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  1. #4401
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    Im seeking thoughts on a Camber as a replacement for my Epic. I'd invert the stem to get a bit lower over the front end with some 2.35 ikons? Would the 120mm be ok for marathon racing?

  2. #4402
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    How old is your Epic? Headtube lengths have shrunk year on year. That said I run a medium even though I'd prefer the reach of the large due to the far shorter head tube length of the medium.

    The frame is a little heavy but my 16 Comp frame (alloy rear) is just under 26lbs (Ground Control tires with Control sidewalls) If you go S-Works or Pro on a medium you should be in a the mid 25lb range as long as you don't cheap out on parts.

    120mm feels a bit to nervous for me racing in BC, I run 130mm. If your terrain is lower angle you'll be fine with the 120mm fork.

    Suspension is efficient. More so the smaller the front chain ring you run. Handling wise it's another planet to an Epic. Allowing you to maintain far more corner speed and save more energy due to descending ability. The Epic is dated geometry wise, Nino's race bike is as slack as a Camber.

    That's the only problem with the Camber as an XC race bike, the Scott Spark. Unless you get a crazy deal on Specialized I would have a good look at that bike.

  3. #4403
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    Looks like 29er Sworks ran out... can't find any in Large.

    Pfft.. only the 650b seems to have left. What do you think guys?

  4. #4404
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    Quote Originally Posted by wenna View Post
    I'm 177 cm with long legs and have size M with 5mm longer stem. Wish I had gone for size L with 20mm shorter stem. Now I feel like I get my weight to much forward when standing.
    What do you mean when you say "long legs" in cm?

    I'm 177cm height and my legs 84cm and I feel a bit like you.

    I have just changed the original handlebar a for Easton Haven 20mm rise.

    I haven't tried it yet but I hope my weight gets more backward.

    Sometimes I feel my rear wheel loses traction and I also feel my own weight on my hands too much

    I first rolled the original handlebar and it felt quite better, but the upsweep turned too high -at least visually- so I thought that maybe a riser handlebar could be the solution.

    Maybe I will go for a longer stem but nor for the moment I wanna see how the new handlebar works.

    I'll keep you informed hehe

  5. #4405
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    This may have been brought up at some point in the 89 pages of this thread, but here goes: I've a 2013 Camber 29er Expert with the stock fork (120mm), but the fork is somewhat broken and only moves on the biggest hits. Basically, I need a new fork and want to move to something in the 130-140 range. I found a killer deal on a Pike Dual Air 150-120mm, but hesitated because I don't want to destroy the geometry of the bike. Anyone have any insights or thoughts?

  6. #4406
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    I really wish my 2013 Camber Carbon Pro didn't creak. That's about all I have to say on that subject.
    2016 Cannondale Scalpel Si Carbon 3 (27.5)
    2013 Specialized Camber Carbon
    2011 Specialized Stumpjumper Comp

  7. #4407
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfaura View Post
    What do you mean when you say "long legs" in cm?

    I'm 177cm height and my legs 84cm and I feel a bit like you.

    I have just changed the original handlebar a for Easton Haven 20mm rise.

    I haven't tried it yet but I hope my weight gets more backward.

    Sometimes I feel my rear wheel loses traction and I also feel my own weight on my hands too much

    I first rolled the original handlebar and it felt quite better, but the upsweep turned too high -at least visually- so I thought that maybe a riser handlebar could be the solution.

    Maybe I will go for a longer stem but nor for the moment I wanna see how the new handlebar works.

    I'll keep you informed hehe
    177cm 85cm inseam.

    Right now I've settled for 70mm 10 degree stem, 30mm rise handlebar.

    I think a Large with 50mm stem would be a better fit.

  8. #4408
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    Is the base model 1x10 or 2x9? I'm going to test one tomorrow and put it on layaway if it goes well!

  9. #4409
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    Anyone know pivot bearing sizes for CCC 2016/2017? I should have taken the measures will servicing them in summer.

  10. #4410
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    The 2016 base model is 2x9, not sure about the 2017. I just converted mine to 1x10 with the Sunrace 11-42 cassette and all new XT components.
    2016 Specialized Camber 27.5

  11. #4411
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    Quote Originally Posted by cobeez View Post
    The 2016 base model is 2x9, not sure about the 2017. I just converted mine to 1x10 with the Sunrace 11-42 cassette and all new XT components.
    Was the old set up causing you problems or did you just want to upgrade? I ask because I have a base on layaway now.

