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  1. #201
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    Here's the photo before her virgin ride.






  2. #202
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    So how'd it go Samuel?

  3. #203
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    Hey bro,

    I took her to the trail yesterday and she responded, both climbing and descending, best bike I ever ride so far (sorry bro, someone might disagree cause I am newbie still).

    Camber is very good climbing bike for me, I dare not go full swing during downhill, coz new to the bike and the trail.. will try again tomorrow ^^

    *** damn excited... ***




  4. #204
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    sorry, attached with the wrong date workout summary, but is the same trail...only faster by a lot during climbing and descending.. ^ ^ thanks to Camber!

  5. #205
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    Hi folks,
    this is a question for Expert model owners. I usually let the bike "rest" in 24t/chainring 11t/cog. In this combination, the chain is too long, with no tension, touching the chainstay (similar when using 34t cassete/triple rings and medium/small cage rear der). Removing the removable link, I had noted about 4 links plus than recomended by Shimano techdocs (2 links). Are yours Experts in the same condition?
    Thanks and a happy 2011 for everybody!

  6. #206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bikebr
    Hi folks,
    this is a question for Expert model owners. I usually let the bike "rest" in 24t/chainring 11t/cog. In this combination, the chain is too long, with no tension, touching the chainstay (similar when using 34t cassete/triple rings and medium/small cage rear der). Removing the removable link, I had noted about 4 links plus than recomended by Shimano techdocs (2 links). Are yours Experts in the same condition?
    Thanks and a happy 2011 for everybody!
    Nothing wrong with your bike. This is common on all bikes. WHen you cross chain like that (smallest ring in the front and smallest in the back there will not be much chain tension). Don't remove the links cause it will throw out everything when you go back into the larger ring and rear gears.

  7. #207
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    I do take out a few links on most new chains. I find they are too long when new. It will improve shifting if you remove a few links. Just don't take to many out.
    Go Solar...

  8. #208
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    rims on the camber elite 29er?

    the specialized website says

    "Custom for SBC, alloy disc, double wall, pin joint, eyelets, 27mm, 32h"

    my dealer said he thought they were made by Alex, but he wasn't sure...anyone know who makes these? Are these really heavy or are they light and weak? I'm 220 lbs. so just curious. I'm not a weight wennie, but just curious if they will hold up?

    has anyone converted their elite 29er to tubeless? just curious how easy/well it went?

    also, what is the main difference between the RS Recon Gold 29er and the RS Reba 29er? It looks like they are both air but I think the Reba is 'dual-air' while the Recon is solo-air.....what does this mean?

    cheers,

    Craig
    Maah Daah Hey

  9. #209
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    I have a 2011 camber elite and was wondering about going tubeless. Any suggestions? I saw that it came with the extra presta valves so I am assuming the rims are sealed?
    How much weight will this help and any more suggestions on other weight to cut (besides laying off of the BIG MACS

  10. #210
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    Rims on my pro 29 have rim strips and come with the tubeless valves. All you have to do is remove tubes, install valves, and add your preference of sealant.

  11. #211
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    Hi TJM0031 and larlev,

    I ride my camber for the fifth time today, when I shift to largest rear gear during climbing, it went dis-engaged where I have to spend 20 minutes (first time I am in this situation) to pull out the chain and try to fix it back to the position.

    I do notice that the last 2 time during downhill the chain give me some "clicking" sound, any idea/ suggestion if I should take out say one link from my chain to try out?

  12. #212
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    Quote Originally Posted by samuel1996
    Hi TJM0031 and larlev,

    I ride my camber for the fifth time today, when I shift to largest rear gear during climbing, it went dis-engaged where I have to spend 20 minutes (first time I am in this situation) to pull out the chain and try to fix it back to the position.

    I do notice that the last 2 time during downhill the chain give me some "clicking" sound, any idea/ suggestion if I should take out say one link from my chain to try out?
    Sounds like your lower limit screw needs to be adjusted on whichever derailleur the chain slipped off . It's not uncommon for this to happen with new bikes/cables as they wear in and stretch slightly. It's a very simple and quick adjustment.... probably a half-turn of a screwdriver. Plenty of videos online, though it is easier if you are able to mount the bike so that the rear wheel spins freely... so you might just pop by your LBS if it's close and have them show you.

    The limit screws will stop the chain from falling off, but you'll also need to learn how to adjust the cable tension. If you're skipping/missing when you shift, or ghost-shifting, it's probably the cable tension is trying to pull the chain off the current cog. Tension is usually adjusted by the knobs that go over the cable tubing on the shifters. This is easy to play around with while riding (just get it dialed in before hitting technical stuff ).

