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Official Specialized Camber Thread

1M views 5K replies 748 participants last post by  aznmode 
#1 · (Edited)
well, the first thread seemed to have a lot of speculation and questions...
now that the camber is beginning to trickle into shops and hit the trails, i figure we'd get a new thread going with some real life experiences and pics...from us who are really riding them (not just getting them for free to test ride).
here's my 2011 camber elite..size medium..






here's what i've changed:
-sram x.7 drivetrain
-truvativ stylo crankset
-pg990 cassette
-pc991 chain
-phenom saddle
-sunline v1 am wheelset
-maxxis advantage front / maxxis larsen tt rear tires (set up tubeless)
-esi chunky grips
-crank bros egg beater sl pedals
-truvativ stylo race 100mm stem
-truvativ stylo race seatpost

weighs in at 27lb 10oz...which for a 5" travel trail bike is pretty good imo.
 
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#203 ·
Hey bro,

I took her to the trail yesterday and she responded, both climbing and descending, best bike I ever ride so far (sorry bro, someone might disagree cause I am newbie still).

Camber is very good climbing bike for me, I dare not go full swing during downhill, coz new to the bike and the trail.. will try again tomorrow ^^

*** damn excited... ***



 
#205 ·
Hi folks,
this is a question for Expert model owners. I usually let the bike "rest" in 24t/chainring 11t/cog. In this combination, the chain is too long, with no tension, touching the chainstay (similar when using 34t cassete/triple rings and medium/small cage rear der). Removing the removable link, I had noted about 4 links plus than recomended by Shimano techdocs (2 links). Are yours Experts in the same condition?
Thanks and a happy 2011 for everybody!
 
#206 ·
Bikebr said:
Hi folks,
this is a question for Expert model owners. I usually let the bike "rest" in 24t/chainring 11t/cog. In this combination, the chain is too long, with no tension, touching the chainstay (similar when using 34t cassete/triple rings and medium/small cage rear der). Removing the removable link, I had noted about 4 links plus than recomended by Shimano techdocs (2 links). Are yours Experts in the same condition?
Thanks and a happy 2011 for everybody!
Nothing wrong with your bike. This is common on all bikes. WHen you cross chain like that (smallest ring in the front and smallest in the back there will not be much chain tension). Don't remove the links cause it will throw out everything when you go back into the larger ring and rear gears.
 
#208 ·
rims on the camber elite 29er?

the specialized website says

"Custom for SBC, alloy disc, double wall, pin joint, eyelets, 27mm, 32h"

my dealer said he thought they were made by Alex, but he wasn't sure...anyone know who makes these? Are these really heavy or are they light and weak? I'm 220 lbs. so just curious. I'm not a weight wennie, but just curious if they will hold up?

has anyone converted their elite 29er to tubeless? just curious how easy/well it went?

also, what is the main difference between the RS Recon Gold 29er and the RS Reba 29er? It looks like they are both air but I think the Reba is 'dual-air' while the Recon is solo-air.....what does this mean?

cheers,

Craig
 
#209 ·
I have a 2011 camber elite and was wondering about going tubeless. Any suggestions? I saw that it came with the extra presta valves so I am assuming the rims are sealed?
How much weight will this help and any more suggestions on other weight to cut (besides laying off of the BIG MACS:)
 
#211 ·
Hi TJM0031 and larlev,

I ride my camber for the fifth time today, when I shift to largest rear gear during climbing, it went dis-engaged where I have to spend 20 minutes (first time I am in this situation) to pull out the chain and try to fix it back to the position.

I do notice that the last 2 time during downhill the chain give me some "clicking" sound, any idea/ suggestion if I should take out say one link from my chain to try out?
 
#212 ·
samuel1996 said:
Hi TJM0031 and larlev,

I ride my camber for the fifth time today, when I shift to largest rear gear during climbing, it went dis-engaged where I have to spend 20 minutes (first time I am in this situation) to pull out the chain and try to fix it back to the position.

I do notice that the last 2 time during downhill the chain give me some "clicking" sound, any idea/ suggestion if I should take out say one link from my chain to try out?
Sounds like your lower limit screw needs to be adjusted on whichever derailleur the chain slipped off . It's not uncommon for this to happen with new bikes/cables as they wear in and stretch slightly. It's a very simple and quick adjustment.... probably a half-turn of a screwdriver. Plenty of videos online, though it is easier if you are able to mount the bike so that the rear wheel spins freely... so you might just pop by your LBS if it's close and have them show you.

The limit screws will stop the chain from falling off, but you'll also need to learn how to adjust the cable tension. If you're skipping/missing when you shift, or ghost-shifting, it's probably the cable tension is trying to pull the chain off the current cog. Tension is usually adjusted by the knobs that go over the cable tubing on the shifters. This is easy to play around with while riding (just get it dialed in before hitting technical stuff :) ).

The "clicking" sound on the downhill sounds like chain slap. This is just the chain smacking against the chainstay, inevitable on non-SS bikes. You should already have a chainguard (the plastic thing on your right chainstay) to protect the paint. My camber came with one at least.

BTW....Since your bike is new, keep an eye out for cable rub... I was surprised how far the grit cut through the enamel and paint after only 3 months. I had quite a bit under the BB... I wonder if this is common since spesh routes cables under the gritty BB. My shop put some protective tape on and gave me the rest of the sheet... After bathing it, I found several other places that were already showing wear.
 
#213 ·
hi, im looking to buying a camber frame, right now i have a specialized pitch pro whit 160mm fork and is a great bike climbs very good and go downhills and jumps incredible, but i want like a second bike a little more cross county thing, my question is can i put a 140mm fork in this frame? ( i have rock shox pike from my pitch so i want to use it) and can it do like 3feet drops and jumps? and any advice on the frame is welcome im thinking of buying one.thanks.
 
