can for the CTD. Additionally, look at Vorsprung, they had to make a special, smaller, Corset specifically for the Enduro.

    The fact is, the Enduro's leverage ratio works best with a small volume can. People are really jacking up their spring curve on the Enduro. Lighter riders may get away with it but would be better off getting revalved to improve damping, not jacking with the spring. Heavier riders will have real trouble with higher volume cans.

    But high volume cans are all the rage right now. They make every bike better, right?........Right?
    This guys gets it.

    I run the Monarch Plus with the high volume can (not the Debonair) and I can just get away with it and I'm only 150lbs. How some heavier guys run the Debonair makes no sense to me. They must be running 250psi and 10% sag.

  26. #2026
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    Quote Originally Posted by projekZERO View Post

    The Push tuned CTD has been by far the best shock, even better than the DB Air when it was working.
    This is some really valuable insight! Maybe I will send my shock to Push, since it is here in CO and the shipping time will be quick (don't want to be without a shock and bike for too long).

    Looks like the Push tune will be about $220 and I could pick up a Monarch for around $300. Part of me want to "upgrade" to the Monarch, and then have the Fox float as a back up. Not sure I can get the X2 at cost, so that makes it pretty pricey for a gamble.

    Thanks everyone for the input so far, hope to have the shock sorted out in the next month. Any additional opinions are greatly appreciated!

  27. #2027
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    I have played around a lot both with the Pike and the Monarch Plus Debonair and once set up properly they ride really well. More specifically about the Debonair if you run a little more sag (around 32-35%) and speed up the rebound it seems to perform so much better because the first part of the travel is really active and then the 9 bands provide could mid stroke support and ramp up towards the end of the travel.

    You can find more details here Enduro 29 suspension setup

  28. #2028
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    I agree. Monarch plus debonair is far better than the stock Fox. You need to set it up properly. I think or in my case, I am 200 lb, need 7-8 tokens and 30% sag or a bit more. Then, works well.
    I can see here people not happy with CCDB CS, I thought it was the best option for Enduro 29. Well, now almost in my area along with Ohlins
    Inline definitely doesn't work with this frame. Almost all are broken and replaced for Monarch plus debonair. People aren't satisfied with Specialized because Inline costs more than Monarch plus and has more adjustments.
    For me Inline is a step forward.

  29. #2029
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    My Avy tuned Monarch Debonair is the bees knees . Supple yet supportive. 30% sag in the attack position.

  30. #2030
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tabby View Post
    I agree. Monarch plus debonair is far better than the stock Fox. You need to set it up properly. I think or in my case, I am 200 lb, need 7-8 tokens and 30% sag or a bit more. Then, works well.
    I can see here people not happy with CCDB CS, I thought it was the best option for Enduro 29. Well, now almost in my area along with Ohlins
    Inline definitely doesn't work with this frame. Almost all are broken and replaced for Monarch plus debonair. People aren't satisfied with Specialized because Inline costs more than Monarch plus and has more adjustments.
    For me Inline is a step forward.
    I am really not trying to start a debate, so please just take this as my opinion.

    I also weigh 200 lbs and had a debonair. The shock certainly "feels" plush but the spring is all wrong.

    The fact that 3 posters in a row said they run their debonair at 30% + sag just proves (to me), that your shocks really are not setup correctly.

    The E29s leverage ration is REALLY high in its initial travel. By default the suspension wants to be supple in its initial travel because any input is increased greatly as it is transferred to the shock. The ratio flattens out in the mid stroke before it really falls away at the end of the stroke to provide a lot of bottom out resistance.

    So without the shock in mind you have a suspension that wants to be supple initially, firm up for mid stroke support, then really firm up at the end for bottom out prevention.

    So what you've done is put a large negative air spring which makes the shock VERY easy to initiate its initial travel. So now you have an suspension that has a high leverage ratio that will take a small input and amplify to the shock, and you made your shock not resist any initial travel.

    You've compounded what the suspension is trying to do and now you have nearly no support in the initial travel. Basically you have taken spring out of it to make it supple. That is not always ideal, and in this case, is certainly not ideal.

    That is why you get 30%+ unless you jack up the air pressure and make the rest of the stroke stupid harsh.

    So you end up with what you think is supple in the initial stroke but really is just way under sprung (not under damped). The shock cant even hold you up which is why you have high sag. The mid stroke will also feel like it blows through since you lowered the pressure. In order to combat this you speed up rebound (3rd poster). I know exactly what you guys are feeling and why you set up the debonair the way you did because I went through it all too. What you feel is supple is all wrong. Sure it smooths those rock gardens and braking bumps, but I promise you are loosing grip big time.

    My Push tuned shock runs about 23% sag and is just as supple in the initial stroke as the debonair ever was. That's because I'm not sagged all the way through its initial travel and I am allowing that initial leverage ratio do the work. Getting the shock damped right allows me to run the proper "spring" so I get the support I need from the shock. This is easy to do by setting up the shims right (such as staggering the shims to allow a little bleed on small bumps). The biggest difference I can tell you is my Push tuned fox has gobs more traction because my rear wheel is tracking much better, not just "floating" over everything and blowing through travel to easily.

    There is a fine line between harsh and under damped or under sprung. With the debonair I was easily under sprung and the wheel just floated.

    That's not the kind of "plush" I want.

    I know you guys would be amazed if you actually had a properly sprung and damped shock on those bikes.

  31. #2031
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    Look at the Ohlins STX22 it also has a small air can. I really dig that shock. Plus knowing it was made by a top tier suspension company for the enduro specifically tells me it is about as close as you can get to perfection. I am right in that 160-180lb window that suspension companies tune the one size fits all valving for. I have run a few PUSH rear shocks and the ohlins is interchangeable with them in the performance.
    I am very interested in the STX22. I can get a pretty decent discount on it, but I am hesitant to try it out. I've already spent way to much coin trying to get a shock I like on the E29. I finally found something I am happy with so we will see.