  12. #4412
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    Thought I'd throw up a stock pic since I can't find any of my layaway bike yet. 2017 Camber comp 650b Graphite. I'll have it this March just in time for the weather to (hopefully) break.


  13. #4413
    JCL
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    Enough time to reconsider and get the right wheel size too.

  14. #4414
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    Quote Originally Posted by wordsthoughts View Post
    Was the old set up causing you problems or did you just want to upgrade? I ask because I have a base on layaway now.
    Mostly because I wanted to get rid of the front derailluer, clean up the look a bit. The 2x9 was fine though. I also felt it was kinda out dated though. Everything seems to be 1x now-a-days! You'll love the bike either way!
    2016 Specialized Camber 27.5

  15. #4415
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCL View Post
    Enough time to reconsider and get the right wheel size too.
    Funny I rode both and the 650b felt much better... I felt more centered, comfortable and in control. It was quite obvious. Maybe don't knock it till you try it? Or maybe what is ideal for me isn't quite the same for you?

  16. #4416
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    Quote Originally Posted by BykerMike View Post
    Funny I rode both and the 650b felt much better... I felt more centered, comfortable and in control. It was quite obvious. Maybe don't knock it till you try it? Or maybe what is ideal for me isn't quite the same for you?
    Yeah I guess if you want something agile at jogging speeds 650b is the way to go.

    I agree with Specialized that sub 160mm bikes with 29" wheels are a waste of time.

  17. #4417
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCL View Post
    Yeah I guess if you want something agile at jogging speeds 650b is the way to go.

    I agree with Specialized that sub 160mm bikes with 29" wheels are a waste of time.
    Where/when did they say that?

  18. #4418
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    Everytime I've spoke to them. Crankworx etc.

    In fact I've never seen an R&D guy riding a 650b bike. Pretty obvious they're second priority with them if you look at the leverage ratios of the bikes. The 650b S-Works Stumpy didn't even get a carbon chainstay last year.

  19. #4419
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    IDK man, felt better to me is all I'm sayin. Did you ask any of your "R&D friends at Crankworks" why the 29ers didn't get boost hubs this year?

  20. #4420
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    I have a 2017 Specialized Camber Comp 650b. After doing some extensive shopping and seeing very little info online, figured i would share what i know:

    650b version
    1x11 setup stock, mix of NX and GX components (GX rear derailur, everything else NX)..no this does not use an XD driver, that starts at GX

    both versions have internal cable routing for everything BUT the brake line(s). rationale is you dont want a line to break and get hydraulic fluid inside the frame.

    The internal cable routing includes internal dropper post.

    like a good portion of frames, getting that darn hose to do a near 90 degree upward bend to install a dropper post yourself is nearly impossible. bike shop had to take the bottom bracket off to perform the routing, and actually in the process replace the bottom bracket. FYI if you want to install a stealth dropper on this bike yourself, its a MOFO.

    650B version comes with BOOST spacing.

    130 mm suspension front and back. the REVELATION fork can be fitted with a new air shaft that extends the fork to 140 mm. that is not advertised, but more a feature of the Rockshox revelation than it is of the Specialized bike itself.

    The Revelation is the base model, without the fancy damper (RTC3?)

    The bike could probably accomodate 2.6 inch tires. 2.8 (plus) tires probably not, but plenty of clearance. the stock 2.3s looks small given the space available.

    The stock hubs are low end OEM DT Swiss Specialized rebranded, like many roval wheels.

    The stock tires are the light, thin sidewall control casing. Put more stans in their ASAP, i had stuff start leaking thru the thin sidewall when new. need to re-up Stans ASAP. the sidewalls are very thin and will "bleed" thru until properly worn in and sealed, more stans. if this happens, more stans, ride, and chill. they will probably seal.

    The Shimano M-506 brakes are I-spec B mount. i could mount a Wolf Tooth Dropper ReMote with the stock I-Spec B mounting just fine. FYI.

