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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmckechnie
    Solution:

    When you upgrade the fork, get one with a thru axle and then buy a wheelset with a thru axle hub. I agree that it is a downfall. Hopefully one day all bikes will be thru axle bikes (front and rear) as well as tapered head tubes.
    That is a solution but my pro already has the fox, so no need to upgrade The thru axle would be great but I'm not going to spend 600+ or so just to get a thru axle. Even if I resold the used 9mm fox, I'd have to invest at least $300 out of pocket. At that point I should have just gone with a stumpy or epic expert....

  2. #402
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    That's true. Hopefully 5 years from now 9mm QR and 1.125 inch will be dead.

  3. #403
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    Head tube angles

    Noticed something interesting tonight. The HTA for the 26 cambers are a lot slacker than the 29 cambers. And the difference between the HTAs on the Cambers is bigger than the difference for the Stumpjumper or Epic:

    Stumpy 26: 68.5
    Stumpy 29: 69.5
    Camber 26: 68.5
    Camber 29: 70
    Epic 26: 70
    Epic 29: 70.5

    In other words, Camber 26s have the same HTA as Stumpy 26s, which surprises me, and Camber 29s have the same HTA as Epic 26s, which also surprises me. (Bums me out a little, actually).

    I'm guessing two things are at work:
    1. Bigger wheels compensate for steeper HTAs on descents, to some extent, and
    2. A 29er with a slack HTA might be a barge (longer wheelbase).

  4. #404
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    hi guys! im relatively new here.
    got a specialized camber comp 26er with a few upgrades.




    upgrades:
    fox 32 f120 fit rlc
    deore xt crankset
    deore xt 9 speed shifters
    deore xt 9 speed cogs
    deore xt rd shadow long cage
    crank brothers candy pedals

    would save up for a cockpit and wheelset upgrade.
    i still haven't weighed it yet but i hope i've shaved a few pounds from how it weighed before

  5. #405
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    Why not just buy the Pro?

  6. #406
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    dumb@ss question time ...

    what tyres is everyone running on their camber 29ers? can't say i'm overly impressed with the stock ones ... looking at the rear tyre, there doesn't seem like there is an awful lot of clearance for anything much bigger than the stock 2.0 size ...

    in the meantime i'll double check the pressures and see if that helps them stick a bit better ...
    "old enough to know better. too old to care."

  7. #407
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    I have the stock front and a maxxis ignitor on the rear. I replaced the rear to save weight, not because I had any deep insights about its performance.

  8. #408
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    Just started running the ikon on my pro. Works very well so far. Saved about a half pound, and is a 2.2 vs. stock 2.0.

    Off topic, what is the difference in strength between a 15mm thru axle and the dt rws 10mm thru bolt w/ os end caps. I would think it must be close in stiffness. Spesh only users it on the expert and pro. Does anyone have proven science on the difference in stiffness. I mean at what point does the axle size stop adding stiffness and just start adding weight. Never really thought about it till I swapped the stock wheels for my crests with AC hubs. That rws system seems pretty comparable vs. a thru axle setup for the most part.

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldManBike
    Noticed something interesting tonight. The HTA for the 26 cambers are a lot slacker than the 29 cambers. And the difference between the HTAs on the Cambers is bigger than the difference for the Stumpjumper or Epic:

    Stumpy 26: 68.5
    Stumpy 29: 69.5
    Camber 26: 68.5
    Camber 29: 70
    Epic 26: 70
    Epic 29: 70.5

    In other words, Camber 26s have the same HTA as Stumpy 26s, which surprises me, and Camber 29s have the same HTA as Epic 26s, which also surprises me. (Bums me out a little, actually).

    I'm guessing two things are at work:
    1. Bigger wheels compensate for steeper HTAs on descents, to some extent, and
    2. A 29er with a slack HTA might be a barge (longer wheelbase).
    29 inch wheels raise the front end which has the effect of increasing trail. So a steeper head angle is used to reduce trail (bring it back in line with the 26er).

    29er forks usually have more offset than 26 to keep the trail about the same.

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoogie
    what tyres is everyone running on their camber 29ers? can't say i'm overly impressed with the stock ones ... looking at the rear tyre, there doesn't seem like there is an awful lot of clearance for anything much bigger than the stock 2.0 size ...

    in the meantime i'll double check the pressures and see if that helps them stick a bit better ...
    I thought the Captains were pretty well regarded. I was going to swap my maxxis ignitors over, but I think I like the captains better.

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by kwrides
    Why not just buy the Pro?
    He probably had those parts already.

  12. #412
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    I picked up a second hand Camber frame on eBay and used a combination of old and new parts to get it together.

    It's a size Large and comes in at 26.5lbs as you see it here.
    XT 10 speed Dynasys group set
    The wheels are Roval AL (1545gr per set)
    Rocket Ron tyres are 430gr each!

    Amazing bike, super fast accelerating and climbs like a beast!








  13. #413
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    I'm digging the looks of the chain guide. Where'd you pick that up?

    Need to find a down tube fender like that as well for the continued monsoon season.

  14. #414
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    Chain guide is a MRP G2 SL and it's a Crud Catcher fender which nearly bolts straight on (the bottom hole in the crud catcher is already there, you just line it up and have to drill a single 4mm hole in the top). Further more the fender kinda hides some of the cables as well.

