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  1. #1401
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    Too much offset means your frame is too small, these days with 35mm stems available it's ok to go with that slightly larger frame, but offset still can "fix' a situation where something is too small, it's just not nearly as hard/bad to go to a larger frame size now. That said, the command post has offset. It's what I use.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  2. #1402
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    Quote Originally Posted by ivanho View Post
    Attachment 990377

    SO heres mine. I got it used and it came with a Debonair rear. However I can't get the dang thing to feel good. I'm running 230psi and I weigh 215. Even with the compression switch in the middle position it bottoms out way too easily. When I pump it through berms it blows so deep into its travel at first I thought the tire was folding over, and on a 5 foot drop to flat it bottom way hard and bucked me over the bars. Any ideas?
    The 30-40psi above body weight does appear to be the ticket, running a Monarch + on my enduro now for a few weeks (actually getting good rides for a few weeks that is, I've had it over winter). At your weight though, you are approaching the max of what any stock tune is going to support, so just keep that in mind. A custom tune by Avalanche would probably be a good idea. I find mine has plenty of mid-stroke support in the middle setting, does not blow through travel, resists g-outs and drops well, etc. I'm 170 though.
    "It's only when you stand over it, you know, when you physically stand over the bike, that then you say 'hey, I don't have much stand over height', you know"-T. Ellsworth

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  3. #1403
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jayem View Post
    Too much offset means your frame is too small, these days with 35mm stems available it's ok to go with that slightly larger frame, but offset still can "fix' a situation where something is too small, it's just not nearly as hard/bad to go to a larger frame size now. That said, the command post has offset. It's what I use.
    I know this but if I went with the XL frame then the seat tube would have been too high to use any dropper at all. I think that the reason the offset is needed and comes with all stock Speci seat posts is the rather steep seat angle (75) vs other more slack ones. And I think that this happens because of the wagon wheels and the 155 travel that requires more clearance.

    Anyway I think that I don't have many options available at this point. It has to be either a Command IR or a KS Dropzone or Eten.

  4. #1404
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    I'm about 5'11 1/2" w 33" inseam and I have my saddle as forward as it will go.. Feel like I need a non-offset post..


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  5. #1405
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    That's strange. We have the same dimensions but I have my saddle like below.



    And the length from the BB to the top of the saddle is 74cm.

  6. #1406
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    Hmm I dunno.. Maybe you got some long femurs?
    I've ran a command post on my last 3 bikes and never had any issues.. The newest version has reversible rail clamps so you can get additional offset if needed..


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  7. #1407
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    This seems to be best option for me. Thank you for the feedback.

  8. #1408
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    Curtis Keene is 6ft and used a Large with a Reverb and seat pushed all the way forward with a 40mm stem.

    http://www.sicklines.com/wp-content/...4/PZ1A2866.jpg

  9. #1409
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    I suppose that I have to go back and check again my body position on the bike.

  10. #1410
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    I suppose that I have to go back and check again my body position on the bike.
    What's your stem length? Are you sure you got a Large and not a Medium?

  11. #1411
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    Yes for sure. The seat tube is 47cm as in the official site and I have a 60 stem 780 bars combo but in order to get the knee over axle position I need to have my seat quite back.

    I will try it again but I think that I can't get the proper riding position without the offset.

    The thing is that if you measure the effective top tube without the offset then it is only 60 instead of the stated 61.7. So if you compare this with the 75 seat angle then I don't think that it is strange that I need the offset.

    As of the XL I was thinking about it but with the 52 seat tube it would have been almost impossible to fit a dropper. Maybe just a 100mm but still it would exactly on the limit of the colar.

  12. #1412
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    I ran a 50mm stem last year on my E29 and felt like a 40 would have been better.. However I'm running a 40 on my 650b this year and feel like I may need to swap it out for a 50.. heh
    Been messing around with the bar height and so far nothing feels "normal",
    I may have to just set it somewhere and try to get used to it.. I've got two spacers under the 40mm Syntace stem currently, thinking of either flipping the stem over or dropping down another spacer.. Feels like the front tire could be weighted a little more on some loose/sandy trails around here.. (Or do I just go to a 50mm?)
    However I found that if the bars are too low, I don't feel nearly as comfortable jumping or descending steeper rock gardens, etc..
    Enve DH bars FWIW.

    How do you guys have your bar/stem setup?


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  13. #1413
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    Well, I don't worry too much about the old fashioned alignments so much. As long as the bars don't hit my legs when turning, then it's good enough for me.

    Vokeswaagin, I just ordered a 40mm Syntace too. I'm going to order the E29 tomorrow.

  14. #1414
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    I just recently put some Enve DH bars on my S-Works E29. Since it came with flat bars I flipped the stem (60mm) over to try and keep the bars as low as possible. So far I'm really loving the overall position and feel.

  15. #1415
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    I'm 5'10 on a med E29 and thought I'd need the same but run a straight KS with no issues. Don't even have the saddle back in the clamp.

  16. #1416
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    Quote Originally Posted by phatfreeheeler View Post
    I'm 5'10 on a med E29 and thought I'd need the same but run a straight KS with no issues. Don't even have the saddle back in the clamp.
    What stem length? Stock 60mm?