    The "clicking" sound on the downhill sounds like chain slap. This is just the chain smacking against the chainstay, inevitable on non-SS bikes. You should already have a chainguard (the plastic thing on your right chainstay) to protect the paint. My camber came with one at least.

    BTW....Since your bike is new, keep an eye out for cable rub... I was surprised how far the grit cut through the enamel and paint after only 3 months. I had quite a bit under the BB... I wonder if this is common since spesh routes cables under the gritty BB. My shop put some protective tape on and gave me the rest of the sheet... After bathing it, I found several other places that were already showing wear.

  13. #213
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    hi, im looking to buying a camber frame, right now i have a specialized pitch pro whit 160mm fork and is a great bike climbs very good and go downhills and jumps incredible, but i want like a second bike a little more cross county thing, my question is can i put a 140mm fork in this frame? ( i have rock shox pike from my pitch so i want to use it) and can it do like 3feet drops and jumps? and any advice on the frame is welcome im thinking of buying one.thanks.

  14. #214
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    Hi GotoDengo,

    Thank you very much for your tips!

    Well, I guess I will send my bike to LBS to learn how to adjust the limit screw and cable tension for the first time cause I don't want to screw up the setting ^^; will try to do it myself the next time.

    You must be went around the open fire road very frequent? Wash the frame with "wash and wax" mild detergent will help to protect the bike enamel/ paint? I bought a bottle of car wash/ wax detergent and thinking of to clean her up after rough ride..

  15. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by samuel1996
    Hi GotoDengo,

    Thank you very much for your tips!

    Well, I guess I will send my bike to LBS to learn how to adjust the limit screw and cable tension for the first time cause I don't want to screw up the setting ^^; will try to do it myself the next time.

    You must be went around the open fire road very frequent? Wash the frame with "wash and wax" mild detergent will help to protect the bike enamel/ paint? I bought a bottle of car wash/ wax detergent and thinking of to clean her up after rough ride..
    Hi Samuel,
    What size stem did you small come with? Was it a 60mm or a 75mm?
    Thanks,
    TJM

  16. #216
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJM0031
    Hi Samuel,
    What size stem did you small come with? Was it a 60mm or a 75mm?
    Thanks,
    TJM
    I think mine with 70mm.

  17. #217
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    Quote Originally Posted by samuel1996
    I think mine with 70mm.
    Thanks Sam. Trying to decide b/w S and M for a Camber. Shops only stock M or larger bikes but my local shop still has an FSR-XC bike in small and I noticed it shares the exact same effective and actual top tube w/ the new camber. It also has the exact same seat tube length etc. The only difference is the FSR-XC's had more standover height. Probably going to ride it today so I can finally choose a size to order.

  18. #218
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJM0031
    Thanks Sam. Trying to decide b/w S and M for a Camber. Shops only stock M or larger bikes but my local shop still has an FSR-XC bike in small and I noticed it shares the exact same effective and actual top tube w/ the new camber. It also has the exact same seat tube length etc. The only difference is the FSR-XC's had more standover height. Probably going to ride it today so I can finally choose a size to order.
    Initially I thought I stand at 171cm, for pass few years I did not go and re-measure my height, so my LBS guy ask me to confirm when I sizing the bike, and I am left with 169cm now.. Gosh! I guess I shrank down as I grow "maturer" (may be my bone density or my spine position went off... yet to find out form the chiropractor), you might want to confirm you height again? Just my 2 cents..

  19. #219
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    Quote Originally Posted by arctic slalom
    also, what is the main difference between the RS Recon Gold 29er and the RS Reba 29er? It looks like they are both air but I think the Reba is 'dual-air' while the Recon is solo-air.....what does this mean?
    Solo air means that there is only 1 schrader valve for putting air into the fork. Both the negative and positive pressure chambers will have the same air pressure. On a dual air fork, there are two schrader valves so you can adjust the pressure in each chamber independently. With a dual air for you can adjust the compression and rebound separately by putting different pressures in each chamber. With a solo air you can't do that since both chambers share the same pressure.
    '08 Specialized Rockhopper 29er (modified)

  20. #220
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    Ok so provide any help with the other folks stuck b/w sizes. I finally rode the 2010 FSR-XC in small yesterday. It sharges the exact same eff and actual top tube as the camber and the same exact seat tube length. I felt like I was riding a clown bike. I was way to close to the bars and the bike just felt teeny tiny. The med. camber I rode a few days back felt nice and relaxed and really comfy. The stems are listed wrong for sure as others have mentioned. With a small you "will get" a 60mm and Med. a 75mm. We even measured them at the shop to confirm.

