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  1. #301
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    how come i cant upload my pics

  2. #302
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  3. #303
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    Quote Originally Posted by superunknown222
    how come i cant upload my pics
    They're probably too big. Upload them to a free online service, like Photobucket ( or any of the others) and then you can just imbed the link to the image. The pic will be viewable here on the forums (don't just post a link), but MTBR won't have to pay for the storage.

  4. #304
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    Creaking at shock mount!

    After running the list, I am 90% sure my creaking on my Camber Expert is where the shock meets the frame's top tube. I thought it was the BB, but when I got to listening with the bike on the ground, I found it to be right at that blot. When you put your hand over it and torque the frame a tad at the BB, it feels like someone is inside the frame thumping it with a screwdriver. Real loud and real annoying. Any thoughts on how to remedy this? Is it as simple is taking the bolt out and adding grease? Would doing that compromise the connection? ANY help is appreciated. I long for the non-creaking ride!

  5. #305
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scooper
    After running the list, I am 90% sure my creaking on my Camber Expert is where the shock meets the frame's top tube. I thought it was the BB, but when I got to listening with the bike on the ground, I found it to be right at that blot. When you put your hand over it and torque the frame a tad at the BB, it feels like someone is inside the frame thumping it with a screwdriver. Real loud and real annoying. Any thoughts on how to remedy this? Is it as simple is taking the bolt out and adding grease? Would doing that compromise the connection? ANY help is appreciated. I long for the non-creaking ride!
    I discovered the bolt on the upper part of the shock on my Camber Comp to be loose after about 3 months of riding. I tightened it up with an allen wrench and it has been no problem since then.
    - 2013 Specialized Camber Comp 29er
    - Octane One Zircus
    - Soon To Be Fatbike

  6. #306
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    I tried to tighten it but it was run in pretty good and didn't budge. Should I back it out and grease it? This works sometimes on creaky seat posts or BB's but seems weird to do it to the shock bolt. Thanks for the advise.

  7. #307
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    took my camber elite for 16 mile ride. i noticed some squeeking noise.. more like a spring inside something. any idea?

  8. #308
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    blew my triad today on my pro 29, not too pleased....still holds air fine, but there was oil everywhere and the lever to change the platform just spins freely in circles.

    So it's pretrty much stuck in open....wish specialized didn't make these custom shock specs....

    I'm gonna get this warrantied from specialized and then hopefully upgrade

    Does anyone know if they make an rp23 or even maybe a Push'd version of the monarch??

    The shock size is 7.875x1.9

  9. #309
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    I don't think you'll fine a 1.9" stroke anywhere except for new/old spesh OEM. They are using standard 7.875x2.0's on the 26" Cambers... sucks they're still making life difficult for 29ers.

    A 7.875x2.0 RP23 or Monarch should be fine. Camber leverage ratio seems fairly low so .1" wouldn't seem to make much difference. On the flip side, unfortunately this is something specialized could seize on if you try to warranty a frame issue. I'm guessing there was some reason to make the shorter stroke on the 29er... that might be because there is actually a linkage contact issue (easy to check), or maybe b/c they still have a glut or a good deal on 1.9" Triads.

    Would be an easier decision if it were used and weren't worried about warranty. At least pop the Triad back on whenever you take it in the the LBS for service .

  10. #310
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    I have no problem keeping the triad as a backup and for potential future warranty issues, but if I go with the 2.0 monarch or rp23 it needs to be better and fitment must be 100% like it is now..

  11. #311
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    Better is subjective... I've never ridden a Triad or Monarch but RP23 runs great for me (on a different bike). Honestly I find myself leaving it open more than I thought, as the softest PP setting barely seems to make a difference, and the firmest setting makes the ride noticeably harsher while not controlling bob all that much -- though my usual trails are very rooty.

    You will not get 100% fit with the 2.0. You'll be getting an additional .1", or 2.5mm, of travel out of the shock. That translates to roughly 5mm of add'l travel on the rear wheel. You need to remove one end of the shock and cycle the suspension through it's travel. Take note of where it stops (a little less to take into consideration a big bottom-out hit) and then measure the I2I. That will tell you how much margin you have for the longer stroke.

    I'm pretty sure I read that Push can put a bumper in to limit the travel if you get a factory tune from them. That would get you essentially to 100% fit. But you'd have go with the RP23 as I don't think they do Rock Shox yet - at least their site still says "coming soon".

  12. #312
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    I'll have to see if I can buy a used rp23 then send it to push for a rebuild/valving. I read somewhere on here that push will take the triad on trade, I'll have to give them a call.

  13. #313
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    Hello!