    The X2 has gotten very good feedback and with its similarity to the DB Air all it needs it small improvements and a lot better reliability. Plus I get Fox stuff stupid cheap through our club so the X2 is cheap for me. Like I mentioned before. I will buy it if they add the dual position switch to it.

    On the negative, I have ran into a couple riders who are not happy with their STX22 on their 16 Enduros. Also, my Spech dealer said they are not getting good feedback. I see of a lot of STX22s for sale on Pinkbike and I reached out to a couple of them and they weren't happy with them either and are running X2s.

    I would like to see more feedback on it and hopefully I will get a chance to try one first.

    On the flip side. I have heard really good things about the RXF fork from Ohlins, so it seems like that is definitely more of a hit than the STX22 so far.

  32. #2032
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    Quote Originally Posted by coolatt View Post
    Can anyone with a 1x setup on their Enduro please tell me what brand and offset chainring you are running.

    The lbs sold me a RaceFace NW direct mount with what I believe is a 6mm offset to go on my Sram S2200 cranks. When mounted the teeth are about 1/2mm from contacting the chainstay and the chain rubs the chain guide even though the guide is flush against the frame.

    I think I need a zero offset chainring?
    On my brand new E29 Expert Carbon with the Sram crank is installed a 28t with 6mm offset

  33. #2033
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    One again regarding both the Debonair and the Pike that I have in my Enduro I think that once they are setup properly they perform great. Having said that what is a proper setup of me may not be for you. For example many people also run 20% sag in their Pikes and I run 30%. Does this mean that the Pike isn't good? Same thing about the Debonair. Specialized suggests 30% and I run 32.5-35% sag but honestly I never runned less than that in any of my bikes or my shocks.

    Bottom line I don't understand why people get so crazy about the Enduro leverage rate because I don't think that is extreme at all especially for the 29. My Reign SX had a much more extreme leverage ratio than this and I didn't have any problems as well. And honestly since we have thoroughly analyzed this in the other thread I don't want to repeat myself.

    The beauty of the new gen shocks and forks is that you can adjust them by using rubber bands and tokens so they only thing that you need is time to experiment. Personally it took me more time to set up my Enduro properly but I think that it was time well spent.

    Are there any better shocks than the Debonair? Of course there are but is you spent time understanding how it works and adjust it to your riding style you will be pleasantly surprised.

  34. #2034
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    Quote Originally Posted by projekZERO View Post
    I am very interested in the STX22. I can get a pretty decent discount on it, but I am hesitant to try it out. I've already spent way to much coin trying to get a shock I like on the E29. I finally found something I am happy with so we will see.

    The X2 has gotten very good feedback and with its similarity to the DB Air all it needs it small improvements and a lot better reliability. Plus I get Fox stuff stupid cheap through our club so the X2 is cheap for me. Like I mentioned before. I will buy it if they add the dual position switch to it.

    On the negative, I have ran into a couple riders who are not happy with their STX22 on their 16 Enduros. Also, my Spech dealer said they are not getting good feedback. I see of a lot of STX22s for sale on Pinkbike and I reached out to a couple of them and they weren't happy with them either and are running X2s.

    I would like to see more feedback on it and hopefully I will get a chance to try one first.

    On the flip side. I have heard really good things about the RXF fork from Ohlins, so it seems like that is definitely more of a hit than the STX22 so far.
    Really? The TTX is all over the place, there is exactly zero stx for sale right now on pink bike so its not like they are getting unloaded like the inlines. I would not run a X2 on my enduro without 2 things a smaller air chamber and a climb switch. The FSR are desperate need of both. Maybe the folks you talked with like a pillow bike (which the stx is not). What were their complaints? Were they rider opinions that you value and trust or just random folks? I have tried 4 shocks on my enduro and this is the only one that works closest to right for me. I have let others ride the bike and really like the rear shock as well. But please do not take my word or any of the others on pinkbike that try to sell one and ride one. Its a amazing shock if you ride agressively, if you just putz along and want a pillow shock then it might not be the one for you. But for me pillow shocks blow thru travel and bottom out fast or you use so many bands they become spikey. To each their own.

  35. #2035
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    Just want to commend everyone so far on there great feedback regarding rear shock options. I know I pretty much set us up for a debate by asking: what is the best shock option for the Enduro? This is all going to be opinion that is directed by riding style and terrain, which is hard to duplicate.

    Ahhh, still haven't made up my mind, but you guys are really helping me narrow things down! And at the very least, one thing seems to be decided; I now know my ride can be vastly improved by a custom tune of my current shock if I don't go for a new "upgrade."

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    I'm hoping the enduro makes an appearance in Ireland!

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    Quote Originally Posted by projekZERO View Post

    The Push tuned CTD has been by far the best shock, even better than the DB Air when it was working.
    Just went to the Push website to try and order a tune and looks like they don't work on Evolution series or non boost valve shocks. So I am out of luck.

    What year was your fox float CTD that you where able to get it push tuned?

  38. #2038
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vermonter802 View Post
    I'm hoping the enduro makes an appearance in Ireland!
    I heard rumors too, but Jared Graves said it's not happening.
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueSpruce View Post
    Just went to the Push website to try and order a tune and looks like they don't work on Evolution series or non boost valve shocks. So I am out of luck.

    What year was your fox float CTD that you where able to get it push tuned?
    Avalanche is the only guys I know of that are doing the Evo shocks.

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    Official Specialized Enduro Thread

    Last year in Ireland, Specialized riders were running the Stumpy. Stuff there,isn't too demanding and most riders are using trail-All mountain class bikes. So, I don't think we can see new enduro,or who knows

  41. #2041
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    I have been going through a few forums here and especially noted what gpgalanis, hitechredneck, projekZERO, JCL are saying

    Here is my experience so far

    2016 650b Enduro
    Rider weight 180lb

    Rode the STXAir for about 5-6 rides. I was running 5 clicks of low speed, the second setting of high speed comp, 3 clicks of rebound. I started out with 33% sag measured while seated, about 170psi on my pump. I found the shock had great damping initially, really good grip and controlled, specifically for technical climbing. It felt like it was riding high in the travel as I did not experience any pedal strikes that I previously encountered but I did notice that I used almost all the travel on the climbs. I did not fins responding well on the downhill. I adjusted the rebound faster and slower, backed off the low speed and high speed comp but it just seemed harsh on repetitive bumps and did not feel like it absorbed big hits at all. The bike felt like a 150mm travel frame.