    The AutoSag is crap. IMO. it autosags too firm. I adjust myself anyways. From the factory, it appears they over lube the air can with this grey-ish blue goo. Fox shock lube. When you use the autosag, it blows this goo everywhere. a couple of drops worth. I am told after use, this doesnt happen any more. I dont know about you, i want to keep the lube in my shock. So Autosag doesnt work, and blows lube everywhere. great... yea never using it again. Dont worry, this is lube in the AIR CAN, not the DAMPER (much more important, if this is leaking DO NOT ride the bike). The Air can lube is just to lube the shock shaft, and teh seal surrounding it. important yes, but not a catastrophe should you lose a bit. In fact, its what keeps a thin film on the shaft of the shock, most shocks do this.

    That being said...a few people told me my shock was bad cause "too much lube is on the shaft...leaking from the factory." See above...its just due to the "factory over lube" and over time it will thin out, or level out to normal like any other bike. "chill" on this if it happens. ride bike worry less.

    I have personally found on the Revelation, i need to be less PSI than the manual states. Personal opinion. with the Shock, i am still experimenting perfect setting for plush and good sag/setting / psi for anti pedal bob.

    ____

    29er

    NO BOOST. I dont know why they did this. makes no sense. you would think 29 wheels would benefit from boost more than 650b

    120 MM travel FRONT AND BACK! 10 mm shorter than 650B. Also assuming you can add 10 mm to the fork with the air spring

    NO 1x11...2x10 setup stock. Also dont know why they did this. from a consumer standpoint most people want 1x11...they put 1x11 on the 650b its not like its too expensive to offer it on this model. silly to me.


    In general, amazing bike. Love it. "playful". I want to throw some 2.5 or new (coming out?) 2.6 inch tires on it ASAP to add more grip, a bit of size, and a bit of plushness to the wheels. I think 130 mm from and back is good enough for most riding. I like a bit of plushness on the rear when doing drops rather than the springiness of sub 120 mm. I definitely use the 130 mm in front.

    the geometry is "comfortable" but i started riding Specialized so it feels at home. Definitely a more lax, upright setup rather than the long, stretched feeling some bikes with a longer top tube have.

    the 68 degree on a 650b bike is not "aggressive" by todays standards which would be 66 or 67, pretty much spot of for a "medium or normal" trail bike. I would say the bike GREATLY benefits from a dropper post.

    BUY A DROPPER POST. few reasons:
    its a short bike - short chainstays etc. you dont have the length and big wheels of a 29er, get that weight BACK!

    68 degree head angle on a 650b isnt steep but not slack, if you dont some steep descents then again, a dropper really helps inspire confidence.

    Considering taking it to 140 mm front with a 2.6 tire, which may slacken the head angle a bit and see if that helps aggressive riding.

    in todays trend ridden world you may be nagged about having a bike that is not in either category - short travel 29er or long travel "all mountain / enduro" 650b, people look at this as a b**tardized trail bike that isnt either. Fact is, im 5'7 140 pounds and it fits really well, provising a small, lighter, nimble platform for me to learn how to flick the bike around, get better an manuals, wheelies, etc and i just dont feel comfy on a 29er really. The response is generally " just buy a 29er, and learn. you will like it after a while." okay. well, i love this bike now.

    It needs very little upgrades. Stock specialized components are great.

    i would say bump the fork out to 140 mm and throw some 2.6 inch times on it (perhaps 2.3,2.4 or 2.5 in back and a 2.5 or 2.6 in front to perhaps prop up the front end slightly and perhaps effectively slacken head angle a bit more) and this is one badddd trail bike.

  21. #4421
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    New Camber Carbon Comp. Love it!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Specialized Camber Thread-14937200_10154785303832074_2739479521203054553_n.jpg  

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-14962797_10154782069727074_5647445523212536501_n.jpg  


  22. #4422
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    Quote Originally Posted by ike_ View Post
    I have a 2017 Specialized Camber Comp 650b. After doing some extensive shopping and seeing very little info online, figured i would share what i know:

    650b version
    1x11 setup stock, mix of NX and GX components (GX rear derailur, everything else NX)..no this does not use an XD driver, that starts at GX

    both versions have internal cable routing for everything BUT the brake line(s). rationale is you dont want a line to break and get hydraulic fluid inside the frame.

    The internal cable routing includes internal dropper post.

    like a good portion of frames, getting that darn hose to do a near 90 degree upward bend to install a dropper post yourself is nearly impossible. bike shop had to take the bottom bracket off to perform the routing, and actually in the process replace the bottom bracket. FYI if you want to install a stealth dropper on this bike yourself, its a MOFO.