  17. #1417
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    Hi, I'm Mic from Italy, riding an Enduro Expert 29er.
    I'm looking for a new chainring and I found this one

    Direct Mount Stainless Steel for SRAM GXP Cranks and Long Spindle BB30 ? wolftoothcomponents.com

    Is it compatible with my crankset?

    On specy site I see:

    crankset: Custom SRAM S-2200, carbon, PF30 spindle, 30T, 94mm BCD spider

    bottom bracket: SRAM, PF30, OS press-in bearings, sealed cartridge

    Thanks!

  18. #1418
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    Little add-on: the main problem for me is if I've got a Long Spindle or a Short Spindle...

    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by cinna View Post
    Hi, I'm Mic from Italy, riding an Enduro Expert 29er.
    I'm looking for a new chainring and I found this one

    Direct Mount Stainless Steel for SRAM GXP Cranks and Long Spindle BB30 ? wolftoothcomponents.com

    Is it compatible with my crankset?

    On specy site I see:

    crankset: Custom SRAM S-2200, carbon, PF30 spindle, 30T, 94mm BCD spider

    bottom bracket: SRAM, PF30, OS press-in bearings, sealed cartridge

    Thanks!

  19. #1419
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    Why don't you just pull the crank and measure it?


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  20. #1420
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    Hi guys. I have ordered a Command post IR for my 2015 Specialized Enduro 29 Comp and I am wondering if I will need to change the stock "bat" in order to run the cable internally.

    In a picture that I have found online it looks like there is a hole in the bat but I am not sure that my bat has a hole.



    I could of course check it myself but I am traveling so I wont have access to my bike for the next 2 weeks so if you could check your bikes and tell me if it is OK or if I should order another bat I would really appreciate it.

    Thank you in advance guys.

  21. #1421
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    You're right...
    Just done it.
    101.5 mm, so I think it's a long spindle.

    Thanks!!

    Quote Originally Posted by vokeswaagin View Post
    Why don't you just pull the crank and measure it?


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  22. #1422
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    Any word on the release date for the 2016 Enduros? Colors? I'm keen to see the spec!

  23. #1423
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    At the Sedona MTB Festival a few months ago, a Spesh rep told me they're implementing a program like Trek's Project One. I think that's pretty sweet.

  24. #1424
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    When you got your Enduros did you also get a shock pump together with the bike? I mean is it included with the bike or do you have to buy it separately?

  25. #1425
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    Official Specialized Enduro Thread

    Seperate
    However, When you buy a monarch plus a shock pump is included.. (Hint hint)

  26. #1426
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    Hi guys. I'm new here and the sport and had a question about a 2007 or 2008 enduro elite I recently purchased. I love the bike and all I really do I trail ride since I'm stuck in fl but I don't really like the rear shock (dhx 4.0) and need some new tires. Do you guys have any upgrade suggestions?

  27. #1427
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    Hey guys. I took the plunge and got a Specialized Enduro 29 after years of deciding. Well, I drove 3 and a half hours to get to a shop that had it and got it home only to realize it had a few problems that I didn't notice when I was there. One is the headset moves around no matter how I adjust my stem, spacers, and cap. Video:



    The other thing is the rear suspension or shock feels gritty and makes a grinding sound for the sag portion of the travel. Video:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQ5IldxSyMU

    So I'm just wondering if anyone knows if there is a fix for these issues that I can do myself. I don't feel like making another 7 hour trip just to get a bike I haven't even ridden yet serviced...

  28. #1428
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    With the headset it might be that your steer tube is too long try putting one more spacer in there... Remember to do the top bolt first then the stem bolts after... Rear shock I'm not 100% sure, but check the linkage bolts make sure they are all tight...

    It's hard to believe a shop would sell you a bike like that... That's top customer service right there...


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  29. #1429
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bristecom View Post
    Hey guys. I took the plunge and got a Specialized Enduro 29 after years of deciding. Well, I drove 3 and a half hours to get to a shop that had it and got it home only to realize it had a few problems that I didn't notice when I was there. One is the headset moves around no matter how I adjust my stem, spacers, and cap....
    You are either missing the spacer shown in the photo (centre item), or it is not snug down into the top bearing, or is mounted upside-down. It should fit right down into the top bearing. Push it with your fingers even and you will see the steer tube tightens right up.

    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-img_0631.jpg

    It could be that you need an extra spacer ring, but it looks like you have all 3 that comes stock.

    Can't tell from video what the issue is with the shock.

    For a shop to release the bike like that is SHAMEFUL.
    I'd call Specialized and complain that one of their dealers SUCKS!
    17 990 Element BC Ed - 25.5 lb burly
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  30. #1430
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    You are either missing the spacer shown in the photo (centre item), or it is not snug down into the top bearing, or is mounted upside-down. It should fit right down into the top bearing. Push it with your fingers even and you will see the steer tube tightens right up.

    It could be that you need an extra spacer ring, but it looks like you have all 3 that comes stock.

    Can't tell from video what the issue is with the shock.