    I then bumped up the pressure to 180psi, about 30% sag seated. The climbing was about the same. I still seemed to be using a lot of travel on techy climbs. It did feel better (but not great) going down, specially when I backed off the low speed comp. Still, it does not feel like a long travel frame. The shock used about the same amount of travel as the lower pressure.

    Lastly I threw on a Monarch Plus Debonair. This shock came off my previous 2014 26" Enduro. I had to have the travel reduced from 63mm to 57mm. I was told that the adjustment included an internal spacer that reduced the air volume a bit, but I haven't opened it up to confirm. Just for the hell of it, and because of these posts I wanted to reduce the air volume as much as possible. I put 8 bands in the positive side. I needed 230psi for 30% sag. Again, for the hell of it I put in an additional 4 bands in the negative side, airing it up I was able to drop down the pressure to 210psi for 30% sag. I then went for a ride.
    Just like when this shock was at full volume on the 26" Enduro , the climbing was just ok, not great. I find the Monarch a bit to out of control on techy climbing. It seems to be not very supple.. or maybe spiky is the word. It also feels like it is sagging more overall compared the STX as I experience a couple pedal strikes, but used less travel overall. On the way down though it felt great. There was really good absorbtion on all sizes of bumps and it felt very supportive. I never came close to using all the travel, I bet there was 15mm of stroke left. It seemed to work in the middle of it's travel most of the time.The unused travel doesn't bother me if the used travel is supporting me well.

    Next I am going to remove a few bands on the positive side and see how it feels.


    I'd like to know how you guys with the STX Air have it set up. I would really like the STX to perform on the downhill the way the Monarch did the other day. I'm wondering if I should increase the pressure on the STX even more or look for a volume reducer to ramp it up midstroke and endstroke.

    JCL Where did you pick up the smaller monarch air can?

  42. #2042
    JCL
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    From my local shop.

    Monarch Plus HV 216mm x 57mm Aircan. It comes without a decal BTW.

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    Quote Originally Posted by softbatch View Post
    Avalanche is the only guys I know of that are doing the Evo shocks.
    Not true at all.

    Push does do evolution series shocks and forks, they just haven't updated the website. It involves replacing the internals out completely so you are left with essentially a factory series damper.

    So far, I am the only person who has had the stock evolution series shock "Pushed" for the E29. This is according to Matt, who did my tune. I am having a FOX 36 fork tuned now so I asked Matt again.

    I also have a kashima shock body on mine. Many people don't know this, but fox made a limited number of kashima shock bodies for the enduro strut mount. Fox never made an entire shock except the X2. You can buy a Float X or regular Float and then buy the kashima shock body and build your own shock. The shock body retails for $50. They only have 6 or 7 left when I bought mine and they said they will not be making any more of them. This is how you see a few Float X's on E29s

    FYI, the stock evo shock is a custom air sleeve. Fox doesn't normally make a standard sleeve (SV) in the 8.5X2.50 length. You will have to buy either a XV or XL sleeve (XL sleeve only for Float X) if you don't buy the stock shock from Specialized. If you buy the XL sleeve you will need to notch the larger eyelet as it may interfere with the enduro's frame. This is the reason Fox never made a float series shock for our bike. You can build a regular float with a XV sleeve and Regular eyelet without clearance issues.

    I can't remember the full part number for the shock body, but call Fox and they will get it for you. It is 207-10-XXX (can't remember the last 3 digits).

  44. #2044
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    It's just their opinion to me at this point. I have no opinion myself. I didn't know these riders or their skill level in evaluating a shock. I found 4 sold on Pinkbike and contacted all of them -Two responded.

    I am still very interested in trying the STX22, I just want to try it first before I commit. I also want to try the X2.

    Now that I am happy with my Push tuned Float. I want to ride these shocks before I commit.

  45. #2045
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlueSpruce View Post
    Just went to the Push website to try and order a tune and looks like they don't work on Evolution series or non boost valve shocks. So I am out of luck.

    What year was your fox float CTD that you where able to get it push tuned?
    They do work on the evolution shocks, they just haven't updated the website. You will have to contact them via phone or email. They always answer the phone.

    Please see my more detailed post above.

  46. #2046
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    Someone had talked about pressfit BB's dying and how the Enduro is a bit of a water trap , so I pulled my chain off and noticed that my cranks were very fast to stop spinning. Popped them off and sure enough, I had some pooh brown looking bearings. Stuffed a little fresh grease in there and reassembled, then ordered a new bottom bracket from Shockcraft.co.nz
    I ordered the stainless ball bearing option, with the storm drains. On my 2014 E26, there is nowhere for the water to go. There's no drain hole in my BB shell, and there's plenty of places for it to get in, headset, seat tube and even the top tube as it's got a large hole for a stealth post I guess (though mine runs in front of the BB).
    I'll pull the old bearings apart shortly for a mosey, but holy hell, the cranks spin fast now. Makes me wonder what the ceramic version would be like.
    New BB Shockcraft by Chazz Michael Michaels, on Flickr

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    New question here. 27.5+ tires on E29 thoughts?

    This guy seems to love 27.5+ on an E29, more on that here. These guys too.

    The first guy says 3" won't fit but a 2.8" WTB Trailblazer fits fine. I'm curious which plus tires people have tried on the E29, what rim widths, and overall pros/cons about this setup. Thanks!

  48. #2048
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    Interesting comments on the shock options and experiences. I have a 2011 Sworks with the stock RP23. Can't say that I can fault it - I use all the travel quite regularly but only one harsh bottom out so far. Added a little more air ( about 170psi) and it rides a tad higher and feels better pedaling uphill. I use the pedal position for climbing and the open setting with 2 on compression damping.