#214 ·
Hi GotoDengo,

Thank you very much for your tips!

Well, I guess I will send my bike to LBS to learn how to adjust the limit screw and cable tension for the first time cause I don't want to screw up the setting ^^; will try to do it myself the next time.

You must be went around the open fire road very frequent? Wash the frame with "wash and wax" mild detergent will help to protect the bike enamel/ paint? I bought a bottle of car wash/ wax detergent and thinking of to clean her up after rough ride..
 
#215 ·
samuel1996 said:
Hi GotoDengo,

Thank you very much for your tips!

Well, I guess I will send my bike to LBS to learn how to adjust the limit screw and cable tension for the first time cause I don't want to screw up the setting ^^; will try to do it myself the next time.

You must be went around the open fire road very frequent? Wash the frame with "wash and wax" mild detergent will help to protect the bike enamel/ paint? I bought a bottle of car wash/ wax detergent and thinking of to clean her up after rough ride..
Hi Samuel,
What size stem did you small come with? Was it a 60mm or a 75mm?
Thanks,
TJM
 
#217 ·
samuel1996 said:
I think mine with 70mm.
Thanks Sam. Trying to decide b/w S and M for a Camber. Shops only stock M or larger bikes but my local shop still has an FSR-XC bike in small and I noticed it shares the exact same effective and actual top tube w/ the new camber. It also has the exact same seat tube length etc. The only difference is the FSR-XC's had more standover height. Probably going to ride it today so I can finally choose a size to order.
 
#218 ·
TJM0031 said:
Thanks Sam. Trying to decide b/w S and M for a Camber. Shops only stock M or larger bikes but my local shop still has an FSR-XC bike in small and I noticed it shares the exact same effective and actual top tube w/ the new camber. It also has the exact same seat tube length etc. The only difference is the FSR-XC's had more standover height. Probably going to ride it today so I can finally choose a size to order.
Initially I thought I stand at 171cm, for pass few years I did not go and re-measure my height, so my LBS guy ask me to confirm when I sizing the bike, and I am left with 169cm now.. Gosh! I guess I shrank down as I grow "maturer" (may be my bone density or my spine position went off... yet to find out form the chiropractor), you might want to confirm you height again? Just my 2 cents..
 
#219 ·
arctic slalom said:
also, what is the main difference between the RS Recon Gold 29er and the RS Reba 29er? It looks like they are both air but I think the Reba is 'dual-air' while the Recon is solo-air.....what does this mean?
Solo air means that there is only 1 schrader valve for putting air into the fork. Both the negative and positive pressure chambers will have the same air pressure. On a dual air fork, there are two schrader valves so you can adjust the pressure in each chamber independently. With a dual air for you can adjust the compression and rebound separately by putting different pressures in each chamber. With a solo air you can't do that since both chambers share the same pressure.
 
#220 ·
Ok so provide any help with the other folks stuck b/w sizes. I finally rode the 2010 FSR-XC in small yesterday. It sharges the exact same eff and actual top tube as the camber and the same exact seat tube length. I felt like I was riding a clown bike. I was way to close to the bars and the bike just felt teeny tiny. The med. camber I rode a few days back felt nice and relaxed and really comfy. The stems are listed wrong for sure as others have mentioned. With a small you "will get" a 60mm and Med. a 75mm. We even measured them at the shop to confirm.

I do highly recommend experiencing both sizes if you can and keep in mind that that last year's FSR-XC's do share the same geometry except standover height w/ the Camber. So if you don't have access to multiple frame sizes in the Camber you can substitute an FSR-XC for a test ride.
 
#221 ·
samuel1996 said:
Hi GotoDengo,

You must be went around the open fire road very frequent? Wash the frame with "wash and wax" mild detergent will help to protect the bike enamel/ paint? I bought a bottle of car wash/ wax detergent and thinking of to clean her up after rough ride..
Fire roads? Not completely sure what you mean by that first sentence. I've ridden bikes all my life, including dirt and fire roads, but consider the first time I rode groomed singletrack as my initiation into "mountain biking". Now I think fire roads are fairly boring, when technical trails abound here.

Mild detergent soap is fine to wash the bike with, but not really necessary to protect the enamel. And unless you're super-anal about washing the bike every ride --- including the tight spots like under the BB where you'd have to dig the crud out with a narrow brush --- cable rub can kick in just a few rides. Easier to just put decals on the spots where the cables are in frequent contact with the frame.
 
#222 ·
GotoDengo said:
Fire roads? Not completely sure what you mean by that first sentence. I've ridden bikes all my life, including dirt and fire roads, but consider the first time I rode groomed singletrack as my initiation into "mountain biking". Now I think fire roads are fairly boring, when technical trails abound here.

Mild detergent soap is fine to wash the bike with, but not really necessary to protect the enamel. And unless you're super-anal about washing the bike every ride --- including the tight spots like under the BB where you'd have to dig the crud out with a narrow brush --- cable rub can kick in just a few rides. Easier to just put decals on the spots where the cables are in frequent contact with the frame.
Thanks bro, I will take your advice and put some decals between cable and the frame before it is too late..^^
 
#226 ·
BB creaking even after tightening!

I have a Camber Expert and love it. The BB creaked some on the first few rides and I figured it was loose. Took it back to my LBS who said it was indeed loose and took care of it. Then I got it home and it creaks as much or worse than before I took it in! What would cause a brand new bike with a freshly tightened bottom bracket to creak like that? I even rode out of the saddle to make sure it wasn't my seat creaking. Any thoughts? :mad:
 
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