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  1. #1
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    Making the 2010 Enduro more XC friendly

    Hi All

    I have had my Enduro for a few years now but due to all the rain and track closures in my area over the last year I am riding far more XC and fire trails with more uphills than down and am finding the Enduro a little harder than I would like

    If money wasn't an issue I would go out and buy a stumpy 26" or 29er but that is not an option unless someone wanted to swap. So question is what can be done to the Enduro to make it more of an xc trail orientated bike?

    Cheers


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    Last edited by brad72; 03-14-2012 at 02:25 AM.

  2. #2
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    Lighter tires if you do a lot of accelerations.

    Fast rolling tires for maintaining momentum:
    Tire test results from german "bike" magazine
    It's about the rubber rebound compound more than the knobs:
    Hans Dampf PaceStar - 29.7W
    Hans Dampf TrailStar - 41.8W
    Latest info:
    Tire test results from german "bike" magazine
    Tire test results from german "bike" magazine

    Rock the ProPedal all the time for XC (I do this with Gate turned on the Lyrik Compression) a bit harsh but very efficient.

    Experiment with less rear shock sag.

    Body position: saddle as high as you can & forward, bars lower

    Engine tune up

    I'm in a similar situation in that the local trails are very trail/XC... except for the local FR DH that I need the Enduro for.

    Post up what you discover as I want my Enduro more snappy as well.

    P

  3. #3
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    For me the biggest difference you can make is get a fork that will allow you to get to a 68.5-69 head angle. Something that adjusts down to the 110-120mm range For me personally getting into that aggressive forward position is the most important thing for climbing and pedalling. With an adjustable fork you have not given up anything in terms of dh either.

    Other than that just the usual weight and wheels. You didn't say which model you had, so I don't know what fork its running now.

  4. #4
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    Thanks so much for the responses guys

    Preston I am running a Enduro comp with Lyric forks upgraded with DH rebound and compression dampers and 760mm Answer Pro taper bars, plus a 125mm command post. Currently running clipless but might put on flats to improve pedalling.

    I will try some faster rolling rubber as that will should make a bike difference without a lot of cost

    I can put in a 2 step cartridge in the lyrik to drop the travel. Will cost a few hundred $$ but I can get the head angle steepened that way. Another option would be to change out the DH compression cartridge for a mico with lockout to get a firm pedal platform.

    Having the 125mm command post fitted i can get my seat is pretty hight when extended (I have a long inseam) but I could try flipping the bar stem to get a bit lower on the front. Maybe go for a slightly longer stem also?

    Some Roval traverse wheels come up locally but they had the new 142+ rear hub so a real pain to rebuild the rear wheelto fit my 135mm quick release so I let them go.

    I was going to try and design and machine up a headset adaptor that would fit the integrated Spec headtube to drop 1 off the head angle but I don't know if it will be possible. I know angleset don't make one but i'll have a look and see what I can come with.



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    Last edited by brad72; 03-14-2012 at 02:09 PM.

  5. #5
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    Hey Brad,

    Here is the bike I used to race SS XC on. Head angle is about 65 degrees.



    I was surprised to see how little the head angle negatively affected climbing. It's more about body position, something you can do independent of the HA. A more forward & down body postion will put less leverage on the rear shock = similar effect to reducing shock. & keep you in more pinner XC guy mode.

    On the Enduro I run a straight seat post and keep the saddle middle to forward & stack from headset to stem is only 10mm. You'll have to see what works for you - but those moves are free.

    P

  6. #6
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    Thanks Mr P. I know that putting wider bars on helped with climbing by getting my weight a little further forward. I might see if I have a longer stem in my box of tricks and give that a go.

    The only downside of the wider bars is the guys on the xc bikes have built trails around their 580mm bars so there are quite a few trees I snag on You never find this out though till you snag the tree


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    Last edited by brad72; 03-14-2012 at 07:46 PM.

  7. #7
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    So I have been riding the XC single track trails now exclusively. They consist of tight twisty singletrack and switchbacks.

    A couple things I have noticed:

    Firstly I am not as fit or strong as I though and I think my core is a little too weak.. Take an uphill switchback for instance. When I am fresh I can look through the corner, put some power down and get around it no problem without loosing the line.. When I get tired I always run off line and the bike feels like the wheelbase is too long.

    Secondly I think my balance and skills need to be honed a little. I believe core strength plays a big role here but I could be wrong. On tight downhill switchbacks the bike always feels too long but I cannot flick the back wheel around like I see some guys doing by locking the front. I could skid the back around but I don't like trashing the trails.

    So I think if I focus on technique, balance and get a little stronger my problems will solved. I remember when I first got the Enduro it climbed better on technical stuff than my Epic but the engine was tuned a bit better then.

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    Last edited by brad72; 03-27-2012 at 01:20 AM.

  8. #8
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    Honest post, I respect that.

    This book's techniques took this former BMXer to the podium.

    Lee Likes Bikes

    To get the bike around; all weight on the pedals, light on the hands and tip the bike in, it is designed to turn when tipped to a side, it should not require core strength. Staying heavy on your feel will probably solve your balance issue as well.

    On the XC Enduro post; I have since noticed that I am getting some squat with PP on. ( I just rebuilt the air cannister so it is very active) I wonder if a Push tune would up the PP to make it more sprinty?

    Can anyone comment on Push tune + PP? Or even Push tune + wide open and how it effects XC ability?

    P

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr.P View Post

    To get the bike around; all weight on the pedals, light on the hands and tip the bike in, it is designed to turn when tipped to a side, it should not require core strength. Staying heavy on your feel will probably solve your balance issue as well.

    P
    Thanks mate. I definitely do not tip the bike in enough and I am far to heavy on my hands as they do ache sometimes.. I also need to make pointing my hips in the direction I want to go in second nature.

    Time to get some more skills. I think I'll buy the book by Lee as there are very few people where I live to give advice.


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  10. #10
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    I would just look for a used hardtail; you can find them for around $500. You can use it on the xc trails you've been riding, and when you ride the more demanding trails: take out the enduro.

    It would be hard to move the enduro away from its mini dh traits to a more xc type of ride. As others have stated, you can get an adjustable fork and lighter components, but that already puts you well over a thousand dollars. If you need a more xc type of bike, get the hardtail, they are very fun to ride the trails they are intended for. Then keep the enduro the way it is so you don't lose the aggressiveness of the bike for the trails it was designed for.
    08 Enduro: '12 Van RC2, Push DHX 5 coil, Flow EX, Hope m4, 750mm bar, Blacklite Post.

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