    I do highly recommend experiencing both sizes if you can and keep in mind that that last year's FSR-XC's do share the same geometry except standover height w/ the Camber. So if you don't have access to multiple frame sizes in the Camber you can substitute an FSR-XC for a test ride.

  21. #221
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    Quote Originally Posted by samuel1996
    Hi GotoDengo,

    You must be went around the open fire road very frequent? Wash the frame with "wash and wax" mild detergent will help to protect the bike enamel/ paint? I bought a bottle of car wash/ wax detergent and thinking of to clean her up after rough ride..
    Fire roads? Not completely sure what you mean by that first sentence. I've ridden bikes all my life, including dirt and fire roads, but consider the first time I rode groomed singletrack as my initiation into "mountain biking". Now I think fire roads are fairly boring, when technical trails abound here.

    Mild detergent soap is fine to wash the bike with, but not really necessary to protect the enamel. And unless you're super-anal about washing the bike every ride --- including the tight spots like under the BB where you'd have to dig the crud out with a narrow brush --- cable rub can kick in just a few rides. Easier to just put decals on the spots where the cables are in frequent contact with the frame.

  22. #222
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    Quote Originally Posted by GotoDengo
    Fire roads? Not completely sure what you mean by that first sentence. I've ridden bikes all my life, including dirt and fire roads, but consider the first time I rode groomed singletrack as my initiation into "mountain biking". Now I think fire roads are fairly boring, when technical trails abound here.

    Mild detergent soap is fine to wash the bike with, but not really necessary to protect the enamel. And unless you're super-anal about washing the bike every ride --- including the tight spots like under the BB where you'd have to dig the crud out with a narrow brush --- cable rub can kick in just a few rides. Easier to just put decals on the spots where the cables are in frequent contact with the frame.
    Thanks bro, I will take your advice and put some decals between cable and the frame before it is too late..^^

  23. #223
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJM0031
    With a small you "will get" a 60mm and Med. a 75mm. We even measured them at the shop to confirm.

    Sorry bro if I gave you the wrong information, the point to point I measured the stem as below illustrated, may be I took the wrong point..



  24. #224
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    Sam,
    Thanks man. Looks like its around a 65mm or so. No small frames at all around here so thanks for the help

  25. #225
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    Camber pro 26 owners

    For those of u with the camber pro 26". Is the frame anodized or is that painted? All pics I've seen look like anodized.
    Thanks

  26. #226
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    BB creaking even after tightening!

    I have a Camber Expert and love it. The BB creaked some on the first few rides and I figured it was loose. Took it back to my LBS who said it was indeed loose and took care of it. Then I got it home and it creaks as much or worse than before I took it in! What would cause a brand new bike with a freshly tightened bottom bracket to creak like that? I even rode out of the saddle to make sure it wasn't my seat creaking. Any thoughts?

  27. #227
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scooper
    I have a Camber Expert and love it. The BB creaked some on the first few rides and I figured it was loose. Took it back to my LBS who said it was indeed loose and took care of it. Then I got it home and it creaks as much or worse than before I took it in! What would cause a brand new bike with a freshly tightened bottom bracket to creak like that? I even rode out of the saddle to make sure it wasn't my seat creaking. Any thoughts?
    Might have come loose again which could mean a faulty part. They should be able to replace it for you.

  28. #228
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    Quote Originally Posted by TJM0031
    For those of u with the camber pro 26". Is the frame anodized or is that painted? All pics I've seen look like anodized.
    Thanks
    I'm sure it will be painted with a protective clear coat. An anodised finish would probably wear off and wouldn't be able to be different colours.

  29. #229
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asta
    I'm sure it will be painted with a protective clear coat. An anodised finish would probably wear off and wouldn't be able to be different colours.
    Actually, the finish is pretty darn fragile. If there is a clear coat, it is matte and very very thin.

    While I like the color scheme of the bike, I'm a bit bummed on the durability of the finish. I had rub marks three places on my Camber Pro after my first night ride from the velcro I used to strap down the battery and cable for my bar light.

  30. #230
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    yip, the specialized website says it has a clearcoat.