    For a shop to release the bike like that is SHAMEFUL.
    I'd call Specialized and complain that one of their dealers SUCKS!
    Thanks for the reply! So I took it apart and it looked like everything was in there properly as you showed. I refitted it to make sure too. But it actually looks like the movement is coming from the outer edges as if the frame's opening is too big or the bearing is too small? Here's another video. Sorry for the shakiness, it was hard to move it and record at the same time. Hopefully you can see what I mean:


  31. #1431
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    is this a used bike? i think the frame size for the headset is defekt large out from use or manufactor defekt.. contact your lbs!

    ride.

  32. #1432
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    Quote Originally Posted by 8664 View Post
    is this a used bike? i think the frame size for the headset is defekt large out from use or manufactor defekt.. contact your lbs!
    Nope, it should have been brand spankin' new. It just makes me kind of sick to think that I just paid $4000 for a bike that I can't even ride due to poor quality control by Specialized and/or the bike shop. A similar thing happened to a new handgun I just purchased. The thing nearly came apart after firing it a few times and the manufacturer has had it for the past two months. Maybe things just aren't built like they used to be? Or maybe I just have rotten luck. :P

  33. #1433
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bristecom View Post
    Thanks for the reply! So I took it apart and it looked like everything was in there properly as you showed. I refitted it to make sure too. But it actually looks like the movement is coming from the outer edges as if the frame's opening is too big or the bearing is too small? Here's another video. Sorry for the shakiness, it was hard to move it and record at the same time. Hopefully you can see what I mean:

    Can't really tell what is going on in the last video, but if I did that on my bike it would behave the same way. The only way for the crown race (the spacer I was talking about in the first reply, the split ring) to properly fill out the space on the bearing, is to have pressure applied from the top - like when you tighten down the top cap bolt. This pressure pushes the crown race down into the bearing and because of the split, will reduce in circumference thus tightening around the steer tube and snugging things up.

    The top bearing is always larger than the steer tube. Without the crown race, the steer tube will wobble around.

    Is the top bearing flipped upside-down? The outside beveled side should face down and match the beveled head tube top race.
    17 990 Element BC Ed - 25.5 lb burly
    15 Enduro Expert 29, SW build - 27.6
    14 SW Epic WC - 21.8
    12 Niner Air9RDO -16.4

  34. #1434
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    Quite possible the bike shop used your bike for replacement parts and didn't replace the correct bearing back on the bike... I work on a bike shop and never seen a bike coming from the factory like that...

    They probably had the bike in a box and needed some bearings for a clients bike or something, so he didn't had to wait for the part to arrive...


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  35. #1435
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    Can't really tell what is going on in the last video, but if I did that on my bike it would behave the same way. The only way for the crown race (the spacer I was talking about in the first reply, the split ring) to properly fill out the space on the bearing, is to have pressure applied from the top - like when you tighten down the top cap bolt. This pressure pushes the crown race down into the bearing and because of the split, will reduce in circumference thus tightening around the steer tube and snugging things up.

    The top bearing is always larger than the steer tube. Without the crown race, the steer tube will wobble around.

    Is the top bearing flipped upside-down? The outside beveled side should face down and match the beveled head tube top race.
    I just double checked it and it seems like there is only one way to properly fit the bearing. Everything fits as you describe but there is still some play somewhere.

    This is with the little spacer and headset cap removed (so crown and bearing):

    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-img_20150610_022239576.jpg

  36. #1436
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    Quote Originally Posted by dk13 View Post
    Quite possible the bike shop used your bike for replacement parts and didn't replace the correct bearing back on the bike... I work on a bike shop and never seen a bike coming from the factory like that...

    They probably had the bike in a box and needed some bearings for a clients bike or something, so he didn't had to wait for the part to arrive...


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    Yeah, I wouldn't be surprised. I'd like to give people the benefit of the doubt but too often it seems workers will take the easy/sleazy route. I can never seem to find a quality and honest shop or mechanic, whether it be for cars, bikes, or otherwise.

  37. #1437
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    Hi. Most probably this is not the issue but do you have the headset tighten when you instal everything back? If you don't then the there will be some play.

    So make sure that when you instal everything back you will have enough gap between the top spacer and the top of the steerer tube so once you tighten them they will not touch and all parts of the headset will be properly tighten together. Also first tighten everything together and then tighten the stem at the end.

    If you have done all the above and still have play take it back to the LBS and have it fixed.

  38. #1438
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    Hi. Most probably this is not the issue but do you have the headset tighten when you instal everything back? If you don't then the there will be some play.

    So make sure that when you instal everything back you will have enough gap between the top spacer and the top of the steerer tube so once you tighten them they will not touch and all parts of the headset will be properly tighten together. Also first tighten everything together and then tighten the stem at the end.

    If you have done all the above and still have play take it back to the LBS and have it fixed.
    Yeah, I know about that from previous bikes. I tightened it first from the top down with like 3mm of space above the steerer and even tried moving the stem in different spots to see if it would make a difference but no matter what I tried, it still had the play. I guess I'll ask them what they can do. I was hoping not to have to do another 7 hour (3.5 both ways) road trip again but it looks like I might not have a choice. Thanks for your help everyone!

