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My 2013 15.5 S-WORKS stumpjumper HT building thread

53K views 120 replies 21 participants last post by  phlegm 
#1 · (Edited)
Hello!!! finally I have the frameset!!:D is a 2013 stumpjumper s-works ht 29er 15.5"
I bought it in my LBS. I had so many 26 bikes before.. first time in a 29er!!
I want a light bike, the lightest bike I had Was a fuji 22lb 10oz now I hope this bike weights 20lb
Here are some pics!! and the official weight of the frame :thumbsup::thumbsup:

Frame small 15.5": 1120gr (no bb, no headset, just the seatpost clamp)
Brain fork carbon: 1470gr
stan's Ztr race gold wheelset: 1350 (pair) (620 front...730 rear)

I have a problem with the seatpost and please guys u have to help me with this I bought a TUNE SCHWARZES STUCK CARBON 27.2 seatpost (120gr) from a bike shop in germany but I bought it too long a 400mm seatpost with a maximun insertion depth of 170mm is the wrong size for me!!! I need a 350mm so the 400mm tune seatpost have to go I will post it in ebay if any one is interested please let me know!!! :rolleyes::rolleyes:

Ok I bought two wheelsets the ztr race gold for racing and a ZTR crest wheelset for riding and training, so there is the pic of the race gold wheelset weight!!!

I will build the bike with a xtr groupset... Yeah I will post more pics of the build and a list with complete weights soon!!!
some pics!!!
 

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#64 · (Edited)
#66 ·
Ok, here are a few interesting links for you:

1) cheap and reliable weight scale, which i use myself:
http://www.amazon.de/Digitalwaage-F...HH0S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1363173472&sr=8-6

2) Bottom Bracket for the HT - it is a Sram PF30 Bottom Bracket - it must be pressed into the frame, therefore you need a special tool or just let your shop do this. On the Specialized Homepage in the Support section you can find the right manual.
SRAM Innenlager Truvativ PF30 - Pressfit BB30 88g, 37,50 €

3) Crankset Sram XX Q164 for BB30 - you must choose your favourite length and chainrings:
SRAM XX Kurbel 2 x 10 BB30 Q-Faktor 164 mm 677g, 322,50 €

4) Front derailleur Sram XX Highclamp Toppull 34.9 - you must choose the right one according to my given description
SRAM XX Umwerfer High Clamp 118g, 82,50 €

Please, for further question write me a PM. This is andrescos thread.
 
#72 ·
Hi andresco, news from my built. Although i am still not home, my shop send me an email. They installed the bottom bracket, before they put the frame on a scale - nearly the same weight like yours. 1140 g with post clamp, so 20 g more. This is due to the white paint. I´m fine with that. in exactly 2 weeks i am at the shop :D
 
#75 ·
Really nice to hear from you bro!!! we are waiting for ur building!!!

OK PLEASE help me with this issue!! I have this desease called weight weenie so I WANT TO SWAP TO XX1 but I don't know the correct q factor for my frameset!!!! I google this and shows up a message from some guy in specialized he says that they use the 166 q factor xx1 crankset are he right??

I noticed that the xx1 crankset in a s-works frame is really wide beacuse the chainring is very separated from the chainstay I am correct??

Guys if anybody knows the correct q-factor for my frame please help!!

And I'm very confussed in the correct freehub for my stans crest wheelset

thanks
 
#76 ·
Hi Andresco, thank you. Here is a quick teaser, i will finish my built today. The epic is my wifes new bike.
Regarding the q-factor - S-Works cranks use Q164 so i think Q166 will be fine. I must go to the dentist now but i will measure at my frame. You can also do if u use this file:
Sram xx1 frame fit specifications.pdf
And here can you find everything you need for your Stans Gold Race wheels: Stans Hubs Spare Parts

Bicycle frame Bicycle tire Bicycle part Window Bicycle wheel


Tire Bicycle tire Bicycle frame Wheel Bicycle wheel
 
#77 ·
Wooow really nice bike !!!! you white st looks awesome great color combination with the red/white wheelset I really want a roval wheelset!! but have to sell all my wheelsets :D

Please can u confirm the q factor I will need?? If u chack in that pdf doc of sram it doesn't appear the 166 q factor crankset
 
#78 ·
So, i took the measurements at my bike according to the xx1 frame fit specifications. The outer width of the chainstays at the important place is around 120 mm. Choosing Q156 there are about 4.5 mm gap on each side between crankarm and chainstay. Pretty close. Choosing Q166 there would be about 10 mm on each side.