    Its probably just as good as most other bikes. I'm sure yours is no worse than mine and all my friends bikes have plenty scuffs and marks too.

  31. #231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Asta
    yip, the specialized website says it has a clearcoat.

    Its probably just as good as most other bikes. I'm sure yours is no worse than mine and all my friends bikes have plenty scuffs and marks too.
    I expect some rub marks, scuffs, and even chips over time, but these showed up after one 1.5 hour ride in exactly the points of contact of the velcro straps. Just for comparison's sake, it is a good deal less durable than my '09 Rockhopper's for sure. The Rockhopper has yet to exhibit any rub marks from the same kind of mounting after many more hours of use.

    Not a huge deal to me, just wanted to contribute that my experience w/ the finish on the 26" Pro has shown it to be a good bit less durable than I would have hoped. This is pretty much my only complaint w/ the bike though.

  32. #232
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sid Nitzerglobin
    I expect some rub marks, scuffs, and even chips over time, but these showed up after one 1.5 hour ride in exactly the points of contact of the velcro straps. Just for comparison's sake, it is a good deal less durable than my '09 Rockhopper's for sure. The Rockhopper has yet to exhibit any rub marks from the same kind of mounting after many more hours of use.

    Not a huge deal to me, just wanted to contribute that my experience w/ the finish on the 26" Pro has shown it to be a good bit less durable than I would have hoped. This is pretty much my only complaint w/ the bike though.
    Hmmm thats interesting Sid. I have an 09 Stumpy HT and the paint is rock solid on that thing. The only time I've nicked it down to the metal was a fall which my toe spikes ever so slightly grazed the down tube and on the seat tube where I had a stupid day and a pedal wrench slipped out of my hand and nicked the paint. Thanks for the heads up.

  33. #233
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    A couple of pics of my elite 29er. The lighting made it look more orange than it really is.


  34. #234
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    2011 Specialized Camber Pro

    Here are a few pictures of my Camber Pro.These are the upgrades:
    Thompson seatpost
    Thompson stem
    Monkey Lite carbon bars
    Terry Fly saddle w/ ti rails
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Specialized Camber Thread-cimg0445.jpg  

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-cimg0444.jpg  


  35. #235
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    Thats one long stem. How does the handling compare?

  36. #236
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    It rides great, the stem is a 130mm/ 5 degree rise from my 2007 Stumpy. I am going to switch it out with a 120mm/15 degree rise to shorten it up a bit.

  37. #237
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    Last ride with my Camber before I go on Chinese New Year Holiday.. Gonna miss my bike!!!






  38. #238
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    i just ordered a camber pro this morning and was super stoked......until i did my taxes tonight and found out i owe $4000 between federal and state. not good, i have learned a value lesson, not to buy a bike before doing your taxes

    at least of will have a nice bike to ride to work because i wont be able to afford the gas to drive there........

  39. #239
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    New question here. Tall guys / XL frame?

    I'm 6'5 and the Camber is on my shortlist of bikes I'm looking at to make a switch from HT to full suss bike (it will be the first full suss bike for me).

    There's an LBS that has a demo bike in a Large frame, but I've got zero chance of getting a ride on an XL. So I'll probably demo the Large because that's my only option but I'm wondering if anyone of a similar height has bought a Camber and if so which size frame did you go for?

  40. #240
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    Has anyone seen the latest issue of MBA? I saw they did a review on a specialized camber!


    I definitely love my Camber, it's awesome! I've had the opportunity to take it to del cerro, santa rosa plateau, and the fullerton loop so far. The camber means buisness.


    Anyways, I got my green hydraulic lines to add some spice, also more comfy grips and handlebar!


  41. #241
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodwell
    I'm 6'5 and the Camber is on my shortlist of bikes I'm looking at to make a switch from HT to full suss bike (it will be the first full suss bike for me).

    There's an LBS that has a demo bike in a Large frame, but I've got zero chance of getting a ride on an XL. So I'll probably demo the Large because that's my only option but I'm wondering if anyone of a similar height has bought a Camber and if so which size frame did you go for?
    I'm 6ft and ride a L, so I'm guessing it will be way too small for you.

  42. #242
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    Quote Originally Posted by rodwell
    I'm 6'5 and the Camber is on my shortlist of bikes I'm looking at to make a switch from HT to full suss bike (it will be the first full suss bike for me).