  39. #1439
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    Tip: call the shop in advance to give them a heads up and ensure they alot some time to work on your bike when you bring it in, otherwise you may be waiting all day (or overnight) to get your bike back..


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  40. #1440
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    I'm noticing there is no headset spacer below the stem (3? above) Maybe with no spacer below the stem, pressure is not being applied properly to get the split ring tight enough? If you haven't already - I'd try putting one spacer below the stem re-tightening things down.

    As for the shock, this is a CTD shock? Does it behave the same in all 3 positions?

  41. #1441
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    i had the exact same issue....
    unfortunately i didnt document it very well.
    so, i had to buy headset spacers (1&1/8)
    and 2mm ( i think) and stack it
    on top of the split washer and under the headset cap...

    its the only way, unless u want to get new bearings,
    which u dont need to do.

    the headset top cap should eventually sit just above the frame surface
    and move with the steering (once you clamp your stem down)

    i can get you a pic later if you need.

  42. #1442
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    dont do this. ^
    u can mess up frame and top cap.
    washer need to be BELOW top headset cap
    and ABOVE split washer

  43. #1443
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    I had a similar issue as well and did the same thing as mtbwrider. Do the handlebars move freely when the stem nut is tightened? If not, the stem cap is contacting the frame before the split washer and you will need a spacer on top of the split washer but below the cap. First just try putting a spacer under the stem cap and torqueing everything down to see if it tightens up the sloppiness. If it does, then you will have to figure out exactly how tall of a spacer you will need. I used a carbon one that was close and sanded it down with a very fine grit sandpaper on a flat surface to get the spacing perfect. This was on the advice of Cane Creek where I got the headset from.

  44. #1444
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    UPDATE: Thanks for the suggestions guys! I decided to try some other spacers and wallah, it's tight now. I still don't quite understand it but whatever, at least it's not the frame or something more serious.

    With the suspension, it definitely sounds like it's coming from the upper portion of the shock. I tried re-tightening the upper bolt but it didn't help so it could be the shock itself. I tried descend and trail mode and different rebound settings but it still makes that noise.

    So I finally got to ride it a bit at least. One thing I noticed is that there is a vibration in the middle gears when I accelerate. From the past, I remember this happening on a worn chain. So I guess the chain tension isn't right? Is there something I can do to adjust this?

  45. #1445
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    Hey guys!

    Just wondering. How big bottle can you fit on the Enduro Comp 650B? I currently have a Camber Comp, and I can only bring with me a tiny bottle because there is no room for a larger bottle.

  46. #1446
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kamao View Post
    Hey guys!

    Just wondering. How big bottle can you fit on the Enduro Comp 650B? I currently have a Camber Comp, and I can only bring with me a tiny bottle because there is no room for a larger bottle.
    What size frame?


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  47. #1447
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    Medium.

  48. #1448
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    If you get Specialized side entry cage you should be able to fit a full size bottle on it


    This is a medium enduro sworks 650b


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  49. #1449
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    If you get Specialized side entry cage you should be able to fit a full size bottle on it


    This is a medium enduro sworks 650b


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    Just what I need. Thanks!

  51. #1451
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kamao View Post
    Just what I need. Thanks!
    No prob mate...


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  52. #1452
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    Guys, how tight should the star nut bolt be tightened? I have it tightened real good, but I can still move the stem around, but there is no play when rockin` the bike back and forth. Is it supposed to be like this on Specialized bikes? On other bikes when its tightened its impossible to move the stem.

  53. #1453
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    Are the bolts on the stem tightened all the way? You shouldn't over tighten the star nut bolt. It should be snugged, then tighten the stem bolts, then check the star nut bolt again, but not over tighten.

    I've found it helps to cup your hand around the bottom of the headset where the fork meets to feel for any play. If there is no movement then you are fine.

  54. #1454
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    I checked my other Specialized bike, and the star nut bolt was hardly tightened at all, but it works fine, and no play when holding around the bottom of the headset. So I guess ill do the same with my new Enduro 650B.


    Thanks for reply.

  55. #1455
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    First tighten the starnut bolt and then the stem. Also make sure that there is enough space between the top of the steerer tube and the starnut cap so when you tighten it they won't be in contact. If you do all the above properly there shouldn't be any play.

  56. #1456
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kamao View Post
    Guys, how tight should the star nut bolt be tightened? I have it tightened real good, but I can still move the stem around, but there is no play when rockin` the bike back and forth. Is it supposed to be like this on Specialized bikes? On other bikes when its tightened its impossible to move the stem.
    The star nut bolt DOES NOT hold the the stem in place on its own.

    With the stem bolts snug but not torqued to spec, (you can still rotate the stem) the star nut bolt and cap are tightened to about 30-50 in/lbs. This puts clamping pressure on the stem which transfers that pressure to the head set bearings.

    Make your final stem alignment with the wheel. Tighten the stem bolts to factory spec, usually about 55in/lbs. (Usually etched on the stem). USE A TORQUE WRENCH. Tighten them a little bit each time to bring them up to torque evenly.

    The star nut and cap do 2 things; 1) puts clamping pressure on head set as described, and 2) acts as a safety cap to prevent the stem from pulling off.