    Just wanted to thank everyone who posted grear input on this great bike. You all convinced me to check out this bike. So I went out to the shop, tested one out and now I plan on ordering a Camber Comp at the end of the month to replace my old Trek Hardtail. I'm psyched!

    Any suggestions on upgrading parts on the bike without breaking the bank? I appreciate any feedback!

  14. #314
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    If you're looking to upgrade immediately, why not upgrade to the Elite?

  15. #315
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    get the elite. i just got one.. i love it.

  16. #316
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    here is mine / new wheel set (azonic)
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Specialized Camber Thread-1.jpg  

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-2.jpg  

    Official Specialized Camber Thread-3.jpg  


  17. #317
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    +1 on buying up a trim level or 2 rather than upgrading components right away. Way more cost effective.

  18. #318
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    Quote Originally Posted by gradeAfailure
    If you're looking to upgrade immediately, why not upgrade to the Elite?
    That is an option I'm considering. I've heard nothing but great things about the Elite.

  19. #319
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob0206
    here is mine / new wheel set (azonic)

    Looks amazing! I seriously can't wait to get mine. I haven't been riding in almost a year and I'm dying to go out again and try a new park that opened up close to where I live.

    Thanks for the input. I really appreciate it. I'll post some pics soon.

  20. #320
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    too bad, i cant upload my pics.. file too large..

  21. #321
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    guys any suggestion on trip computer, i just need a simple one that gives me distance and a wireless one

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by superunknown222
    too bad, i cant upload my pics.. file too large..
    See my advice above. It's easy.

    Good luck!

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by superunknown222
    guys any suggestion on trip computer, i just need a simple one that gives me distance and a wireless one
    IMO Garmin Forerunner 305. If you simply want a basic trip computer you can get away with less, but if you are doing this for fitness especially I think it's the best value out there.

    For around $150 you get a wireless heart-rate monitor and pretty much every function of the Edge products (which you have to pay extra for HRMs). Being able to see and track your rides historically on a map is more than just novelty IMO, as you can see the areas that give you the most trouble (via your heart rate), track your speed, you'll get alarms as you change heart rate zones, it will automatically trigger laps by GPS so you don't have to reach down to press buttons, compare your speeds to previous rides, race yourself against your previous lap times etc. Plus, it's both bike mount-able, as well as wearable as a watch.... useful if you run or take spin classes, etc. For me, I just plug it into my computer when I'm done and everything is logged for me to look at later.

  24. #324
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    thanks i will check it out

  25. #325
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    update

    Quote Originally Posted by twenty6black
    28lbs 5oz medium without pedals, now 26lbs 10oz with pedals. Wheels and tires ordered...the race bike is happening! Cant bring myself to go 1X10, the Sram Carbon crank with the carbon bash guard is too sweet.

    25lb 8oz....with full SRAM XX, still has stock wheels and tires.

    hoping for a 2lb loss when ZTR wheelset and Renegade tires are installed.....pictures soon....LC

  26. #326
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    I am very interested in the Camber but trying to decide which component group I want. I am leaning towards the Expert, but I am wondering if the propedal and upgraded components are worth the extra money over the Elite? I have not been able to test ride an expert so I cannot compare the triad to the monarch.

  27. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by bayarea rider
    I am leaning towards the Expert, but I am wondering if the propedal and upgraded components are worth the extra money over the Elite?
    I don't think so personally. I had same dilemma. 10-speed was very attractive, but I think it's inexcusable to put a fork with TK damper on a $2,400 bike. They should have a least put a Recon RL on there. You'd be better off with a Stumpy comp... if you don't want 140mm put a spacer in to bring it down to 120. I almost went that route but was already over budget so went with the Elite.

    If you want a platform, Recon TK is upgradable to RL (moco) damper pretty inexpensively. And for the diff in price b/t Elite and Expert, you could put a PUSHd Monarch on the Elite and have a much better shock than Triad.

    Fuel EX 8 is also attractive... for about same price as Expert you get RP2 and Fox F RL. Also 10-spd, though SLX on the back. Would have been a tough choice for me but the 2011 Treks weren't out at the point I needed a new bike last summer.

  28. #328
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    just bought a garmin forerunner 305 for 126.00 including shipping.. do i need to buy a special holder for my bike? thanks

  29. #329
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    I went with the pro and am upgrading the rear shock already. I'm pretty disappointed in the triad, blew the thing out already and I'd say I'm far from pushing this bikes limits. The new monarch from push is supposed to be quite the shock...I've been told it willbe night and day difference between the triad and the push'd monarch.

  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by superunknown222
    just bought a garmin forerunner 305 for 126.00 including shipping.. do i need to buy a special holder for my bike? thanks
    Yeah, do a google search on "Garmin 205/305 Quick Release Bike Mount". Sorry, I should have mentioned that so you maybe could have bundled shipping together.