  15. #415
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asta
    He probably had those parts already.
    yup had the fork, shifters and rd already. just got the chaiwheels.

    Will save up for a wheelset. I am just contemplating to build a wheelset or to buy a built.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by Divino
    yup had the fork, shifters and rd already. just got the chaiwheels.

    Will save up for a wheelset. I am just contemplating to build a wheelset or to buy a built.
    If you end up buying a wheel set then consider the Specialized Roval range of wheels. I have been running a set of Rovals on my 2011 Enduro since December doing really rough trails, jumps, drops, etc. and they are still true as day one. They are the reason I went for the Roval ALs on my Camber. I couldn't find a wheel set as light for the price over here. They are also tubeless/UST and best of all they ship with a limited lifetime warranty.

  17. #417
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    Frogger nice touch with the mrp, I love mine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Specialized Camber Thread-229508_10150173887021933_566276932_7151135_4800882_n.jpg  


  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhmatt
    Frogger nice touch with the mrp, I love mine.
    I am surprised that more people don't run them. Clean looking, dead easy to fit and simplicity in itself.

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by frogger
    I am surprised that more people don't run them. Clean looking, dead easy to fit and simplicity in itself.
    I set up all my bike 1x9 36t

  20. #420
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    Quote Originally Posted by frogger
    I am surprised that more people don't run them. Clean looking, dead easy to fit and simplicity in itself.
    Any chance it will take the 38T and bash from the stock S-2200 crank set on my Pro? Looks like the hash marks end at 36T from your pics.

    I've been kicking around the idea of the Traverse ALs as replacement wheels. Just knocked my front 420SL out of true last week. Didn't take long...

  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sid Nitzerglobin
    I'm digging the looks of the chain guide.
    Me too, looks great!

  22. #422
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    Forgot to post these over here

    Added some Straitline flats, moved the MK SS 2.4 to the rear wheel, and put a Trail King 2.4 up front.



    Need to look into that chain guide or failing that removing a link or so. Dropped my chain 3 times in the last 2 rides while I was on the 38T ring w/ no shifting involved.

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sid Nitzerglobin
    Any chance it will take the 38T and bash from the stock S-2200 crank set on my Pro? Looks like the hash marks end at 36T from your pics.

    I've been kicking around the idea of the Traverse ALs as replacement wheels. Just knocked my front 420SL out of true last week. Didn't take long...
    The MRP chain guide comes in 2 sizes, the one I am using is 32-36 and then there is a 36-40.

  24. #424
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    Quote Originally Posted by frogger
    The MRP chain guide comes in 2 sizes, the one I am using is 32-36 and then there is a 36-40.
    Nice! Time to go hunt one down

  25. #425
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    I just picked up the 2011 Camber Elite and love it. Great ride compared to what I had.

  26. #426
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    How do you like those pedals SID? I need to upgrade from my old school red line pedals, the are heavy!!!

    I also think I'm gonna sell my command post, just not using it like I thought I would. Not worth the weight penalty if I don't use it. If anyone is interested in one lmk.

    I've had to true my 520's twice already....those stock wheels are junk, however they work if I want to switch them out for some abuse type rides, when I know I'll be straining my crests...

  27. #427
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    They're working pretty damn well so far. Picked up a set of 5.10 Impacts to go w/ them and I've yet to have a foot come off that wasn't related to my lack of flat riding technique (this seems to be steadily improving however, made my first unconnected, log clearing bunny hop on the trails this Saturday ). Readjusting your foot position does require a little bit of lifting and jimmying of the foot, but the need to do so has seemed to go down significantly as I get used to just putting my foot in a good spot in the first place.

    They will scratch the hell out of you if you take one in the shin or calf, but haven't had an issue w/ the shins of yet (knock on wood). I've gashed the back of both of my ankles to the point of bloody socks w/o knowing it a couple of times just spinning the pedals into position after stopping.

    Mine have taken a few decently heavy rock strikes so far and appear to be none the worse for wear aside from a couple of scuffs in the finish,

    They aren't the lightest option out there (~520g IIRC w/ all of the pins installed) but I really haven't noticed the weight difference of yet.

  28. #428
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    hi guys total newbie here. just bought my camber comp last month so far im loving it. for now its all stock still saving up for a better/lighter pedals, seatpost, handlebars and wheelset.


    Pic from my LBS

    Pic from my garage

  29. #429
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    Need to poll the audience on this one....just ordered my new camber pro this weekend. Should be here in about 2 weeks. Want to swap the fork right off the bat for something with compression and a thru axle. What would u pick? Reba XX with pop loc or a fox f120 RLC?
    Last edited by TJM0031; 05-30-2011 at 06:55 PM.

  30. #430
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    I'm not doing anything crazy, but I could not tell a difference in the front end from my buddies 2011 stumpy fsr comp with tapered steerer and 15mm thru to my dt rws qr on my pro Since I went to the crests w/ the titanium qr's I could tell a difference buy its only when Im at my limit.

    I think people get a little to caught up in the hype(including myself) and end up spending alot of money for something they don't need. I will say the compression feature is nice, but for me its almost set it and forget it...