    If you tighten the star nut and cap so tight that you can't rotate the loose stem, you have tightened it too much and can pull out the star nut.
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    Got it.

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    I'll just leave this here

    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-img_0916.jpg

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    Alright so here are my first impressions on my Enduro 29 with only some testing around my home (no trails yet).

    I'm a little bit disappointed in the suspension - particularly the rear. I know Fox is generally garbage but compared to my Fox Evolution CTD (same type of shock) on my Giant Trance 27.5 (with 140mm travel), this suspension feels less plush, less supportive, and just a little worse in every way no matter how I adjust it (spent hours trying a wide range of pressure and rebound settings). Now that could simply be down to the FSR suspension compared to the Maestro but I feel like if I had a better shock, it could be tuned to be much better.

    I would go with the BOS Kirk but they don't make it fit this bike so I have very limited options it seems. I hear the Monarch Plus DebonAir works well but I don't like the idea of not having much adjustment. I'd get the DBinline but I've heard some very questionable things about that too. The Ohlins would be pretty baller but I think it may be too heavy and expensive for my typical trail usage. What do you think Glen or anyone who has the Ohlins or Monarch DebonAir for this bike?

    On the upside, the geometry does feel a lot more confident on this bike compared to my Trance. I think the longer front center is probably the biggest difference. The 29 inch wheels do make it feel bigger and heavier though. However, I noticed the suspension set up effected how tight turns felt so perhaps if I get that right, it'll feel more or less the same as the 27.5 in that regard. But I suspect the real benefits of the 29 inch wheels will show when I get out in the roots and stuff.

    There are a lot of other annoyances with drivetrain vibrations and creaks that I'm still sorting out. And I actually just received the new SRAM Guide Ultimates so I'll be putting those on soon. I've never been a fan of Shimano brakes and these stock sets haven't exactly wowed me either.

    As a side note, the stock saddle and grips were ridiculously uncomfortable to me so I had to swap those out quick. My bum and hands were hurting badly after only 15 minutes or so. :O

  60. #1460
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    I have a problem. My brother just passed me his endure sl pro 2009 carbon frame. Is a non tapered frame. How can I get tapered fork to fit into the headtube? Any solution to this ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bristecom View Post
    Alright so here are my first impressions on my Enduro 29 with only some testing around my home (no trails yet).

    I'm a little bit disappointed in the suspension - particularly the rear. I know Fox is generally garbage but compared to my Fox Evolution CTD (same type of shock) on my Giant Trance 27.5 (with 140mm travel), this suspension feels less plush, less supportive, and just a little worse in every way no matter how I adjust it (spent hours trying a wide range of pressure and rebound settings). Now that could simply be down to the FSR suspension compared to the Maestro but I feel like if I had a better shock, it could be tuned to be much better.
    Before dropping $$$ on a new shock, perhaps play with your setup a bit more (air pressure, etc.). It may also need to be broken in. Shocks come notoriously undersupplied with oil, so a service may help. From my experience, FSR on the E29 feels super-plush.

    As a side note, the stock saddle and grips were ridiculously uncomfortable to me so I had to swap those out quick. My bum and hands were hurting badly after only 15 minutes or so. :O
    I find the Henge saddle to be one of the most comfortable I've ever had. But they changed it a little from '14 to '15, I think.

  62. #1462
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vanguard View Post
    Before dropping $$$ on a new shock, perhaps play with your setup a bit more (air pressure, etc.). It may also need to be broken in. Shocks come notoriously undersupplied with oil, so a service may help. From my experience, FSR on the E29 feels super-plush.
    Yeah, I've gone from stock pressures (auto-sag) in small steps to 35% sag with various rebound settings in descend mode and it's nowhere close to the feel of my Trance. Now, it's true that maybe it needs to be broken in or something (which I think is the case for the fork as it does seem to be getting slightly smoother as I go). I posted earlier that my shock is creaking in the sag portion of the travel so I kind of wonder if there is something wrong with it. I will probably take it off the linkage and check everything out soon because it just doesn't feel right.

    I find the Henge saddle to be one of the most comfortable I've ever had. But they changed it a little from '14 to '15, I think.
    Yeah, I heard they did change it and a lot of people don't like the new saddle design. I'm definitely not a fan although it may work for some people.

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    It would be better to actually wait to hit the trails until you make any changes. Having said that I have replaced the stock Fox with a Monarch Plus Debonair and I like it much better.

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    Gap between headset dust cap and top of headtube

    I am the owner of a 2010 S Works Enduro. Rather than getting a new bike, I bought a Pike 160 DPA 650b fork. I guess it will be a 26.b bike going forward - has anyone trademarked that yet? Anyway, while installing the new fork, I find I have a slight gap between the headset cap/seal, and the top of the headtube. This gap will not go away, as the compression ring interferes with the cap. When I think about it, I think the gap has been there since I bought the bike used, but it's annoying me now and I want to fix it. I've attached two photos showing the gap, and one with the cap removed. My questions are, is an IS headset bearing supposed to sit that high above the top of the head tube? It's a few mm above the top of the headtube. If that part is right, do I just need a shorter compression ring? Or a taller dust cap? I'm guessing maybe the prior owner replaced some of the headset, but didn't bother with a new cap. That, or it's a different bearing than was spec'd.

