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  1. #3501
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    I've got a 120 Pike on my Camber comp. Didn't feel like it changed the geo much, not noticeably. But that Pike eats up rocks. From the Reba it's a whole different bike. It descends like an animal now. I love the Pike.
    Live to Fish, now Love to Ride

  2. #3502
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    I'm actually considering getting a 120 or 130mm pike for my Camber Comp. For next xmas. But since my 120mm Revelation works so good it's hard to motivate the cost of exchanging of what I have.

  3. #3503
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikybiky View Post
    Hope you like!!
    only waiting for my BOR crank and gonna tune some small parts.
    Here in Holland riding XC, there for the XC set-up but when going to the Alps or Dolomites the commandpost and a shorter less steaper stem will go on it
    Sick bike. I have a blue Camber 110mm carbon that I built up with a RS SID 120mm. It is a sweet bike. The Camber and SID is much more lively than I thought it would be.

    Mine is a medium and weighs about 25lbs but I can drop it to 24.5lbs with a tire change.

  4. #3504
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    Thanks everyone. I ordered a camber elite with the revelation fork. I just honestly don't need more travel on the local trails. Most of my time is actually spent on a rigid singlespeed. The trails are rough and covered with roots, but there's not much that would come close to bottoming 110mm of travel.

    I also got a set of new wheels from the same shop while I was ordering. Roval Traverse SL Fattie for my rigid SS Salsa El Mariachi. Should be fun!

  5. #3505
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    I think the latest generation of Revelation Forks can be easily adjusted to different travel lengths. Similar to the Pike via internal spacers. I considered buying a 130mm Rev and having the option of lowering it to 120 or 110 if it's not to my liking.

  6. #3506
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    Quote Originally Posted by coke View Post
    Thanks everyone. I ordered a camber elite with the revelation fork. I just honestly don't need more travel on the local trails. Most of my time is actually spent on a rigid singlespeed. The trails are rough and covered with roots, but there's not much that would come close to bottoming 110mm of travel.

    I also got a set of new wheels from the same shop while I was ordering. Roval Traverse SL Fattie for my rigid SS Salsa El Mariachi. Should be fun!
    Congratulations! Ride it, love it, and don't worry about it. I have the Traverse SL wheels as well, on my Camber. Absolutely love them.

    This weekend I tried out a new tire combo: Butcher 2.3 on the front, FastTrak 2.2 on the rear. My buddy called it the "Uber-mullet". I was on GC f&R before, so it took a little getting used to. There were a couple of places where I washed out the rear (mainly going up a climb with a large buffed root), but I lowered the pressure a bit more and it was great. At the same time I was getting used to the Butcher and trusting it enough to just lean over into turns. Having that confidence in the front let me lean the bike over and get the FT in the rear to bite in as well. I think I ended up running ~17psi in both (200lbs kitted up).

    Overall, the combination was a blast, rolled better than the GCs and the Butcher bit in better for cornering. I really wish they were a bit wider. Maybe 2.5 Butcher w/2.4 FastTrak. I'll be trying out a 2.4 Ardent/2.35 Ikon setup and will report back. Once they're in and I've gotten some rides on them.

  7. #3507
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    The 2.4 Ardent is awesome and I use it for 80% of my riding. I use it on regular trails loose over hard mostly. But when going faster pointed down I always use the Butcher 2.3. The 2.4 Ardent EXO is heavier and slower rolling (like a fatbike tire) and it has transition knobs that allows you to lean half way over without worry of it breaking loose at the wrong time. The Ardent has less bite when leaned over at full speed - that's the Butchers forte' and the butcher spins up faster too. imho. I use both on diff trails.

    I like the Ardent 2.25 in my rear tire but use a higher volume tire when taking on 1-3 foot drops.