    I think spesh does a good job with the OS end caps and rws where to a point the thru axle is only necessary for a really agressive rider 25+ mph downhill runs, 5+ ft drops, etc

  31. #431
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    Hi everyone,

    Bought my Camber Elite 29er a few weeks ago and love the bike so far. Last bike was a GT Performer BMX 15 years ago, so I just wanted something to get back in the sport. Already wish I bought the Comp or even the Stumperjumper FSR 29er now that I know I am sticking with it. Anyways here is a pic of the whip, I have since removed my water bottle holder since I use a camelpack and it just gets filthy there.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Specialized Camber Thread-imag0960.jpg  


  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by ds33gt View Post
    I'm not doing anything crazy, but I could not tell a difference in the front end from my buddies 2011 stumpy fsr comp with tapered steerer and 15mm thru to my dt rws qr on my pro Since I went to the crests w/ the titanium qr's I could tell a difference buy its only when Im at my limit.

    I think people get a little to caught up in the hype(including myself) and end up spending alot of money for something they don't need. I will say the compression feature is nice, but for me its almost set it and forget it...

    I think spesh does a good job with the OS end caps and rws where to a point the thru axle is only necessary for a really agressive rider 25+ mph downhill runs, 5+ ft drops, etc
    Good points you make. I bought the bike to truly be an all-rounder so it will be ridden alot in an XC manner but also will need to be ready for some NC mountains trails and rock gardens. I already have a stumpy hardtail and I love how fast and efficient it is. I also love the Stumpy FSR but don't like bikes with proprietary shocks etc. So settled on the best of both worlds which is the Camber... i.e. more travel/slacked out geo but still efficient and no proprietary parts. I'm looking to build it into a complete trail warrior able to tackle anything shy of large drops and true downhill runs. Pretty happy with the drivetrain build-out but I am focused on a good wheelset (probably roval Traverse AL's) and a highly tunable fork with thru-axle for these reasons.

  33. #433
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    First post on MTBR thanks to all of you.

    Camber Expert
    “Love this bike”
    I have had this bike for about 2 months and ride 2 to 3 times a week. Great all around bike! Im running a size M.

    What I have done so far
    I’m running up front a Specialized 2.2 Purgatory
    E*thirteen heim2 chain retention and bashguard
    24x36 aluminum gear combo
    Carbon Fiber bar ends




  34. #434
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  35. #435
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    Hi all i should get my camber today but as its gonna be boxed up and im collecting from my lbs that way is there a owners manual or something with the torque values in for the pivet points / pinch-bolts just so i can check it over as im building it up?
    Cheers Wils

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by wils07 View Post
    Hi all i should get my camber today but as its gonna be boxed up and im collecting from my lbs that way is there a owners manual or something with the torque values in for the pivet points / pinch-bolts just so i can check it over as im building it up?
    Cheers Wils
    In my manual the Torque specs are listed for everything in Appendix D starting on page 50. The manual came with my Camber Elite, you also should get a manual on the front and one for the rear shock.

  37. #437
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    Ok cheers for that im just stripping the frame down now rdy to build it back up with my own bits, one thing i noticed is that the brake line runs under the swinging arm and it does stretch the line slightly when the shock is under load. Does this mean i need a bit of slack left under it to allow it to do this and if so does it not catch any harm with ground objects????
    Cheers Wils

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by wils07 View Post
    one thing i noticed is that the brake line runs under the swinging arm ... and it does stretch the line slightly when the shock is under load. Does this mean i need a bit of slack left under it to allow it to do this and if so does it not catch any harm with ground objects????
    The swingarm doesn't flex that much. You don't want to tie down the housing super-tight anyway and there should be enough play in the housing mounts to deal with the movement. You obviously don't want it loose enough to catch ground objects. Snug but not firm... just like it is/was installed originally.

    Which model are you getting?. The Elite and above have pretty decent stock brakes and derailleurs. The Comp arguably could use an upgrade from the Tektros I guess.

    Why not have the LBS swap some of the more high-maintenance components (like hydraulic brakes) when they build it up?

  39. #439
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    Anyone successfully installed a double compatible BB mounted chain tensioner/guide on their Camber yet?

    Was talking to one of the wrenches at the LBS today and he didn't seem to think there would be an issue shimming out the FD to match the additional width of the BB mount boomerang, but he wasn't sure.

    In 85-90% of my riding I'm probably fine w/ a 1x10 (especially if I swapped out the 38T I've currently got for a 36T, although I would like to keep the extra top end) but I've been finding lately that there are a few places I ride that I like to have the bailout option of the granny ring, especially towards the end of longer rides.

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by GotoDengo View Post
    The swingarm doesn't flex that much. You don't want to tie down the housing super-tight anyway and there should be enough play in the housing mounts to deal with the movement. You obviously don't want it loose enough to catch ground objects. Snug but not firm... just like it is/was installed originally.

    Which model are you getting?. The Elite and above have pretty decent stock brakes and derailleurs. The Comp arguably could use an upgrade from the Tektros I guess.

    Why not have the LBS swap some of the more high-maintenance components (like hydraulic brakes) when they build it up?
    Its the comp i only used the frame and shock everything else i have changed and i have about 10mm of slack between the frame and bottom bracket and like you said ut does not flex that much so i guess a test ride is in order!!!!!!

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sid Nitzerglobin View Post
    Anyone successfully installed a double compatible BB mounted chain tensioner/guide on their Camber yet?

    Was talking to one of the wrenches at the LBS today and he didn't seem to think there would be an issue shimming out the FD to match the additional width of the BB mount boomerang, but he wasn't sure.