    650B version comes with BOOST spacing.

    130 mm suspension front and back. the REVELATION fork can be fitted with a new air shaft that extends the fork to 140 mm. that is not advertised, but more a feature of the Rockshox revelation than it is of the Specialized bike itself.

    The Revelation is the base model, without the fancy damper (RTC3?)

    The bike could probably accomodate 2.6 inch tires. 2.8 (plus) tires probably not, but plenty of clearance. the stock 2.3s looks small given the space available.

    The stock hubs are low end OEM DT Swiss Specialized rebranded, like many roval wheels.

    The stock tires are the light, thin sidewall control casing. Put more stans in their ASAP, i had stuff start leaking thru the thin sidewall when new. need to re-up Stans ASAP. the sidewalls are very thin and will "bleed" thru until properly worn in and sealed, more stans. if this happens, more stans, ride, and chill. they will probably seal.

    The Shimano M-506 brakes are I-spec B mount. i could mount a Wolf Tooth Dropper ReMote with the stock I-Spec B mounting just fine. FYI.

    The AutoSag is crap. IMO. it autosags too firm. I adjust myself anyways. From the factory, it appears they over lube the air can with this grey-ish blue goo. Fox shock lube. When you use the autosag, it blows this goo everywhere. a couple of drops worth. I am told after use, this doesnt happen any more. I dont know about you, i want to keep the lube in my shock. So Autosag doesnt work, and blows lube everywhere. great... yea never using it again. Dont worry, this is lube in the AIR CAN, not the DAMPER (much more important, if this is leaking DO NOT ride the bike). The Air can lube is just to lube the shock shaft, and teh seal surrounding it. important yes, but not a catastrophe should you lose a bit. In fact, its what keeps a thin film on the shaft of the shock, most shocks do this.

    That being said...a few people told me my shock was bad cause "too much lube is on the shaft...leaking from the factory." See above...its just due to the "factory over lube" and over time it will thin out, or level out to normal like any other bike. "chill" on this if it happens. ride bike worry less.

    I have personally found on the Revelation, i need to be less PSI than the manual states. Personal opinion. with the Shock, i am still experimenting perfect setting for plush and good sag/setting / psi for anti pedal bob.

    ____

    29er

    NO BOOST. I dont know why they did this. makes no sense. you would think 29 wheels would benefit from boost more than 650b

    120 MM travel FRONT AND BACK! 10 mm shorter than 650B. Also assuming you can add 10 mm to the fork with the air spring

    NO 1x11...2x10 setup stock. Also dont know why they did this. from a consumer standpoint most people want 1x11...they put 1x11 on the 650b its not like its too expensive to offer it on this model. silly to me.


    In general, amazing bike. Love it. "playful". I want to throw some 2.5 or new (coming out?) 2.6 inch tires on it ASAP to add more grip, a bit of size, and a bit of plushness to the wheels. I think 130 mm from and back is good enough for most riding. I like a bit of plushness on the rear when doing drops rather than the springiness of sub 120 mm. I definitely use the 130 mm in front.

    the geometry is "comfortable" but i started riding Specialized so it feels at home. Definitely a more lax, upright setup rather than the long, stretched feeling some bikes with a longer top tube have.

    the 68 degree on a 650b bike is not "aggressive" by todays standards which would be 66 or 67, pretty much spot of for a "medium or normal" trail bike. I would say the bike GREATLY benefits from a dropper post.

    BUY A DROPPER POST. few reasons:
    its a short bike - short chainstays etc. you dont have the length and big wheels of a 29er, get that weight BACK!

    68 degree head angle on a 650b isnt steep but not slack, if you dont some steep descents then again, a dropper really helps inspire confidence.

    Considering taking it to 140 mm front with a 2.6 tire, which may slacken the head angle a bit and see if that helps aggressive riding.

    in todays trend ridden world you may be nagged about having a bike that is not in either category - short travel 29er or long travel "all mountain / enduro" 650b, people look at this as a b**tardized trail bike that isnt either. Fact is, im 5'7 140 pounds and it fits really well, provising a small, lighter, nimble platform for me to learn how to flick the bike around, get better an manuals, wheelies, etc and i just dont feel comfy on a 29er really. The response is generally " just buy a 29er, and learn. you will like it after a while." okay. well, i love this bike now.