  8. #3508
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    I'm currently running a 2.5 Minion DHF on the front and a 2.35 Ikon on the rear of my singlespeed. This is my favorite tire combo and the DHF rolls surprisingly well. The local trail has a lot of small loose rocks over hardpack, and the DHF has saved me numerous times. On trails where I don't need that level of grip on the front, the Ikons front and rear work really well. They are fast but also have big lugs on the sides for cornering. If I don't like the stock tires on the camber, I'll most likely try Ikon 2.35 front & rear.

  9. #3509
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    My LBS recently had a sale so I ordered a tennis ball yellow '15 Camber Evo 29 cant wait.

  10. #3510
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    Icon is a rear tire by design I thought, I have two friends with icon on the rear.
    I demoed a bike with the dhf and was good on the rocks and DH sectiins, until it hit some grave-like-loose rocks over hard pack, the tire just slid out from under me while going in a straight line. lol
    Went back to that trail section 1 hour later with my 2.4 Ardent exo up front and tried to force it to slip but it wouldn't. I rode my Butcher on that type of loose stuff and it slipped a bit more than the 2.4 Ardent also. So gravel I guess isn't tire friendly. LoL
    I'm not sure why but that's how it went down. LoL

  11. #3511
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    The 2.35 Ikon is a completely different tire than the smaller version.

  12. #3512
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    I run the butcher/slaughter on my camber. the butcher really sticks and the slaughter has a great combo of traction and rolling resistance.

  13. #3513
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    Has anyone here ever replaced all of there fsr frame pivot bearings? I just purchased some from england, 70 bucks.
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  14. #3514
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    Hello riders,does anyone have sound coming from pivots like this? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SD-u...ature=youtu.be
    where is the problem?

  15. #3515
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    Official Specialized Camber Thread-20140913_102341.jpg

  16. #3516
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    Someone asked so here's the info on the 120mm Pike:

    Part number for 120mm Pike, Not a resized unit, and a short description:

    AM FS PIKE RCT3 2915 SA120 DFBLK51TCRN

  17. #3517
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    Im pulling the trigger on a RS Revo 120mm, I was thinking of going with a pike but I feel that will be overkill, I found a rst3 for 600 bucks and free shipping, seems like a deal to me. With the money I am saving I was thinking of buying a new head set since im still on the original one (not that its giving me problems or anything) Any clue what I should get?
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  18. #3518
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail_Blazer View Post
    Icon is a rear tire by design I thought, I have two friends with icon on the rear.
    I demoed a bike with the dhf and was good on the rocks and DH sectiins, until it hit some grave-like-loose rocks over hard pack, the tire just slid out from under me while going in a straight line. lol
    Went back to that trail section 1 hour later with my 2.4 Ardent exo up front and tried to force it to slip but it wouldn't. I rode my Butcher on that type of loose stuff and it slipped a bit more than the 2.4 Ardent also. So gravel I guess isn't tire friendly. LoL
    I'm not sure why but that's how it went down. LoL
    Sounds like you had a bad case of "too much grip". It's happened to me on loose/gravely (or leaves) where the tires grip the loose surface enough to rip it off of the ground beneath. Delightfully fun.

  19. #3519
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    Quote Originally Posted by themtbcat View Post
    I run the butcher/slaughter on my camber. the butcher really sticks and the slaughter has a great combo of traction and rolling resistance.
    How well does the Slaughter roll compared to a Ground Control? Faster or slower? By how much? Thanks!

  20. #3520
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    Speaking of forks, I picked up a reba 120 for my 13' camber comp last year, and decided to do the RCT3 upgrade this winter along with the shimmed rebound assembly w/dig valve. Huge upgrade to the fork IMO. The small/mid bump compliance improved dramatically, and it soaks up big hits with no problem. The fork feels planted to ground, and the extra adjustments have been a welcome addition to fine tuning the ride. If you've been considering it, it's well worth it IMO, the RCT3 is a big upgrade over the stock damper. I would do it again without question after the improvements I've felt.

  21. #3521
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    Getting close to upgrading my fork. I'm definitely sold on RockShox, but could you explain exactly what RCT3 means compared to the base Reba model?