    My main gripe with the bike is the tapping noise I get when pedaling. I have checked headset, BB, pedals, crank, chainring bolts and suspension pivot tightness. All check out fine. Frame is old stock bought new less than a year ago. Pivots are quiet when the suspension is cycled with the shock unbolted. Noise only happens when pedaling as opposed to standing descents or just bouncing on the suspension. The noise starts out softly but gets worse as the ride progresses.

    Any ideas?

  49. #2049
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    Saddle?

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    Nobby Nic 2.8 fits no problem. You can fit 3.0 if you get creative or spend $$$$

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    Quote Originally Posted by jpec29 View Post
    Nobby Nic 2.8 fits no problem. You can fit 3.0 if you get creative or spend $$$$
    Thanks - does NN 2.8 fit with a wide rim like WTB Scraper (45mm ID)? Also, what kind of creative? I'm having a hard time imagining what you could change besides the fork, which means I'm not very creative!

  52. #2052
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    I had a similar issue. Turned out to be the bold that connects the wishbone to the shock needed tightening, possibly some grease? I donít know I insisted the shop fix it - only took all day itís a new bike with 4 rides on it. (÷hlins STX22)
    Quote Originally Posted by headshot View Post
    Interesting comments on the shock options and experiences. I have a 2011 Sworks with the stock RP23. Can't say that I can fault it - I use all the travel quite regularly but only one harsh bottom out so far. Added a little more air ( about 170psi) and it rides a tad higher and feels better pedaling uphill. I use the pedal position for climbing and the open setting with 2 on compression damping.

    My main gripe with the bike is the tapping noise I get when pedaling. I have checked headset, BB, pedals, crank, chainring bolts and suspension pivot tightness. All check out fine. Frame is old stock bought new less than a year ago. Pivots are quiet when the suspension is cycled with the shock unbolted. Noise only happens when pedaling as opposed to standing descents or just bouncing on the suspension. The noise starts out softly but gets worse as the ride progresses.

    Any ideas?

  53. #2053
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    I can't believe how murky the details on the 2017 are... I'm honestly starting to question whether an all-new bike will be dropping this year or not. One of the bike shops I called told me the only thing they could get out of their rep was "we're looking at July", which would put it much more in line with regular model-year releases.
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  54. #2054
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    Quote Originally Posted by barcolounger View Post
    Thanks - does NN 2.8 fit with a wide rim like WTB Scraper (45mm ID)? Also, what kind of creative? I'm having a hard time imagining what you could change besides the fork, which means I'm not very creative!
    Yes I used the I45 scrapers with my setup, worked great but heavy. A boosted fork or fox 36 29er will clear a 3.0. You can also squeeze in a boosted rim in the rear to with some trimming

  55. #2055
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billy Mumphry View Post
    I can't believe how murky the details on the 2017 are... I'm honestly starting to question whether an all-new bike will be dropping this year or not. One of the bike shops I called told me the only thing they could get out of their rep was "we're looking at July", which would put it much more in line with regular model-year releases.
    July is a month too early.

  56. #2056
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    Quote Originally Posted by jpec29 View Post
    Yes I used the I45 scrapers with my setup, worked great but heavy. A boosted fork or fox 36 29er will clear a 3.0. You can also squeeze in a boosted rim in the rear to with some trimming

    Trimming?????

  57. #2057
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    Good evening everyone,

    First of all, some great bikes in this thread and lots of good reading. I have a 2013 Enduro Evo and am looking to upgrade my rear shock and fork. Currently I have the Xfusion setup that came stock on the bike. Just looking to see if anyone of you have any good recommendations. I've been looking at the Fox DHX in 8.5 x 2.5 rear shocks and have seen some good prices on the World Wide Web. Just not sure what size fork would work though. Any help or suggestions would be great.

  58. #2058
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    When you say "the Xfusion setup that came stock on the bike", that makes me wonder whether you have the 2012 or the 2013 Enduro Evo, because the 2012 had Xfusion shock/fork stock, while the 2013 had an Xfusion fork, but a Fox Van R shock.

    2012 Enduro Evo:
    https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bi...nduroevo/37235

    2013 Enduro Evo:
    https://www.specialized.com/us/en/bi...nduroevo/37980

    They are vastly different bikes, with different travel among other things. If you really do have the 2013 model, I'd recommend the Ohlins TTX shock (you can also get a CCDB for it), and find a 2015 Fox Van 180 on ebay. That is exactly what I'm running and it kicks ass.

    There is also a company making replacement shock yokes for various Enduro models now, which allows you to run almost any shock instead of just the ones with that are available with the proprietary Specialized yoke mount. Here's the one for the 2013 Enduro Evo:
    2013-2014 Enduro EVO 26" | BikeYoke

    You're also in luck if you do have the 2012 Enduro Evo:
    2011-2012 ENDURO EVO 26" | BikeYoke

  59. #2059
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    Sorry about that, it is a 2012 Enduro Evo. Just not sure the sizes on the shock or fork. I thought it was a 8.5 x 2.5 rear shock and a 20mm tapered 170mm fork.

  60. #2060
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    Hi,
    does anybody knows which is the RAL code of the pearled white color used for the Enduro Expert 2015?

    https://www.specialized.com/it/it/bi...carbon29/65632

  61. #2061
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    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-dsc_0010.jpg




    Actually using my 2004 Enduro ...

  62. #2062
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    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-dsc_0009.jpg

    Another pic

  63. #2063
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    Ended up ordering a Fox 36 Van tapered 180mm travel with 20mm axle fork and a Fox DHX RC4 Coil in 8.5 x 2.5 with a 450lb Spring. Am I going to have a hard time switch out the shock with the yoke?

  64. #2064
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    The 180 fork will be 10 mm longer than your stock fork, so will slacken the geometry a little. I had that 2012 Evo for a while and rode it with a 180 fork and it was fine. Makes it a little better on the downhills, climbing maybe suffers a little but I didn't notice it.