    It needs very little upgrades. Stock specialized components are great.

    i would say bump the fork out to 140 mm and throw some 2.6 inch times on it (perhaps 2.3,2.4 or 2.5 in back and a 2.5 or 2.6 in front to perhaps prop up the front end slightly and perhaps effectively slacken head angle a bit more) and this is one badddd trail bike.
    Thanks for the review. I'm assuming you have the aluminum frame since you didn't mention that it was carbon. If this is true, when you replaced the bb was it threaded or pressfit? Spec website lists the base camber as threaded but the comp aluminum as pressfit... Doesn't really make sense... Which is it?

    Thanks,

  23. #4423
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    Quote Originally Posted by BykerMike View Post
    Which is it?
    This is a carbon frame, see the SWAT-door in the pictures.

    Quote Originally Posted by ike_ View Post
    like a good portion of frames, getting that darn hose to do a near 90 degree upward bend to install a dropper post yourself is nearly impossible. bike shop had to take the bottom bracket off to perform the routing, and actually in the process replace the bottom bracket. FYI if you want to install a stealth dropper on this bike yourself, its a MOFO.
    Installing the hose for internal dropper post controlls is not that hard, at least on my 2016 alloy Camber Comp: Push the hose through from the front and let it exit the frame at the little service-cover just beneath the BB, where the hose for the rear derailleur comes out, too. Make a big loop so that you can re-enter the frame at the same cover and push the hose past the BB and into the seat tube. Pull it out at the top of the seat tube, grab it tightly at both ends and pull, so that the loop get's dissolved. Insert the inner cable and attach it to the dropper post, cut the hose accordingly.
    This can be done in about 15 minutes and without dismounting the BB.

  24. #4424
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    @ BykerMike - Yes its pressfit. My guess is that its because of Boost. Reading up, there are engineering reasons why modern geometry and boost are pushing bike companies to press fit. Something about it works better that way, some companies like Santa Cruz are making it a priority to keep threaded. If you notice, the more bike orgs push "progressive" things like Boost, the more they are using press-fit.

    So yes, my bike has a press fit 30. Most bikes i were looking at were PF30 or PF92.

    I should also clarify i went with the 650B for a few reasons aside from just fit / feel:

    Boost - i wanted to new standard. not like non boost is going away. Figured boost on 650b wheels would be uber stiff, even if i invest in crap wheels. I dont buy super awesome carbon wheels, so i figured any wheels i buy in the future which are "mid grade" will benefit from boost.

    Revelation - not a bad fork not a GREAT fork. mid grade. some ay flexy, some say not. depends on type of riding and rider. Coming from a non boost, 26er, fox 32 with quick release, to a 650b revelation, thru axle BOOST - HUGE upgrade in stiffness. massive.

    However, with reports of flexy fork, i decided a 650b would be more stiff than 29er. and lighter.

    i should mention i dont ride hard and im about 140 lbs. so not that this is an issue either.

    _____________________________-

    @frerk14 - dude i tried. no avail. the guy in the bike shop looked at my bike and told me it would be hard. I said id buy a 6 pack and hopefully in an hour id get it. he said "you better make it a 12 -18 pack. can tell you right now thats not an easy job without taking off the BB".

    the 2017 models have 100% internal routing. not sure if thats different than the 2016. it doesnt run down the bottom tube and into the plastic peice where the brake cable goes, under the BB. it runs into the front of the bike, down the entire down tube, and up into the seat tube.

    I tried forever. getting the hose to make that 90* turn was about impossible and i was ruining the hose pushing so hard. Gave up. it was a 20 min job and about 20 bucks labor for the bike shop to do it - just rip the BB off real quick. I use a couple of really good / fast mechanics.

    perhaps i just suck at these skills, just forewarning.

    I would much rather overhaul a whole drivetrain myself than route that darn hose. Heck, i could probably overhaul a whole drivetrain in a "6 pack of beer" worth of town and no cussing.

    I told the bike shop " overhaul a drivetrain from 2x10 to 1x11 or install a dropper... i guess installing a stealth dropper is easier." Response was "you guessed wrong". (many bikes i was looking at had a dropper stock but a 2x10...so this was an alternative)

  25. #4425
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    Quote Originally Posted by ike_ View Post
    @frerk14 - dude i tried...
    I can only describe what I did with my 2016 alloy model facing the same problem. My LBS told me it wouldn't be possible without dismounting the BB and that would take some time and wouldn't come cheap. So I took a shot for myself and I could work it out this way.
    Maybe the carbon frame is different around the BB or maybe they changed sth from 2016 to 2017. I don't know. Just trying to give a hint for an easy solution, maybe someone find's it useful.
    And BTW: I'm with you on the Revelation and the dropper-post-upgrade in general.