  31. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by ds33gt
    I went with the pro and am upgrading the rear shock already. I'm pretty disappointed in the triad, blew the thing out already and I'd say I'm far from pushing this bikes limits. The new monarch from push is supposed to be quite the shock...I've been told it willbe night and day difference between the triad and the push'd monarch.
    That sucks.

    I've yet to have an issue w/ my Triad <knock on wood> and I've beat on it relatively hard, although I've only bottomed it a couple of times. I haven't found it to be all that bad of a shock so far personally, but I don't have a very broad frame of reference. It's seemed decent enough that I'd probably go the warranty replacement route at least once before replacing it w/ something better out of pocket.

    Looking forward to the lowdown on the push'd Monarch on this bike if you go that route. I'd be torn between the RP23 or Monarch if my Triad started chronically acting up.

  32. #332
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    thants fine, ill buy one from amazon with free shipping... thanks

  33. #333
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    Mine

    I just got an Elite 29er and love it. Got a large, I'm 6'3". Paid $1950 at LBS. Over 31# without pedals (!), but with reflectors etc., at purchase. (Actually not that local, but none of the shops close to me are carrying the Camber, only the Stumpy).

    Am in the process of making a few upgrades to start:
    - XTR shifters to replace the Alivios
    - Reverb seatpost to replace the original 400 mm post (which I weighed at 342 g when I removed it)
    - XT cassette to replace the 416 g HG30, and
    - Ignitor to replace the stock rear tire

    Wife permitting, future upgrades include wheels, front tire, and maybe crank/BB.

    I've only had it out for a couple rides, but so far I'm totally happy with it. Fun, versatile bike.

  34. #334
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    What is the average price for a Camber Comp or Elite you guys are paying at your lbs? I am looking for one and will be going to my lbs tomorrow. It is in another town so I want to be ready with some idea of what the average cost is on these without having to drive back home to look it all up. I know the MSRP and I know deal costs are different depending on the lbs. I never actually bought at a lbs before and I'm wondering if you haggle with them or what? Any input for this bike would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

  35. #335
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    FWIW, the 1950 I paid for my elite 29er was their (below MSRP) asking price. I tried to negotiate down from that but they weren't having it.

  36. #336
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    Yeah, pricing will vary pretty widely based on many factors, but I wound up ~14% off MSRP on my Pro 26er w/ XT pedals.

    If you're new to the shop and the floor price is already more than $100 below MSRP, it might be tough to get the price down from there. YMMV however.

  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldManBike
    FWIW, the 1950 I paid for my elite 29er was their (below MSRP) asking price. I tried to negotiate down from that but they weren't having it.
    Well judging from msrp you got a killer steal anyway! If they have something close to that for out the door pricing I might destroy my budget just to walk off with it.

  38. #338
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sid Nitzerglobin
    Yeah, pricing will vary pretty widely based on many factors, but I wound up ~14% off MSRP on my Pro 26er w/ XT pedals.

    If you're new to the shop and the floor price is already more than $100 below MSRP, it might be tough to get the price down from there. YMMV however.
    Well I took a look at another lbs that is literally a bike ride away from me. Even on my Ibex...and according to online pricing they are actually $100 ABOVE msrp. It may have had different configurations, but the Scott and Felt bikes they were selling seemed very much overpriced. Dunno if they would haggle as I wasn't interested. They kept wanting to sell me 29er HT bikes saying that for Trail riding I wouldn't need FS.

  39. #339
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    got my elite for 1850 out the door

  40. #340
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    After making some calls best I could find was about 80miles away for a out the door of 2289 for Elite 29er. Blah!

  41. #341
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    Cash talks, bikes are similar to cars in my opinion. Put down $1700 cash on the counter, walked out with a brand new Elite. It felt awesome!

  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prism
    After making some calls best I could find was about 80miles away for a out the door of 2289 for Elite 29er. Blah!
    Wow, that sucks. Hopefully that was at least w/ tax.

  43. #343
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    [QUOTE=Prism]What is the average price for a Camber Comp or Elite you guys are paying at your lbs? I am looking for one and will be going to my lbs tomorrow. It is in another town so I want to be ready with some idea of what the average cost is on these without having to drive back home to look it all up. I know the MSRP and I know deal costs are different depending on the lbs. I never actually bought at a lbs before and I'm wondering if you haggle with them or what? Any input for this bike would be greatly appreciated! Thanks![/
    QUOTE]
    I paid 1500 without haggling for a 26 in Comp

  44. #344
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    took my bike for a ride with my buddies i had fun.. all of my buds has the santa cruz nomad

  45. #345
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    Had my seatpost and seat off the bike this weekend so threw them on the scale. (I've got an Elite 29er, so your spec may be different.)