    In 85-90% of my riding I'm probably fine w/ a 1x10 (especially if I swapped out the 38T I've currently got for a 36T, although I would like to keep the extra top end) but I've been finding lately that there are a few places I ride that I like to have the bailout option of the granny ring, especially towards the end of longer rides.
    I use the mrp g2 bb mount version and it works great with no fouling on the frame or swint arm.

  42. #442
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    Just found this thought it would help out setting up rear shock.
    http://issuu.com/jrun1974/docs/2011_...psi_only_11x17

  43. #443
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRY2KPUP View Post
    Man. The Camber seems so legit. I enjoyed my FSRxc, but it always seemed like it was the cheap bastard child of specialized's FS line up. The Camber on the other hand, looks to have fixed that.
    Anyone else ever think the same thing?
    My sentiments exactly. This is a very smart marketing move. The only thing that I can't figure out is why it took them 20 years to do it. Any 1st year marketing student will tell you that if you want to sell a different Volkswagen you have to change the name because people will picture the VW beetle when you tell them you bought a Volkswagen. Think about it like this: Toyota - Lexus. Honda - Acura. The entire FSR"XC" designation did nothing but confuse everyone including me at least at first until I researched it further. Camber is a cool name. Excellent choice. Well done, better late than never.

  44. #444
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    diggin the camber, anyone know if you can put a 140 fork on it...dunno if 120 would be enough up there...

  45. #445
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    You can stick any 1 1/8 fork you want on there. But A) It may void the warranty and B) it will change the geometry (HA and SA).

    I just may be an old fart, but 120mm of squish on a trail bike seems pretty sufficient. Just 5-6 years ago most all trail bikes had 80-100mm of squish and many still do.
    --If you must choose between two evils, pick the one you've never tried before.

  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpjumper61 View Post
    My sentiments exactly. This is a very smart marketing move. The only thing that I can't figure out is why it took them 20 years to do it. Any 1st year marketing student will tell you that if you want to sell a different Volkswagen you have to change the name because people will picture the VW beetle when you tell them you bought a Volkswagen. Think about it like this: Toyota - Lexus. Honda - Acura. The entire FSR"XC" designation did nothing but confuse everyone including me at least at first until I researched it further. Camber is a cool name. Excellent choice. Well done, better late than never.
    the camber is really attractive, too. Its got similar lines to the 07-09 Enduro, which I love (and own). The FSRxc was obviously made to look rudimentary, which contributed to its status as the lesser child. The new bighit is similar to the Camber in that it doesn't at all seem to me like a lesser bike. Its just another great bike in a group of great offerings, that just happens to be priced more aggressively.

  47. #447
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    Brakes tighening up over time

    My rear brake on my Camber Expert seems to be "tightening". It used to be a nice fluid move to stop the rear tire. Now, any little tug on the lever locks up the wheel back there. Any ideas? I took it to my LBS who adjusted the reach of the lever closer to the bar, but it still has the same sticky feel. Do they simply need to be bled? I only have about 100 miles on this bike. Thanks for any info!

  48. #448
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scooper View Post
    My rear brake on my Camber Expert seems to be "tightening". It used to be a nice fluid move to stop the rear tire. Now, any little tug on the lever locks up the wheel back there. Any ideas? I took it to my LBS who adjusted the reach of the lever closer to the bar, but it still has the same sticky feel. Do they simply need to be bled? I only have about 100 miles on this bike. Thanks for any info!
    If memory serves me right you are running Avid Elixir 5's on there. Do the following (has worked with all Avid hydros for me):

    Remove rear wheel and set aside.
    take a larger size "flat" head screwdriver and insert in the caliper between the pads from underneath (the way your rotor goes in)
    Gently push each pad back in by rocking the screw driver "gently"
    What you are doing is reseating the pads back into the caliper as Avid uses an auto adjust feature for the pads as they wear. Sometimes this gets thrown off with use.
    Reinsert the wheel and squeeze the lever a few times to realign your pads. You may have to play with the caliper adjustment and QR tension in the rear but this has always worked everytime I had that problem.

    Also, try riding primarily with the front brake and using the rear only for scrubbing speed and when making a sharper turn. Most of the stopping power lies within your front brake.

  49. #449
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    If you could get oil into the bearings, it would just wash out the grease. My Intense has grease ports

  50. #450
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    How do you guys clean the pivot points??
    Well i mean do they need lube after being cleaned or do they need to be washed and left to dry as any other bike would . I know blasting a load of wd40 at them would be no good but would a drop of light oil be ok.

  51. #451
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    They're sealed bearings, so you don't need to lube them. It won't do much except attract grit. If they squeak, they probably need to be replaced. If they don't squeak, I would just leave them alone.

    On the (infrequent) occasions I clean my frame, I usually take a narrow bristle to get the dirt and crud away from the pivots before I wash it down... less gunk to wash down between the linkages..

  52. #452
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    My pivots creaked from day one. My LBS loosened all of them, sprayed chain lube in them, then ran them back in. Cured the problem immediately and for good. Did he do a no-no?

  53. #453
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    Thanks TJM0031. I tried it and it didn't deem to do anything. I may not have given it enough umph. The front brakes clamp down and release. You can even see the space between the pads and rotor when you release the lever. But the back pads stay in contact all the time. So when you use the rear brake, it is already partially applied. Any thoughts?