    There's an LBS that has a demo bike in a Large frame, but I've got zero chance of getting a ride on an XL. So I'll probably demo the Large because that's my only option but I'm wondering if anyone of a similar height has bought a Camber and if so which size frame did you go for?
    At 6'5" a XL would prob be right. I'm 6'2" and ride a large stumpy fsr. It will depend on your inseam and what type of trails you ride.
    Coming from a HT to a Camber will be like driving a pinto vs. a caddy. You will love riding all over again. If I could only see your face when you bomb down that first hill or climb that first rocky ledge. You will be in heaven...buy it and enjoy. The camber is a great bike if a stumpy is a little to expensive.
    Go Solar...

  43. #243
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    Quote Originally Posted by samuel1996
    Hi TJM0031 and larlev,

    I ride my camber for the fifth time today, when I shift to largest rear gear during climbing, it went dis-engaged where I have to spend 20 minutes (first time I am in this situation) to pull out the chain and try to fix it back to the position.

    I do notice that the last 2 time during downhill the chain give me some "clicking" sound, any idea/ suggestion if I should take out say one link from my chain to try out?
    Sorry for the late response...I agree your limit screw is more than likely not adjusted right causing the der. to shift to far throwing chain. I always, always take a few links out...your issue has to do with adjustment more than chain length.
    Go Solar...

  44. #244
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    Quote Originally Posted by larlev
    Sorry for the late response...I agree your limit screw is more than likely not adjusted right causing the der. to shift to far throwing chain. I always, always take a few links out...your issue has to do with adjustment more than chain length.
    Thanx bro, my Camber is now perfect to roll..

  45. #245
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    I am seriously considering a Camber 29er as we speak. Can't decide between the Camber and a HiFi. I'll probably go with the Camber though. The medium weighed in at 30.5 lbs for the cheaper model. Cost is $2200.

    Todd

  46. #246
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    I think we talked in your other post...gota try them both out and make a decision, I would check and see what kind of deal you can get on the pro 29er. They have an elite at my lbs now for $1750 plus tax. Looks like they are quoting you full msrp. Shud be able to pull at least 10% off msrp

  47. #247
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    Yes, I think we did and I appreciate the input. I stopped at the Fisher dealer and rode the Rumblefish some and now that bike is at the top of the list (for now anyway). It looks like the Rumblefish I and the Camber Pro would cost close to the same and they weigh about the same. I really wish I could ride the camber pro but all they have is the elite. They are indeed charging full retail where the GF dealer is knocking a little off the price. It's a hard decision and I'm really doing a lot of reading about both bikes. I like the component spec on the Camber Pro slightly better with the exception of the Triad shock. The extra travel on the RF is nice and the rear shock is sweet. Just hard for me given that $3000 +\- doesn't grow on trees. I've got to make this a good decision given that this bike will have to last for a while.

    Todd

  48. #248
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    I liked the Rumblefish I checked out when shopping for my FS a lot.

    The deal breaker on that one for me was that they had no ability to test the bike on the trails and I didn't feel a couple of parking lot ride was enough to give me a good picture of how it would behave on singletrack.

  49. #249
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    Quote Originally Posted by TX-BoneDigger
    I like the component spec on the Camber Pro slightly better with the exception of the triad shock.

    Todd
    Remember the triad 2 on the pro has the pro pedal, so it is a step up from the triad 1 thatdoes not have pro pedal. Granted it's still not an rp23 with 3 stages of pp, I'm sure it will dothe job for me just fine.

    From what I have heard from others the triads are improved from the less than stellar performance of a couple years back.

  50. #250
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    My custom Camber

    I finally purchased the Camber frame and finished assembling it. I purchased it replace my 2001 Giant NRS 3 frame that broke back in November. Several of the parts came from the NRS but I made some upgrades and replaced some parts:

    Frame: Specialized Camber small
    Wheels: Mavic CrossRide
    Front tire: Tioga TerraFirma 2.1
    Rear tire: Panaracer Cinder 2.1
    Brakes: Formula Oro Bianco with 6 inch rotors
    Shifters: Shimano Deore
    Cranks: XT 175 mm Hollowtech II
    Front derailleur: XT
    Rear derailleur: SLX
    Handlebar: Easton EA30 27 inches
    Stem: Ritchey comp 130 mm
    Seatpost: Gravity Dropper Turbo with handlebar remote
    Saddle: Specialized Phenom
    Fork: RockShox Recon 351 with 85-130 mm travel adjust. Set up to 120 mm
    Grips: RaceFace ODI
    Pedals: Time Attack

    Polar CS200 computer/heart rate monitor
    Attached Images Attached Images    

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