    The yoke is a little bit of a pain in the ass to take off, but not horrible. They made it waaay easier in the 2013 models. But you'll figure it out. I can't remember all the details, but I think it may be easier to take the entire S-link (the thing the yoke connects to) off the bike when replacing the shock, at least for figuring out how it all goes together etc.

  65. #2065
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    Also, not sure if that shock would work! The stock one (at least on the website) says it is 8.5 x 2.125. Waay back in this thread I think there were some guys that put a different stroke shock in that frame but may have had to add a spacer to keep it from bottoming out. You'll have to try it w/o on the spring on, and compress it all the way and see if there is clearance (tire might hit the seat tube etc). In general the shocks on Spec bikes sometimes have weird stroke lengths, so it's usually best to call them directly (or see your dealer) for replacement shock options.

    Anyway, it might work. And if it does, you'll have more travel in the rear than stock.

  66. #2066
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    Quote Originally Posted by traynorm1 View Post
    Ended up ordering a Fox 36 Van tapered 180mm travel with 20mm axle fork and a Fox DHX RC4 Coil in 8.5 x 2.5 with a 450lb Spring. Am I going to have a hard time switch out the shock with the yoke?
    I had a 2012 Enduro Pro frame and mod'ed to use a spring. I had a Marzocchi Roco which I can't remember length. I didn't change the yoke, but machined the shock using the below guide. I know is in spanish but you'll figure it out.

    http://www.rivasmtb.com/MANUAL%20END...Javi_Rivas.pdf

    As for riding a 180 mm fork, I used one too and as mentioned before, you'll get some front wheel wandering when climbing but it will kill in the downhill.

    I am on a 2014 Enduro Expert Evo now with Ohlins TTX22M and loving it! I still have the 180 mm fork on this bike, but somehow the geometry allows you to climb without the front wheel wander.

  67. #2067
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    Ohlins STX22 vs. Fox Float X2

    I am looking for a rear shock for my new '16 Enduro comp 650b, and lately I've seen a number of riders sporting the new Float X2 on their Enduros. But I am a bit confused by such comments:

    Quote Originally Posted by projekZERO View Post
    I will also try the X2 if they make one for the Enduro with the dual position lever.

    I don't know why so many people like the Debonair, the air volume is just too much for the Enduro's high leverage ratio. There is a reason RS puts all 9 reducers in it out of the box, and it is still to much volume. Look at the smaller can Spech specs on the monarch equipped bikes. There is also a reason Fox and Spech spec'd the smallest air can for the CTD. Additionally, look at Vorsprung, they had to make a special, smaller, Corset specifically for the Enduro.

    The fact is, the Enduro's leverage ratio works best with a small volume can. People are really jacking up their spring curve on the Enduro. Lighter riders may get away with it but would be better off getting revalved to improve damping, not jacking with the spring. Heavier riders will have real trouble with higher volume cans.

    But high volume cans are all the rage right now. They make every bike better, right?........Right?
    Quote Originally Posted by JCL View Post
    This guys gets it.

    I run the Monarch Plus with the high volume can (not the Debonair) and I can just get away with it and I'm only 150lbs. How some heavier guys run the Debonair makes no sense to me. They must be running 250psi and 10% sag.
    Quote Originally Posted by projekZERO View Post
    I am really not trying to start a debate, so please just take this as my opinion.

    I also weigh 200 lbs and had a debonair. The shock certainly "feels" plush but the spring is all wrong.

    The fact that 3 posters in a row said they run their debonair at 30% + sag just proves (to me), that your shocks really are not setup correctly.

    The E29s leverage ration is REALLY high in its initial travel. By default the suspension wants to be supple in its initial travel because any input is increased greatly as it is transferred to the shock. The ratio flattens out in the mid stroke before it really falls away at the end of the stroke to provide a lot of bottom out resistance.

    So without the shock in mind you have a suspension that wants to be supple initially, firm up for mid stroke support, then really firm up at the end for bottom out prevention.

    So what you've done is put a large negative air spring which makes the shock VERY easy to initiate its initial travel. So now you have an suspension that has a high leverage ratio that will take a small input and amplify to the shock, and you made your shock not resist any initial travel.

    You've compounded what the suspension is trying to do and now you have nearly no support in the initial travel. Basically you have taken spring out of it to make it supple. That is not always ideal, and in this case, is certainly not ideal.

    That is why you get 30%+ unless you jack up the air pressure and make the rest of the stroke stupid harsh.

    So you end up with what you think is supple in the initial stroke but really is just way under sprung (not under damped). The shock cant even hold you up which is why you have high sag. The mid stroke will also feel like it blows through since you lowered the pressure. In order to combat this you speed up rebound (3rd poster). I know exactly what you guys are feeling and why you set up the debonair the way you did because I went through it all too. What you feel is supple is all wrong. Sure it smooths those rock gardens and braking bumps, but I promise you are loosing grip big time.

    My Push tuned shock runs about 23% sag and is just as supple in the initial stroke as the debonair ever was. That's because I'm not sagged all the way through its initial travel and I am allowing that initial leverage ratio do the work. Getting the shock damped right allows me to run the proper "spring" so I get the support I need from the shock. This is easy to do by setting up the shims right (such as staggering the shims to allow a little bleed on small bumps). The biggest difference I can tell you is my Push tuned fox has gobs more traction because my rear wheel is tracking much better, not just "floating" over everything and blowing through travel to easily.

    There is a fine line between harsh and under damped or under sprung. With the debonair I was easily under sprung and the wheel just floated.

    That's not the kind of "plush" I want.