    I'm looking at a 120mm SID or Reba. The Reba seems like you get better bang for the buck but the SID I'm looking at is a RCT3 model and a bit more expensive. I don't mind spending a few extra bucks if I am getting a much superior product.

    Thanks.

    Quote Originally Posted by Erock503 View Post
    Speaking of forks, I picked up a reba 120 for my 13' camber comp last year, and decided to do the RCT3 upgrade this winter along with the shimmed rebound assembly w/dig valve. Huge upgrade to the fork IMO. The small/mid bump compliance improved dramatically, and it soaks up big hits with no problem. The fork feels planted to ground, and the extra adjustments have been a welcome addition to fine tuning the ride. If you've been considering it, it's well worth it IMO, the RCT3 is a big upgrade over the stock damper. I would do it again without question after the improvements I've felt.

  22. #3522
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    Not the OP, but I ran a Fast Track on the rear for a while and have now run a Slaughter on the rear for about 150 miles now. The only difference...cornering is much more efficient with the Slaughter. So...I would imagine the Slaughter is much faster then a Ground Control. I'd highly recommend a Slaughter on the rear for any terrain.

    Quote Originally Posted by jester6578 View Post
    How well does the Slaughter roll compared to a Ground Control? Faster or slower? By how much? Thanks!

  23. #3523
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jennings6 View Post
    Getting close to upgrading my fork. I'm definitely sold on RockShox, but could you explain exactly what RCT3 means compared to the base Reba model?

    I'm looking at a 120mm SID or Reba. The Reba seems like you get better bang for the buck but the SID I'm looking at is a RCT3 model and a bit more expensive. I don't mind spending a few extra bucks if I am getting a much superior product.

    Thanks.
    This thread will explain a lot, it's a much better design compared to the stock damper.

    Converting Reba RL 29 to RCT3 (solo air, 2014)

  24. #3524
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    Wanted - New / Lightly Used - 2015 Specialized Camber Elite Carbon 29 - Size XL

    Looking for a New / Lightly Used 2015 Specialized Camber Elite Carbon 29 - Size XL; unfortunately Specialized seems to have stopped production, and every bike store I've checked with in Marin seems to be out of stock??

    If anyone knows a store that stocks this model please let me know, thanks!!

  25. #3525
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    Okay for about a 100 bucks more I can get a Pike instead of the Revelation. is there any real gains with the pike in a 120mm. the only reason im thinking of going with the pike is if I upgrade my frame one day to a expert carbon evo.
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  26. #3526
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    Quote Originally Posted by marinmtb View Post
    Looking for a New / Lightly Used 2015 Specialized Camber Elite Carbon 29 - Size XL; unfortunately Specialized seems to have stopped production, and every bike store I've checked with in Marin seems to be out of stock??

    If anyone knows a store that stocks this model please let me know, thanks!!
    Not much time left but here is one on ebay
    2015 Specialized Camber Elite Carbon XL | eBay
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  27. #3527
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    Quote Originally Posted by sml-2727 View Post
    Okay for about a 100 bucks more I can get a Pike instead of the Revelation. is there any real gains with the pike in a 120mm. the only reason im thinking of going with the pike is if I upgrade my frame one day to a expert carbon evo.
    $100?? Please explain where you find that price.
    Last summer when I bought my revelation 450 dollars the cheapest apply to be found even on ebay was way over 700 dollars used 8 or 900 new.

  28. #3528
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail_Blazer View Post
    $100?? Please explain where you find that price.
    Last summer when I bought my revelation 450 dollars the cheapest apply to be found even on ebay was way over 700 dollars used 8 or 900 new.
    Worldwidecyclery on ebay, they have a make offer tab so I offered something real low and they shot me back with a price of under 750 for the pike and 605 for the rev, so yeah my math is wrong more like 150 more for the pike.
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  29. #3529
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    You should compare the models there are 3 levels of options and they each feature level model get diff prices.

    Regular base model Revelation can be close to $500 while the full featured dual mode Rev is closer to $750.
    The base model Pike is around $700 and full featured unit $100 and up.