Regarding the fact that the s-works crankarms for mtb have a q-factor of 164 i would prefer Q166. About 5 mm clearance are really close and in case you pedal hard and put in much power...

But generally both should be possible.
 
#79 ·
So, my built is finished at 8.82 kg for test-setup. After having found my best body position i will change to lighter tyres (-20 g), stans sealant (-230 g), stem (Extralite or Syntace, -50 g) and light seatpost (MCFK, -165 g) and therefore drop another 500 g roughly, so that i will end up at 8.3 kg reace-ready including pedals, bottle cage and chain stay protection.

But for now i must do some testrides in order to finde my body position.









 
#81 ·
MCFK has grown a lot as a business during the last 1-2 years because their products ard reliable and light and thrustworthy.

I used clamp, bar and post at my 26er S-Works Epic last year - everything has been just fine. So i decided to go again for all those parts. I chose the 6 degree OS flatbar because they have no 8 deg version and because i don't want that strange looking 9 deg bar. As simple as that.

I mean - what can i like of dislike? it's a flatbar of chosen finish and length ;)
 
#84 ·
MCFK has grown a lot as a business during the last 1-2 years because their products ard reliable and light and thrustworthy.

I used clamp, bar and post at my 26er S-Works Epic last year - everything has been just fine. So i decided to go again for all those parts. I chose the 6 degree OS flatbar because they have no 8 deg version and because i don't want that strange looking 9 deg bar. As simple as that.

I mean - what can i like of dislike? it's a flatbar of chosen finish and length ;)
Woow ur bike looks awesome man!! congrats!!! I want a 640 flatbar too maybe I will order one!! I want the control sl wheelset too!!

Now I'm thinking in the gears ratio!! I love hills and use a lot 26 chainring and 36 cog position!! I want to know which config I will need to have the same ratio!!

I'm thinking in the 30t the 28t will be too small for flats
 
#83 ·
S-worker. Excelent build.

Mine frame is still in cyberspace!!
One week of delay wasn't a big problem, but over month is a really big issue now.
I don't understand this. The biggest sales representative in Poland cannot get stuff from Specialized Europe. Everyday they tell me it will be tomorrow and nothing.
It really makes me nervous now.
If it will go this way I will get this frame in July...

Once again, nice build. I'm happy that my bike will looks very similar ;)
 
#85 ·
This is why i personally would not use 1x10 drivetrains. If you live in a very hilly area where you nearly dont have any flat areas - xx1 is perfect, just up and down. If you live in a kind of "mixture area" with hills and lots of flat areas i can not see the advantage of xx1. Then you can optimize your xx1 setup for hills or for flats but never for both.
 
#86 ·
If you're pedalling a 36x10-42t at 80rpm, you get 5.9mph at the low end and 24.8mph at the high end.

At 60rpm, it's 4.4mph and 18.6mph, respectively.

If you can't pedal between 60 and 80 rpm comfortably, that's a personal problem, not a gearing problem.
 
#90 ·
I don't know what to do I'm little afraid of the 1x11 system, I think it will be harder for me in long rides when u are tired and maybe I will need an extra gear I love the it because it do not have front derailleur but in long hills will be leg killer.. very confused
 
#92 ·
Just ride your 2x10 equipment until you are sure that xx1 gives you the necessary gears. Just wait a little longer and improve your power and endurance - what's the deal? I switched over from 3x9 to 2x9 after i calculated that i really don't need that 22 chainring anymore.

Its no fun at all if you are missing one or two gears during a climb. Take your time - why rushing it?
 
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