    I know you guys would be amazed if you actually had a properly sprung and damped shock on those bikes.
    It would seem that the ideal air shock for the enduro will be a low volume can like the STX22, so using the large volume Float X2 would seem counter-intuitive to what users are trying to achieve; since the large volume air can of the X2 will have a similar effect to the debonair large air can, also as discussed above and really undersprung the bike, needing lots of volume spacers and high psi, to work properly on the FSR suspension.
    So what is really the benefit of using the X2 instead of the STX22?
    Would the Float X2 twin tube design be that much better than the STX22 that was developed specifically for the Enduro?
    What are the pros and cons in choosing either? Or the Ohlins STX22, should be a no brainer and the obvious choice?
    @ProjekZERO, @JCL, given the above comments, I suppose between those two, your choice would be the STX22?
    Last edited by tp806; 05-30-2016 at 03:52 PM.

  68. #2068
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    I believe the positive volume of an X2 isn't as large as the Debonair so it should be more progressive. That said, I haven't ridden either it or the STX22.

    Bottomline is the E29 was designed around a 'normal' volume shock, not a Debonair and the leverage rate graph confirms that.

  69. #2069
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    Wasn't the Cane Creek DB air a large volume shock? I recall the reviews for it being glowing.
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  70. #2070
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    I have the new ohlins air shock on my endure and cannot give it enough praise. Some will say it is is not very small bump sensitive but I find it to be the opposite and feels quite plush. Is it a coil spring? No, but it does a damn fine job at pretending it is. Works great, feels great, and does not just blow though the mid stroke travel, whih seems to be the biggest complaint about the enduros and stumpys when riding other shocks hints the massive amount of volume spacers being used.

  71. #2071
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    Quote Originally Posted by tp806 View Post
    I am looking for a rear shock for my new '16 Enduro comp 650b, and lately I've seen a number of riders sporting the new Float X2 on their Enduros. But I am a bit confused by such comments:
    The Enduro linkage is overall linear and flat which does call for a progressive shock.

    The Monarch Debonair is not the best spring setup for the bike but can be tuned to work just as fine or better as any of the other shocks via the bands and internal shim stack's tune-ability if you're willing to put in the work or money.

    On a Horst link bike sag is a rider's choice, it is not based off of linkage dynamics. Anywhere between 20 to 30 % is fine.

    If what JCL and ProjekZERO are saying were true then the Push ELEVENSIX would suck.

    The most externally tune-able, consistent (Piggyback) and reliable (Not Cane Creek) factory shock is probably going to be the Fox X2 ($600).

    The most inexpensive option for you is going to be getting your Fox Float Pushed or Avyed and your shock will be out of the box setup for you and have the internals better than a Monarch RT3 or Fox Float Factory. (~$230)

    If I had to do it over again I would probably put an Avy Chubie ($629 no switch) or Push 11-6 ($1200) on my E29. Mainly because they could be rebuilt for any bike I purchased later.

    What I did do is Monarch Plus RC3 with Avalanche tune and its great no matter what ProjekZERO says.

  72. #2072
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    Quote Originally Posted by softbatch View Post
    The Enduro linkage is overall linear and flat which does call for a progressive shock.

    The Monarch Debonair is not the best spring setup for the bike but can be tuned to work just as fine or better as any of the other shocks via the bands and internal shim stack's tune-ability if you're willing to put in the work or money.

    On a Horst link bike sag is a rider's choice, it is not based off of linkage dynamics. Anywhere between 20 to 30 % is fine.

    If what JCL and ProjekZERO are saying were true then the Push ELEVENSIX would suck.

    The most externally tune-able, consistent (Piggyback) and reliable (Not Cane Creek) factory shock is probably going to be the Fox X2 ($600).

    The most inexpensive option for you is going to be getting your Fox Float Pushed or Avyed and your shock will be out of the box setup for you and have the internals better than a Monarch RT3 or Fox Float Factory. (~$230)

    If I had to do it over again I would probably put an Avy Chubie ($629 no switch) or Push 11-6 ($1200) on my E29. Mainly because they could be rebuilt for any bike I purchased later.

    What I did do is Monarch Plus RC3 with Avalanche tune and its great no matter what ProjekZERO says.
    These are some valid points indeed Softbatch, so I will have to find a Float X2 equipped enduro to test-ride to be sure.
    Although I am wondering how much of a difference (for a weekend warrior sort of speak) having also adjustable low speed rebound would make, in selecting the large air can Float X2 instead of the Ohlins STX22, with its more appropriate tune?

    The comments though, of the other posters I mentioned and mine, are about the most suitable rear air shock for the Enduro 650b, not for coil shock.
    Again also in this case, the Ohlins TTX22M is on par (if not better) than the Avy and 11-6 shocks (albeit not being rebuildable as the PUSH one to use in other frames).

    Coil shocks will always have the edge when the going gets rough in high speed successive impacts, regardless what the marketing speak is trying to convince us otherwise, that air shocks are just as good. They will never be as good as coil. There are compromises.
    It is just physics and engineering (math), but with a weight penalty to get that high performance and grip.
    Keep the views on these two air shock coming guys, very informative thread indeed.

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    These images are fakes based on fakes.
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  75. #2075
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    I have the new ohlins air shock on my endure and cannot give it enough praise. Some will say it is is not very small bump sensitive but I find it to be the opposite and feels quite plush. Is it a coil spring? No, but it does a damn fine job at pretending it is. Works great, feels great, and does not just blow though the mid stroke travel, whih seems to be the biggest complaint about the enduros and stumpys when riding other shocks hints the massive amount of volume spacers being used.

    I'm not sure if I've asked you this before but what sag are you running on your STX? I set mine up with 17mm, 30% sag on a 650B Enduro. I have found that it does seem to blow through the midstroke fairly easily and doesn't quite ramp up as I prefer. I am going to try a bit more pressure when I put it back on.

  76. #2076
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    I ran 17mm for a while but ran the switch in the middle position (more high speed compression only). So it ramped up nicely. I started looking for a bit better pedaling and went to 13mm and run it in the "open" position almost all the tine except on steep smooth climbs. I still feels very supple I'm open mode but barley moves (bobs) in full closed mode on the gold switch (adds low and high speed compression) I did run it in the middle setting while making some high speed runs on portal and ahab in moab and it felt great! So I thibk I will run it like this for a while. I am running 2 clicks of low speed compression (blue knob) from full open as well. Rebound is 3 out from full slow.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tp806 View Post
    @ProjekZERO, @JCL, given the above comments, I suppose between those two, your choice would be the STX22?
    The DB Air and X2 are not as high of a volume as you think. Also, it is not just a function of the positive air chamber, but the negative air chamber as well. Rather it is the ratio.