    Open to suggestions...

    Official Specialized Enduro Thread-img_2873.jpgOfficial Specialized Enduro Thread-img_2874.jpg

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  66. #1466
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    Quote Originally Posted by ivanho View Post
    Attachment 990377

    SO heres mine. I got it used and it came with a Debonair rear. However I can't get the dang thing to feel good. I'm running 230psi and I weigh 215. Even with the compression switch in the middle position it bottoms out way too easily. When I pump it through berms it blows so deep into its travel at first I thought the tire was folding over, and on a 5 foot drop to flat it bottom way hard and bucked me over the bars. Any ideas?
    Did did you ever get this worked out? I am thinking about getting a Plus....
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  67. #1467
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    Official Specialized Enduro Thread

    Sounds like he needs to run more volume spacers and lower the pressure a hair, maybe slow the rebound more if he's getting bucked.. I had a great experience with my debonair last year.. Though I ran mine full of the air volume reducers.


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  68. #1468
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    Does anyone one here have a verified weight for the medium size Specialized S-works 2014 frame? With or without shock? Thanks

  69. #1469
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bristecom View Post
    Alright so here are my first impressions on my Enduro 29 with only some testing around my home (no trails yet).

    I'm a little bit disappointed in the suspension - particularly the rear.
    Check out the Fox volume spacers.

    P

  70. #1470
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    Quote Originally Posted by GlenPxC View Post
    I'll just leave this here
    I want one for mine. However I don't want to part with $1700NZ.

  71. #1471
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    Hi guys.

    I have a E29 with a Pike RC and Monarch Plus Debonair and I am wondering what are your fork and shock settings?

    For me in order to have a plush ride I need to run around 35% sag in the attack position for both the fork and shock but with this sag the pedalling efficiency becomes really bad. I suppose that will have most probably to do with the tokens and reducing bands that are already installed but I find it really hard to find a balance between pedalling efficiency and plush ride.

  72. #1472
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    Hi guys.

    I have a E29 with a Pike RC and Monarch Plus Debonair and I am wondering what are your fork and shock settings?

    For me in order to have a plush ride I need to run around 35% sag in the attack position for both the fork and shock but with this sag the pedalling efficiency becomes really bad. I suppose that will have most probably to do with the tokens and reducing bands that are already installed but I find it really hard to find a balance between pedalling efficiency and plush ride.


    78 kg 2 tokens Ón the pike 75 psi 2 clicks compression in the debonair 5 redbands 200 psi I only use the full travel in the back on big drops, rest of the time, if the terrain is really steep or im racing iI add 2 more clicks of compression on the pike . I had before the in-line then the double barrel I think personally that the debonair is the best match for the e29. Good luck.

  73. #1473
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    Thank you very much.

    I have heard (but never checked) that the Pike has 1 token already installed and that the Debonair is full of volume reducers. Was this the case with you?

    As far as I am concerned I am 110kg and I run 75psi in the Pike and 230 in the Debonair and I get around 35% sag but still don't use full travel but I don't do any big drops anyway.

    I wonder if for general trail rides it would be better to use no tokens and volume reducers in order to have a more linear feel and usage of full travel?

  74. #1474
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    Yes my pike came with 1 token and the debonair full of redbands I think 8 I know I took out 3 of them, but defentatly if you want the suspension more linier take a few out,but leave some, you don't want to lose that pop feeling.

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    I can't believe this! The 2016 Enduro has been announced and yes it is mostly the same but the top models will come with a new Ohlins TTX Air! I am so happy because I am obviously not satisfied with the stock Fox Float shock that came with my bike and I've always LOVED Ohlins but the coil just seemed like it would probably be too heavy and I didn't like the idea of not being able to fine tune the spring rate.

    But I'm also not really satisfied with the other designs of Cane Creek. I really wanted a BOS Kirk or maybe the upcoming Marzocchi 053 S3C2R but it looks like neither will be made for our bike's proprietary mount. So that left me with the RockShox Monarch Plus DebonAir which I went ahead and ordered but I know I will almost certainly desire more adjustability like high and low speed compression.

    So this Ohlins TTX air looks like it may be the answer to all of my suspension desires. My only fear is that it will cost unbelievable amounts of money or will have frequent and expensive service intervals that require it to be sent off for a long time.

    Anyway, here are the articles: SPOTTED: ÷hlins Air Shock - Pinkbike

    Sneak Peek: New Ohlins Air Shock Featured on 2016 Specialized Enduro - Mountain Bikes Feature Stories - Vital MTB

    (It even looks like they are working on an Ohlins air fork!)

    And you can see the updated Enduro line up on the German Specialized website here: Specialized Bicycle Components

  76. #1476
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    This site is a little closer to home for all the 2016 Specialized products.

    Specialized Bicycle Components
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  77. #1477
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    This site is a little closer to home for all the 2016 Specialized products.

    Specialized Bicycle Components
    Oh yeah, thanks. I didn't see it in English. So interestingly they call it the "÷hlins STX" with a SINGLE tube, not twin tube. But with the 3 air chambers, that should have very interesting effects and tunability.