    - Seatpost (sbc, 400 mm): 342g
    - Seat, sbc Rival: 248g (not bad at all).

    Those are the only two I've bothered to measure myself, but I have done some poking around on the internet looking for other numbers. For the record, I'm actually not too hung up on grams, but have been looking for any cost-efficient ways of getting big weight savings.

    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings.php has weights for a lot of components, including:
    - HG30 cassette: 416g
    - FC-M521 crank: 745g (I think that's the right one).
    - Alivio shifters: 310g

    The spesh website says the front tire is 670g (Captain control aramid bead) and the rear (Captain sport wirebead) is 705g.

    I also got the fork (29er recon gold tk) claimed weight but I don't remember where: 1755g.
    Cambria lists the BB-ES25 bottom bracket at 300g, but I don't know how accurate that is for the 73x118 version.

    The number I'm most curious about is the wheelset. Someone way earlier in this thread said they'd seen "around 1900g." Wondering if anyone has anything more specific.

    So, here's my take. Pretty easy to drop weight by upgrading the cassette (XT drops 160g) and the tires (easy to drop 100+g each). (And running 26" light tubes would no doubt make a big difference too, maybe like 90g per wheel.) For a bigger investment, an XT crank/BB would drop 200g and, if the wheels are 1900g, there are lots of routes to dropping 300g or more there, esp. if you want to go tubeless). A light post would drop 100g (I went the other direction and got a Reverb.) I upgraded the shifters to XTR for performance not weight, but that saved almost 100g. Not very much weight to save with the saddle, and I think the same is true with the bars.

    Other numbers and/or thoughts about what's worth upgrading to save weight would be very much appreciated.

  46. #346
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sid Nitzerglobin
    Wow, that sucks. Hopefully that was at least w/ tax.
    Yea that was out the door with 9% tax. Unless I can find a sub $2000 deal, I will have to hold out a few more months. Frustrating. Will call bike shops again tomorrow and ask them straight up if they will take $1800 cash on either a 29er or 26er elite out the door.

  47. #347
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    I think XTR shifters are worth the money, if only for the "double-shift" feature. Dropping 2 gears when you spin out on a hill is nice. It should also save you almost 100g for each shifter.

    What about 2x9? Was reading this post recently, which states that -- aside from the initial weight savings of XTR cassette -- the weight savings of a 2x9 conversion (including conversion from 11-32 to 12-36) is allegedly an additional 265g.

    BTW, if anyone doesn't like their Rival saddles and want to sell them, PM me anytime. I'm so addicted to this saddle and spesh doesn't make them anymore. Looking to get a couple of them for other bikes and backup.

  48. #348
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    Looking to change out the wheels(stans), cassette(xx or eBay titanium), and possibly switch to xtr shifters for the double shift feature and some weight savings on my 29 pro. I've been looking for a carbon bar as well, will pick up one of them this week on eBay.

    After that your spending good money for not much weight loss...with all above done, should get me to about 26 lbs, as I'm running a command post so thsts a bit of a penalty...

    In the short term I'm waiting on a rebuild on my triad...second time with less than 100 miles on the bike. Still deciding if I'm going to go with a push'd monarch. I could also go with an rp23, but by the time I buy a used rp23 and get it pushed I will have somewhere between $300-$350 invested. The monarch is 310 or 360 depending if you want a pro pedal "dial" or the pro pedal "switch" similar to the fox shocks. Only difference is the latter has the more adjust on the fly feel to it. Obviously the monarch is brand new as well and push says they recommend the push'd monarch over the push'd rp23

    Anyone familiar with the weight of the flat bar that comes on the camber 29ers??

  49. #349
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    Switched out the stock cassette for XT today, and got some more actual weights:

    HG30 cassette: 428g
    XT cassette: 296g

    A worthwhile upgrade to me. While I was at it, I took off the plastic dork disc. 24g.

  50. #350
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    It's crazy the xx cassette is 210 grams, that stock cassette is more than double the xx cassette....

  51. #351
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    180 mm rear rotor in medium size

    Hi all

    The Specialized website shows that the small and medium sized bikes have 160 mm rear brake rotors while the larger sizes get 180 mm rotors. Knowing the several spec errors in their website, I was wondering if any of you with a medium size bike has got 180 mm rear rotors.

    I want to fit a 180 mm rear rotor in my bike, which assume will be no problem, but it is worth to double check. I have Formula Oro Bianco brakes.

    Thanks

  52. #352
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    My pro 29, medium frame, 160mm front and rear

  53. #353
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    More parts spec trivia. I was on the phone with Shimano customer service today and asked about the stock cranks on the elite, fc-m521. They are not part of any group (xt, slx, etc) so I asked how the compared.