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by paumd
    swapping out my stock bars for something a little more colorful from raceface. any sugggestions? gold would match the bike but it would bling out the bike too much IMO. Looking for a little bit of accent for the bike. red? blue? green?
    BTW i have the comp in black/white/gold color combo.
    Nothing beats a nice natural carbon fiber weave:


  55. #455
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    swapping out my stock bars for something a little more colorful from raceface. any sugggestions? gold would match the bike but it would bling out the bike too much IMO. Looking for a little bit of accent for the bike. red? blue? green?
    BTW i have the comp in black/white/gold color combo.

  56. #456
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    Avid......

    Quote Originally Posted by Scooper View Post
    Thanks TJM0031. I tried it and it didn't deem to do anything. I may not have given it enough umph. The front brakes clamp down and release. You can even see the space between the pads and rotor when you release the lever. But the back pads stay in contact all the time. So when you use the rear brake, it is already partially applied. Any thoughts?
    Hi Scooper. I have a Camber Expert and had the same problem with my rear brake. I had to buy an Avid bleed kit and rebled it. I don't know, but I think the Elixir has some project problem because I had to tune the brakes after every ride! If you see the "brake time" forum, you'll find a lot of guys with the same/similar problem. If I live in US, I would ask a warranty replacement to Spz.
    Now I'm using a low-end Shimano 445 and if they are not as powerful as the Elixir, their maintenance is zero.

  57. #457
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    The Elixir CRs on my Pro have had zero issues so far aside from a rotor going out of true and the caliper body on the rear getting bumped out of alignment (both seem to be normal use/abuse type issues to me though). I'd definitely keep on the LBS and Specialized until you're happy w/ them though.

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sid Nitzerglobin View Post
    The Elixir CRs on my Pro have had zero issues so far aside from a rotor going out of true and the caliper body on the rear getting bumped out of alignment (both seem to be normal use/abuse type issues to me though). I'd definitely keep on the LBS and Specialized until you're happy w/ them though.
    I'd have to agree with that, as of late it seems like I have to give a little more pull to get the same response that I used to, could be me though, or maybe I'm pushing it that much harder...

  59. #459
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    i had some issues with a grinding/pulsing in my brakes front and rear. talked to the shop who talked to spesh about it and now they are sending out avid g3 solid sweeps which are supposed to solve the issue.

  60. #460
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    Camber VS. Epic 29er fsr

    I rode an EPIC fsr 29er yesterday and it felt really really good to me. I need someone to talk me OUT of selling my Camber expert (26er) with 50 miles on it and zero mud/scratches, etc. to fund an EPIC. I'm not having buyers remorse, just really liked the feel of the Epic and hadn't ridden one yet. Am I crazy? If I'm not, how much should I expect to get for my bike? They retail at 2400.00 and mine is brand spankin' new lookin' and is the test bike color. I liked that color best so my lbs ordered me one and left the test bike stickers off. Anyway, talk me out of this!?

  61. #461
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scooper View Post
    I rode an EPIC fsr 29er yesterday and it felt really really good to me. I need someone to talk me OUT of selling my Camber expert (26er) with 50 miles on it and zero mud/scratches, etc. to fund an EPIC. I'm not having buyers remorse, just really liked the feel of the Epic and hadn't ridden one yet. Am I crazy? If I'm not, how much should I expect to get for my bike? They retail at 2400.00 and mine is brand spankin' new lookin' and is the test bike color. I liked that color best so my lbs ordered me one and left the test bike stickers off. Anyway, talk me out of this!?
    I think you need both!

    Seriously, it seems like a lot of people buy 29ers after renting/trying them. I did. I rented an Epic 29er at Fairwheel in Tucson, and it really is a sweet ride.

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scooper View Post
    I rode an EPIC fsr 29er yesterday and it felt really really good to me. I need someone to talk me OUT of selling my Camber expert (26er) with 50 miles on it and zero mud/scratches, etc. to fund an EPIC. I'm not having buyers remorse, just really liked the feel of the Epic and hadn't ridden one yet. Am I crazy? If I'm not, how much should I expect to get for my bike? They retail at 2400.00 and mine is brand spankin' new lookin' and is the test bike color. I liked that color best so my lbs ordered me one and left the test bike stickers off. Anyway, talk me out of this!?
    Funny, I'm selling my 29er camber because I tried a 26er (SC BLT) and liked it better. I don't think you're crazy. If you can afford to take the hit on selling a new bike, do it. Life's too short, ride the bike that puts the biggest smile on your face. I just wonder if you'd be better off trying out a few other options before pulling the trigger on an Epic, so you're not in the same spot again 2 months from now when you decide you prefer something with different geometry or whatever. Only you know.

  63. #463
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    Good point. I may have just had the kid in a candy store effect. The sun was shining, the wind was breezing, I was only on the bike 5 minutes. Kind of like a honey moon moment then I had to give her back. The grass is always greener! The kicker is even if I got what I spent for it, I'm still about a grand shy of the EPIC. Maybe I should ride my Camber, love it, and think about it all again in two or three years. Funny thing is I rode my hard tail for ten years and never wanted anything else until I rode the Camber. I'm 36. Maybe I'm starting my mid life crisis! Ahhhhhhhhhh!