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    Looks like Specialized fixed their site.

  79. #1479
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    This isnt that hard... The Enduros will probably get SWAT doors when the engineering team has enough resources (aka quits gherkin it on proprietary road bike parts that will likely be recalled early 2016).
    Second, this shock is specifically designed to deal with outdated bad suspension design. Proprietary mounts, proprietary length/stroke... Exciting! PUSH wont do a shock for the Enduro 650b over 190lb rider weight because the ratio is garbage.
    This shock is a bandaid for bad frame shock rates, not new tech that will have any trickle-down to applly to any other brand bike. I feel sorry Ohlins was talked into working with these clowns.
    Any idiot should deduce that this bike/shock is a complete waste of money until redesigned in 2016. And it will still a be a waste until proprietary mounts and stroke/lengths are gone.
    Way to go Specialized and Ohlins (slow clap......)
    This is what I have seen in the comments section regarding the new Ohlins air shock: [Updated] New Ohlins STX22 Air Shock Featured on 2016 Specialized Enduro - Mountain Bikes Feature Stories - Vital MTB

    Anyone care to comment?

  80. #1480
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    I don't really like Specialized for the proprietary parts and their attitude and also I am not a fan of 29ers but the E29 is the best bike I have ever had. It is that great that I have bought it against all my above mentioned reservations and never looked back.

    Having said that hater gonna hate etc.

  81. #1481
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    I don't really like Specialized for the proprietary parts and their attitude and also I am not a fan of 29ers but the E29 is the best bike I have ever had. It is that great that I have bought it against all my above mentioned reservations and never looked back.

    Having said that hater gonna hate etc.
    Every brand has proprietary parts. Some more, some less.

    As for Specialized, what proprietary part is restrictive?
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    The most important one is the rear shock since due to the yoke you can't put any after market shock that you like.

  83. #1483
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    Direct mount makes far more sense than crappy standard DU's. Sure you can do what Kona does but its not anywhere near as clean. As long as you can get a Monarch you don't need any other shock. They are massively tuneable.

  84. #1484
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCL View Post
    Direct mount makes far more sense than crappy standard DU's. Sure you can do what Kona does but its not anywhere near as clean. As long as you can get a Monarch you don't need any other shock. They are massively tuneable.
    Some tuneability, three compression settings, rebound and air pressure? . Well not my Monarch Plus RC3. It's weird, I'll ride it for half a ride and think that is setup perfectly, then I'll hit a section of small roots in quick succession and I swear it's almost locked out. Apparently the Double Barrel coil is now available with the Specialized mount. Only it costs even more than the Ohlins!!

  85. #1485
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    The most important one is the rear shock since due to the yoke you can't put any after market shock that you like.
    Let me see . . . so far the Enduro 29 and 650b with custom yoke mounting, has come with various air shocks from: Fox, CC Double Barrel, CC Inline, Rockshox and now an Ohlins. On the coil side there is Fox and Ohlins.

    WTF else is there to choose from!
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  86. #1486
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    Let me see . . ..
    WTF else is there to choose from!
    I guess you could consider that it rules out putting one on that you already own...
    I think my list was
    Air
    Fox CTD $300US
    Cane Creek DB $700US
    Cane Creek Inline $540US
    Rock Shox Monarch RC $430US

    Fox Vanilla RC
    Cane Creek DB Coil ($1000US?)
    Ohlins TTX 22M $850US
    Elevensix $1200US

  87. #1487
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    I have already put a Monarch Plus Debonair but it was PITA to find one. Anyway regardless of its benefits the yoke is still a limiting proprietary part and I don't like them.

    But the E29 is a fantastic bike so I don't complain.

  88. #1488
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard25 View Post
    Some tuneability, three compression settings, rebound and air pressure? . Well not my Monarch Plus RC3. It's weird, I'll ride it for half a ride and think that is setup perfectly, then I'll hit a section of small roots in quick succession and I swear it's almost locked out. Apparently the Double Barrel coil is now available with the Specialized mount. Only it costs even more than the Ohlins!!
    Three air can size options. Multiple compression/rebound tunes. Plus all the on trail stuff you mentioned. No other shock is as tuneable. Send it to good suspension service centre with your issues and see what they can do. Lots of guys have to change the compression tune as the leverage rate is quite flat which is typical for Specialized.

  89. #1489
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard25 View Post
    I guess you could consider that it rules out putting one on that you already own...
    I think my list was
    Air
    Fox CTD $300US
    Cane Creek DB $700US
    Cane Creek Inline $540US
    Rock Shox Monarch RC $430US

    Fox Vanilla RC
    Cane Creek DB Coil ($1000US?)
    Ohlins TTX 22M $850US
    Elevensix $1200US
    If you have all these already, how can you possibly be lacking in options?

    I realize you don't have all these, but you pointed out a substantial list of available options with custom yoke. Yup, they are expensive! If you can't be happy with any of these 7 options, perhaps you should ride rigid for a while.

    The chances of bringing ANY shock with you to your next bike is pretty much impossible with any brand, regardless of mounting options. Too many variables. And why would you if you bought the newest latest and greatest frame you get the latest shock technology at that price point. I have a box of old shocks. I'll send them to you.