    He said they would fall somewhere between Alivio and Deore, probably closer to Alivio.

  54. #354
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    FIXED!!! The problem ended up being in the bolts that hold the suspension parts to the frame. My LBS loosened them, sprayed chain lube in them, tightened them up. And the ride in now silent! Can't believe it but love it!

  55. #355
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    I've been looking around for wheel upgrade options. My wishlist was (1) reasonably strong, (2) enough lighter than the stock (~1900g, apparently) set to make it worthwhile, (3) wide enough to run wider tires, and (4) somewhere around 5-600 bucks. Tubeless compatibility and thru axle option not really important to me at this point.

    Haven't really come up with anything that quite fits the bill. The 2010 Easton Havens on sale now at competitive cyclist are close -- strong and wide and cheap but only save about 100g and they've had a lot of reliability problems. People seem to like spinergy xyclones, but they're not as wide IIRC and also not much lighter than stock. I like the idea of a custom wheelset, built around hope pro 2 or the like, but haven't been able to find anything with, say, the approx. weight and width of a Crest and the strength of an Arch. Of course if I had $2000+ I could have it all with the carbon havens, but that's more than I paid for my bike.

    All of which has me thinking that dropping substantial wheel weight without sacrificing strength or breaking the bank will be tough. Maybe I'll just stick with the stock wheels for now and make do with just lighter tires and tubes?

  56. #356
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    Anybody converted to 2x10? I like the idea, I rarely use the big ring, but I keep reading horror stories about this and that. The XX and XO cranks get great reviews though.

  57. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by E46civic
    Anybody converted to 2x10? I like the idea, I rarely use the big ring, but I keep reading horror stories about this and that. The XX and XO cranks get great reviews though.
    I assume you've rejected just replacing the big ring with a bash guard? Hell of a lot simpler than a real 2x10 conversion. (But then so is just buying a Pro.)


    Two more measured weights from my Elite 29er:
    - rear tire (Captain sport 2.0 wirebead): 742g
    - tube: 174g

  58. #358
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldManBike
    I've been looking around for wheel upgrade options. My wishlist was (1) reasonably strong, (2) enough lighter than the stock (~1900g, apparently) set to make it worthwhile, (3) wide enough to run wider tires, and (4) somewhere around 5-600 bucks. Tubeless compatibility and thru axle option not really important to me at this point.

    Haven't really come up with anything that quite fits the bill. The 2010 Easton Havens on sale now at competitive cyclist are close -- strong and wide and cheap but only save about 100g and they've had a lot of reliability problems. People seem to like spinergy xyclones, but they're not as wide IIRC and also not much lighter than stock. I like the idea of a custom wheelset, built around hope pro 2 or the like, but haven't been able to find anything with, say, the approx. weight and width of a Crest and the strength of an Arch. Of course if I had $2000+ I could have it all with the carbon havens, but that's more than I paid for my bike.

    All of which has me thinking that dropping substantial wheel weight without sacrificing strength or breaking the bank will be tough. Maybe I'll just stick with the stock wheels for now and make do with just lighter tires and tubes?
    I don't think you can go wrong with the stans, esp. for the price. Someplace was selling your choice of stans rims laced to hope pro 2's for about the same price as stans w/ ztr's on his website, about 570ish

    It may have been orion cycling or something....PM me if your interested and I'll find out!!

    Tough to even get the wheels, out of stock in most places...

  59. #359
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    have followed this thread with some interest ... the camber 29er was on the list for my next bike ...

    after way too much research and working out what i really wanted/needed in my next bike, have bitten the bullet and ordered a camber pro 29er ... arrives in about a week

    the pro 29er models aren't readily available here in new zealand, but a few have trickled in under the radar
    "old enough to know better. too old to care."

  60. #360
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    Great choice, you'll love the camber, only downfall to the bike is a lack of a thru axle, however the OS endcaps do help some as I can only tell on pretty gnarly terrain where this bike really wasn't made to shine in. It does amaze me how this bike feels it has at least 20mm more travel!!

  61. #361
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    can i put fox fork on my camber elite? tnx

  62. #362
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    none of my previous bikes had through axles, so i am used it ... come to think of it, my 3 previous bikes were/are rigids [gt peace 9r, salsa el mariachi, singular swift] so this will be quite novel ...

    tried the stumpjumper HT 29er which i did like, and the stumpjumper dualie 29er which wasn't really me ...
    "old enough to know better. too old to care."

  63. #363
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    Yea u can put a fox on it. Just make sure it's 1 1/8" steerer and 9mm qr.

  64. #364
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    I'm thinking of buying Camber Comp and upgrading the brakes with Avids, I have in reserve. Does that fork have standard post mount for front brake and frame IS for rear brake?