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdutch_84 View Post
    i had some issues with a grinding/pulsing in my brakes front and rear. talked to the shop who talked to spesh about it and now they are sending out avid g3 solid sweeps which are supposed to solve the issue.
    I had the same issue. LBS/Avid/Spesh sent out solid rotors and semi-organic pads. This fixed the grinding/pulsing and 90% of the noise (squeel/gobble) problems I was experiencing. I hated the new pad/rotor combo at first as I felt I had lost a significant amount of modulation. But now after 200-300 miles, all seems well.
    --If you must choose between two evils, pick the one you've never tried before.

  65. #465
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    I honestly could not imagine going back to a 26" wheeled bike, I figured I'd ride it a little, but Ive only ridden it once since Ive got my camber. The only reason was to let my buddy try it out, he has since went out and bought a 29" hardrock, lol

  66. #466
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    Here is a bit of a tech question....
    As the frame is m4 alloy and the sealed bearings are stainless will they over time start to react/corrode or have specialized got round this?
    I only ask as my friend who works in sheet metal mentioned it to me and i dont have a clue so hope someone on here will.
    Cheers Paul

  67. #467
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    Quote Originally Posted by wils07 View Post
    Here is a bit of a tech question....
    As the frame is m4 alloy and the sealed bearings are stainless will they over time start to react/corrode or have specialized got round this?
    I only ask as my friend who works in sheet metal mentioned it to me and i dont have a clue so hope someone on here will.
    Cheers Paul
    In theory dis-similar metals will have a galvanic potential that causes preferential corrosion of one of the metals. This galvanic corrosion is facilitated by a solution to facilitate ionic migration (could be water). Grease acts as an insulating barrier.

    So wet bearings corrode, dry, greased bearings do not.

    Despite the theory, steel and aluminum are mixed in bearings and other parts of bicycles all the time. Nothing unique to the Camber, M4, etc.

  68. #468
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    "I had the same issue. LBS/Avid/Spesh sent out solid rotors and semi-organic pads. This fixed the grinding/pulsing and 90% of the noise (squeel/gobble) problems I was experiencing. I hated the new pad/rotor combo at first as I felt I had lost a significant amount of modulation. But now after 200-300 miles, all seems well."

    when we called avid and spesh in Canada they pretty much called us crazy and said they hadnt heard of this yet and they are only sending the rotors. do you think i should just pick up some new pads or will my originals be fine?

  69. #469
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    In theory dis-similar metals will have a galvanic potential that causes preferential corrosion of one of the metals. This galvanic corrosion is facilitated by a solution to facilitate ionic migration (could be water). Grease acts as an insulating barrier.

    So wet bearings corrode, dry, greased bearings do not.

    Despite the theory, steel and aluminum are mixed in bearings and other parts of bicycles all the time. Nothing unique to the Camber, M4, etc.
    Thanks for your reply i was just curious as this is my 1st fs bike n as im pretty hands on with my bikes and as most of the trails i use are sandy/gritty i always have to wash my bike well enought to remove most of the muck. So would a strip down of the rear end say every 6 months or so just to clean and regrease be of any benefit to the bike and not just for my piece of mind or should it be left alone .
    Cheers Paul

  70. #470
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    Quote Originally Posted by wils07 View Post
    Thanks for your reply i was just curious as this is my 1st fs bike n as im pretty hands on with my bikes and as most of the trails i use are sandy/gritty i always have to wash my bike well enought to remove most of the muck. So would a strip down of the rear end say every 6 months or so just to clean and regrease be of any benefit to the bike and not just for my piece of mind or should it be left alone .
    Cheers Paul
    That's hard to say. My bike stays dry 99% of the time, and I rarely even wash it. If you want to go through the trouble of repacking the bearings after 6 months, that would give you a good idea of whether or not they are getting contaminated. If they look good as new, then you could feel comfortable to extend your maintenance to once per year, and so on. Use your observations of wear and contamination to adjust your mnt frequency, in other words.

  71. #471
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    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    That's hard to say. My bike stays dry 99% of the time, and I rarely even wash it. If you want to go through the trouble of repacking the bearings after 6 months, that would give you a good idea of whether or not they are getting contaminated. If they look good as new, then you could feel comfortable to extend your maintenance to once per year, and so on. Use your observations of wear and contamination to adjust your mnt frequency, in other words.
    Yep sounds good atleast i can see how much or little the pivot points get crap in them with wet muddy riding conditions " as thats about as good as it gets in lancashire."
    I always clean my bb once a month and its amazing how much muck gets in, i will most likley post up some pics just to show the joys of owning a bike in britain lol.
    Cheers Paul

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigdutch_84 View Post
    "I had the same issue. LBS/Avid/Spesh sent out solid rotors and semi-organic pads. This fixed the grinding/pulsing and 90% of the noise (squeel/gobble) problems I was experiencing. I hated the new pad/rotor combo at first as I felt I had lost a significant amount of modulation. But now after 200-300 miles, all seems well."

    when we called avid and spesh in Canada they pretty much called us crazy and said they hadnt heard of this yet and they are only sending the rotors. do you think i should just pick up some new pads or will my originals be fine?
    The Avid brake problem is well known by Spesh and Avid. There is a 'Mega Thread' in the Brake Forum The Juicy brake turkey warble/vibration MEGA THREAD and Avid is releasing a new rotor this year to address the problem. Since they have been sending out solid rotors to address the issue, most times they include the organic pads to make up for the increased surface area of the solid rotors. I believe the organic pads are supposed to have less stopping power than the spec metallic pads and that is supposed to compensate.

