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  1. #1
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    New Stumpy EVO .. stealth post??

    Hi,
    Has anyone had any success finding a way of fitting a steath dropper post, such as the Reverb to their carbon stumpy or similar? I want to fit a Reverb but the hose is said to be too fat!!

  2. #2
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    Bump this!
    Also very interested in anyone hooking up a Reverb Stealth.
    I looks lke it will go, but i haven't been able to find any cross-section picks of the frame to work out if it will route through.
    I've often thought if it doesnt work going through to top tube due to the post coming down to far, maybe run it down the down tube (should still be able to use the normal hole for the hose to enter the frame) but again without a cross-section view of the frame i have no idea if there is an opening at the bottom bracket junction or at the FSR link pivot on the seat tube.
    Any info from anyone would be awesome!
    I'm Ron Burgundy?

  3. #3
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    PKstumpyevo, I have Reverb fitted on my 2013 Stumpy....I got the bike to enlarge the hole of the frame so that the cable would fit..no problems to date and it works a dream...

    Not sure if the Stealth would fit....suggest you ask your LBS.

  4. #4
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    gef73 has done it... see below... but his frame looks small... question is will it work on a large as the entry point is past the downtube?

    "Here is mine with a Reverb Stealth. In the top tube, down the down tube, up the seat tube. just file the hole in the frame. I've done it to multiple frames with no issues."

    http://fcdn.mtbr.com/attachments/cal...uide-photo.jpg

    I'm more keeen than ever to see if this is possible after catching my foot on the cable on a tricky descent tonight

  5. #5
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    'Skippy' - Mountainbikeb's Bike Check - Vital MTB

    Another example... appears to go in at bottom of downtube?

  6. #6
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    I have a large frame and no luck for me - I am not willing to drill the frame. The internal cable routing hole is not just a hole but a long carbon tube that extends about an inch and a half into the frame. (and way too small to fit a brake hose) You can see it looking down the top tube from the open headset area. If you figure out to do it please let us know! I have a reverb stealth sitting in the box on my work bench waiting.

  7. #7
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    Also, I sent the gef73 guy a few messages asking how he did it and no response.

  8. #8
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    bit of sandpaper around a narrow drill bit and gently grind it out (i.e not drill directly!)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by chpfly View Post
    I have a large frame and no luck for me - I am not willing to drill the frame. The internal cable routing hole is not just a hole but a long carbon tube that extends about an inch and a half into the frame. (and way too small to fit a brake hose) You can see it looking down the top tube from the open headset area. If you figure out to do it please let us know! I have a reverb stealth sitting in the box on my work bench waiting.
    I've been looking inside the frame tonight with lights and mirrors and see the tube you mention. The size of the exit hole for the dropper cable is huge! Others, as in the link above, appear to be entering via the lowest cable-guides bolt hole after filing it out to 5 mm.

  10. #10
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    Vikingboy - NICE! Made me think....sandpaper around a long piece of shifter cable would be perfect to open it up a bit.

    I will try it out and report back.

    only problem now is the cable routing. Getting it down the down tube will require a 180 once it has exited the internal cable hole.

  11. #11
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    nut on end of string

    can you tell Ive been researching my next project bike....

    you dont need to make hole much bigger, only a fraction. Slow speed on the drill not hammer action too! Dremel might be more controllable actually.

    Good luck - get pics so we can knowledge share!

  12. #12
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    Done it and to be honest the most difficult part was bleeding the Reverb!

  13. #13
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    So how did you get the cable routed?

    WE need details!

    I have the hole big enough now just need to route the cable...

    Help us out here PKstumpyevo

  14. #14
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    Here it is done...
    New Stumpy EVO .. stealth post??-imag0062.jpgNew Stumpy EVO .. stealth post??-imag0063-1-.jpgNew Stumpy EVO .. stealth post??-imag0064.jpg

    I had to improvise and use the following homemade tools to assist in the cable routing....
    New Stumpy EVO .. stealth post??-imag0058.jpg

    I disconnected the hose at the seatpost end by simply unscrewing the hose from the connector. I then used the little red hose joiner that RS provided, after chopping off one end with some cable cutters and filing it down so that it was less sharp and less likely to snag or scratch the inside of the frame. On my first attempt I fed a small screw through the entry hole tied to thread, and dropped it back towards the head tube, then used that to try and pull the hose back on itself to do the 180. I didn't work as it snapped the thread twice and didn't seem to give enough control.

    After scratching my head for a few minutes I thought to use my dental kit! Which I'd bought for 15 on eBay some time back - DIY hygienist!! (link - PRO SET DENTAL DENTIST PICK TOOL KIT+LEATHER CASE YNR | eBay )

    I used the tool pictured above. I increased the bend in the end and used it to hook the hole in the hose connector. I used the small electronic device in the middle of the picture to create light (its a flashing LED device stolen from one of my kids bouncing balls which has a movement switch). I had to dangle this into the top-tube from a thread, holding it in my teeth, and shake the frame when the lights timed out and stopped flashing!

    Before inserting the hose into the frame I pre-bent it carefully to help coach it in the direction I wanted it to turn. I angled the frame so that I could just see the hose entering the frame looking down the tope tube from the open head tube.

    I then carefully used the dental tool to hook the hole in the red hose connector, and while pushing the cable in the entry hole, I held the hose in place on the opposite side of the top tube causing it to bend back on itself. At this point I simultaneously pulled the end out whilst pushing the same amount of hose in.... and viola it worked first time.

    I then fed all the hose that I wanted through and out the bottom of the head tube, leaving just enough for the remote end to connect to the bars.

    The rest was easy. I dropped a nut on a thread down the down tube, turned the frame upside down and it dropped down the seat-tube and out. (I had to do this twice as I dropped the end of the thread the first time and it disappeared into the down tube... Doh!!

    I then pulled a length of brake cable inner through (connected to the thread by one of those cable end grommit things which you pinch on using crimpers?). I had strung the cable through the red hose connector so this could then be used to pull the hose through the downtube and up the seat tube.

    I then wiggled the hose about in the top tube and the other tubes of the frame to ensure it was not caught or kinked. I then connected it back to the seatpost and tested it. It worked!!

    It took me about 40-50 mins to route the cable, including improvised tool making. It took me about an hour to carefully file the entry hole 1mm wider the night before.

  15. #15
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    Awesome. Thank you.

    To make the whole bigger I used some 300grit sandpaper glued to a shifter cable with spray adhesive and left overnight to dry - I would do 2 or 3 cable set ups with 4-5 inches of sandpaper - I used a shifter cable that was 2 ft long so I could get a decent grip on it.

    Thanks again PKstumpyevo - nice work.

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