    The X2 with the right amount of volume spacer should be appropriate. I had my DB air working pretty well, it just wasn't reliable. It could have used more mid travel support though.

    I have no experience with the STX so I can't comment. Would love to ride one.

    I was speaking to Darren at Push yesterday. He really has me thinking hard about an elevensix for my Enduro.

    Right now I am riding a pushed tune fox float CTD with factory internals and a kashima shock body. I am really digging it which is why I am struggling to drop the coin on the elevensix.

    Also as far as forks go. I am currently running a Fox 36 RC2 Float. It replaced the Pike that came on my S-Works. I will be getting the 36 Push tuned in the very near future.

    What I can tell you is the Pike has better small bump compliance, the 36 has better mid stroke support. The 36 also has a stiffer chassis. The stock tune on the 36 is very restrictive on the 36 (16 model), I run both compression adjustments wide open. Even then I run slightly lower pressures than what I should for my 200 lb weight. Darren even confirmed i should run the setting wide open as the fork isn't tuned well.

    Darren also told me flat out that the 36, even when tuned, will not quite match the Pike's small bump sensitivity. He knows as he rides both himself. The 36 will outperform the Pike everywhere else.

    Despite this, even with the stock tune, I am much more confident and faster with the 36. I only feel the harshness when going slow on trail rides. The minute you start pushing even a little bit, the 36 seems to come alive and just has this super planted feel. Even braking bumps and rooted sections feel better at speed on the 36. Steep stuff is also easier on the 36 since it resists diving better.

    With the tune I should get to close to the Pike in small bump stuff.

    Another think to note. The 36 is a 51mm offset fork. The geometry change made a quite obvious difference in handling to the E29. slow speed handing increased greatly as did moderate speed stuff. I feel no negative effect at all. Specialized really should have spec'd the bike with a 51mm Offset fork from the beginning IMHO.

    I also run an offset bushing and the 36 has a shorter axle to crown, both of which lowered my bottom bracket a touch. That may also have improved the handling.

    Sorry, one more thing I want to point out. When the E29 first came out as a late 13 model year. Specialized said the HA was 67 Degrees. They later changed the info to 67.5.

    I used our ATOS machine and measured my 14, as well as a friends 14 S-works. They were both 67 degrees almost exactly when static.

    I measured mine after the offset bushing and it was 66.5, just as the bushing was supposed to change it. I measured it again after the 36 and now it is 66.7 degrees.

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    Useful info for sure.

    Another question from my side. Can I put a 203 disc in the rear? Are there any frame limitations?

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    I would like to thank JimW from this thread and Chris and Mike at "The Vault" bike shop in Las Vegas for helping get my 2012 Enduro Evo squared away. I ended up replacing the X-fusion fork and shock with a Fox 36 180mm Van and a Fox DHX RC4 in 8.5 x2.5 with a 450lb spring. Bike is running great and the suspension feels and rides a lot better to me. Next is just waiting for my Shimano Zee group set and Zee Brakes from chain reaction cycles.

  80. #2080
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    Shimano Zee groupset and brakes are getting installed and am excited to get it back. Just wondering now, what's the widest size tire I could install on my 2012 Enduro Evo? I'm hoping to add a set of 26 x 2.5 Maxxis High Rollers or Minions. Any suggestions? Thx

  81. #2081
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    Hope

    I am swapping tires now due to the wet season starting in Mexico. I will put a Maxxis Minion DHF 2.35 in the front, and move my Schwalbe Nobby Nic to the rear and test. If the Nobby Nic does not run well with mud I will go for the Maxxis High Roller II in the rear.

    As far as the 2.5 version of the Maxxis Minion DHF I believe will be too much of a drag when going up (I need to pedal about 40 minutes in very steep single track to reach the "fun point"). Certainly the 2.5 will be awesome going down, but I believe the 2.35 can perform as good.

    It is the perennial compromise between rolling resistance and grip.

  82. #2082
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    I ran 17mm for a while but ran the switch in the middle position (more high speed compression only). So it ramped up nicely. I started looking for a bit better pedaling and went to 13mm and run it in the "open" position almost all the tine except on steep smooth climbs. I still feels very supple I'm open mode but barley moves (bobs) in full closed mode on the gold switch (adds low and high speed compression) I did run it in the middle setting while making some high speed runs on portal and ahab in moab and it felt great! So I thibk I will run it like this for a while. I am running 2 clicks of low speed compression (blue knob) from full open as well. Rebound is 3 out from full slow.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
    Thanks for the info. I've reinstalled the STX and run a bit more pressure/less sag, about 15mm. It feels pretty good, similar to the Monarch I was messing around with using the volume spacers. It is especially better for climbing with a steeper head/seat angle. Also running very little compression seems to smooth things out a bit, 2 clicks low speed, no high speed (first position).

  83. #2083
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    Does anyone know what the "serial/article number" is for the mech hanger for a 2016 Enduro Comp?

  84. #2084
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    This happened:
    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-img_2076.jpg

  85. #2085
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    Quote Originally Posted by alker View Post
    Does anyone know what the "serial/article number" is for the mech hanger for a 2016 Enduro Comp?
    9892-4040
    for the rear Mech Hanger, just got one yesterday, from local Greek Specialized distributor.

  86. #2086
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    Quote Originally Posted by tp806 View Post
    9892-4040
    for the rear Mech Hanger, just got one yesterday, from local Greek Specialized distributor.
    Ok, thanks!

  87. #2087
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonathanM View Post
    This happened:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Nice choice in shocks. My buddy has one and loves it. I want one but I need to loose another 5 lbs to be clear of the 190lb. mark with a pack on. In the mean time my ohlins air is doing a amazing job.