    When you install a new rotor, you are supposed to install new pads as well (same as with a brake job on a car). If they don't give you new pads, I would ask the LBS for them; they should be included as part of the warranty repair.
    --If you must choose between two evils, pick the one you've never tried before.

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scooper View Post
    I rode an EPIC fsr 29er yesterday and it felt really really good to me. I need someone to talk me OUT of selling my Camber expert (26er) with 50 miles on it and zero mud/scratches, etc. to fund an EPIC. I'm not having buyers remorse, just really liked the feel of the Epic and hadn't ridden one yet. Am I crazy? If I'm not, how much should I expect to get for my bike? They retail at 2400.00 and mine is brand spankin' new lookin' and is the test bike color. I liked that color best so my lbs ordered me one and left the test bike stickers off. Anyway, talk me out of this!?
    I doubt you get much more than $1,500 for your Camber. That would be enough to stop me. Bikes are like cars in that they go way down as soon as they are sold. Plus, the buyer gets no waranty. I say ride it for a year, sell it for that same $1,500, and buy a higher end bike that you really like then.

  74. #474
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    Just Got My 2011 Specialized Camber Comp

    Can't wait to hit up the trails, here she is with the photo shoot lol...

















  75. #475
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    What would be a fair/good price to expect for a 2011 Camber Expert with 50 miles on it? The bike is perfect but I rode an epic 29er fsr and got the bug. Any thought on what I could/should get for my bike assuming perfect no-scratches condition?

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scooper View Post
    What would be a fair/good price to expect for a 2011 Camber Expert with 50 miles on it? The bike is perfect but I rode an epic 29er fsr and got the bug. Any thought on what I could/should get for my bike assuming perfect no-scratches condition?
    I'd start out with trying to sell local in your area and start with about $300 or $400 off retail. Unfortunately they are like cars and depreciate as soon as you take it home and it's new owner will not have warranty coverage. Good luck with the sale. Make double sure u like the epic. The geo is race geared and is not as suitable for longer rides or heavier trail use in certain situations.

  77. #477
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    Thanks TJM. I find myself wanting my seat more forward and my position more forward in general. This may be because my last bike was a Stumpy hard tail comp M2 that I rode for 11 years. I liked that bike but just needed to give my back a break and get an FS. At 37, I'm not able to take the same beatings I used to and still enjoy the ride. The Camber is great but feels odd when I jump out of the saddle. The Epic seemed like my old bike but with a soft rear end. To your point though I will ride it again and make sure I like it because I do like long rides. Maybe I should just fiddle with the Camber's cockpit and see if I can dial it in.

  78. #478
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    what's the best chain - lube for mixed dry, wet, muddy, and very humid conditions?

  79. #479
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    Hey, paumd. Looks like you are new here. Welcome to the forum! You know, the best way to get information in these forums is to search the forum for the answer you are looking for. Then you can post questions in a thread that has a specific discussion about your topic. There are probably hundreds of chain lube threads you can find here.
    This thread is about the camber, and it is considered bad form, or hijacking, to post posts unrelated to the thread. No big deal, that's just basic forum etiquette. Good luck and hope you enjoy the forum.

    Steve

  80. #480
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    sorry bout that steve didnt mean to offend anyone. searched though the forums decided to buy pedro's synlube since its rainy season here. gonna test the bike later. Thanks for the welcome

  81. #481
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    Quote Originally Posted by paumd View Post
    sorry bout that steve didnt mean to offend anyone. searched though the forums decided to buy pedro's synlube since its rainy season here. gonna test the bike later. Thanks for the welcome
    hi pao! I'm also from the philippines. I use pedros ice wax as my lube. We also have a good forum here. You might want to visit it philmofo.org.

    It would be a lot easier for you to browse since its local. You might also find new friends that could be your bike buddy at least.

    You're an MD? same here. Just drop by there bro. by the way from where are you ?

    nice camber you have there. hope to see you in the trails here.

  82. #482
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    thanks divino! im a anes at st lukes. usually bike around camp aguinaldo for practice. the syn lube i bought seems to be working no more creaking sound from the chain. where'd you get your ice wax? might have to get one also for road use
    BTW i replaced my stock handlebars with a wider one from loaded color gray but looks more like brown in person.
    Last edited by paumd; 06-13-2011 at 10:42 PM.

  83. #483
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    @ paumd , you can get pedros ice wax in bikezilla bikeshop at ortigas area or ross bike shop in cartimar.

    if your near greenhills, lifecycle has their own brand squirt dry lube.

    you can hit the trails of maarat in , san mateo. You will definitely enjoy there specially with your camber.

  84. #484
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    Hello everyone. Picked up my first FS Camber Expert test bike the other day after about 10 years away from the MTB scene. Long story short, love this bike, but is the stock Fox shock in the rear suppose to sound like a can of marbles when compressed while riding? Doesnt sound like dampening, but rather sounds like metal hitting metal within the rear shock tube. Just bought the bike a few days ago, so if this doesnt sound good, back to the LBS I go

  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newmason View Post
    Hello everyone. Picked up my first FS Camber Expert test bike the other day after about 10 years away from the MTB scene. Long story short, love this bike, but is the stock Fox shock in the rear suppose to sound like a can of marbles when compressed while riding? Doesnt sound like dampening, but rather sounds like metal hitting metal within the rear shock tube. Just bought the bike a few days ago, so if this doesnt sound good, back to the LBS I go
    No, its not supposed to sound like a can of marbles.