    Also, are the hubs 6-bolt to fit the rotors?

    Has anyone weighted the bike, Specialized don't seem to provide that info.

  65. #365
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    Post front and IS rear. I also have my favorite brakes sitting in a box. I wanted to leave the Tektro's on to check them out. I have about 5 rides on them so far and no noise or fading. They are pretty good. I'm getting plenty of power and getting better with every ride. I might just leave them on. They are much easier to bleed than Avid's and use mineral oil. You should check them out before switching. They are much better than the Auriga's.

  66. #366
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    thanks for the reply

  67. #367
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lepi
    Has anyone weighted the bike, Specialized don't seem to provide that info.
    What frame and wheel size?

    My large Pro 26er came in at 28 lbs. 5 oz. IIRC w/ the stock tires, tubes, and grips (which were actually lighter than the ones I threw on right away) and XT pedals w/ the reflectors and dork disc still mounted. It wound up at 27lbs. 12oz. w/ MK SS tires w/ Forte Ultra Light tubes, Ergon GA1 grips, an Incredibell and a Zee cage and the reflectors and dork disc removed the last time I had it at the shop and weighed it.

    I'm guessing a Comp 26er in the same size will be somewhere in the mid 29 to low 30lb. region. Sounds like the 29er adds somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.5-2 lbs. to the total weight.

  68. #368
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    what tube do you guys recommend,,, for a spare

  69. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by superunknown222
    what tube do you guys recommend,,, for a spare
    I go to REI and buy the house brand (Novara) tubes. Every time I've bought one I open it up and "Kenda" is stamped on the tube. Kenda obviously makes some of the most popular tires in the market today so your getting a nice quality name brand tube for a no-name brand price.
    Tubes from Performance Bike work as well too. Their house brand is called "Forte"

  70. #370
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sid Nitzerglobin
    What frame and wheel size?

    My large Pro 26er came in at 28 lbs. 5 oz. IIRC w/ the stock tires, tubes, and grips (which were actually lighter than the ones I threw on right away) and XT pedals w/ the reflectors and dork disc still mounted. It wound up at 27lbs. 12oz. w/ MK SS tires w/ Forte Ultra Light tubes, Ergon GA1 grips, an Incredibell and a Zee cage and the reflectors and dork disc removed the last time I had it at the shop and weighed it.

    I'm guessing a Comp 26er in the same size will be somewhere in the mid 29 to low 30lb. region. Sounds like the 29er adds somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.5-2 lbs. to the total weight.
    I think my Comp was 30.2 in size L. I killed the fork and am selling off the frame and parts or I would just weigh it for you.

  71. #371
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    My Camber Elite 29er does feel heavy at times, I regret not springing for the pro. It's a big bike (size L) in the low 30lb range, I can't complain too much.

  72. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sid Nitzerglobin
    What frame and wheel size?
    Being a short guy, I was thinking about 26r in size S. But Those above mentioned rough estimates give good estimates also. Thanks!

  73. #373
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    heavy Camber....just add money.

    Quote Originally Posted by houstsx
    My Camber Elite 29er does feel heavy at times, I regret not springing for the pro. It's a big bike (size L) in the low 30lb range, I can't complain too much.

    I have the PRO CAMBER, and it was 28.5lbs without pedals when new. It has since been given a 'makeover' and is at 23.5lbs with pedals.

    I had some kit from my other race bike, soooo, over to the 29er it went:

    1) XX groupo
    2) Haven 29er wheeset, Raven 2.2 tires, or Bontrager 29-0 super lite!
    3) some carbon bars/post small stuff makes a difference too.

    This is an extreme example, but the CAMBER is a great frame for trails/racing....23.5lb race bike - 29er - 4 inches of travel - is fun. yes, I am somewhat crazy.

    The big tires that come stock are heavy....but good.

    LC

  74. #374
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    Has anyone gone about messing with the fork? I was thinking the 2011 RS Sektor RL U-Turn? I'd like to have a little bit more travel in the front for those steep descents and it'd be nice to crank down for riding singletrack. Besides the uber expensive TALAS does anyone have any ideas for some on the fly adjustments? Has anyone switched it out to anything else? I have the comp so I'd like to switch out the low end recon. Or am I an idiot and not even consider something that can switch on the fly?

  75. #375
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    Is there anyone else who had to increase pressure in there fork and shock past what the Specialized Air chart says?

    I’m riding a Camber Pro 29er, all stock. For the fork I’m running it at 110 and for the shock I’m running at 180.

    I weight around 193, with anything lower than that I feel like I’m using 70% of my travel just going up the driveway. (going from flat to hill)

    I feel like if I use stock pressures that I’m going to bottom out fork and shock when I actually hit the singletrack.