  26. #4426
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    I installed and routed my dropper cable internally all the way on my 2016 Camber alloy 650b. It wasn't hard routing down the down tube and up the seat tube. I was told about the bottom bracket needing to come out too, not neccessary. Routing was the easiest part, cutting the cable and housing for final fit was the part that made me nervous.
    2016 Specialized Camber 27.5

  27. #4427
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    after reading about other bikes recently, comments about wanting a dropper post for bikes with steeper seat angles, like 74/75 degrees. That helps for climbing, but going down can make youp retty weight forward on the bike.

    I think that helps normally for a centered, snappy bike with the short chainstays, short wheelbase on the 650B, but i think thats part of the reason why a dropper transformed the bike. not sure i took the seat angle into consideration. I was feeling it, i just didnt know how to pin-point it.

    long story short - droppers are friggin awesome just buy one.

  28. #4428
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    New update -
    Demo'ed a 27.5+ Pivot recently. Most fun ive had on a bike in a long time!

    2.6 inch wide tires are coming out in 2017. Some Specialized pro riders are fitting 2.8 Plus tires on their standard 29-30 MM internal width stock Roval wheels.

    Technically, they is probably just enough clearance to turn a stock Camber 2017 650B boost into a plus bike. Doing this with 29MM rims is a debated topic, but some riders are doing it successfully. it will definitely fit 2.6. i can say as soon and most quality tires come out in 2.6 im pulling the trigger ASAP.

    This camber in 2.6 or 2.8 plus tires would be a monster. add in the new air spring for 140 mm of fork travel. oh baby.

    Very excited. also even happier in my decision to take the 650B boosted option to take advantage of these things.

    the plus tires just made such a difference in traction i cant believe it. I'm making very effort to put the fattest tire possible on my bikes.

  29. #4429
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    Plus tires wont clear the seat stays on the Camber 650b. I have a set of 2.8's and they match the ID between seat stays, the 2.6's should fit but it'll be tight.

  30. #4430
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    Plus tires wont clear the seat stays on the Camber 650b. I have a set of 2.8's and they match the ID between seat stays, the 2.6's should fit but it'll be tight.
    Are you on a 2016 Camber? I'm curious about getting bigger tires on my '16 alloy Camber 650b. Rolling the stock 2.3's right now. What's the biggest that will fit on stock rims and within the rear triangle?
    2016 Specialized Camber 27.5

  31. #4431
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    Yes on a 2016. Not sure what the biggest that will fit. There is about 1/2" clearance on the sidewalls, 3/8" clearance near side knobs and 1/4" from the brace to OD of tire. The chainstay seems to have a bit more room.

    I'm waiting to see what fits before ordering ~100 worth of tires.

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    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    Yes on a 2016. Not sure what the biggest that will fit. There is about 1/2" clearance on the sidewalls, 3/8" clearance near side knobs and 1/4" from the brace to OD of tire. The chainstay seems to have a bit more room.

    I'm waiting to see what fits before ordering ~100 worth of tires.
    I'm on a 2017. they will definitely fit a 2.6. if you read some of the articles about some of the other specialized bikes like the 2017 enduro, they are fitting 2.8 with the boost spacing.

    i cant tell for certain, but my 650B boost 2017 camber has sooo much room with 2.3s on it. i wouldnt doubt 2.8 plus tires would fit.

    my biggest hesitation is the 29-30mm roval rims. as stated, some are mounting 2.8s on these. im skeptical. 2.6s should be fine.

  33. #4433
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    What do the 2.3" stock Purgatory and Ground Control tyres measure?
    Last edited by BykerMike; 1 Week Ago at 08:31 PM.

  34. #4434
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    Both come back 58mm/2.28".

    Im not trying to be negative, but I dont think B+ tires will work on the 650B Camber. They may have widened the dropouts, but I really doubt they redesigned the whole rear triangle/tubeset on the second year of a new model.

    I think 2.6's will probably fit fine, but the OD of a B+ tire is different than a regular big 650B as I understand it.