  88. #2088
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonathanM View Post
    This happened:
    How many hours on the 11/6? I'm guessing that's quite a large frame. I'd love to do a direct comparison between the 11/6 and TTX.

  89. #2089
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard View Post
    How many hours on the 11/6? I'm guessing that's quite a large frame. I'd love to do a direct comparison between the 11/6 and TTX.
    I got to demo an 11/6 on my bike in Fruita. It was really good. I was riding with other people so I didn't have time to get it 100% set but the damping was amazing for control and no wallow. I couldn't swing the $1200 but it got me to buy an TTX for less than half. Unfortunately it's not in the same ball park for me. Maybe in higher speed chunk the TTX is close but the 11/6 felt much more precise. It didn't compress and then recover, it just compressed the right amount and you didn't notice it the way suspension should be. If I don't sell my E29 for a Switchblade or 17 Enduro I'll buy an 11/6 for next year.
    2 wheels

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    ÷hlins reveals beefier RXF 36 forks


  91. #2091
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    Well I guess we know what's going to be on the front of the next Enduro, anyway. That's a Stumpy in the pictures, right?
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  92. #2092
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    Quote Originally Posted by Billy Mumphry View Post
    Well I guess we know what's going to be on the front of the next Enduro, anyway. That's a Stumpy in the pictures, right?
    Probably only the s-works and expert levels

  93. #2093
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    Quote Originally Posted by bhsavery View Post
    Probably only the s-works and expert levels
    Yeah definitely... That makes sense.
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  94. #2094
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    Has anyone upgraded the 125mm Command Post to something with more drop, 150mm or even 170mm? I have a 2015 Enduro Elite, and for my long legs the 125mm is a bit weak. Now looking at either the new Fox Transfer in 150mm or the RockShox Reverb 170mm.

    About the Reverb I am wondering about two things: first, will the Stealth version with its larger-diameter tube work with the internal routing of the Enduro frame? And does anyone know how far the post can go into the Enduro seatpost (frame size Medium)? When measuring from the outside, the 480mm seem to be OK for my seat post height, but it is hard to tell exactly from the outside how far the post can go in.

    Thanks!

    Cheers, Robert

  95. #2095
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    Quote Originally Posted by pabloquintana View Post
    I am swapping tires now due to the wet season starting in Mexico. I will put a Maxxis Minion DHF 2.35 in the front, and move my Schwalbe Nobby Nic to the rear and test.
    I just switched from 2.3" Butcher/Purgatory to a 2.5" Shorty/Minion DHF combo. Don't feel much difference when pedaling up, but the more in grip is noticeable when going doing, especially in the wet and also on steep, loose and dry underground.

    Regards, Robert

  96. #2096
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    ^^^ This.

    Quote Originally Posted by pabloquintana View Post
    I am swapping tires now due to the wet season starting in Mexico. I will put a Maxxis Minion DHF 2.35 in the front, and move my Schwalbe Nobby Nic to the rear and test. If the Nobby Nic does not run well with mud I will go for the Maxxis High Roller II in the rear.

    As far as the 2.5 version of the Maxxis Minion DHF I believe will be too much of a drag when going up (I need to pedal about 40 minutes in very steep single track to reach the "fun point"). Certainly the 2.5 will be awesome going down, but I believe the 2.35 can perform as good.

    It is the perennial compromise between rolling resistance and grip.
    DHF clogs much faster than the Shorty in the wet. For soft ground and wet terrain, the Shorty is a great tire that's not completely lost on hardpack. Especially the 2.5 has a lot of traction. Review here: Review | Maxxis Shorty 2.3 and 2.5 | Ride Report - WheelSizeAgnostic

    I don't think you'll notice a big difference between 2.3 and 2.5 on the front (I think the wider tire is worth it on the front).

    For the rear, you might want to try the DHR II, comes in 2.3 and 2.4.

    The Maxxis tires' knob size increases with the tire size, so the 2.4 DHR II is not only wider, but also has a meatier profile. For the rear, Dual Compound works best.

  97. #2097
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    Quote Originally Posted by the-ninth View Post
    About the Reverb I am wondering about two things: first, will the Stealth version with its larger-diameter tube work with the internal routing of the Enduro frame?
    Not without some filing - the hole is very tight (at least on carbon frame).
    And to fit thicker tube into the frame flush (not sticking out perpendicularly) you will have to be creative - and may be increase the hole even more. I ordered Reverb 170 and returned it back after dry fitting.
    I am on the waiting list for 200mm 9point8 (my inseam is 38 inches )

  98. #2098
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    Quote Originally Posted by sergio8691 View Post
    I am on the waiting list for 200mm 9point8 (my inseam is 38 inches )
    The 9point8 Fall Line looks good to, I read they are also planning a 175mm version! How did you get on tha waiting list? I don't see the 175mm or 200mm versions on their website. The 175mm would be perfect for me, not sure though if I could fit it in the Medium frame ...

    Regards, Robert

  99. #2099
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    Quote Originally Posted by the-ninth View Post
    I just switched from 2.3" Butcher/Purgatory to a 2.5" Shorty/Minion DHF combo. Don't feel much difference when pedaling up, but the more in grip is noticeable when going doing, especially in the wet and also on steep, loose and dry underground.

    Regards, Robert
    I have been running a 2.3 dhr2 3c on the rear and a Shorty 2.3 3c on the front. For anything loose and steep this is a great combo. Even on hard pack and loose over hard I am surprised by the shorty on how well. It does.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk

  100. #2100
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    Quote Originally Posted by the-ninth View Post
    The 9point8 Fall Line looks good to, I read they are also planning a 175mm version! How did you get on tha waiting list? I don't see the 175mm or 200mm versions on their website. The 175mm would be perfect for me, not sure though if I could fit it in the Medium frame ...

    Regards, Robert
    Yeah, their website is tricky. You go to long stroke page (https://www.9point8.ca/index.php?rou...product_id=100), try to buy what you want and choose wait list payment option (or something like that).

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