    Check SRAM website and sites like Price point to be sure the eBay price is legit for the unit you want.
    Last edited by Trail_Blazer; 05-11-2015 at 06:50 AM.

  30. #3530
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    SML-2727, thank you so much for the heads up, I was able to win that auction and acquire the bike I was looking for!

  31. #3531
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    Quote Originally Posted by marinmtb View Post
    SML-2727, thank you so much for the heads up, I was able to win that auction and acquire the bike I was looking for!
    Thats great man! have fun.
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  32. #3532
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-img_20150507_172354.jpg

    Just about done. I've added the enve handlebars and saved a few oz's. I rode the Rock-it trail in Southern Cali this weekend, and this bike was a champ!

  33. #3533
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    What all you do to it? What year is it?

  34. #3534
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    Hi all. Bought a camber evo. Pretty new to the bicycle scene. Rode enduro (motorized that is) for many years. I'm a light weight kind of guy and I have some difficulty getting the front wheel off ground, now that I don't have a engine to help me.. I figured a shorter stem could help. The only one my LBS can order is the PRO Athertons 35mm for $140. No web shop in Sweden have it in stock, and frankly I find it a bit expensive (I'll buy it if necessary).

    Do you guys have a tip for a short stem? Or, will the 30mm or so shorter than the standard not make much difference?

    On another note: I love the bike, compared to my old hardtail

    Thanks in advance, and have a nice day.

  35. #3535
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thensome View Post
    Hi all. Bought a camber evo. Pretty new to the bicycle scene. Rode enduro (motorized that is) for many years. I'm a light weight kind of guy and I have some difficulty getting the front wheel off ground, now that I don't have a engine to help me.. I figured a shorter stem could help. The only one my LBS can order is the PRO Athertons 35mm for $140. No web shop in Sweden have it in stock, and frankly I find it a bit expensive (I'll buy it if necessary).

    Do you guys have a tip for a short stem? Or, will the 30mm or so shorter than the standard not make much difference?

    On another note: I love the bike, compared to my old hardtail

    Thanks in advance, and have a nice day.
    30mm shorter stem will make a huge difference in steering, handling and also help with getting the front wheel up. So much so that it might be too big of a jump, especially for $140. Unless you can return it, I would not chance that.

    Without regard to the stem length being right or wrong for you and your riding style, the inability to lift the front might come from timing and experience too. I've ridden bikes too big, too small, with long and short stems and I have always been able to lift and move the front wheel around. I suggest take some time to develop that particular skill before spending your hard earned money. I no way am I trying to offend you or suggest you do not know how to ride, but like anything it might just be this one skill set that needs a little practice, seeing as you are new to cycling.

    PS. You have a great bike to start with and learn.

  36. #3536
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    30mm shorter stem will make a huge difference in steering, handling and also help with getting the front wheel up. So much so that it might be too big of a jump, especially for $140. Unless you can return it, I would not chance that.

    Without regard to the stem length being right or wrong for you and your riding style, the inability to lift the front might come from timing and experience too. I've ridden bikes too big, too small, with long and short stems and I have always been able to lift and move the front wheel around. I suggest take some time to develop that particular skill before spending your hard earned money. I no way am I trying to offend you or suggest you do not know how to ride, but like anything it might just be this one skill set that needs a little practice, seeing as you are new to cycling.

    PS. You have a great bike to start with and learn.
    I agree with previous guy. Just give it some time and see if things improve. The shorter stem will make some difference, but you should be able to lift your front regardless of stem length.


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  37. #3537
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    When you try to lift the front wheel, where is your butt positioned?
    is it behind the seat over the rear axle of the tire (floating in the air)...
    The Camber in size Large is usually setup with 90mm stems.

    Watch videos on how to pull and hold a wheelie on a mtb, these full body movements help a lot to make it easier to get the front up and keep it up.
    Last edited by Trail_Blazer; 05-13-2015 at 10:08 PM.