  76. #376
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailblazer29er
    Is there anyone else who had to increase pressure in there fork and shock past what the Specialized Air chart says?

    Iím riding a Camber Pro 29er, all stock. For the fork Iím running it at 110 and for the shock Iím running at 180.

    I weight around 193, with anything lower than that I feel like Iím using 70% of my travel just going up the driveway. (going from flat to hill)

    I feel like if I use stock pressures that Iím going to bottom out fork and shock when I actually hit the singletrack.
    there is an excellent post that should help you here: Suspension Set-up Basics for the Beginner

    Note, get a friend to hold the bike and help you measure the sag using the o-rings on your shock and fork. Get off the bike VERY lightly so as not to compress them as you exit the bike.

  77. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailblazer29er
    Is there anyone else who had to increase pressure in there fork and shock past what the Specialized Air chart says?

    Iím riding a Camber Pro 29er, all stock. For the fork Iím running it at 110 and for the shock Iím running at 180.

    I weight around 193, with anything lower than that I feel like Iím using 70% of my travel just going up the driveway. (going from flat to hill)

    I feel like if I use stock pressures that Iím going to bottom out fork and shock when I actually hit the singletrack.
    I have the Elite 29er, so different front and rear suspension, but I've been wondering the same thing. The manual for my Ario says the starting point for rear suspension PSI is half your body weight, and under no circumstances go over 250. I weigh 170 but am having to run 190+ PSI to get the sag close, and I'm probably under-doing it. Like you, I've been wondering if something is amiss.

  78. #378
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    The chart for me fork is 90 shock is 154. So around 20 more pounds than spec. I know kwrides ws just trying to be helpful. I monitor this forum rather closely and I've already read that one. While the stock preasure gets me close to the right SAG, my concern is blowing all of my travel on something that it shouldn't. I could adjust the rebound, but that isn't going help my fear of bottoming out.

  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by trailblazer29er
    The chart for me fork is 90 shock is 154. So around 20 more pounds than spec. I know kwrides ws just trying to be helpful. I monitor this forum rather closely and I've already read that one. While the stock preasure gets me close to the right SAG, my concern is blowing all of my travel on something that it shouldn't. I could adjust the rebound, but that isn't going help my fear of bottoming out.
    I've wound up around 7.5psi under recommended on my 26er F-120 (tweaking still in progress, but I'm thinking I'll only be going down in pressure from here) and I'm still not using the last 15-20mm on the burliest stuff I've got to ride around here. I'm ~205lbs w/ a full Camelbak.

    I'm focusing more on perceived feel and performance on trails than sag however.

    The tendency to consistency blow through significantly more of the travel on the shock than the fork has me thinking that I may be keeping alot of my weight back on the bigger hits/ jumps though. The shock feels like it's at the upper threshold of pleasantly firm already at spot on the recommended pressures, so I don't think I'd want to go higher there to try to balance things out.

  80. #380
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    picked up my camber pro 29er yesterday and went out for some fireld testing and getting things set up ...

    quite impressed with the ride in general, could lighten it like others have done but don't think i'll bother, it is about the same weight as the steel rigids i have been riding anyway ...

    what does everyone have their rear shock set at? the lbs had put just over 150psi in it when i checked last night ... the handbook says 174psi, the fox website has figures that range from 170psi through to 220psi depending on where you look and what google brings up ...
    i am about 100kg/220-230lbs and a nana rider
    "old enough to know better. too old to care."

  81. #381
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    I'm running about 15% above spec in both fork and shock.

    I'm 190lbs spec is 90 for the fork and 154 for shock. I will admit that it's a little harsh, and I'm thinking about reducing a little.

  82. #382
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    hi i notice a chip paint on my month old spec camber. is it cover by my warranty?

  83. #383
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    Quote Originally Posted by superunknown222
    hi i notice a chip paint on my month old spec camber. is it cover by my warranty?
    Warranty is structural only. A "chip" is rarely structural, so probably not. Pic?

    FYI.. if you haven't already, get a set of plastic protective stickers and place them where your cables touch the frame. Cable rub, dirt getting trapped b/t cable housing and frame, can saw through paint fairly quickly. I had a nice mm gash under my BB, and a bit of rub on my fork's crown, after only 2 months or so of heavy riding after I got my bike. My LBS gave me a sheet for free when I pointed it out.

  84. #384
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    thanks, ill take it to my lbs this weekend

  85. #385
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    I am going to pick up my Camber hopefully friday. I am waiting for a new fork to come just because I had to upgrade. Hehe...... I sold the fork on my Rockhopper, then decided to buy a new bike. So the Recon went on the RH and a SID XX on the Camber. I can't wait!!!