  35. #4435
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    Quote Originally Posted by akaBrowntown View Post
    Both come back 58mm/2.28".

    Im not trying to be negative, but I dont think B+ tires will work on the 650B Camber. They may have widened the dropouts, but I really doubt they redesigned the whole rear triangle/tubeset on the second year of a new model.

    I think 2.6's will probably fit fine, but the OD of a B+ tire is different than a regular big 650B as I understand it.
    Read this
    Industry Bike Check: Sebastian Maag's Specialized Enduro EVO | ENDURO Mountainbike Magazine

    Looks like at least the rear can do 2.6 and 2.8 will barely fit on a NON-BOOST bike. So with boost factor in a lil bit more. Perhaps the rear cant get a 2.8 but the fork can?

    So goes back to the original question- with the 29mm roval rims be okay with 2.8 tires? I guess its a gamble.

    Doing 2.8 from 2.6 rear would be interesting, probably slacken head angle slightly

  36. #4436
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    Yea, I can mount up some Trail Blazers next week to check but quick measurements say no dice on 2.8's out back. As far as fork it depends, plenty of people with non-boost 650b pikes running plus tires, so I think you are in the clear.

    As far as 30mm is concerned I don't think you will have an issue. I want to say the original B+ SJ and Fuse came with 30mm rims, but I'm sure they bumped it for a reason.

  37. #4437
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    Stupid question but I am going to ask... Has anyone used a stumpy linkage (or something)to up the travel? My son is wanting more travel but really likes his camber. We may have to sell and go to a stumpy I suppose.

  38. #4438
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    Camber seatstays aren't compatible with the Stumpy linkage.

    Have you just tried upping the fork 10-20mm? It makes a big difference.

  39. #4439
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    So here is clearance on a 2.8 Trailblazer on a 22mm rim. No one would actually use it like this, but I wasnt going to mess with wheels already setup tubeless. There might be 1mm between the seatstay bridge.



    Here is the difference between a 40mm id rim.


    And here is the difference in height between the two rim widths. Where the 2.8 on the 22mm rim is a little bit bigger diameter than most 27.5's, on a 40mm rim the plus tire is quite a bit wider (obviously) and taller - and would definitely hit the seat-stay bridge.



    There's plenty of clearance for 2.6's, but plus tires on a proper rim would definitely hit the bridge.

  40. #4440
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    Picked up a 17 camber comp carbon for the wife a few days ago. Cambers are awesome bikes.


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    So, who has bigger tires on stock camber rims? Pictures? Size and what tire? Looking to go 2.5 or 2.6 maybe. Does it make a difference on the stock rim (22mm I guess) to go bigger tires? New to this whole tire discussion.
    2016 Specialized Camber 27.5

  42. #4442
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    The 22mm was just a rim I had laying around to throw the plus tire on. All stock Cambers have either 29mm or 30mm id, aluminum and carbon respectively.

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    Just picked up a new to me 2016 Specialized Camber Comp Carbon 650b. This is my first full suspension and non entry level mountain bike. Anyone have any tips on proper suspension setup? Also does anyone have a pdf version of the owners manual for the 2016? i found the 2017 model, so i doubt much has changed.

    Anything else i should know, please let me know!

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    The 2016 manual is for all of the FSR bikes collectively. It's available on line. The right suspension setup is a matter of personal preference and terrain, but a good starting point is BW in pounds for the shock pressure (psi) and half BW for the fork. Then, adjust to get 15-20% sag in the fork and 20-30% in the back sitting on the bike fully loaded. (Most FSR riders I know tend toward the high end of that range, but YMMV.) Note that the stroke length for FSR shocks is often different from what it looks like if you just look at the piston length. Shock sag should be measured relative to the 650b Camber stroke length of 53mm. Write down your settings, and see how it performs in a variety terrain and adjust accordingly. Don't use the autosag function except for the initial ride, perhaps, as it's inconsistent. If you do use it on the initial ride (pump to 2xBW+50 and depress and hold autosag button once), measure your sag and pressure, so you know where you are starting. The manual provides starting rebound damper settings based on your weight.

    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

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    Looking to upgrade my fork on my 2016 Camber from the stock revelation to either a Pike or Fox 34. I can't decide if I want to go with 140mm or 150mm fork? I know the changes to geometry that would occur. Has anyone done this and if so, how does the bike feel afterwards?

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