  38. #3538
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail_Blazer View Post
    When you try to lift the front wheel, where is your butt positioned?
    Thanks for the tips guys. I am as far back as I can. I only weigh 62kg (136.7 pounds), and am 175 cm tall/short. 5 feet 9 inch (maybe, confusing imperial system) I have a medium frame.

  39. #3539
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    If you sit on the bike on level ground and lean back far enough the wheel will lift and if you don't balance yourself you'll fall over backwards. Getting the front end up is all about leverage based on your body position and attitude and balance. Doing 20 pushups a day is all the strength you should need in your arms.
    Basically it's like doing a bunny hop while shifting weight behind your seatpost.
    It can be hard to do if your seat is too high.

  40. #3540
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    It's possible your seat is in the way, or stem too long, making it harder to put your body into the correct leveraging position.

  41. #3541
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    Official Specialized Camber Thread

    Woohoo this showed up today:


  42. #3542
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    Recently got an Evo the same as bk_mtb's with the RS RC 29 fork, the guy in the shop said the compression dial should be either fully open or fully closed, and not to ride it with the dial half way.
    Is it just a straight on/off lock on the compression dial, as it seems to have a 'click' position about 1/3 round?

    (And is it worth replacing the damper with an RCT3 damper like 11.4015.544.270 ?)

    Thanks

  43. #3543
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    Really enjoying my new elite. It's perfect for my local trails and I'm glad I got this over the evo. Lots of tight switchbacks, no drops, and only a few small jumps. I'm amazed at how well it climbs. I usually ride a rigid singlespeed and am used to super efficient climbing, but I almost never feel the need to lock out the shocks. I typically leave the rear in trail mode and the front open. Amazing bike!

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-20150516_102517.jpg

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-20150516_104604.jpg

  44. #3544
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    Any news for Camber 2016? Will we see SWAT-door and brain?

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    No, the Camber (like the Enduro) will probably not see major changes for the 2016 model year. The Camber was redone more recently than the Stumpy to begin with.

    They do the bike models design changes in staggered years. This follows the same pattern that auto makers established years ago.

    It allows them to focus on each model rather than try to update several at once. It is too demanding on resources to change several at the same time.

    Look for changes in the 2017 or 2018 model year.

  46. #3546
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpd131 View Post
    30mm shorter stem will make a huge difference in steering, handling and also help with getting the front wheel up.
    I went to a 110mm stem with a 10° rise trying to alleviate some pain in my hands. I did manage to get some relief, though it made my steering less precise and I had to learn to adjust. An unexpected side effect was that it made my front end significantly easier get up and over thing.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk

  47. #3547
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trail_Blazer View Post
    It's possible your seat is in the way, or stem too long, making it harder to put your body into the correct leveraging position.
    Exactly that's why it's harder for people who aren't so tall. I myself have to yank the handlebar(besides getting my weight back as far as I can) to get the front end up. The chainstays on this bike are too long for "medium and small" riders.

    A shorter stem does help. I changed the stem to a 40mm Renthal Apex.

  48. #3548
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    A trick for those who don't already know (requires a bike with a suspension for):

    When trying to wheelie a hard to lift bike, start by actually compressing (preloading) the fork with the upper body, then apply pedaling power and pop back with the arms and upper body.

    The compression and subsequent rebound from the fork can help get a stubborn bike up a bit more easily.

  49. #3549
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dusty Trails View Post
    I went to a 110mm stem with a 10° rise trying to alleviate some pain in my hands. I did manage to get some relief, though it made my steering less precise and I had to learn to adjust. An unexpected side effect was that it made my front end significantly easier get up and over thing.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    I had hand pain too - but after getting an Easton EC70 Carbon Riser Handlebar my hand pain is pretty much gone.

  50. #3550
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    Quote Originally Posted by plupp View Post
    Any news for Camber 2016? Will we see SWAT-door and brain?
    If you want a brain get the Epic. The brain is not on the Stumpjumper any longer and I doubt they would put it on the Camber. All models for the 2016 year will be "EVO" but the name will be dropped.

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