making my enduro more XC friendly
After a 10 year hiatus I got back into mtb thinking I'd jump more and ride the lifts etc, but after a full season back I mostly ride up a big hill and then right back down. I come from a BMX background and find the descending the easier part of the ride. I have a 2010 Enduro comp and feel like it's a hell of a bike on the downhills and pedals good on the climbs. I can't afford another bike just yet so I'm looking for parts to lighten it up and make it climb faster.
I have already made a few mods:
command post blacklite w/remote
Replaced solo air spring with 2step air spring for the lyrik
replaced "R" damper with DH comp and rebound
may install volume spacer kit for RP2
Obviously I can start with some lighter tires. I've used narrow tires in the past, but enjoy the ride quality of the 2.3". They list at 650 and 700 grams.
Would SRAM X7 or X9 2speed crank save significant weight over shimano m545? I
am really happy with how the bike shifts front and rear but is there room for weight savings with crankset,chain, cassette. Will a 32/22 still shift as nice as 36/22?
I've considered wheelsets but haven't been able to find a lightweight set with 20mm axle, wide profile and tubeless bead. Much like the rest of the bike, the wheels have been treating me pretty good too.
right off the shelf my bike weighed 29.5 lbs. The mods I've done have it up to 31.
Has anyone else had success making their enduro comp into lightweight long travel XC bike that still rocks on the downs?
31lbs is not bad. Cranks is a great place to start for loosing weight. I took the stock Suntour cranks off my wife's bike and installed the SRAMS X7 3x9 crankset. Dropped over a pound with that mod alone.
You might want to look into some Roval Traverse wheels. They are tubeless compatible and will allow for either 15mm or 20mm thru-axles.
My 2010 Enduro Comp weighs in at 32lbs with the following spec:
Hope Pro 2 with Maverick En521's
Saint double crank & gears
Hope V2 brakes.
I think the e160 for saves a lot of weight but its needs properly setting up to get the best out of it.
As Championp states you can switch to a lighter (carbon) crank which will save weight,
Just dont save too much or youll loose some of the toughness on the downs.
As weight saving has a disproportionate effect ( Savings easy and cheap to start off, then get dammed expensive for a few gramms), My plan is to save around 10lbs this season without touching the bike.
This will be achieved through lots of riding, healthy eating and a bit less beer :0)
I used my 07 S-Works Enduro for XC riding including many 4500ft 30+mile days. It weighed right at 30lbs with full UST tires. IMO I would not waste much money on anything other than rotational weight. A good wheelset and tires should drop quite a bit of weight that you'll actually feel. Dropping a pound on other items makes little to no difference when riding, trust me I've wasted lots of money to save grams with no real payback on the trail!
BQuinn I hear where you're coming from. I will definitely start with some new tires this spring. I was hoping some enduro comp owners would chime in about wheelsets too. Aftermarket wheelsets have weight listed but i don't know what my current stock wheels weigh. I have sealant in the tires so i can't get true weight there without picking up some sealant. Is it worth the weight savings to use one scoop of stans instead of two?
I'm enjoying the 2.3 size so I'm torn between renegade 2.3 or small block 8 2.35. Both are lighter but the renegade is almost a pound lighter for the pair. I've ridden small block 8 on my bmx so I trust them for grip. Has anyone tried renegade 2.3 on sandy hardpack?
I also just changed chainrings to 22/32 from 22/36 so it shoud ride more like my old triple. I used to climb in the middle ring to have more momentum and use the small ring in a pinch.
Bike weight is a red herring for climbing. To get up the long hill you have to get your bike and yourself up against gravity. So 170# rider + 30# bike = 200#. Lose 2# and you drop 1% in weight. Noticeable?
(for bunny hops, manuals, etc. bike weight matters)
Where weight matters most is at the outside of the wheel. For you, the tires are where you should save the weight. The stock comp rims are already very light. But then, outer wheel weight only matters with accelerations. If you smooth pedal the additional weigh is not significant. If you have a lot of accelerations, weight does matter at the tire.
IMHO, what does matter is riding position and rolling resistance of tires.
Riding position puts you in optimum efficiency and minimizes fatigue. Get that saddle in prime leg extension postion as the dropper post allows you to ride low later. The shock volume reduction will give you more sag support on steep ups.
Rolling resistance of tires is what you have to overcome 100% of the uphill & even on flats with really bad rolling tires. Fast rolling tires allow you to maintain momentum and preserve energy. Run the fastest tires you can get away with. It's less about knobs and more about rubber rebound. See here: Tire test results from german "bike" magazine
I run a 2010 Enduro comp on mostly "trail" terrain and have similar issues in needing XC efficiency. But I found turning on the platform dampers on and fast rolling tires really help. The front is an Eskar which is 720g, the rear is a Big Betty which is 830g. When I get on the front tire I can feel how slow the Eskar is. The Big Betty is very efficient as soon as I get it up to speed. Michelin make very efficient rolling tires as well.
Re: aftermarket wheelsets. Outside of carbon rims or very light duty wheels most of the weight savings you are looking at going aftermarket is in the hubs. Which will net not much in performance gain.
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