  86. #486
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    well I sat on the bike this morning and the shock didnt make the noise again..... will have to ride it again and see what's going on

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    Click click click...

    Bleh, the brakes on my camber pro are starting to have the same issue that everyone else is having. Solid sweep rotors, here I come.

  88. #488
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    whats wrong with the breaks?

  89. #489
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    going to take the bike back up to the LBS and have them look at the shock. Feel like a total noob for having to take the bike back up there... again! But after today's ride, the shock still sounds like something is broken in the shock

  90. #490
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    Camber Pro

    Here are some pictures of my Camber Pro. I have made a few upgrades: 2011 Crankbrothers Cobalt 2 wheelset, Thompsone stem and seatpost, Monkey Lite carbon bars, Terry fly saddle. This bike is sweet, money well spent.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Specialized Camber Thread-009.jpg  

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-010.jpg  

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-011.jpg  

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-013.jpg  

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-014.jpg  


  91. #491
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    Thats a nice Camber!

  92. #492
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    Yea look very nice i did the same almost i just go the comp and kept the frame and upgraded everything and put all the other bits on ebay . One thing i did notice was the stem on the L size frame was to big and it seems alot better with a raceface evolve xc stem and atlas bars.
    I also left the bars at full length and it handles like a dream although tight between trees sometimes but that makes it more fun lol.

  93. #493
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    Finally had my Camber Pro out for its initial shakedown ride yesterday. What a difference over my hardtail. Felt just as light and efficient but yet so much more comfortable and agressive. This is a bike I can ride all day and still feel great. I swapped to Hope Pro 2's on Stans Archs and used an XT cassette and ditched the SLX boat anchor. I also have a new X0 front derailleur to install but I have not had time to pull the x7 off. I'll try and get some pics up later.

  94. #494
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    Have any of you removed your seat post and turned your bike upside down?
    I did today and was suprised how much water run out!!!!!
    Give it a go as im sure if water is left in it will just sit in the BB and that cant be good, i have washed my bike about 8 times and never with a jet wash only with a lp hose .

  95. #495
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    Photos

    My new "Weapon of Choice"
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Specialized Camber Thread-img_0361.jpg  

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-img_0362.jpg  

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-img_0363.jpg  

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-img_0364.jpg  

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-img_0365.jpg  


  96. #496
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJM0031 View Post
    My new "Weapon of Choice"
    Sweet bike stand. The Camber is nice too.
    --If you must choose between two evils, pick the one you've never tried before.

  97. #497
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    Got a Camber Elite 29er last week

    Found a good deal on one while on vacation. The LBS had mixed up the prices between the Elite and Elite 29er, so they had the 29er tagged at $2050, then knocked $100 off while on sale that week, plus my son gave me a $50 gift card for Father's Day, so I effectively got it for $1900.
    It's my first 29er and after two rides I'm liking it. It didn't take long to adjust to the handling, but I can really feel the weight when starting a climb. The bike is 32lbs. ready to ride and I imagine the cheap wheels and tires contribute to that feeling. The funny thing is, I've noticed that it seems like I'm going faster and with less fatigue at the top of the climbs than I did with a 26. I don't know if it's real or just seems that way.
    I've already swapped out the saddle for one I prefer and converted the cranks to 2x9 with an alloy 32t ring. I'll be putting grip shifters on later today (mainly because that's what I've been using for the past 15 or so years and I like 'em) and plan to gradually upgrade components that would yield appreciable weight savings.
    I'm anxious to try some lighter tires and I was wondering if it'd be worth trying a tubeless conversion. I've tried searching various threads but haven't found anyone who's tried it with these wheels. Anyone have any experience with that?
    We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing.

  98. #498
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    Here is a video of my Camber on some of my local trails.

    <iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/91TBpMWnSFw" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

  99. #499
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    Holy crap, have I got brakes now!

    After 3 rides on my Elite 29er I was lukewarm about the Elixer 3 brakes. The front was o.k., but the rear was lacking, even with the 185mm rotor. It was starting to make some funky noises, plus I found that the reach adjusters were preventing me from getting the levers where I wanted them once I put grip shifters on because the adjusters were hitting them.
    It dawned on me that I had a set of Formula Oro K 24's from a previous bike sitting in a box so I figured, what the heck, I'll see how much hassle it'd be to mount them. I pulled the Elixers off the adapters and stuck the Formulas on them and darned if they didn't fit just right!
    When I'd used them before it was with 160mm rotors and they stopped the bike pretty well, so I was careful testing them with the 203mm and 185mm rotors. It's a good things 'cuz the first time I pulled the levers I just about launched myself and that was without doing anything to the existing pads as far as cleaning them or bedding them to those rotors. Once I do that they should be pretty awesome brakes. If they've got more power than I need I may even end up using the 160mm Formula rotors and mounting adapters. Any weight I can shave off the bike will be an added bonus. Sometimes I really feel that 32 lbs...
    We don't stop playing because we grow old; we grow old because we stop playing.

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by ric426 View Post
    It dawned on me that I had a set of Formula Oro K 24's from a previous bike sitting in a box
    Jeez, I wish that would just dawn on me!!

    Great avatar by the way. I used to have a completely addicted Golden Retriever Tennis ball fanatic.

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