    Yes I'm being sarcastic and poking fun, but there is no point here suggesting a lack of options for the Specialized Enduro yoke.
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  90. #1490
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    I have a box of old shocks. I'll send them to you.
    Yes I'm being sarcastic and poking fun, but there is no point here suggesting a lack of options for the Specialized Enduro yoke.
    I was listing them for the sake of the forum. Have you got an old Romic in your box? I'm trying to find one about 190mm...
    I am curious about the Double Barrel Coil. My local dealer wouldn't tell me how much it was, only said that it says even more than the Ohlins (which was $1700NZ or with our exchange rates, $1100US).

  91. #1491
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard25 View Post
    . . . . .
    I am curious about the Double Barrel Coil. My local dealer wouldn't tell me how much it was, only said that it says even more than the Ohlins (which was $1700NZ or with our exchange rates, $1100US).
    DB coil is an awesome shock. So many DH riders use it, can only image the ride quality and control on a Enduro 29.
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  92. #1492
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    Quote Originally Posted by CarManDSL View Post
    DB coil is an awesome shock. So many DH riders use it, can only image the ride quality and control on a Enduro 29.
    Yep but asking more than Ohlins? I can only think it's a recent thing, as for as long as I've had my bike (14 E26) Cane Creek's website has a "does not fit" for Specialized. I guess the issue for me is that we've seen coil move away from being a default option to a boutique purchase. Obviously air is brilliant for product managers (weight savings) and for adjusting settings for different terrain and rider weight. However I like to set and forget. Don't get me wrong, the bike is brilliant, plenty of grip, light and as hard hitting as my old SX and nearly as capable as my old DH bikes.
    I've been umming and ahhing about Ohlins for awhile.

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    Hi guys. Since we speak about proprietary parts can I use a standard 142x12 wheel in my E29 142x12+ frame?

    I have heard that I can do it but I just want some additional confirmation from someone who actually did it.

  94. #1494
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    Hi guys. Since we speak about proprietary parts can I use a standard 142x12 wheel in my E29 142x12+ frame?
    As far as I'm aware you can, you'll just have to adjust your rear derailleur as your cassette will now be sitting inboard slightly.

  95. #1495
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard25 View Post
    Don't get me wrong, the bike is brilliant, plenty of grip, light and as hard hitting as my old SX and nearly as capable as my old DH bikes
    Agree 100% with this comment. I sold my SX (2010) to buy the E26 and my Demo hasn't seen much use since.

    In terms of the shock, still running the 2013 DBAir and couldn't ask for better performance. Honestly, once I set to my preference the performance has been truly unbelievable and just takes a little air pressure change from time to time to suit the terrain I am riding.

    I run the coil version on my Demo and the Air is just as good. After riding other bikes owned by friends, I still find the E26 is THE beast!

    Like Mudguard25 said, there are many option available if you wish to change, haters just want to hate and complaint.

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    Guys it is not a matter of hate towards Specialized but more towards all companies that use proprietary parts.

    For example I have put a Monarch Plus Debonair (that as I mentioned was a PITA to find) but on the other side I can't sell the stock Fox shock because there is limited to no demand for it because it is only E29 compatible.

    My Roval Fatties are great wheels but again due to their 142x12+ hubs I won't be able to sell them if I want to upgrade my current wheelset.

    So on top of the restrictions that proprietary parts have when you want to upgrade them there also additional restrictions when you try to sell them.

    And the same applied to Giant in the past with their Overdrive 2 steerers and also applies to companies like Trek, Scott etc and honestly I just don't like it.

    However and I will say it once again despite all the above I decided to buy the E29 because I think that it is a fantastic bike and I didn't regret it. But I would have been much more happier if it didn't have any proprietary parts.

  97. #1497
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    Quote Originally Posted by gpgalanis View Post
    Guys it is not a matter of hate towards Specialized but more towards all companies that use proprietary parts.
    Oh I feel your pain. I debated for a long time when buying my bike. I don't think any of my previous Specialized bikes had any proprietary parts. Maybe my 04 Big Hit with the 24" rear wheel.
    To the change the shock link was completely unnecessary and just forced you into buying a new shock if you didn't like the stock one.

  98. #1498
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mudguard25 View Post
    Oh I feel your pain. I debated for a long time when buying my bike. I don't think any of my previous Specialized bikes had any proprietary parts. Maybe my 04 Big Hit with the 24" rear wheel.
    To the change the shock link was completely unnecessary and just forced you into buying a new shock if you didn't like the stock one.
    If you didn't like any stock shock would you not be forced into buying a new one?

    The proprietary Specialized link design is great which is why a number of companies are copying it.

  99. #1499
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    They copy the linkage not the link. Anyway we all all love our E29 so no need to keep discussing it.



    PS. What is the max rotor size that I can use in the back? Can it take 200mm?
    Last edited by gpgalanis; 07-26-2015 at 04:33 PM.

  100. #1500
    JCL
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    Wrong. Many designs. Ibis, Kona, Devinci etc now have DU'less clevis links.

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