    The LBS already swapped out all my SRAM X.9 and the Avid CR's from my RH to the Camber along with my Mavic wheels.

    I've been itching to ride. Lets see I bought a new Tarmac road bike last month and this month a new MTB. The wife is not happy! Oh well...

  86. #386
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    Anyone know what the Camber frames weigh on their own?

  87. #387
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    I just got the 180 mm rotors and adapters for my Formula Oro Bianco brakes, as well as a new suspension fork I wanted to upgrade to. Assembling all today and shall be using it during the weekend.


    Quote Originally Posted by BiciMapas
    Hi all

    The Specialized website shows that the small and medium sized bikes have 160 mm rear brake rotors while the larger sizes get 180 mm rotors. Knowing the several spec errors in their website, I was wondering if any of you with a medium size bike has got 180 mm rear rotors.

    I want to fit a 180 mm rear rotor in my bike, which assume will be no problem, but it is worth to double check. I have Formula Oro Bianco brakes.

    Thanks

  88. #388
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    RD hangers

    Anyone replaced the rear derrailleur hanger on a Camber? Wondering if its going to be a hassle/wait to get one.

    Caught a stick in my chain tonight and it sheared the RD right off. Nice night for a long walk.

  89. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldManBike
    Anyone replaced the rear derrailleur hanger on a Camber? Wondering if its going to be a hassle/wait to get one.

    Caught a stick in my chain tonight and it sheared the RD right off. Nice night for a long walk.
    its a bugger you can't turn a full.sus into a single speed either after breaking a deraileur or hanger ...

    if its any consolation, my first offroad shakedown ride today on my week old camber wasn't too bad at all ...
    "old enough to know better. too old to care."

  90. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by OldManBike
    Anyone replaced the rear derrailleur hanger on a Camber? Wondering if its going to be a hassle/wait to get one.

    Caught a stick in my chain tonight and it sheared the RD right off. Nice night for a long walk.
    My LBS threw in a couple of spares when I picked mine up. No idea how long the usual wait might be but they made it sound like they might be a bit of a pain in the ass to get a hold of later.

  91. #391
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    New wheels, I love this bike!
    " width="549">

  92. #392
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    I picked mine up on friday and I have had yet to ride it. Damn life gets in the way.

  93. #393
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    does the camber pro 29er have a thru axel?

  94. #394
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    no, mine doesn't ...
    "old enough to know better. too old to care."

  95. #395
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    my camber pro 29er ... absolutely stock ...

    takes a bit of getting used to after the last few years on '1x9 steel rigid 29ers' ...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Official Specialized Camber Thread-s_camber.jpg  

    "old enough to know better. too old to care."

  96. #396
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    Np thru axle on the camber, probably the only downfall to this bike, I can live without the tapered steerer, but the thru axle would have really been icing on the cake...

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    WEight loss on the pro this week...

    Ordered:
    -Stans crests, dt swiss spokes, laced to american classics hubs
    -Maxxis icon exo 2.2's
    -kcnc rotors, 165 grams for the pair
    -xx cassette
    -easton ec90 carbon bar, 635mm
    -titanium stem/bar bolts, titanium rotor bolts, titanium caliper mounting kit

    Have to make a trip to fastenal to pick up a few aluminum bolts for cable hangers, bar clamps, etc

    Any guesses on total weight loss?

  98. #398
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    Quote Originally Posted by ds33gt
    WEight loss on the pro this week...

    Ordered:
    -Stans crests, dt swiss spokes, laced to american classics hubs
    -Maxxis icon exo 2.2's
    -kcnc rotors, 165 grams for the pair
    -xx cassette
    -easton ec90 carbon bar, 635mm
    -titanium stem/bar bolts, titanium rotor bolts, titanium caliper mounting kit

    Have to make a trip to fastenal to pick up a few aluminum bolts for cable hangers, bar clamps, etc

    Any guesses on total weight loss?

    about 1500?
    "old enough to know better. too old to care."

  99. #399
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    Quote Originally Posted by sn1p3r
    Anyone know what the Camber frames weigh on their own?
    Just weighed my frame. It's a Camber Expert Large with Fox Triad shock (26inch wheel version), with rear mech hanger and cable guides but no headset, no seat clamp and comes in at:

    2.8kg = 6.17lbs

  100. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by ds33gt
    Np thru axle on the camber, probably the only downfall to this bike, I can live without the tapered steerer, but the thru axle would have really been icing on the cake...
    Solution:

    When you upgrade the fork, get one with a thru axle and then buy a wheelset with a thru axle hub. I agree that it is a downfall. Hopefully one day all bikes will be thru axle bikes (front and rear) as well as tapered head tubes.

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